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Table of contents
- 1. Warrumbungles
237 in Crag
- 1.1. Timor Rock 27 in Area
- 1.2. Mopra Rock 7 in Area
- 1.3. Mt Scabilon 1 in Area
- 1.4. Berumbuckle Split Rock 1 in Area
- 1.5. Dead Cow Cliffs 2 in Area
- 1.6. Belougery Spire 20 in Area
- 1.7. Belougery Pinnacle 1 in Area
- 1.8. The Bread-Knife 9 in Area
- 1.9. The Butter-Knife 5 in Area
- 1.10. The Fish-Knife 2 in Area
- 1.11. Balor Peak 2 in Area
- 1.12. Crater Bluff 24 in Area
Bluff Mountain 47 in Area
- 1.13.1. Car Wash Crag 0 in Area
- 1.14. Bluff Minor 4 in Area
- 1.15. Armid Dome 1 in Area
- 1.16. Churchill Rock 1 in Area
- 1.17. Danu Scree 1 in Area
- 1.18. Tonduron 13 in Area
- 1.19. Mt Naman 2 in Area
- 1.20. The Needle 18 in Area
- 1.21. Belougery Split Rock 4 in Area
- 1.22. The Fantail 2 in Area
- 1.23. Mata Rocks 1 in Area
- 1.24. Canyon Cliffs 21 in Area
- 1.25. Nature Track Cliffs 6 in Area
- 1.26. Buckleys Cliffs 1 in Area
- 1.27. Blackmans Bluff 14 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
Long/Lat: 149.157250, -31.263652
|3||Tourist Route Variant||8||70m|
|12||The Falcon Flies||15||80m|
|17||Dark Side of the Moon||15||80m|
|19||Done in Dunlops||16||100m|
|23||Walk on the Wild Side||17||100m|
|25||Gates of Hell||17||20m|
Long/Lat: 149.087220, -31.275641
|2||Gold, Gold, Gold||7||50m|
Long/Lat: 149.035146, -31.282582
Long/Lat: 149.051363, -31.313981
Long/Lat: 149.016444, -31.298164
Long/Lat: 148.999573, -31.330787
- Description:© (jgoding)
Big pinnacle that dominates the walk in. The big grade 17 orange corner "Corcus Corner" (Spelling?) dominates.
|1||Dr Dark's Chimney||6||120m|
Excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbunges. 78m long (2 pitches)
FA: Roger McDonald, Alex Hromas, 1961
|6||If the Spirit Moveth||8||150m|
|7||If the Spirit Doesn't Moveth||11||150m|
|8||No Birthdays on Pluto||15||90m|
|9||West Face Direct Start||10||45m|
|10||Missing You Marcelle||15||45m|
Note photo-topo route does not show pitch 1 . Consider linking pitch 1 and 2. When time to traverse across to base of main corner resist temptation to go high , although it looks easier and more pro you will be dissappointed in both departments. Drop down a little passing initial corner (#1 cam) using low feet and that blank desperate wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds. The peg belay stated on R of corner is inadequate and probably best to find one on left of corner (after heading right under rotten bridge) Once out and around the arette fantastic rock and great protection lead to a good stance also indicated by a rusty piton (unnecessary). When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully, can ignore fixed mank and use boulder , then one more pitch to true top. Probably wise to rope up for it. Take care scrambling to descent rap anchor. Typical 'bungles rack , lots of small stuff and slings.
FA: John Lawrence, David Witham, 1965
|16||East Face Route||10||260m|
|17||Dank, Dark and Dirty||13||40m|
|19||Out and Beyond||15||250m|
|20||Out and Beyond Direct Finish||14||75m|
Long/Lat: 148.999138, -31.331529
FA: J Croker & R Burek
Long/Lat: 148.995533, -31.330499
FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty
|4||The Minor Route||12||120m|
Unknown and Aid
Long/Lat: 148.995886, -31.329298
|5||Toast and Jam||14||30m|
Long/Lat: 148.995491, -31.331270
The next bluff south of the Butterknife.
Either follow the southern side of the cliff line up from the Dagda Shortcut, or down from the Grand High Tops track.
Start near the top/southern end of the wall, beneath the gap between the large roofs.
FA: John Ewbank,Alec Campbell, 1967
15m left of The Sickle
FA: John Ewbank,Alec Campbell, 1967
Long/Lat: 148.992027, -31.326024
|1||Goosey Goosey Gander||18||55m|
|2||Flight of the Phonies||20||110m|
Unknown, Trad and Aid
Long/Lat: 148.995733, -31.337490
- Description:© (koala)
One of the four prominent spires in the Park. Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib Direct"
- Approach:© (koala)
Approach from Dagda Saddle. Follow the climber's path down the creek till it joins another creek below the west face. If you walk up diagonally left you arrive below the gully that leads up to leiben, and this is where the descent ends up too, a good place to leave shoes etc. For Cornerstone Rib, head left along the base, to the far north west corner.
The normal descent is down "Green Glacier", a canyon that splits the summit. This can be tricky in the dark or wet; take care and rope up when necessary. The first possible abseil is near the top of the canyon and is an easy down climb if dry. The chains are on the far right of the canyon (looking down). You follow a vague path down about 12m and they are on the right wall just below a small tree. There are other random anchors on the way down if it's wet or dark. The first obligatory rap station is where the canyon abruptly ends at the waterfall. Chains are at knee height on the left wall. Its a 30m rap to the terrace. From here walk down and left (facing the cliff) about 20m, and scramble down a short gully, walk left 8m or so, then up onto a block. The rap chains are about 6m away from the wall, slightly over the edge. Hard to see and slightly dodgy to reach without clipping into something or belaying. The final rap is past one good ledge at 20m to a large ledge at 35m where you can walk off easily. If you rap all the way to the ground, 50m or so, it is harder to pull your ropes and they get stuck on the big ledge and then pull rocks on your head. -- description adapted slightly from http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/confluence/display/nswrock/Crater+Bluff
FA: Dot Butler,Marie Byles,Eric Dark, 1936
Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.
Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.
FFA: Neil Monteith (lead all pitches) & Mike Law, 2010
The major orange crackline splitting the right side of the east face. Appallingly chossy. There was an old hex jammed in the crack halfway up - most likely a bail-off piece as the crack above held several 'fun' death block surprises for the first ascent team. Start by climbing Verdun for 2 pitches then setup a trad belay 2m right of the bolt belay. Swing right from the belay into corner. Wade and chimney through epic choss (but good gear!) until the crack suddenly narrows and the walls begin to blank. Jam upwards whilst lobbing off bombs onto your cowering belayers to grovel into pea-pod belay. Thank the lord that there is now two bolts here to belay off, and not the man sized pile of rubble that first confronted the first ascent team. A rest was resorted to on the first ascent due to adrenaline overload.
FA: Neil Monteith (2nd refused to follow), 2010
Crucifixion / The Crucifixion
Looks good, follows diagonal lines of good holds and breaks. Quite runout by repute. The first pitch has had bolts replaced. Start atop the gully leading up past Lieben
FA: John Ewbank,John Worral, 1966
Two Planks and Some Nails
Start: Starts as for 'Crucifixion'.
FA: Neil Monteith, 2010
A wild excursion up a huge face. No big gear required, just heaps of small to medium wires and single set of cams. Long runners will help.
Start: In the middle of the west face is a white water streak (about 50m to the right of the large one about 20m from the far LHS).
FA: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1962
Lieben Direct Start
Not very direct, probably runout.
FA: Rick White,Paul Caffyn, 1969
A proper direct start to Lieben or a good pitch on it's own. Easy route finding as it is very direct. Start about 10m left of the white streak below Lieben. Up corner for 10m and then head up wall in the 12.30 direction. Hard past 2 bolts then past good gear in breaks and more bolts to rap station. Lieben leaves the groove above about 10m higher.
FA: Richard Croker,John Croker,@mikl, 2011
Direct line to the final pitches of Leider.
Start: 15m R of the large white streak on the L side of the W face. The climb starts on a small pedestal 7m off ground. Scramble from R, or walk on from L.
FA: Mark Wood, Julian Devery, 1998
Supposed to be quite Good. If you want to suss out 'Lieben' before committing to it, this is the way to do it.
Start: About 10m right of 'Cornerstone Rib' at base of rightward leading crack system
FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1963
|13||Rib and Gully||13||200m|
|14||Rib and Gully Direct Start||15||25m|
Cornerstone Rib Direct
The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justly so. The crux pitches are grade 14, the other gradings are my estimation.
FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1962
one of the best, most striking lines here. A total megaclassic at the grade. Hard to find much like it anywhere else in 'Australia'.
Start: See 'North Face' for full route description
|17||Buying the Farm||20||190m|
|18||Out of Sight||18||150m|
|21||North Face Route||17||190m|
Long/Lat: 148.977571, -31.327988
- Description:© (koala)
An imposing cliff with routes typically 250 metres or more in length. There are a couple of easier lines on it's eastern end, but from there the going gets a lot more serious.
Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix"
A great line and a good introduction to the Bluff.
Start: There is an obvious start to the climb, but after that you will probably end up choosing your own belay stances.
FA: Keith Bell, Greg Mortimer (alt), 1972
|4||Rim-fire Variant||17 M1||500m|
|5||Over and Out||21||250m|
Petes' new route
FA: Pete Grezl, 2012
|12||Poor Man's Flight||20||300m|
Flight of the Phoenix
Absolutely classic, possibly the best climb I have ever done. It's hard to find a thing wrong with this route. Ok, maybe the abseil after P2 is a pain, but it's still an incredible route!! Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock - what a classic! The Bungles provides another absolute icon of Australian climbing!!
Start: Start 8m down R of SJ at a stylish slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Take a 2m sling for the rap after P2.
|15||Flight of the Phoenix Variant Finish||18||90m|
Original start marked with a small 'E' under large orange overhangs up high. We started a little right of here (maybe 15 meters). This description should be used in conjunction with available guidebook descriptions. I have not mentioned the carrots and pitons you may or may not see along the way. Bring lots of small gear and slings the climb zigs and zags quite alot to keep its grade. There are some topos out there that are incorrect. One shows the last pitches leading way right again under and to the otherside of the last black overhangs , follow your nose as to what looks right. Our experience on this climb was validated by the original bolts and pitons every so often. Most importantly if its not 17 (albeit old grading and sustained) you could be off route. Any abseil chains present on the wall are for another climb though there is one on one of the belays. Do not let them distract you from Elijah. Enjoy. Its a great voyage with excellent rock.
FA: Bryden Allen, John ewbank, 1964
|24||Aladinsane Direct Finish||22||130m|
|33||Ulysses Direct Start||21||70m|
|34||Ulysses Alternative Finish||20||70m|
|35||Bonfire of the Vanities||16||190m|
|37||Tantalus Direct Finish||17|
FA: Ian Lewis, Kim Carrigan, 1974
|46||Tickle My Fancy||18||30m|
Start beneath the yellow, fragile roofs at the right end of the crag. Scramble up ledges, then sticking to the good dark rock, move up and L to beneath crack in roof guarding a short chimney. Through roof with feeling, passing the "dagger of doom" (a sharp wedged chockstone).
FA: Stu Dobbie, Heath Washbrook, 2009
- Description:© (superstu)
Extensive single pitch cliff line on east side of 'Bluff Mountain', between the walking track to the summit and Bluff Pyramid.
Distinguished by slabby ramps on the far left, massive scoopy overhangs in the middle, and broken shattered roofs on the right.
So named because of the sensation of walking between the numerous grass trees (Xanthorrhoea australis) at the base in the rain.
- Approach:© (superstu)
Cliff is visible left of walking track on the way up 'Bluff Mountain' from Nuada Saddle. Marked on the CMA "Warrumbungle National Park Tourist Map" GR 882 317.
|1||Oh Sir Winston||13||50m|
Long/Lat: 148.963585, -31.362660
|6||Antares Direct Start||21||35m|
|9||A Little Rainbow||19||150m|
|10||Starlight Express||22 M3||240m|
Long/Lat: 149.021427, -31.351616
|8||Suns and Stars||16||35m|
|9||Northern Gusto||22 M1||35m|
|11||Line of Stars||19||35m|
|12||Cold Summer Day||15||30m|
|13||The Kiruna Crooner||21||35m|
Long/Lat: 148.983754, -31.284836
|1||Candle in the Wind||12||80m|
Long/Lat: 148.982300, -31.276133
- Description:© (superstu)
This short and easily accessible cliffline is at W end of the Canyon Picnic Area
Short and Sweet
Corner (slabby start) at W end of cliff.
FA: Phil Draper, Dan Croft, Greg Croft, 1991
Ripples in Time
The cliff splitting hand and off fingers crack 4m right of Short and Sweet . Hard to believe it hasn't been climbed before ?? If no other name exisits, this name comes from the impressive fossilised sand ripples in the cave to the left.
FA: simon opper, 2014
Guns 'n' Roses
Best line on cliff. Start at shelf 15m L of Descent/Ascent 'Gully'. Crack through slight overhang (poor pro); beautiful climbing above.
FA: Graeme Bowden, John McKenna, 1991
So and So
A pleasant and interesting climb up the black wall immediately right of G n R. Traverse in from right side of ledge on good breaks. ( note: this is also a much nicer and better protected start to G n R) Pull over bulge and cruise on funky great rock trending slightly right towards the top to follow groove back left. Excellent protection, med cams to start then small and medium cams and wires to top.
FA: simon opper (onsight lead), steve opper (Dad), 2014
Arete L of Descent/'Abseil Gully'
FA: John McKenna, Phil Draper, 1991
Descent Ascent Gully
FA: unknown, 2000
On the Sunny Side
V-crack just R of DAG with small fig at three-quarters height; overhang at top.
FA: Phil Draper, John McKenna, 1991
Is This Love?
Good, well-protected climb. Finger/hand-crack in middle of wall to shrub and ledge. Move 3m R, then crack and wall.
FA: Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden, John McKenna, 1991
Testing The Waters
Follow the bolts.
Start: R of Is This Love?
FA: Neil Monteith, 2006
FA: Greg CRoft and Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club members, 1991
Back in Black
Up to shelf, then through blocky, overhanging weakness (poor rock).
Start: Start 10m round R of Siege.
FA: Graeme Bowden, Greg Croft, 1991
Up to big ledge (poor pro, rock). Over blocks, then L to twin cracks in wall. L crack, past fig.
Start: Start 10m R of 'Back in Black'
FA: Greg Croft, Jeremy Judd, 1991
|13||Descent Ascent Boulder Gully|
Through small overhang, then up very thin crack.
Start: Start in alcove in middle of short wall leading to corner (past gully and broken, rocky area).
FA: Greg Croft, Phil Draper, 1991
Nice crack up wall near corner which blanks out towards top.
FA: Jeremy Judd, Greg Croft, 1991
Obvious corner, fist-crack.
FA: John McKenna, Phil Draper, 1991
Gully with blocky start.
Start: Start 50m E of 'Magnum', past cave.
FA: Richard Savage and Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club members, 1991
Cracks and slabs to arete, then blocks at top.
Start: Start R of another, smaller cave.
FA: John McKenna, Graeme Bowden, 1991
Start 25m R of 'Tombstone'. Up snaking crack-line with broken tree at top.
FA: Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden, 1991
Broken crack-line leading to big, detached block with fist-crack behind.
Start: Start 20m R of 'Handicapped'.
FA: Phil Draper, Dan Croft, Greg Croft, 1991
Up orange slab (reachy) using pockets for gear to 2nd pebbly break, then technical traverse R for 5m (micro cams) to obvious vertical crack with good gear to top.
Start: 10m R of 'Handicapped'
FA: Heath Washbrook, 2009
Long/Lat: 148.989704, -31.279228
Long/Lat: 148.993427, -31.272201
Long/Lat: 149.002008, -31.273073
|12||Through the Windscreen||12||16m|