A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Warrumbungles 237 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.005306, -31.282894

1.1. Belougery Spire 20 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.999573, -31.330787

Description:© (jgoding)

Big pinnacle that dominates the walk in. The big grade 17 orange corner "Corcus Corner" (Spelling?) dominates.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dr Dark's Chimney 6Unknown 120m
2 Abseil Gully 10Unknown 45m
3 Tourist Traverse 6Unknown 140m
4 * Endeavour Face 14Trad 80m
5 * Vertigo

Excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbunges. 78m long (2 pitches)

FA: Roger McDonald, Alex Hromas, 1961

10Trad 78m
6 If the Spirit Moveth 8Unknown 150m
7 If the Spirit Doesn't Moveth 11Unknown 150m
8 No Birthdays on Pluto 15Unknown 90m
9 West Face Direct Start 10Unknown 45m
10 Missing You Marcelle 15Unknown 45m
11 Pegasus 15Unknown 260m
12 *** Caucasus Corner

Note photo-topo route does not show pitch 1 . Consider linking pitch 1 and 2. When time to traverse across to base of main corner resist temptation to go high , although it looks easier and more pro you will be dissappointed in both departments. Drop down a little passing initial corner (#1 cam) using low feet and that blank desperate wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds. The peg belay stated on R of corner is inadequate and probably best to find one on left of corner (after heading right under rotten bridge) Once out and around the arette fantastic rock and great protection lead to a good stance also indicated by a rusty piton (unnecessary). When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully, can ignore fixed mank and use boulder , then one more pitch to true top. Probably wise to rope up for it. Take care scrambling to descent rap anchor. Typical 'bungles rack , lots of small stuff and slings.

FA: John Lawrence, David Witham, 1965

17Trad 330m
13 Stegosaurus 17Unknown 150m
14 Scunge Gully 15Unknown 320m
15 Napawi 16Unknown 270m
16 East Face Route 10Unknown 260m
17 Dank, Dark and Dirty 13Unknown 40m
18 (Unnamed) 12Unknown 300m
19 ** Out and Beyond 15Unknown 250m
20 Out and Beyond Direct Finish 14Unknown 75m

1.2. Belougery Pinnacle 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.999138, -31.331529

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sculptor

FA: J Croker & R Burek

18Unknown 65m

1.3. The Bread-Knife 9 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.995533, -31.330499

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * East Face

FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty

17Unknown 65m
2 South-east Ramp 14Unknown 33m
3 South Arete 11Unknown 33m
4 The Minor Route 12Unknown 120m
5 Heart-stopper 18Unknown 190m
6 Broadsword 16Unknown 320m
7 Major Route 14Unknown 150m
8 North Arete 13Unknown 140m
9 Skyline Traverse 14Unknown 150m

1.4. The Butter-Knife 5 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown and Aid
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Sabre 16Unknown 78m
2 The Rapier 19Unknown 81m
3 Stiletto 18 M2Aid 90m
4 Cutlass 18Unknown 87m
5 Toast and Jam 14Unknown 30m

1.5. The Fish-Knife 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Sickle 14Unknown 39m
2 The Scythe 14Unknown 51m

1.6. Balor Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Goosey Goosey Gander 18Unknown 55m
2 Flight of the Phonies 20Unknown 110m

1.7. Crater Bluff 24 routes in Area

Summary:
Unknown, Trad and Aid

Long/Lat: 148.995733, -31.337490

Description:© (koala)

One of the four prominent spires in the Park. Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib Direct"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Tourist Route 9Unknown 63m
2 The Crucifixion 18Unknown 250m
3 * Leavin'

Direct line to the final pitches of Leider.

Start: 15m R of the large white streak on the L side of the W face. The climb starts on a small pedestal 7m off ground. Scramble from R, or walk on from L.

  1. 48m (17) Step up R onto face. Pitch drifts R past incipient twin seams to the higher of two narrow sloping ledges. Take many small wires.

  2. 50m (17) Step off L end of ledge. Unlikely, exposed, blind moves up L around blunt arete. Up and trend L around steepening on L side. Up to spacious ledge. Take care with rope drag.

  3. 38m (17) Take slab up past loose blocks to old bolt(!?) at 38m

  4. 25m (-) Up rightwards on imperfect apricot coloured rock to wide crack of Leider. Up to stance

  5. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

  6. 25m (-) Follow Rib to R side of plant choked gully

FA: Mark Wood, Julian Devery, 1998

17 RTrad 250m
4 ** Lieben

A wild excursion up a huge face. No big gear required, just heaps of small to medium wires and single set of cams. Long runners will help.

Start: In the middle of the west face is a white water streak (about 50m to the right of the large one about 20m from the far LHS).

  1. 25m (1) Original route cheated by scrambling up the vegetated gully on the right un-roped (grade 1). Real climbers should just climb the rambly wall to the left of the vegetated gully to a small ledge right of the bottom of the white streak.

  2. 30m (15) Straight up face to belay on a ledge about 5m up and right of top of white streak.

  3. 25m (16) Keep heading left (fiddly gear) on a roughly 45 degree angle until you reach a corner. Head straight up this and belay after 5m or so.

  4. 45m (17) Crux. Either up the rib on the right of the corner, or up the steep juggy corner. At 20m step right to small edge (manky BR and optional belay) or continue up crack line above. Belay on huge ledge about 2/3 height of entire west face.

  5. 40m (16) Crack tending slightly right then basically straight up to the top.

  6. 35m (10) Keep going up the very easy rocky ridge to the top

FA: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1962

17 RTrad 260m
5 Lieben Direct Start 18Unknown 48m
6 * Lieder

Supposed to be quite Good. If you want to suss out 'Lieben' before committing to it, this is the way to do it.

Start: About 10m right of 'Cornerstone Rib' at base of rightward leading crack system

  1. 33m (-) Follow right leading crack system

  2. 30m (-) Keep heading up and right to belay on huge ledge.

  3. 15m (-) Scramble across the steep rocky gully to belay below right of two ribs

  4. 40m (-) Up gully then left of two ribs on the right of the major corner system.

  5. 25m (-) up past 2 BR's and PR, chimney to chockstone

  6. 40m (-) up

FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1963

16Trad 260m
7 Vintage Rib 15Unknown 160m
8 Reluctance Rib 13Unknown 160m
9 Rib and Gully 13Unknown 200m
10 Rib and Gully Direct Start 15Unknown 25m
11 *** Cornerstone Rib Direct

The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justly so. The crux pitches are grade 14, the other gradings are my estimation.

  1. 30m (6) The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays.

  2. 30m (12)

  3. 30m (12)

  4. 20m (14) Pitches 4 and 5 are the crux and are often linked - Move out around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for a approx 5m and then up or stick closer to the arette - just follow your nose for good gear placements.

  5. 20m (14)

  6. 20m (13) Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.

  7. 20m (12)

  8. 20m (11)

FA: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1962

14Trad 190m
12 *** Cornerstone Rib

one of the best, most striking lines here. A total megaclassic at the grade. Hard to find much like it anywhere else in 'Australia'.

Start: See 'North Face' for full route description

8Trad 220m
13 Buying the Farm 20Unknown 190m
14 Out of Sight 18Unknown 150m
15 Diagonal Route 15Unknown 240m
16 Cross-cut 11Unknown 160m
17 North Face Route 17Unknown 190m
18 Outbluffed 18Unknown
19 Job 14 M1Aid 120m
20 Eastern Route 12Unknown 90m
21 Crucifixion 18Trad
22 Two Planks and Some Nails

Direct start to 'Crucifixion'. Easy start on trad, then techy face past three FHs to runout scary finish on shallow small wires to double bolt anchor at end of 'Crucifixion' pitch 1.

Start: Starts as for 'Crucifixion'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

21Mixed 25m, 3
23 * Verdun

Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.

Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.

  1. 35m (20) Wall (3 FHs) to left facing orange corner with fiddly small gear. At the top of corner step left onto wall (vital small wires) and then up trending slightly right past 2 FHs and several small wires and cams. Belay on ledge at DBB. 5 bolts.

  2. 30m (14) Up blocky crackline just to the left of the belay to small ledge belay 3m left of major chossy orange corner (Hex Generation).

  3. 25m (22) Straight up tricky wall on trad for 10m to FH, then continue up and right on steep grey wall and arete past a further 4 FHs to final exposed right step across crack into pea-pod belay directly above 'Hex Generation' crackline. 5 bolts.

  4. 40m (24) Pumpy technical climbing on the left wall - keeping left of the bolts makes for harder but better climbing. Stay right and experience chossy terror. When the bolts run out follow the corner crack for 25m to comfy big ledge. 6 bolts.

  5. 48m (24) Move belay to double bolts at far left end of ledge. Up slab and out left across face with couple of tough moves. Finish up epic wall with a section of micro wires supplementing the bolts. Belay on ledge at double rings. This is the last opportunity to rap off. 9 bolts.

  6. 45m (14) Up blocky line above then leftwards up easy angled corner on lovely rock. Belay on trad when you can.

  7. 40m (14) Continue up leftwards leaning easy crack line to summit. Traverse ridge and then down the Green 'Gully'.

FFA: Neil Monteith (lead all pitches) & Mike Law, 2010

24Trad 260m
24 Hex Generation

The major orange crackline splitting the right side of the east face. Appallingly chossy. There was an old hex jammed in the crack halfway up - most likely a bail-off piece as the crack above held several 'fun' death block surprises for the first ascent team. Start by climbing Verdun for 2 pitches then setup a trad belay 2m right of the bolt belay. Swing right from the belay into corner. Wade and chimney through epic choss (but good gear!) until the crack suddenly narrows and the walls begin to blank. Jam upwards whilst lobbing off bombs onto your cowering belayers to grovel into pea-pod belay. Thank the lord that there is now two bolts here to belay off, and not the man sized pile of rubble that first confronted the first ascent team. A rest was resorted to on the first ascent due to adrenaline overload.

FA: Neil Monteith (2nd refused to follow), 2010

20 RTrad 20m

1.8. Bluff Mountain 47 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.977571, -31.327988

Description:© (koala)

An imposing cliff with routes typically 250 metres or more in length. There are a couple of easier lines on it's eastern end, but from there the going gets a lot more serious.

Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North-west Gully 10Unknown 190m
2 Bastion Buttress

A great line and a good introduction to the Bluff.

Start: There is an obvious start to the climb, but after that you will probably end up choosing your own belay stances.

  1. 30m (13) Start at the base of the prominant, blunt buttress. Move up trending left (don't go too high) to a good recess.

  2. 30m (13) Don't go too far to the left on the 2nd pitch, but move up to the buttress when feasible.

  3. 35m (12) The pitch lengths might vary, I have just added 35 metre pitches to complete the total climb length in the 7 pitches. Also the grades certainly ease up as you gain height and the grades stated are my own estimation.

  4. 35m (11)

  5. 35m (11)

  6. 35m (10)

  7. 40m (7)

FA: Keith Bell, Greg Mortimer (alt), 1972

13Trad 240m
3 Rim-fire 17Unknown 480m
4 Rim-fire Variant 17 M1Aid 500m
5 Over and Out 21Unknown 250m
6 Petes' new route

FA: Pete Grezl, 2012

22Mixed 200m, 4
7 Stonewall Jackson 20Unknown 290m
8 Rebel Tour 17Unknown 150m
9 Blade-runner 20Unknown 260m
10 * London's Dockyard 19Unknown 300m
11 Escalade 19Unknown 230m
12 Poor Man's Flight 20Unknown 300m
13 Kante Betrachtugn 20Unknown 300m
14 *** Flight of the Phoenix

Absolutely classic, possibly the best climb I have ever done. It's hard to find a thing wrong with this route. Ok, maybe the abseil after P2 is a pain, but it's still an incredible route!! Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock - what a classic! The Bungles provides another absolute icon of Australian climbing!!

Start: Start 8m down R of SJ at a stylish slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Take a 2m sling for the rap after P2.

  1. 45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate (dicky?) traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).

  2. 30m (18) Slightly harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! With flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge. Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing' (many small wires and #3 camalot down low behind loose-ish block).

  3. 45m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognisable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance. 4) (* 42m 14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness ~6m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 6) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P5 needs to go.

  4. 42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness ~6m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 6) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P5 needs to go.

  5. 42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! :-) Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L to some

  6. 48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.

  7. 48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!

18Trad 330m
15 Flight of the Phoenix Variant Finish 18Unknown 90m
16 Xoanon 22Unknown 110m
17 Cracked Pane 24Unknown 300m
18 Ahab 19Unknown 360m
19 Lusty's 21Unknown 300m
20 ** Elijah 17Unknown 360m
21 Trouser Tracks 21Unknown 320m
22 Abraham 20Unknown 330m
23 * Aladinsane 19Unknown 320m
24 Aladinsane Direct Finish 22Unknown 130m
25 Captain Blood 21Unknown 350m
26 * Ginsberg 19Unknown 330m
27 * Neruda 18Unknown 340m
28 Neruda Direct 19Unknown 320m
29 For Starters 23Unknown 320m
30 Gettysberg Address 21Unknown 320m
31 Baal 20Unknown 300m
32 * Ulysses 20Unknown 240m
33 Ulysses Direct Start 21Unknown 70m
34 Ulysses Alternative Finish 20Unknown 70m
35 Bonfire of the Vanities 16Unknown 190m
36 Tantalus 18Unknown 230m
37 Tantalus Direct Finish 17Unknown
38 Steeplechase 20Unknown 90m
39 Tartarus

FA: Ian Lewis, Kim Carrigan, 1974

21Unknown 230m
40 * Icarus 19Unknown 290m
41 Ultra-violent 23Unknown 35m
42 Falling Feathers 19Unknown 280m
43 Childhood's End 21Unknown 260m
44 Daedalus 20Unknown 260m
45 Meschach 18Unknown 260m
46 Tickle My Fancy 18Unknown 30m
47 Suds'n'all

Start beneath the yellow, fragile roofs at the right end of the crag. Scramble up ledges, then sticking to the good dark rock, move up and L to beneath crack in roof guarding a short chimney. Through roof with feeling, passing the "dagger of doom" (a sharp wedged chockstone).

FA: Stu Dobbie, Heath Washbrook, 2009

17Trad 35m

1.8.1. Car Wash Crag 0 routes in Area

Description:© (superstu)

Extensive single pitch cliff line on east side of 'Bluff Mountain', between the walking track to the summit and Bluff Pyramid.

Distinguished by slabby ramps on the far left, massive scoopy overhangs in the middle, and broken shattered roofs on the right.

So named because of the sensation of walking between the numerous grass trees (Xanthorrhoea australis) at the base in the rain.

Approach:© (superstu)

Cliff is visible left of walking track on the way up 'Bluff Mountain' from Nuada Saddle. Marked on the CMA "Warrumbungle National Park Tourist Map" GR 882 317.

1.9. Bluff Minor 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alley-oops 8Unknown 100m
2 Fat Freddy 6Unknown 40m
3 Spitten Image 17Unknown 55m
4 Forever Flying 16Unknown 70m

1.10. Armid Dome 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Roger Rude 13Unknown 30m

1.11. Churchill Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Oh Sir Winston 13Unknown 50m

1.12. Danu Scree 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hip Joint 12Unknown 40m

1.13. Tonduron 13 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 148.963585, -31.362660

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * South Arete 5Unknown 170m
2 Southern Gully 8Unknown 150m
3 West Ridge 4Unknown 160m
4 * North-west Groove 15Unknown 150m
5 * Antares 19Unknown 160m
6 Antares Direct Start 21Unknown 35m
7 Northern Groove 18Unknown 150m
8 Rocket Ride 15Unknown 40m
9 * A Little Rainbow 19Unknown 150m
10 Starlight Express 22 M3Aid 240m
11 Virago 20Unknown 210m
12 Saratoga 17Unknown 180m
13 Chimney Freak 17Unknown 180m

1.14. Mt Naman 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Staccato 14Unknown 110m
2 Plimsoll 14Unknown 96m

1.15. The Needle 18 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Climb 8Unknown 39m
2 Colour-blind 11Unknown 35m
3 Safe Bet 11Unknown 35m
4 Dreaming 12Unknown 35m
5 Optical Illusion 13Unknown 35m
6 Deception 12Unknown 35m
7 Northern Lights 14Unknown 35m
8 Suns and Stars 16Unknown 35m
9 Northern Gusto 22 M1Aid 35m
10 * Eugowra 19Unknown 35m
11 Line of Stars 19Unknown 35m
12 Cold Summer Day 15Unknown 30m
13 * The Kiruna Crooner 21Unknown 35m
14 Forgotten Climb 14Unknown 40m
15 Windy Ways 16Unknown 48m
16 Unnamed Climb 15Unknown 51m
17 Ramshead South 12Unknown 51m
18 Irish Nightmare 18Unknown 50m

1.16. Berumbuckle Split Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wet Trick 13Unknown 140m

1.17. Timor Rock 27 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.157250, -31.263652

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Wallaby Track 16Unknown 110m
2 Tourist Route 8Unknown 80m
3 Tourist Route Variant 8Unknown 70m
4 Next Best 10Unknown 80m
5 Lost Four 13Unknown 40m
6 Aladdin's Lamp 14Unknown 80m
7 * Kamilaroi 18Unknown 90m
8 Indigenous 17Unknown 80m
9 Brother 14Unknown 70m
10 Corm's Invitation 17Unknown 80m
11 * April Fool 16Unknown 100m
12 The Falcon Flies 15Unknown 80m
13 Gulf Crisis 15Unknown 80m
14 Beachcomber 17Unknown 100m
15 Falcon Nest 10Unknown 70m
16 Billy 9Unknown 70m
17 Dark Side of the Moon 15Unknown 80m
18 Cissus 15Unknown 100m
19 Done in Dunlops 16Unknown 100m
20 Sunday School 14Unknown 100m
21 * Horizons 17Unknown 90m
22 Face Value 15Unknown 35m
23 Walk on the Wild Side 17Unknown 100m
24 Intrigue 15Unknown 80m
25 Gates of Hell 17Unknown 20m
26 Sunnyside 15Unknown 30m
27 Wandering Wilburys 15Unknown 65m

1.18. Mopra Rock 7 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown

Long/Lat: 149.087220, -31.275641

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 West Ridge 6Unknown 80m
2 Gold, Gold, Gold 7Unknown 50m
3 Errol Street 11Unknown 80m
4 One-move Wonder 16Unknown 30m
5 Simple Simon 12Unknown 75m
6 Antman 12Unknown 70m
7 Old Timer 12Unknown 55m

1.19. The Fantail 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Candle in the Wind 12Unknown 80m
2 Fantasy 16Unknown 70m

1.20. Mt Scabilon 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Henri Wintermans 15Unknown 88m

1.21. Dead Cow Cliffs 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Without Bloodshed 18Unknown 35m
2 Battle-weary 14Unknown 35m

1.22. Mata Rocks 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sidehold Wall 7Unknown 21m

1.23. Canyon Cliffs 21 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (superstu)

This short and easily accessible cliffline is at W end of the Canyon Picnic Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Short and Sweet

Corner (slabby start) at W end of cliff.

FA: Phil Draper, Dan Croft, Greg Croft, 1991

14Trad 15m
2 *** Ripples in Time

The cliff splitting hand and off fingers crack 4m right of Short and Sweet . Hard to believe it hasn't been climbed before ?? If no other name exisits, this name comes from the impressive fossilised sand ripples in the cave to the left.

FA: simon opper, 2014

20Trad 15m
3 * Guns 'n' Roses

Best line on cliff. Start at shelf 15m L of Descent/Ascent 'Gully'. Crack through slight overhang (poor pro); beautiful climbing above.

FA: Graeme Bowden, John McKenna, 1991

18Trad 35m
4 ** So and So

A pleasant and interesting climb up the black wall immediately right of G n R. Traverse in from right side of ledge on good breaks. ( note: this is also a much nicer and better protected start to G n R) Pull over bulge and cruise on funky great rock trending slightly right towards the top to follow groove back left. Excellent protection, med cams to start then small and medium cams and wires to top.

FA: simon opper (onsight lead), steve opper (Dad), 2014

17Trad 35m
5 Prologue

Arete L of Descent/'Abseil Gully'

FA: John McKenna, Phil Draper, 1991

11Trad 25m
6 Descent Ascent Gully

Obvious gully

FA: unknown, 2000

4Trad 20m
7 On the Sunny Side

V-crack just R of DAG with small fig at three-quarters height; overhang at top.

FA: Phil Draper, John McKenna, 1991

14Trad 35m
8 Is This Love?

Good, well-protected climb. Finger/hand-crack in middle of wall to shrub and ledge. Move 3m R, then crack and wall.

FA: Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden, John McKenna, 1991

19Trad 35m
9 * Testing The Waters

Follow the bolts.

Start: R of Is This Love?

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

19Sport 17m
10 Slege

Corner

FA: Greg CRoft and Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club members, 1991

13Trad 35m
11 Back in Black

Up to shelf, then through blocky, overhanging weakness (poor rock).

Start: Start 10m round R of Siege.

FA: Graeme Bowden, Greg Croft, 1991

15Trad 30m
12 Justice

Up to big ledge (poor pro, rock). Over blocks, then L to twin cracks in wall. L crack, past fig.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Back in Black'

FA: Greg Croft, Jeremy Judd, 1991

19Trad 35m
13 Descent Ascent Boulder Gully Boulder
14 Chi

Through small overhang, then up very thin crack.

Start: Start in alcove in middle of short wall leading to corner (past gully and broken, rocky area).

FA: Greg Croft, Phil Draper, 1991

21Trad 10m
15 Life Energy

Nice crack up wall near corner which blanks out towards top.

FA: Jeremy Judd, Greg Croft, 1991

19Trad 10m
16 Magnum

Obvious corner, fist-crack.

FA: John McKenna, Phil Draper, 1991

10Trad 10m
17 Swimmer's Retreat

Gully with blocky start.

Start: Start 50m E of 'Magnum', past cave.

FA: Richard Savage and Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club members, 1991

8Trad 20m
18 Tombstone

Cracks and slabs to arete, then blocks at top.

Start: Start R of another, smaller cave.

FA: John McKenna, Graeme Bowden, 1991

10Trad 20m
19 Handicapped

Start 25m R of 'Tombstone'. Up snaking crack-line with broken tree at top.

FA: Greg Croft, Graeme Bowden, 1991

17Trad 20m
20 Lazy Days

Broken crack-line leading to big, detached block with fist-crack behind.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Handicapped'.

FA: Phil Draper, Dan Croft, Greg Croft, 1991

12Trad 15m
21 Tango Spotted

Up orange slab (reachy) using pockets for gear to 2nd pebbly break, then technical traverse R for 5m (micro cams) to obvious vertical crack with good gear to top.

Start: 10m R of 'Handicapped'

FA: Heath Washbrook, 2009

20Trad 20m

1.24. Nature Track Cliffs 6 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Amazon 11Unknown 30m
2 Custodian 13Unknown 35m
3 Yellow Terror 18Unknown 40m
4 Iron Cross 18Unknown 20m
5 Reflections 17Unknown 15m
6 Leaning Love 19Unknown 15m

1.25. Buckleys Cliffs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 School's Out 15Unknown 55m

1.26. Blackmans Bluff 14 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blackman's First 6Unknown 8m
2 Jenny's Favour 13Unknown 10m
3 Young Blood 12Unknown 9m
4 Middle East 12Unknown 10m
5 Shady 15Unknown 10m
6 Boomerang 16Unknown 10m
7 Just Visiting 15Unknown 10m
8 Skinks 11Unknown 7m
9 The Crescent 13Unknown 10m
10 The Cross 11Unknown 10m
11 Wendy's Favour 15Unknown 12m
12 Through the Windscreen 12Unknown 16m
13 Kaifji 13Unknown 13m
14 Tornado 11Unknown 12m

1.27. Belougery Split Rock 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Third Dan 17Unknown 110m
2 West Face 12Unknown 140m
3 Zany Daze 10Unknown 70m
4 Hot Daze 6Unknown 50m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 West Ridge Unknown 160m 1.13. Tonduron
Descent Ascent Gully Trad 20m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
5 * South Arete Unknown 170m 1.13. Tonduron
6 Dr Dark's Chimney Unknown 120m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Tourist Traverse Unknown 140m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Fat Freddy Unknown 40m 1.9. Bluff Minor
West Ridge Unknown 80m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Blackman's First Unknown 8m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Hot Daze Unknown 50m 1.27. Belougery Split Rock
7 Gold, Gold, Gold Unknown 50m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Sidehold Wall Unknown 21m 1.22. Mata Rocks
8 If the Spirit Moveth Unknown 150m 1.1. Belougery Spire
*** Cornerstone Rib Trad 220m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Alley-oops Unknown 100m 1.9. Bluff Minor
Southern Gully Unknown 150m 1.13. Tonduron
The Climb Unknown 39m 1.15. The Needle
Tourist Route Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Tourist Route Variant Unknown 70m 1.17. Timor Rock
Swimmer's Retreat Trad 20m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
9 * Tourist Route Unknown 63m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Billy Unknown 70m 1.17. Timor Rock
10 Abseil Gully Unknown 45m 1.1. Belougery Spire
East Face Route Unknown 260m 1.1. Belougery Spire
* Vertigo Trad 78m 1.1. Belougery Spire
West Face Direct Start Unknown 45m 1.1. Belougery Spire
North-west Gully Unknown 190m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Falcon Nest Unknown 70m 1.17. Timor Rock
Next Best Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Magnum Trad 10m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Tombstone Trad 20m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Zany Daze Unknown 70m 1.27. Belougery Split Rock
11 If the Spirit Doesn't Moveth Unknown 150m 1.1. Belougery Spire
South Arete Unknown 33m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Cross-cut Unknown 160m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Colour-blind Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Safe Bet Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Errol Street Unknown 80m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Prologue Trad 25m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Amazon Unknown 30m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
Skinks Unknown 7m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
The Cross Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Tornado Unknown 12m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
12 (Unnamed) Unknown 300m 1.1. Belougery Spire
The Minor Route Unknown 120m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Eastern Route Unknown 90m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Hip Joint Unknown 40m 1.12. Danu Scree
Deception Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Dreaming Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Ramshead South Unknown 51m 1.15. The Needle
Antman Unknown 70m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Old Timer Unknown 55m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Simple Simon Unknown 75m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Candle in the Wind Unknown 80m 1.19. The Fantail
Lazy Days Trad 15m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Middle East Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Through the Windscreen Unknown 16m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Young Blood Unknown 9m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
West Face Unknown 140m 1.27. Belougery Split Rock
13 Dank, Dark and Dirty Unknown 40m 1.1. Belougery Spire
North Arete Unknown 140m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Reluctance Rib Unknown 160m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Rib and Gully Unknown 200m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Bastion Buttress Trad 240m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Roger Rude Unknown 30m 1.10. Armid Dome
Oh Sir Winston Unknown 50m 1.11. Churchill Rock
Optical Illusion Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Wet Trick Unknown 140m 1.16. Berumbuckle Split Rock
Lost Four Unknown 40m 1.17. Timor Rock
Slege Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Custodian Unknown 35m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
Jenny's Favour Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Kaifji Unknown 13m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
The Crescent Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
14 * Endeavour Face Trad 80m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Out and Beyond Direct Finish Unknown 75m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Major Route Unknown 150m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Skyline Traverse Unknown 150m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
South-east Ramp Unknown 33m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Toast and Jam Unknown 30m 1.4. The Butter-Knife
The Scythe Unknown 51m 1.5. The Fish-Knife
The Sickle Unknown 39m 1.5. The Fish-Knife
*** Cornerstone Rib Direct Trad 190m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Plimsoll Unknown 96m 1.14. Mt Naman
Staccato Unknown 110m 1.14. Mt Naman
Forgotten Climb Unknown 40m 1.15. The Needle
Northern Lights Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Aladdin's Lamp Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Brother Unknown 70m 1.17. Timor Rock
Sunday School Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Battle-weary Unknown 35m 1.21. Dead Cow Cliffs
On the Sunny Side Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Short and Sweet Trad 15m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
14 M1 Job Aid 120m 1.7. Crater Bluff
15 Missing You Marcelle Unknown 45m 1.1. Belougery Spire
No Birthdays on Pluto Unknown 90m 1.1. Belougery Spire
** Out and Beyond Unknown 250m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Pegasus Unknown 260m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Scunge Gully Unknown 320m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Diagonal Route Unknown 240m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Rib and Gully Direct Start Unknown 25m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Vintage Rib Unknown 160m 1.7. Crater Bluff
* North-west Groove Unknown 150m 1.13. Tonduron
Rocket Ride Unknown 40m 1.13. Tonduron
Cold Summer Day Unknown 30m 1.15. The Needle
Unnamed Climb Unknown 51m 1.15. The Needle
Cissus Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Dark Side of the Moon Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Face Value Unknown 35m 1.17. Timor Rock
Gulf Crisis Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Intrigue Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Sunnyside Unknown 30m 1.17. Timor Rock
The Falcon Flies Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Wandering Wilburys Unknown 65m 1.17. Timor Rock
Henri Wintermans Unknown 88m 1.20. Mt Scabilon
Back in Black Trad 30m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
School's Out Unknown 55m 1.25. Buckleys Cliffs
Just Visiting Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Shady Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
Wendy's Favour Unknown 12m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
16 Napawi Unknown 270m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Broadsword Unknown 320m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
The Sabre Unknown 78m 1.4. The Butter-Knife
* Lieder Trad 260m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Bonfire of the Vanities Unknown 190m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Forever Flying Unknown 70m 1.9. Bluff Minor
Suns and Stars Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Windy Ways Unknown 48m 1.15. The Needle
* April Fool Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Done in Dunlops Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Wallaby Track Unknown 110m 1.17. Timor Rock
One-move Wonder Unknown 30m 1.18. Mopra Rock
Fantasy Unknown 70m 1.19. The Fantail
Boomerang Unknown 10m 1.26. Blackmans Bluff
17 *** Caucasus Corner Trad 330m 1.1. Belougery Spire
Stegosaurus Unknown 150m 1.1. Belougery Spire
* East Face Unknown 65m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
* Leavin' Trad 250m 1.7. Crater Bluff
** Lieben Trad 260m 1.7. Crater Bluff
North Face Route Unknown 190m 1.7. Crater Bluff
** Elijah Unknown 360m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Rebel Tour Unknown 150m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Rim-fire Unknown 480m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Suds'n'all Trad 35m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Tantalus Direct Finish Unknown 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Spitten Image Unknown 55m 1.9. Bluff Minor
Chimney Freak Unknown 180m 1.13. Tonduron
Saratoga Unknown 180m 1.13. Tonduron
Beachcomber Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Corm's Invitation Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Gates of Hell Unknown 20m 1.17. Timor Rock
* Horizons Unknown 90m 1.17. Timor Rock
Indigenous Unknown 80m 1.17. Timor Rock
Walk on the Wild Side Unknown 100m 1.17. Timor Rock
Handicapped Trad 20m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
** So and So Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Reflections Unknown 15m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
Third Dan Unknown 110m 1.27. Belougery Split Rock
17 M1 Rim-fire Variant Aid 500m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
18 Sculptor Unknown 65m 1.2. Belougery Pinnacle
Heart-stopper Unknown 190m 1.3. The Bread-Knife
Cutlass Unknown 87m 1.4. The Butter-Knife
Goosey Goosey Gander Unknown 55m 1.6. Balor Peak
Crucifixion Trad 1.7. Crater Bluff
Lieben Direct Start Unknown 48m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Out of Sight Unknown 150m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Outbluffed Unknown 1.7. Crater Bluff
The Crucifixion Unknown 250m 1.7. Crater Bluff
*** Flight of the Phoenix Trad 330m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Flight of the Phoenix Variant Finish Unknown 90m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Meschach Unknown 260m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* Neruda Unknown 340m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Tantalus Unknown 230m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Tickle My Fancy Unknown 30m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Northern Groove Unknown 150m 1.13. Tonduron
Irish Nightmare Unknown 50m 1.15. The Needle
* Kamilaroi Unknown 90m 1.17. Timor Rock
Without Bloodshed Unknown 35m 1.21. Dead Cow Cliffs
* Guns 'n' Roses Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Iron Cross Unknown 20m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
Yellow Terror Unknown 40m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
18 M2 Stiletto Aid 90m 1.4. The Butter-Knife
19 The Rapier Unknown 81m 1.4. The Butter-Knife
Ahab Unknown 360m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* Aladinsane Unknown 320m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Escalade Unknown 230m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Falling Feathers Unknown 280m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* Ginsberg Unknown 330m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* Icarus Unknown 290m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* London's Dockyard Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Neruda Direct Unknown 320m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* A Little Rainbow Unknown 150m 1.13. Tonduron
* Antares Unknown 160m 1.13. Tonduron
* Eugowra Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Line of Stars Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Is This Love? Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Justice Trad 35m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Life Energy Trad 10m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
* Testing The Waters Sport 17m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Leaning Love Unknown 15m 1.24. Nature Track Cliffs
20 Flight of the Phonies Unknown 110m 1.6. Balor Peak
Buying the Farm Unknown 190m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Hex Generation Trad 20m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Abraham Unknown 330m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Baal Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Blade-runner Unknown 260m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Daedalus Unknown 260m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Kante Betrachtugn Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Poor Man's Flight Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Steeplechase Unknown 90m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Stonewall Jackson Unknown 290m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
* Ulysses Unknown 240m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Ulysses Alternative Finish Unknown 70m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Virago Unknown 210m 1.13. Tonduron
*** Ripples in Time Trad 15m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
Tango Spotted Trad 20m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
21 Two Planks and Some Nails Mixed 25m, 3 1.7. Crater Bluff
Captain Blood Unknown 350m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Childhood's End Unknown 260m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Gettysberg Address Unknown 320m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Lusty's Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Over and Out Unknown 250m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Tartarus Unknown 230m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Trouser Tracks Unknown 320m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Ulysses Direct Start Unknown 70m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Antares Direct Start Unknown 35m 1.13. Tonduron
* The Kiruna Crooner Unknown 35m 1.15. The Needle
Chi Trad 10m 1.23. Canyon Cliffs
22 Aladinsane Direct Finish Unknown 130m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Petes' new route Mixed 200m, 4 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Xoanon Unknown 110m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
22 M1 Northern Gusto Aid 35m 1.15. The Needle
22 M3 Starlight Express Aid 240m 1.13. Tonduron
23 For Starters Unknown 320m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
Ultra-violent Unknown 35m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
24 * Verdun Trad 260m 1.7. Crater Bluff
Cracked Pane Unknown 300m 1.8. Bluff Mountain
? Descent Ascent Boulder Gully Boulder 1.23. Canyon Cliffs