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Description:

The following two routes, one a variant of the other have only vague route descriptions. They start at the top of the first gully that leads up to Halfway Ledge on W Face. The upper pitches of both climbs lie R of Doctor Dark's Chimney; the first follows a wall and a rib, the second a gully.

Start where access track reaches SW Arete.

  1. Up gully above. Traverse to nose.

  2. Continue up nose on gully side. Walk to top of pinnacle.

  3. Traverse R under Doctor Dark's Chimney.

  4. Exposure increases dramatically as you traverse R across a difficult nose. Veer up at about 45 degrees to base of rib.

  5. To S summit.

Attributed by Bryden Allen in 63 to Davis and Pettigrew. Description is from an earlier, more detailed record.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Graeme Mitchell, John Drummond & Warren Little, 1959

Location:  

Located in West Face approx:
Long/Lat: 148.999217,-31.330871

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

8 Community registered grade
8 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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