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The following two routes, one a variant of the other have only vague route descriptions. They start at the top of the first gully that leads up to Halfway Ledge on W Face. The upper pitches of both climbs lie R of Doctor Dark's Chimney; the first follows a wall and a rib, the second a gully.

Start where access track reaches SW Arete.

  1. Up gully above. Traverse to nose.

  2. Continue up nose on gully side. Walk to top of pinnacle.

  3. Traverse R under Doctor Dark's Chimney.

  4. Exposure increases dramatically as you traverse R across a difficult nose. Veer up at about 45 degrees to base of rib.

  5. To S summit.

Attributed by Bryden Allen in 63 to Davis and Pettigrew. Description is from an earlier, more detailed record.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Graeme Mitchell, John Drummond & Warren Little, 7 Jan 1959


Located in West Face approx:
Lat/Long: -31.330871,148.999217

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8 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles

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