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Description:© (jgoding)

Start: 15m right of Scunge Gully.

  1. 45m Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steelp right.

  2. 21m Up corner to bush.

  3. 36m Out left to the rib and up easily to the base of the projecting buttress. Somewhat loose.

  4. 28m Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of groove. Belay on ledge above small layback.

  5. 21m Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

  6. 33m Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner.

  7. 24m Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (Rotten rock bridge to right.)

  8. 18m Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall to (peg) stance below overhang.

  9. 24m Left across corner and up diagonally left (loose blocks). Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

  10. 21m Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

  11. 21m Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. (small overhangs).

  12. 33m Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then go onto summit.

Note photo-topo route does not show pitch 1. Consider inking pitch 1 and 2. When time to traverse across to base of main corner resist temptation to go high , although it looks easier and more pro you will be dissappointed in both departments. Drop down a little passing initial corner (#1 cam) using low feet and that blank desperate wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds. The peg belay stated on R of corner is inadequate and probably best to find one on left of corner (after heading right under rotten bridge) Once out and around the arete fantastic rock and great protection lead to a good stance also indicated by a rusty piton (unnecessary). When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully, can ignore fixed mank and use boulder , then one more pitch to true top. Probably wise to rope up for it. Take care scrambling to descent rap anchor. Typical 'bungles rack , lots of small stuff and slings.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Lawrence & David Witham, 1965

Location:  

Located in North West Face approx:
Long/Lat: 148.999318,-31.330321

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles
17 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fantastic good great fun exposed epic traverse

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