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Description:© (jgoding)

Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.

  1. 45m Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steeply right.

  2. 21m Up corner to bush.

  3. 36m Out left to the rib and up easily to the right hand base of the projecting buttress (the base of the corner). Somewhat loose.

  4. 28m Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of corner. Belay on ledge above small layback.

  5. 21m Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

  6. 33m Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner. Resist temptation to go high , although it looks like it is easier and has more pro you will be disappointed in both departments. The desperate looking wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds.

  7. 24m Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (beneath rotten rock bridge)

  8. 18m Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall. The original route went to (peg) stance below an overhang on the right but this belay offers limited protection (other than the peg). A better alternative is to look for a belay to the left of the corner.

  9. 24m Diagonally left (loose blocks) through the line of weakness across the face leading out to the arete. Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

  10. 21m Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

  11. 21m Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. Belay on a big ledge on the right, under small overhangs.

  12. 33m Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then on to summit.

When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Lawrence & David Witham, 1965


Located in North Face approx:
Lat/Long: -31.330336,148.999564

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles
17 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 82%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fantastic good amazing great fun tricky exposed arete epic dodgy traverse

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