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Description:© (jgoding)

Start 15 m L of Pegasus.

  1. 45 m Up L-leading ramp for 9 m, then diagonally L with increasing exposure to base of R· sloping corner. Piton belay.

  2. 21 m Up corner to bush.

  3. 36 m L to rib. Up easily to base of buttress.

  4. 28 m Traverse 5 m R, then steep wall to R of groove to belay just above small layback.

  5. 21 m Up corner and loose blocks to Half-way Ledge (FA party camped here!).

  6. 33 m Traverse delicately L and down to base of huge comer.

  7. 24 m Corner.

  8. 18 m Move R to avoid loose blocks, then wall to stance below overhang.

  9. 24 m traverse L across corner, than diagonally L to belay ledge on extreme edge. Loose.

  10. 21 m Round corner to L and past first groove. Second groove to ledge.

  11. 21 m Up R to small corner, Then nose on L to groove and overhangs. Belay on shelf.

  12. 33 m R and up through overhangs. Work L and up to summit.

Note photo-topo route does not show pitch 1 . Consider linking pitch 1 and 2. When time to traverse across to base of main corner resist temptation to go high , although it looks easier and more pro you will be dissappointed in both departments. Drop down a little passing initial corner (#1 cam) using low feet and that blank desperate wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds. The peg belay stated on R of corner is inadequate and probably best to find one on left of corner (after heading right under rotten bridge) Once out and around the arete fantastic rock and great protection lead to a good stance also indicated by a rusty piton (unnecessary). When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully, can ignore fixed mank and use boulder , then one more pitch to true top. Probably wise to rope up for it. Take care scrambling to descent rap anchor. Typical 'bungles rack , lots of small stuff and slings.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Lawrence & David Witham, 1965


Located in Belougery Spire approx:
Long/Lat: 148.999573,-31.330787

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles
17 ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 81%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fantastic good great fun exposed epic traverse

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