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Description:© (jgoding)

A wild excursion up a huge face and was Australia's hardest climb for many years. An outstanding achievement by Allen. No big gear required, just heaps of small to medium wires and single set of cams. Long runners will help.

Start: In the middle of the west face is a white water streak (about 50m to the right of the large one about 20m from the far LHS).

  1. 25m (1) Original route cheated by scrambling up the vegetated gully on the right un-roped (grade 1). Real climbers should just climb the rambly wall to the left of the vegetated gully to a small ledge right of the bottom of the white streak.

  2. 30m (15) Straight up face to belay on a ledge about 5m up and right of top of white streak.

  3. 25m (16) Keep heading left (fiddly gear) on a roughly 45 degree angle until you reach a corner. Head straight up this and belay after 5m or so.

  4. 45m (17) Crux. Either up the rib on the right of the corner, or up the steep juggy corner. At 20m step right to small edge (manky BR and optional belay) or continue up crack line above. Belay on huge ledge about 2/3 height of entire west face.

  5. 40m (16) Crack tending slightly right then basically straight up to the top.

  6. 35m (10) Keep going up the very easy rocky ridge to the top

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1962


Located in Crater Bluff approx:
Lat/Long: -31.337490,148.995733

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 R Community registered grade
17 OZ Rock
17 Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles
17 R ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard brilliant amazing great nice scary rest crazy

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