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Description:© (koala)

The most popular climb in the 'Warrumbungles' and justly so. The crux pitches are grade 14, the other gradings are my estimation.

  1. 30m (6) The first 90 metres was originally climbed in three pitches but can be done quite safely in two rope stretching pitches (50m rope), including comfy belays.

  2. 30m (12)

  3. 30m (12)

  4. 20m (14) Pitches 4 and 5 are the crux and are often linked - Move out around the rib at the little horn and onto the northern face for a approx 5m and then up or stick closer to the arette - just follow your nose for good gear placements.

  5. 20m (14)

  6. 20m (13) Up the rib from here on. The ledges for good belays are pretty obvious and about 20 metres apart.

  7. 20m (12)

  8. 20m (11)

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bryden Allen, Ted Batty, 1962

Location:  

Located in Crater Bluff approx:
Long/Lat: 148.995733,-31.337490

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 OZ Rock
14 Principal
14 * Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles
14 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 85%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux fun nice fantastic good brilliant great lovely exciting classic scary exposed bad vertical interesting arete epic dodgy traverse

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