- Height: 330m
- Pitches: 7
- Ascents: 85
- Description:© (jgoding)
Absolutely classic. Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock.
Start: Start 8m down R of Stonewall Jackson at a slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it (which is not part of the route) can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start.
45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).
30m (18) Slightly (significantly?) harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! Flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge. You should pass one piton on this pitch which will let you know you're in the right spot.
Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing'. This is a tricky belay to rig. Best use the rap rope as part of it until there's good gear in P4.
45m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognisable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance.
42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness 6 to 8 m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 8) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P6 needs to go.
42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L and sticking to a slight groove feature until you are able to set up a belay at the start of the exit gulley proper.
48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.
48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!
For historic purposes and in contrast to the above description, the original description is as follows:
50 m Slightly R to loose blocks.
20 m Up to ledge.
Down, then traverse R below orange rock.
50 m Up R on ledges.
50 m Up and slightly R.
Up, then back L past roofs to gully.
7-8) 90 m Gully.
First Ascent: Keith Bell & Ray Lassman, 1974
Located in Bluff Mountain approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
|18||★ Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles|
|18 ***||★★★ ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 91%
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