- Height: 360m
- Pitches: 12
- Ascents: 17
An amazing achievement for its time.
Original start marked with a small 'E' under large orange overhangs up high. We started a little right of here (maybe 15 meters). This description should be used in conjunction with available guidebook descriptions. I have not mentioned the carrots and pitons you may or may not see along the way. Bring lots of small gear and slings the climb zigs and zags quite alot to keep its grade. There are some topos out there that are incorrect. One shows the last pitches leading way right again under and to the otherside of the last black overhangs , follow your nose as to what looks right. Our experience on this climb was validated by the original bolts and pitons every so often. Most importantly if its not 17 (albeit old grading and sustained) you could be off route. Any abseil chains present on the wall are for another climb though there is one on one of the belays. Do not let them distract you from Elijah. Enjoy. Its a great voyage with excellent rock.
Up veering left through poor rock to belay when possible in small stance (original start possibly nicer?)
Up slightly right and around right side of large detached block, over without treading on it then back left to famous double carrot and twisted wire belay on good ledge. Most 1964 bolts are redundant with modern gear on this route.
Out left , up veering left , avoiding large ledge/cleft with corner on right. Sticking to easy terrain. Belay at piton.
Hard straight off belay up then left a bit up and veer right to ledge with Chain (another route) and original bolt.
Up veering left then belay. Approaching centre/left of major overhangs.
Up easiest line leading left though not too low. Ignore fixed gear above in orange rock. Well protected to belay bolt near leftmost side of overhangs.
The only pitch that is truly a traverse. Excellent rock. Left , down , up to nice flake and steep move up , left , down a bit, delicately left with a #3 camalot in a pod at waist height then lunge across to match hands on good positive hold. Up steep move after this and onward to belay where comfortable. Staying just right of buttress arete.
Guide says crack though more like steep jumble of blocks. very solid though. Straight up then steep improbable move straight up (good wire higher in crack than you would like to reach) on face holds to belay ledge.
A bit right then up veering left. This is one of the few pitches where leader is above belayer for considerable time (take care). Up to belay stance (bolt hidden high left).
Up and right stepping across above belay. A bit loose , then under corner. either up corner then leaving corner halfway or (suggested) taking lower more exposed right line well beneath corner (at piton?) then up , push past first ledge veering right then mantle over to very large ledge and end of wall.
Roped scrambles for rope length.
Unroped scrambles to top. Nice one.
The description from the 1994 Rock Magazine guide is as follows:
Start at highest part of face, between two buttresses.
36 m Up L past tree to bolt belay in chimney-gully.
15 m Chimney, then up R to bolt belay.
30 m Up L, then up R to ledge. R along ledge; up L to piton belay.
18 m Up L, then up to bolt. Now R to bolt belay.
4 m Up to ledge. Bolt belay.
21 m Up L to bolt belay below overhang.
18 m Up L past bolt and piton to bolt belay.
18 m Up R to bolt, then L to bolt. Overhang past piton to bolt belay.
12 m Up L. bolt belay.
30 m Down L, then up to hand-traverse L. Up L to bolt belay.
24 m Easily up L to ledge (bolt). Crack to ledge, bolt belay.
27 m Up R, then up L past piton to bolt belay. Poor pro.
21 m Up R to ledge, then up past pitons.
24 m R to easy-angled rock.
15--16) 60 m Up.
Originally climbed with one point of aid on overhang on pitch eight.
First Ascent: Bryden Allen & John ewbank, May 1964
Located in Bluff Mountain approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|17||Community registered grade|
|17||★ Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles|
Overall quality score: 87%
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