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Original start marked with a small 'E' under large orange overhangs up high. We started a little right of here (maybe 15 meters). This description should be used in conjunction with available guidebook descriptions. I have not mentioned the carrots and pitons you may or may not see along the way. Bring lots of small gear and slings the climb zigs and zags quite alot to keep its grade. There are some topos out there that are incorrect. One shows the last pitches leading way right again under and to the otherside of the last black overhangs , follow your nose as to what looks right. Our experience on this climb was validated by the original bolts and pitons every so often. Most importantly if its not 17 (albeit old grading and sustained) you could be off route. Any abseil chains present on the wall are for another climb though there is one on one of the belays. Do not let them distract you from Elijah. Enjoy. Its a great voyage with excellent rock.

  1. Up veering left through poor rock to belay when possible in small stance (original start possibly nicer?)

  2. Up slightly right and around right side of large detached block, over without treading on it then back left to famous double carrot and twisted wire belay on good ledge. Most 1964 bolts are redundant with modern gear on this route.

  3. Out left , up veering left , avoiding large ledge/cleft with corner on right. Sticking to easy terrain. Belay at piton.

  4. Hard straight off belay up then left a bit up and veer right to ledge with Chain (another route) and original bolt.

  5. Up veering left then belay. Approaching centre/left of major overhangs.

  6. Up easiest line leading left though not too low. Ignore fixed gear above in orange rock. Well protected to belay bolt near leftmost side of overhangs.

  7. The only pitch that is truly a traverse. Excellent rock. Left , down , up to nice flake and steep move up , left , down a bit, delicately left with a #3 camalot in a pod at waist height then lunge across to match hands on good positive hold. Up steep move after this and onward to belay where comfortable. Staying just right of buttress arete.

  8. Guide says crack though more like steep jumble of blocks. very solid though. Straight up then steep improbable move straight up (good wire higher in crack than you would like to reach) on face holds to belay ledge.

  9. A bit right then up veering left. This is one of the few pitches where leader is above belayer for considerable time (take care). Up to belay stance (bolt hidden high left).

  10. Up and right stepping across above belay. A bit loose , then under corner. either up corner then leaving corner halfway or (suggested) taking lower more exposed right line well beneath corner (at piton?) then up , push past first ledge veering right then mantle over to very large ledge and end of wall.

  11. Roped scrambles for rope length.

  12. Unroped scrambles to top. Nice one.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Bryden Allen & John ewbank, 1964


Located in Bluff Mountain approx:
Long/Lat: 148.977571,-31.327988

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 * Pocket RockGUIDE: The Warrumbungles

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 87%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good great superb

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