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Description

Although containing some interesting climbs, this area was originally used for training of scout climbers due to it's manageable size, easy climbs and proximity to the camping area at the end of Bangalow Rd. The rock in this area tends to be grainier than most other cliffs at Monkey Face.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 Dougal's Crack Top rope 8m

The dirty corner at the far left end of the cliff.

FA: Matthew Arnott, Doug Beverage, David Gray, Lewis Carey & Brad Munro, 1980

The track passes a steep buttress and an overhung corner, before 80m of blank wall lead to a large tree and 'Deamon'.

2
15 Deamon Top rope 9m

The knobbly flake, 80m right of Dougal's Crack.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982

3
14 Digital Display Mixed 12m, 1

Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon.

FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

4
6 Gorilla Corner Trad 9m

The slabby corner.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1982

5
6 Photogenic Mixed 10m, 1

Wall and crack leading to a diagonal line of holds right to a groove.

FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson & Dennis Baker, 1983

6
10 * Photogenic (Direct) Mixed 15m, 2

Continue directly up wall after Photogenic's bolt

FA: David Gray, Lindsay Irvine & Paul Doran, 1984

7
15 Tarzan's Grip Trad 15m

Hanging corner to an arete, carefully up the corner (peg missing) to the grainy arete.

FA: David Gray, 1982

8
4 Solo One Trad 5m

Slabby corner and left leading ramp, used as access.

FA: Alan Gray, 1979

9
7 Snake Trad 19m

Corner / flake above Solo One.

FA: Rob Wallace & David Gray, 1981

10
14 * Oxymoron Mixed 25m, 1

Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt

FA: David Gray, 1979

11
14 * Oxymoron (Direct) Mixed 25m, 1

Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981

12
14 * Menstration Day Mixed 20m, 2

Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap

FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986

13
17 * Von-Trap Trad 15m

"It's 16 going on 17". The wall at the right hand end of the overlaps, 3m right of Menstration Day.

FA: David Gray & Dave Worthington, 1989

14
15 Ejaculation Point Mixed 20m, 2

Up wall past a slot & 2 bolts, 5m right of 'Von-Trap'.

FA: James Cowmeadow & Ian Adair

Activity

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