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Description

Although containing some interesting climbs, this area was originally used for training of scout climbers due to it's manageable size, easy climbs and proximity to the camping area at the end of Bangalow Rd. The rock in this area tends to be grainier than most other cliffs at Monkey Face.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

The dirty corner at the far left end of the cliff.

FA: Matthew Arnott, Doug Beverage, David Gray, Lewis Carey & Brad Munro, 1980

The track passes a steep buttress and an overhung corner, before 80m of blank wall lead to a large tree and 'Deamon'.

The knobbly flake, 80m right of Dougal's Crack.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982

Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon.

FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

The slabby corner.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1982

Wall and crack leading to a diagonal line of holds right to a groove.

FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson & Dennis Baker, 1983

Continue directly up wall after Photogenic's bolt

FA: David Gray, Lindsay Irvine & Paul Doran, 1984

Hanging corner to an arete, carefully up the corner (peg missing) to the grainy arete.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Slabby corner and left leading ramp, used as access.

FA: Alan Gray, 1979

Corner / flake above Solo One.

FA: Rob Wallace & David Gray, 1981

Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt

FA: David Gray, 1979

Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981

Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap

FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986

"It's 16 going on 17". The wall at the right hand end of the overlaps, 3m right of Menstration Day.

FA: David Gray & Dave Worthington, 1989

Up wall past a slot & 2 bolts, 5m right of 'Von-Trap'.

FA: James Cowmeadow & Ian Adair

Activity

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