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This is the first section of cliff you meet when walking south from the Gap Creek Falls car park. It is characterised by the Joe's climb roof on the left and a smooth cracked wall on the right. Be warned that it is a favourite haunt of abseilers.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.


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Short open book corner, from ledge at left hand end of cliff

FA: David Gray (solo), 1983

Short wall, left through the roof then corner.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Exit right at Septic's roof.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

Start on ledge just left of arete, climb the overhanging wall past 2 bolts.

FA: George Feig

The thin friable wall 3m right of arete past 2 bolts and a letterbox type hole.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1987

The thin friable wall just right of Blank Sabbath.

FA: George Feig & Mark Foster, 1990

Crank the wall left of Joe's Climb past 2 bolts to the roof then traverse left to follow a crack to the top

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1986

Climb 'A Void' to the roof, clip the third bolt over the roof, then climb the wall left of the bolt to belay as for Joe’s Climb.

FA: Paul Riviere, David Gray, John Wilde & Jim Gilbert, 1990

Follow "A Void" to the roof then continue through roof just right of a bolt.

FA: 23M0 David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1988

FFA: John Wilde, 1992

The thin crack leading to a roof and hanging chimney. This was the hardest climb in the Hunter Valley for some time in the late 70's and early '80s. Climb the crack and swing into the roof/chimney which is followed to a double ring bolt belay, right of the tree.

FA: Joe Friend & Ben Ewald, 1978

Joe’s Climb is followed to the roof, from where a short traverse right brings the lip of the roof and a bolt to hand. Lunge through the roof via a flake to finish at the tree belay of Joe’s Climb or continue directly up the wall above passing a bolt.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1986

Clip Dynamo's bolt then lunge the roof from the right hand side.

FA: John Wilde, 1987

A long traverse from the start of Once is Enough leads to the roof of Joe's Climb

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

Starts at the weakness 10m right of "Joe's Climb", moves up and traverses above the roof to the left.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1983

Climb the corner system at the left end of Turkey Wall. Climb 'Once is Enough' to the base of it's V groove then move left to stem the prominent corner

FA: David Gray, Mike Moore & John Wilde, Sep 2012

A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux.

FA: Andrew Martin, David Gray & Warwick Kemble, 1982

The centre of the wall right of the “Once is Enough” chimney contains Quasimodo. Climb the cracks to a horizontal break and overlap, which is surmounted, past a bolt to gain a wide ledge. 2 bolts and a hard move lead to jugs at the small roof. A final bolt leads to double rings.

FA: 24M0 David Gray & James Cowmeadow, 1984

FFA: John Wilde, 1987

A classic wall, thin crack to rooflet and awkward mantle finish. DRB lower off.

FA: David Gray & Craig Martin, 1984

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

FA: George Fieg, David Gray & John Wilde, 1991

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1992

The finger crack 4m left of the right arete of Turkey Walls. Climb the wall and intermittent cracks (wires for protection) then launch up the superb finger crack. DRB lower off.

FA: 16M1 David Gray, Alan Martin & Warwick Kemble, 1981

FFA: David Gray, 1983

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

FA: George Fieg, John Wilde & David Gray, 1991

A classic smear problem up the blunt arete. Thin brackets are needed for the bolts and care is required getting to the first bolt.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1986


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