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Description

This is the first section of cliff you meet when walking south from the Gap Creek Falls car park. It is characterised by the Joe's climb roof on the left and a smooth cracked wall on the right. Be warned that it is a favourite haunt of abseilers.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 Book Work Trad 7m

Short open book corner, from ledge at left hand end of cliff

FA: David Gray (solo), 1983

2
11 Septic Trad 15m
3
10 Septic (Variant) Unknown 6m
4
23 Trusting Pebbles Unknown 6m
5
22 Black Sabbath Unknown 15m
6
24 Schnell Fenster Unknown 15m
7
20 A Void Mixed 18m, 2

Crank the wall left of Joe's Climb past 2 bolts to the roof then traverse left to follow a crack to the top

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, 1986

8
22 Theft from a Minor Unknown 15m
9
24 Joe's Crime Mixed 15m, 3

Follow "A Void" to the roof then continue through roof just right of a bolt.

FA: 23M0 David Gray, Darrin Gray, 1988

FFA: John Wilde, 1992

10
21 ** Joe's Climb Trad 21m

The thin crack leading to a roof and hanging chimney. This was the hardest climb in the Hunter Valley for some time in the late 70's and early '80s. Climb the crack and swing into the roof/chimney which is followed to a double ring bolt belay, right of the tree.

FA: Joe Friend, Ben Ewald, 1978

11
23 Dynamo Trad 15m
12
22 Dynamo (Variant) Trad 16m
13
21 Sanity Void Unknown 20m
14
10 Tennis Traverse Trad 20m

Starts at the weakness 10m right of Joe's Climb, moves up and traverses above the roof to the left.

FA: David Gray, Dan Rodgers, 1983

15
21 Once is too much Trad 15m

Climb the corner system at the left end of Turkey Wall. Climb Once is Enough to the base of it's V groove then move left to stem the prominent corner

FA: David Gray, Mike Moore, John Wilde, 2012

16
14 Once is Enough Trad 20m

A start in the vaugue corner right of Joe’s Climb leads to the obvious chimney, the exit from which and final wall constituting the crux

FA: Andrew Martin, David Gray, Warwick Kemble, 1982

17
24 ** Quasimodo Mixed 18m, 4

The centre of the wall right of the “Once is Enough” chimney contains Quasimodo. Climb the cracks to a horizontal break and overlap, which is surmounted, past a bolt to gain a wide ledge. 2 bolts and a hard move lead to jugs at the small roof. A final bolt leads to double rings.

FA: 24M0 David Gray, James Cowmeadow, 1984

FFA: John Wilde, 1987

18
19 ** Bereska Mixed 18m, 1

A classic wall, thin crack and roof

FA: David Gray, Craig Martin, 1984

19

Very thin climbing up a blank section of wall. Leave Bereska at half height and climb the thin right wall past 2 bolts

FA: George Fieg, David Gray, John Wilde, 1991

20
26 ** Killer Clowns (Direct) Mixed 14m, 3

An easy bold start, leads to the crux of Killer Clowns from Outer Space

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, 1992

21
21 *** Profanity Trad 14m

The finger crack 4m left of the right arete of Turkey Walls. Climb the wall and intermittent cracks (wires for protection) then launch up the superb finger crack.

FA: 16M1 David Gray, Alan Martin, Warwick Kemble, 1981

FFA: David Gray, 1983

22
26 Wayne's World Sport 12m, 4

Visionary bolting by “The Waynes” has, via strong attempts by Paul Riviere and George Fieg, resulted in a very hard wall climb past badly positioned bolts. The placement of a ring bolt has made the climb much safer though no easier!

FA: George Fieg, John Wilde, David Gray, 1991