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Central Gully

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Description

Some excellent routes are squeezed in here on the sides of the access gully.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

Approach

This is the central access route from the base of cliffs to the top of Big Banana Buttress. From the walking track between the upper car parks, head down a ridge line (no trail sign erected to limit tourist access) to the top of the Big Banana Buttress, then zigzag down the south side of the gully.

Ethic inherited from Monkey Face

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Climb cracks and corner system right of "Turquosine" which is on the left side of the "Central Gully" (ie opposite side to "Chutney"). Used for many years as a training route for scouts. NB it is not where it's shown in "Newcastle & Hunter Valley Rockclimbing 2013" (which is Easy's Arete, harder and less protected).

FA: Paul Smith, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1980

Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial"

FA: TR, Ian Hardon & David Gray, 1979

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Climb the centre of the wall past 3 carrots, outflanking the overhang on the left.

FFA: Steve Mitchell & Ian hardon, 1980

FA: TR: David Gray & Owen Bull, 1980

Climb "Centennial" to beneath the summit block, then continue up the right side of the arête, past a final bolt.

FA: David Gray, 1982

Solo the bouldery wall between Centennial and Chutney, stepping right into Chutney below the summit block.

FA: David Gray (solo), 1984

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

FA: Joe Friend & Lindsay Irvine, 1978

Start up Chutney until the lowest traverse line can be taken to the centre of the right wall. Climb the wall with pockets for protection.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1985

Follow 'Fragile' but traverse to the arete, where chimneying between the arete and tree allows progress to continue.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1983

Traverse right from the Chutney tree to finish up a groove just left of the RS cave.

FA: David Gray, Dan Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1982

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

FA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1988

Climbs the undercut, honeycombed corner right of Jacob's Ladder continuing to the left of the large windblown cave.

FA: Bruce Simpson, 1984

The wall and groove left of RS, finishing up Weetbix.

FA: George Fieg, 1989

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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