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Description

This is the central access route from the base of cliffs to the top of Big Banana Buttress. From the walking track between the upper car parks, head down a ridge line (no trail sign erected to limit tourist access) to the top of the Big Banana Buttress, then zigzag down the south side of the gully.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
10 Animal Trail Trad 15m

Climb cracks and corner system right of "Turquosine" which is on the left side of the "Central Gully" (ie opposite side to "Chutney"). Used for many years as a training route for scouts. NB it is not where it's shown in "Newcastle & Hunter Valley Rockclimbing 2013" (which is Easy's Arete, harder and less protected).

FA: Paul Smith, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1980

2
14 Easy's Hangover Trad 9m

Boulder up the arete with no gear until half height, to join "Centennial"

FA: TR, Ian Hardon & David Gray, 1979

FFA: David Gray, 1982

3
13 * Centennial Mixed 9m, 3

Climb the centre of the wall past 3 carrots, outflanking the overhang on the left.

FFA: Steve Mitchell & Ian hardon, 1980

FA: TR: David Gray & Owen Bull, 1980

4

Climb "Centennial" to beneath the summit block, then continue up the right side of the arête, past a final bolt.

FA: David Gray, 1982

5
16 * Electric Chicken Trad 9m

Solo the bouldery wall between Centennial and Chutney, stepping right into Chutney below the summit block.

FA: David Gray (solo), 1984

6
12 * Chutney Trad 13m

The obvious corner with a tree root at half height. Named after a repeat ascent by David Pickles.

FA: Joe Friend & Lindsay Irvine, 1978

7
16 * Fragile Trad 16m

Start up Chutney until the lowest traverse line can be taken to the centre of the right wall. Climb the wall with pockets for protection.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1985

8
12 Horticultural High Trad 30m

Follow 'Fragile' but traverse to the arete, where chimneying between the arete and tree allows progress to continue.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1983

9
10 Scrunch Traverse Trad 20m

Traverse right from the Chutney tree to finish up a groove just left of the RS cave.

FA: David Gray, Dan Ewald & Dan Rodgers, 1982

10
26 * Jacob's Ladder Sport 20m, 4

Clip the first bolt with a stick, then follow the hanging arete to join Horticultural High

FA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1988

11
15 Weetbix Trad 35m

Climbs the undercut, honeycombed corner right of Jacob's Ladder continuing to the left of the large windblown cave.

FA: Bruce Simpson, 1984

12
16 Scoop Mixed 45m, 3

The wall and groove left of RS, finishing up Weetbix.

FA: George Fieg, 1989

Activity

Check out what is happening in Central Gully.