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Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

Big Banana Buttress

Big Banana Buttress is the tallest section of Monkey Face offering a number of multi-pitch routes.

1
18 * R.S. Trad 45m 3

The striking corner on the centre left of the Big Banana Buttress.

  1. 18 Up overhanging corner to belay in groove where angle eases.

  2. Easy bridging to windblown cave with UB belay.

  3. Up wide roof crack and corner to belay off tree.

Best if pitch 1 and 2 are combined or done as one monster pitch saving small cams till the end.

FA: TR - Ben Ewald, 1978

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers (alt), 1982

2
19 Interlude Trad 10m

Climb RS for a few metres then lunge right, across the hanging wall to a wide break, and join Apple Arete near it's first belay.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1985

3
18 ** Apple Arete Mixed 30m, 3

Climb the right arete of RS for a few metres then swing right to belay. Step back left and climb the arete past 2 bolts, then follow the groove to a pedestal belay on the left. Abseil off.

FA: John Wilde & Dave Gray, 1983

4
18 ** Dire Straits Trad 15m

Starts at Apple Arete belay chains then moves left and up arete past 5 UB to belay on top of the Big Banana.

FA: Chris Crane, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1984

5

From the Big Banana belay, step right into the groove, surmount block and continue left, up indifferent rock past 2 bolts to a roof. Surmount roof and on to next roof passing 2 more bolts, then a further bolt leads to the RS belay.

FA: David Gray, 1993

6
16 * Big Bananna Mixed 20m, 1

From the top of 5 Finger Exercise, traverse left to climb the thin corner, followed by a groove to the a double bolt belay on a pedestal.

FA: David Gray, 1982

7
22 ** Shades (Direct) Mixed 17m, 5

Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright.

FA: David Gray & Merv Liddel, 1987

8
24 ** New Horizons Sport 12m, 4

Start at ground level, on wall between Apple Arete and Shick. Up to roof, swing right to a bolt, then climb the blank wall trending back left, past 5 bolts to DBB. Retro bolted by FA in 2016

FA: David Gray & Alan Gray, 1994

9
18 ** Sharp End Sport 11m

Starts from the Stopper Cave at UB belay. Climb out of cave then up the face and left past 3 UB

FA: David Gray, John Wilde & Dan Rodgers, 1983

10
18 * Rapsailers Sport 12m, 5

Start as for 'Sharp End' but head left and up arete after first bolt

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1993

11
22 ** The Future's so Bright Mixed 15m, 3

A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, Darrin Gray & Jimmy Gilbert, 1986

The Extremes

The short wall just past Big Banana Buttress

12
13 Shick Trad 18m

"A close shave", climb the juggy arete right of New Horizons, traversing left above a friend break to easier ground. Exit to the terrace.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers, 1982

13
18 Save the Orchids Sport 16m, 3

Climb the arete right of Shick, thin move past a bolt, continue up the arete past 2 bolts to tree belay.

FA: Paul Riviere & John Wilde, 1990

14
22 ** Two Finger Exercise Mixed 12m, 2

Boulder the wall to a bolt and mantle then continue via a second bolt and thin crack.

FA: John Wilde & James Cowmeadow, 1985

15
23 Three Finger Exercise Sport 12m, 4

The line of bolts just left of five fingers

FA: TR David Gray, 1984

FA: Wayne Anderson & Wayne Gibbs, 1991

16
14 * Five Finger Exercise Mixed 14m, 1

You used to able to bridge up the tree but it's a bit harder now that the tree is dead. Move up then move left past a bolt and flake to a pocketed traverse line. Step right to a large flake, which is followed to a groove and wall to finish at the large tree.

FA: David Gray & Martin Cook, 1982

17
12 Five Fingers Mixed 14m, 1

At the Five Finger Exercise traverse, move left to a ramp system, which is followed to rejoin FFE.

FA: David Gray, 1982

18
18 Longreach Crack Trad 12m

The cracked arete just right of 'Five Fingers'.

19
14 Plebe's Plummet Mixed 12m, 1

Wall past a bolt.

FA: Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1984

20
16 Wall to Thin Crack Trad 10m

Boulder the wall then continue above the break with a thin crack for protection.

21
14 M1 Alpinist's Dream Aid 9m

"don't bother, the only aid climbs on the cliff and subsequent ascents will only leave scars" The first peg crack.

FA: Robert Stow & David Gray, 1982

22
14 M1 Yosemite Aid 9m

The other worthless peg crack.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

23
15 Digital Extraction Mixed 6m, 1

The flake at the right end of the wall with an optional bolt out right on the wall.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

Activity

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