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Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

Big Banana Buttress

Big Banana Buttress is the tallest section of Monkey Face offering a number of multi-pitch routes.

1
18 * R.S. Trad 45m 3

The striking corner on the centre left of the Big Banana Buttress.

  1. 18 Up overhanging corner to belay in groove where angle eases.

  2. Easy bridging to windblown cave with UB belay.

  3. Up wide roof crack and corner to belay off tree.

Best if pitch 1 and 2 are combined or done as one monster pitch saving small cams till the end.

FA: TR - Ben Ewald, 1978

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers (alt), 1982

2
19 Interlude Unknown 10m
3
18 ** Apple Arete Mixed 30m, 3

FA: John Wilde & Dave Gray, 1983

4
18 ** Dire Straits Trad 15m

Starts at Apple Arete belay chains then moves left and up arete past 5 UB to belay on top of the Big Banana.

FA: Chris Crane, David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1984

5

From the Big Banana belay, step right into the groove, surmount block and continue left, up indifferent rock past 2 bolts to a roof. Surmount roof and on to next roof passing 2 more bolts, then a further bolt leads to the RS belay.

FA: David Gray, 1993

6
16 * Big Bananna Mixed 20m, 1
7
22 ** Shades (Direct) Mixed 17m, 5

Climb the orange wall past a bolt left of the left arete of Stopper, to join The Future's So Bright.

FA: David Gray & Merv Liddel, 1987

8
24 ** New Horizons Sport 12m, 4

Start at ground level, on wall between Apple Arete and Shick. Up to roof, swing right to a bolt, then climb the blank wall trending back left, past 5 bolts to DBB. Retro bolted by FA in 2016

FA: David Gray & Alan Gray, 1994

9
18 ** Sharp End Sport 11m

Starts from the Stopper Cave at UB belay. Climb out of cave then up the face and left past 3 UB

FA: David Gray, John Wilde & Dan Rodgers, 1983

10
18 * Rapseilers Sport 12m, 5

Start as for 'Sharp End' but head left and up arete after first bolt

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1993

11
22 ** The Future's so Bright Mixed 15m, 3

A low level traverse across the left wall of Stopper leads past the arete to horizontal breaks, from here, the wall above is climbed direct past 2 bolts to an exit crack and bolt belay

FA: David Gray, John Wilde, Darrin Gray & Jimmy Gilbert, 1986

The Extremes

The short wall just past Big Banana Buttress

12
13 Shick Trad 18m
13
18 Save the Orchids Sport 16m, 3

FA: Paul Riviere & John Wilde, 1990

14
22 ** Two Finger Exercise Mixed 12m, 2
15
23 Three Finger Exercise Sport 12m, 4

The line of bolts just left of five fingers

FA: TR David Gray, 1984

FA: Wayne Anderson & Wayne Gibbs, 1991

16
17
12 Five Fingers Unknown 14m

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