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Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.


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Grade Route
24 * Bazzle Brush Mixed 15m, 2

Climb the left arete of the first pitch of 'Stopper' past 2 bolts to belay in the stopper cave at UB belay.

FA: John Wilde, 1992

13 Muska Trad 16m

From the start of 'Stopper' traverse diagonally left to the arete then up.

13 * Stopper Trad 35m, 2

Climb the corner and large flake on the right of the Big Banana Buttress from the terrace, to a cave / ledge with a double bolt and chain abseil point. Continue up the offwidth corner, stepping left to belay

FA: 2: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980

FA: 1: Wayne Hughes, David Gray, Brian Davidson & Owen Bull, 1980

11 * Stopper (Direct) Trad 35m

Alternate 1st pitch of Stopper, climbing the corner direct, rather than the flake on the right.

FA: David Gray, Rob Gregory & Steve Farington, 1982


Boulder the wall 3m right of the first pitch of Stopper, traversing left to the Stopper chain.

FA: David Gray, 1985

19 Clear and present danger Sport 15m, 5

Step right from the belay ledge at the top of Stoppers first pitch, then follow bolts up a fragile wall to DRBs

Set by Vanessa Wills

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013

24 * Speak Easy Sport 6m, 3

Straight up the middle of the left wall of the last pitch of Stopper

FA: Paul Reviere & John Wilde, 1989

21 * Ghetto Blaster Sport 7m, 3

Climb the upper left wall of Stopper, diagonally left, passing 3 ring bolts, to finish near the arête.

FA: David Gray, Bruce Donaldson, Paul Smith & Chris Crane, 1983

23 *** Weena Mixed 30m, 2

The buldging wall and seam right of Stopper, past 2 FHs to DRB. Small nuts and RPs and cams. A true test piece of trad climing which defied strong lead attempts for 4 years until it went free. Originally had only 1 BR until repeated falls onto a #2 nut destroyed the placement

FA: 16M2 : David Gray & Rob Stow, 1983

FFA: John Wilde, 1987

23 * Reptile Park Sport 30m, 5

Climb the wall right of Weena past 5 ring bolts.

FA: John Wilde, 1987


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