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Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
11 Inertia Trad 20m

The overhung corner start leads to an easier angled continuation to a tree belay. Either abseil off tree or carefully climb the easy corner to walk off left along the terrace above the Smear Slabs.

FA: 1978

2
21 Frame of Reference Mixed 20m, 1

A contrived line, the bolt was for the obvious start through the roof, which is yet to be completed. Climb Inertia to the lip, then traverse the lip, to the bolt, where a hard move gets you established on the slab. Climb the slab / wall above using side runners in Inertia where required.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1991

3
16 Apocalypse Arete Trad 26m

Swing left from the base of Apocalypse and climb it's left arete.

FA: David Gray, 1986

4
15 Apocalypse Trad 16m

The wide crack left of the diagonal block.

FA: Dan Rodgers & Ben Ewald, 1980

5
17 Plagiarism Blues Trad 25m

Follow Apocalypse to the roof then the diagonal line beneath the block

FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rodgers, 1981

6

FA: John Wilde & George Feig, 1988

7
17 Garbage Blaster Trad 26m

The scooped weakness right of 'Apocalypse' , finishing at the end of the 'Plagiarism Blues' diagonal.

FA: John Wilde, 1984

8
22 Waynes Route Mixed 25m, 4

Climb the orange wall just left of the large cave past 3 bolts to a #1 friend break below the roof. A steep reach past a final bolt leads to a large ledge. Continue over mixed ground to a tree belay.

FA: Wayne Anderson

9
10 * Vascolomys Wambach Trad 20m

The corner, after negotiating the lip of the cave.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1981

10
7 Small Fry Trad 20m

Chimney up through the cave to join 'Vascolomys Wambach' at half height.

FA: Michael Gray, 1981

11
12 Buzzed Out Trad 28m

Start at the right hand end of the triangular cave, climbing the wall right of the crack to meet the break (traverse line). Move right to the arete and continue airily to a tree belay.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1982

12
10 Adrenaline Wall Trad 25m

As for Buzzed Out to the break then continue up the short crack and wall directly.

FA: David Gray, 1980

13
21 * Strapadictomy Mixed 25m, 3

Clip fixed hanger right of cave, move up and right past a second bolt then straight up past a final bolt and roof to tree belay.

FA: David Gray & Paul Riviere, 1986

14
24 Easy Meat Mixed 25m, 5

Traverse carefully from the left to clip a bolt then continue with difficulty up the arete.

FA: George Feig & John Wilde, 1991

15
22 Taipan Wall Mixed 25m, 4

Climbs the left hand side of the wall right of Easy Meet, slinging the dick near top of wall + #4 friend.

FA: John Wilde

16
21 Eastern Brown Mixed 25m, 3

The wall and flake in the centre of the wall.

FA: John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1988

17
18 * Red-Belly Black Flake Mixed 25m, 2

Pocketed wall then the right hand flake / corner, just left of the corner of 'Terminally in Traction'.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1985

18

Classic right facing corner .

FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rodgers, 1980

19
12 Neos Dydimos Trad 14m

The right hand line of the square cut groove.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1981

20
7 Idiot Solo Trad 8m

FA: Darrin Gray, 1982

21
13 Pseudo Trad 6m

FA: David Gray, 1983

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