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Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 Puberty is Over Mixed 5m, 1

Boulder buttress between Lacolite Onion & Daniel’s Climb past 1 bolt.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1987

2

Buttress past 1 bolt.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1987

3
17 * Daniel's Climb Mixed 6m, 2

On the left arete of the 'Sex is an Advantage' block, Iron stone streaks past 2 bolts.

FA: Daniel Wilde & John Wilde, 1985

4
17 * Sex is an Advantage Mixed 6m, 2

Arete past 2 bolts.

FA: James Cowmeadow & John Wilde, 1985

5
23 Nuttin' at All Trad 7m

Climb the sickle crack and wall to finish.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

FFA: Paul Riviere, 1990

6
18 * Now'tn Much Sport 7m, 2

Two bolts and an interesting mantle shelf move, lead up the curving arete.

FA: John Wilde & James Cowmeadow, 1985

7
25 ** Thieving Pommie Bastard Mixed 10m, 2

Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot

FA: John Wilde, David Gray, George Feig & Jim Gilbert, 1988

8
19 ** Drop Pilot Mixed 10m, 2

Climb the right side of the arete past 2 BR to a very bold finish via a seam on the arete. Has been rebolted. Sling tree to finish.

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1983

9
12 Escape Corner Trad 10m

The chimney / corner right of Drop the Pilot.

FA: David Gray (solo), 1981

10

The obvious steep crack, 2m right of Escape Corner past several welcome holes.

FA: 15M1 Dave Gray, 1980

FFA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers, 1983

11
23 ** Progressive Taxation Mixed 14m, 4

Sustained climbing starts at 'From Here to Eternity' then traverses right at half height then up on thin edges to very balancy crux, up to chains.

FFA: David Gray, 1984

FA: 22M0 David Gray, John Wilde, Dan Rodgers & Chris Crane, 1984

12

Climb the right hand crack, from where a lower level traverse line leads past a bolt to the crux of Progressive Taxation.

13

A hard friable overhung start to Progressive Taxation. A difficult bridging start to surmount the overhang leads to a sustained wall, joining Progressive Taxation at it’s crux.

FA: John Wilde & George Fieg, 1990

14
23 ** Feeling the Pinch Sport 14m, 2

Bouldery start to a UB then a big move to "feel the pinch" before continuing up the wall past FH in hole and cam break at roof. Traverse right to UB lower off.

FA: John Wilde

15
20 * So Mixed 12m, 1

Follow the shattered crack above the sentry box, past a ring to lower off.

FA: Alan Gray

16
23 * Chook's Reach Mixed 12m, 2

Climb the wall right of 'So' past 2 bolts to a long reach over a roof. Shared lower off with 'So'.

FA: Dave Fowler & Dave Britain, 1992

17
9 EZ Trad 7m

A good introductory laybacking up the left side of the pillar to a tree. Exit from the left side of the cave.

FA: Paul Smith (solo), 1981

18
14 EZ Arete Sport 7m, 2

The arete of the pillar right of 'So'.

FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1983

19
6 EZ Variant Sport 7m

Easy crack just right of EZ arete.

FA: Dave Gray (solo), 1981

20
10 EZ PZ Trad 7m

Up the root infested crack to a lower off root.

FA: Adrian Kladnig, 2016

21
17 EZ Hexs Mixed 7m, 2

The first climb you hit on the walk up the track from Monkey Face campground. Crimp hard up the blunt arete past 2 carrots, then bush bash your way to the lower off tree.

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