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Description

Some of the best rock on the cliff can be found on this compact crag. Middle Crag is the section of fine grained rock, above Lower Crag and features the square cut "Colour Card Wall".

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The fragile wall at the far left hand edge of Middle Crag is climbed past bolts to a bolt belay

FA: John Wilde, 1987

2
22 Prickles Sport 12m, 5

Follow RBs 2m R of arete straight up to balancy move at anchors

FA: D Gray & V WIlls, 2013

3
Project Sport 13m

Start up 'Prickles' but move right via extra bolt to finish on anchors of 'Marmite'

4
20 Marmite Sport 12m, 5

Start 2m left of Vengeance, following RBs through pockets to flake then up overhang

FA: V Wills & D Gray, 2013

5
15 * Vengeance Trad 12m

A thin crack in the back of a flare, widening to fingers. Head right at top when the vegetation gets too much. Belay as for Vengemite.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

6
9 Commin' at Ya Trad 12m

A straight forward corner 1m right of Vengeance.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

7
18 ** Vengemite Sport 12m, 6

Wall and groove right of Vengeance with 4 rings to double ring bolt belay.

FA: Dave Gray & Vanessa Wills, 2013

8

Start directly up wall for grade passing 2 rusty carrots to finish on new anchors. A good one to top rope after doing Vengemite. Grade 15 in MF grading if you come in from crack.

FA: Unknown

9
7 Bombardment Trad 12m

Climb the bottomless corner 10m right of Commin’ At Ya.

FA: David Gray & Jenny Anderson, 1982

10
14 Bat's Wing Trad 10m

Climb the left wall of Pickle's Retreat.

FA: David Gray, 1985

11
14 to 15 Pickle's Retreat Trad 10m

Up the finger crack, past pod, to tree belay.

FA: Steve Mitchell & Ian Hardon, 1982

12
21 Tin Gods Mixed 10m, 1

Boulder the wall between Pickle's Retreat and Grunt 'n' Shove past a bolt.

FA: George Feig & Dave Fowler, 1991

13
14 Grunt 'n' Shove Trad 14m

The awkward and obvious chimney.

FA: Bob McBride, Jenny Anderson & Michael Fordham, 1982

14
17 ** 316 Sport 15m

Nice moves up arete 3m left of Follow the Leader. 3 U bolts + UB lower off

FA: Trent Lee & Clint Siggins

15
18 * Follow the Leader Sport 15m

Originally done as top rope only but has recently been bolted, however you could easily deck before the second bolt gets clipped. Place a long sling on second bolt when lowering off route to left, or stick clip

FFA: Trent Lee & Clint Siggins

FA: top rope -Robert Stow & David Gray, 1982

16
21 Overhung Arete Trad 15m

Swing up the overhang climbing the left side of the arete to finish.

FA: John Wilde, 1986

17
17 Snow White Trad 10m

The steep wall, slinging a flake/jug enroute (heavy biner to keep it there).

FA: John Wilde & David Gray, 1984

18
15 Brand X Trad 13m

Climb the short offwidth crack.

FA: Robert Stow & Martin Cook, 1983

19
20 * Jonas' arete Sport 12m, 6

Start up line of hex bolts (plus 2FHs) just right of arete on Crimson and Clover wall. A mall cam in letterbox slot protects start. Straight up wall with tricky finish. Belay off tree

FA: Jonas, 2003

20
14 * Crimson & Clover Trad 14m

A climb that brings you back to earth. Climb the diagonal crack 4m right of Brand X to the horizontal break. Traverse right to the corner!

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

21
16 * Crimson Tinge Mixed 15m, 1

Boulder the wall right of 'Crimson & Clover' past a bolt then trend left to finish up the wall.

FA: David Gray, 1983

22

The short corner between 'Crimson & Clover' and Visage.

FA: David Gray, 1981

23
10 Significance Trad 5m

The crack, just right of Marginal Existence.

FA: David Gray, 1983

24
17 * Visage Mixed 9m, 1

The pleasant slab, past a fixed hanger to a tree belay.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1984

25
20 * Double Blank Mixed 9m, 1

The right hand route up the slab. Carefully up to the bolt, then directly to the tree belay.

FA: John Wilde, Dan Rodgers, Robert Stow & David Gray, 1983

26
11 * Arete-Sted Trad 11m

Carefully climb the right hand arete of the Double Blank Slab, using either side of the arete.

FA: David Gray, 1983

27
6 Kryptos Trad 11m

The easy angled corner system, immediately left of the Colour Card wall

FA: David Gray (solo), 1981

28
13 Cryptic Crossing Trad 14m

After the initial corner of Kryptos,, climb diagonally right to finish up I'd Rather be Canoeing.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1984

29
20 Krypton Factor Mixed 15m, 1

Supersedes 'Cryptic Crossing' by climbing the narrow wall between Kryptos and I'd Rather be Canoeing, past a bolt, to finish on the arete.

FA: John Wilde

30

A good line. The arete right of Kryptos is approached from the right and climbed past nut and friend runners to a double bolt belay

FA: TR: David Gray, Bob McBride, MC, Rob Stow & MF, 1982

FFA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

31
14 ** Wall of Horrors Trad 14m

A companion route to I'd Rather be Canoeing, starting a metre right and heading directly up the wall, with sparce protection, trending toward the arete to finish.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1983

32
20 ** Colour Card Mixed 16m, 2

Originally graded 20 but crux holds have eroded from edges to slopers so its more like a 21

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

33
23 ** Colour Card (Direct) Mixed 14m, 2

A hard variant. From the first bolt on Colour Card (clipping the second is advisable), step right the lurch up the thin wall directly (slopes and underclings)

FA: John Wilde & Paul Reviere, 1989

34
18 * Colourfast Mixed 14m, 2

Start as for 'Colour Card' up the wall to clip its first bolt then traverse left to arete to meet "I'd Rather be Canoeing". (the whimps variant to colour card)

35
20 ** Asparagus Mixed 14m, 2

Climb the Marmalade crack, then continue up the arete above, past a bolt to a mantle finish, protected by a bolt, on the ledge.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers, 1985

36
11 Marmalade Trad 12m

"A different sort of Jamb" Take the prominent diagonal crack, right of Colour Card, then finish diagonally rightwards across the overlap to a tree belay.

FA: David Gray, 1982

37
12 Empty Garden Trad 10m

Ascends the seam, a metre or so right of Marmalade, then takes the obvious crack /corner finish.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

38
17 * Wroof Variant Mixed 10m, 1

Start 1m left of '3rd Runner' corner to roof, and straight up arête past bolt to tree

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

39
13 ** 3rd Runner Trad 8m

Good laybacking up the corner.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1983

40
19 Int-Arete-Sting Mixed 6m, 1

Steep layaways up the left side of the knife edged arete.

FA: David Gray & John Wilde, 1983

41
4 Little One Trad 6m

The access chimney behind the block.

FA: David Gray, 1980

42
17 Static Dynamic Sport 6m, 1

Climb the square cut arete behind the tree, a metre right of Little One past a bolt.

FA: David Gray & James Cowmeadow, 1984

43
12 ** Science Fiction Trad 9m

Flake and crack system 3m right of Static Dynamic, stepping right at the fig root.

FA: David Gray (solo), 1983

44
19 ** Fine Time Mixed 12m, 2

Classic wall/slab. Start just left of the corner (Orchward), 2m right of Science Fiction. Balance climbing leads past 2 small diameter bolts to a horizontal break. Move left onto the bulge for the better finish.

FA: David Gray & Rob Stowe, 1983

45
8 Orchward Trad 9m

Gully & chimney immediately right of Fine Time.

FA: Paul Smith, 1981

46
9 Napotiliano Trad 9m

Start as for Orchward, then traverse right at 4m to the arete and up to a bolt belay.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

47
16 Napotiliano (Direct) Mixed 9m, 1

The Napotiliano Arete from the ground, passing a bolt.

FA: David Gray, 1983

48
10 Minder Binder Trad 0m

Start on the right of the orange scoop, 4m right of 'Napotiliano', stepping right at the roof to finish up 'Napotiliano'.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

49
11 Cosmic Corgi Trad 10m

"A right royal route". Start at the short corner 7m right of 'Minder Binder'.

FA: David Gray, 1983

50
10 Ejection Trad 10m

Climb the twin cracks 8m right of Cosmic Corgi.

FA: Robert Stow & Martin Cook, 1982

51
2 B.H.P. Via ferrata 5m

The access corner with chipped holds, bolts and chains.

52
13 Pot Holed Trad 13m

The overhung right facing corner 10m right of BHP. Climb the holes to step left at the roof.

FA: David Gray, 1983

53
11 Rash Trad 12m

The left facing corner, 3m right of Pot Holed.

FA: David Gray, 1983

Activity

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