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Description

The crag above Middle Crag, featuring thin iron stone banding and snake inhabited cracks.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
7 Obscurity Trad 7m

The short wall at the far left end of the cliff.

FA: David Gray, 1983

2
14 Happy Heart Attack Trad 20m

10m right of Obscurity at the bottomless right sweeping cracks. Climb the cracks being careful of loose rock on exit.

FA: David Gray, Bruce Donaldson & Paul Marshall, 1983

3
13 A Day Trad 20m

Arete and wall right of 'Happy Heart Attack' approached from the left leading ramp.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1984

4
23 Stravinsky Mixed 20m, 2

The very thin wall past 2 bolts 4m right of Happy Heart Attack.

FA: David Gray, 1986

5
14 Jenny's Corner Trad 18m

The orange corner behind the tree 3m right of Stravinsky.

FA: [John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1984

6
15 Jim Trad 23m

Climb the arete, 4m right of Stravinsky to the large ledge, then the corner to the right. Bold!

FA: John Wilde, 1983

7
14 * Sauntaren Trad 24m

Has been very poorly retro bolted. Do yourself a favour and dont clip them, there is enough pro without them.

FA: Alan Gray & John Wilde

8
14 * Bonnie Trad 23m

The classic open book thin crack. NB since 1980 if the snake hasn't been seen its been felt. (it was seen in september 2003 and was approx 5ft long)

FA: Dave Pickles

9
16 Glen Trad 23m

Swing up the crack 1.5m right of Bonnie then continue straight up the wall where the crack veers left into Bonnie.

FA: Dan Rodgers & David Gray, 1983

10
14 Perpetual Poet Trad 24m

Start at the cracked groove 8m right of Glen. Climb the groove for a metre or so before boldly climbing the left wall directly.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

11
11 * Eject Trad 24m

Start as for Perpetual Poet, but continue up the crack line.

FA: Rob Wallace, Darrin Gray & David Gray, 1983

12

Climb the crack above and right of BHP 5m right of Eject, to a corner finish.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

13
10 Diagonal Crack Trad 12m

Climb the short diagonal crack 6m right of Psychopathic Gardener.

FA: David Gray & Bob McBride, 1982

Activity

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