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Description

This jumble of cliffs right of Middle Crag features some gems and 30m+ routes in sections.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route

In the centre of the Connie Buttress, immediately right of Rash (Middle Crag) is a crack/corner through a small roof below a thin yellow corner. Climbs the cracks and corner to a problematic exit and tree belay.

FA: David Pickles, Lou Zamberlan & David Gray, 1979

Kevlar overalls advised! Start at the offwidth corner 5m right of Connie. Struggle up the corner then cracks on the left wall to join Connie.

FA: David Gray, 1983

As you will up the buttress 10m right of Vile File to a prominent tree just above Vile File’s corner. Move up to small tree, traverse left at half height then up.

FA: David Gray & Michael Ward, 1980

Starting as for MD, move up to small tree then traverse right to climb the prominent corner.

FA: Rob Wallace & Lou Zamberlan, 1979

A useful solo descent route that involves short sections of climbing. From the free standing block 15m right of CPN4, wander up to a large tree by a prominent chimney, finishing up the chimney

FA: David Gray, 1982

The gully 10m right of Grunge Gully.

The short bulging first crack 8m right of Dirt. Up the crack with interest then step left to finish up a manky corner just right of Dirt.

FA: Dan Rogers & David Gray, 1982

The good looking V groove / finger crack is yet to be climbed.

The angled ‘V’ corner 10m right of Fist. The corner!

FA: David Gray, 1983

The thin crack splitting the wall 4m right of Grunge Gun. Up the steep crack with some dirt down low.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

No climbs currently ascend the 30m+ high ampitheatre right of Egan.

Climb the right arete of the ampitheatre past 3 ring bolts and #4 Camalot to a bolt belay at 15m. Shares final moves and anchors with Clickbait. Originally continued up easy ground, but better to lower off at anchor.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1994

Up blunt arête 2 m right of Chin up passing 2 ring bolts and a horizontal break ( #3 and #4 cam) going left past hanging tree ( not necessary to hang on to) and left to arête to finish as for chin up

A diagonal narrow hand crack passing to the right of the hanging tree 20m right of Egan. Now sports new lower offs at the end of the crack at 15 m.

FA: Dave Gray, Paul Smith & Dan Rogers, 1982

Climbs the corner 1m right of 'Foot loose and Fancy Tree' to a set of ring bolt anchors at top of crack at 10m.

FA: David Gray, 1982

The arête 2m right of P&S. 3RB and #0.75and 0.5 cams in horizontal break to protect mantle after second bolt

The scungy crack / groove line 8m right of 'Pure and Simple' to a bulging conclusion.

FA: David Gray, 1983

The track now continues past a short wall, a large balancing block and some short corners.

Start below a fist/offwidth crack 25m right of Suburbia. Climb the steep wall then struggle up the crack.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rogers, 1982

The arete 1m left of 'Drop Kick'.

FA: Corey Sawyer, 2000

Climb the corner and roof at the left end of the large cave 4m right of 'Awkward and Unusual'.

FA: Dan Rogers, Dave Gray, Darrin Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

Up 'Drop Kick' to the roof, then right and up via a ring bolt to lower off.

FA: Coery Sawyer, 2000

Climb the corner at the right hand end of the cave 6m right of Drop Kick.

FA: Dan Rogers, 1982

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