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Description

This jumble of cliffs right of Middle Crag features some gems and 30m+ routes in sections.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 * Connie Trad 25m

In the centre of the Connie Buttress, immediately right of Rash (Middle Crag) is a crack/corner through a small roof below a thin yellow corner. Climbs the cracks and corner to a problematic exit and tree belay.

FA: David Pickles, Lou Zamberlan & David Gray, 1979

2
13 Vile File Trad 24m

Kevlar overalls advised! Start at the offwidth corner 5m right of Connie. Struggle up the corner then cracks on the left wall to join Connie.

FA: David Gray, 1983

3
9 MD Trad 20m

As you will up the buttress 10m right of Vile File to a prominent tree just above Vile File’s corner. Move up to small tree, traverse left at half height then up.

FA: David Gray & Michael Ward, 1980

4
9 CPN4 Trad 20m

Starting as for MD, move up to small tree then traverse right to climb the prominent corner.

FA: Rob Wallace & Lou Zamberlan, 1979

5
5 Grunge Gully Trad 7m

A useful solo descent route that involves short sections of climbing. From the free standing block 15m right of CPN4, wander up to a large tree by a prominent chimney, finishing up the chimney

FA: David Gray, 1982

6
4 Dirt Trad 10m

The gully 10m right of Grunge Gully.

7
13 Fist Trad 14m

The short bulging first crack 8m right of Dirt. Up the crack with interest then step left to finish up a manky corner just right of Dirt.

FA: Dan Rodgers & David Gray, 1982

The good looking V groove / finger crack is yet to be climbed.

8
7 Grunge Gun Trad 15m

The angled ‘V’ corner 10m right of Fist. The corner!

FA: David Gray, 1983

9
15 Egan Trad 15m

The thin crack splitting the wall 4m right of Grunge Gun. Up the steep crack with some dirt down low.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodger, 1982

No climbs currently ascend the 30m+ high ampitheatre right of Egan.

10
22 Chin Up Mixed 30m, 3

Climb the right arete of the ampitheatre past 3 bolts and large friends to a bolt belay. Continue up the wall and crack above.

FA: David Gray & Robert Stow, 1994

11

Bizarre climbing up the finger crack (and hanging tree) 20m right of Egan. Climb the crack (or lunge for the hanging branch for entertainment) to a tree belay. Climb the wall directly above the crack to a tree belay.

FA: Dave Gray, Paul Smith & Dan Rodgers, 1982

12
11 Pure and Simple Trad 9m

Climbs the corner 1m right or 'Foot loose and Fancy Tree' to join that climb.

FA: David Gray, 1982

13
10 Suburbia Trad 7m

The scungy crack / groove line 8m right of 'Pure and Simple' to a bulging conclusion.

FA: David Gray, 1983

The track now continues past a short wall, a large balancing block and some short corners.

14

Start below a fist/offwidth crack 25m right of Suburbia. Climb the steep wall then struggle up the crack.

FA: David Gray & Dan Rodgers, 1982

15
17 * Apple Core Trad 12m

The arete 1m left of 'Drop Kick'.

FA: Corey Sawyer, 2000

16
15 Drop Kick Trad 14m

Climb the corner and roof at the left end of the large cave 4m right of 'Awkward and Unusual'.

FA: Dan Rodgers, Dave Gray, Darrin Gray & Robert Stow, 1982

17
21 ** Soy Sauce Mixed 10m, 1

Up 'Drop Kick' to the roof, then right and up via a ring bolt to lower off.

FA: Coery Sawyer, 2000

18
13 Tree Trad 8m

Climb the corner at the right hand end of the cave 6m right of Drop Kick.

FA: Dan Rodgers, 1982

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