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Description

The section of cliff to the right of the Wild West, and to the around the nose from it, is characterised by a steep base and dense fern coverage. Although broken, sections of cliff such as Exhaustion and Sunset Strip are large unbroken features.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Room 101 Sport 18m

FA: V Wills, 2004

2
14 Fore Arm Jolt Trad 25m

Climb the obvious right facing corner, 20m right of the access gully. Step right to a groove finish.

FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rodgers, 1982

3
15 ** Paul's Peril Trad 25m

The obvious cliff splitting crack 2m right of Fore Arm Jolt. Up!

FA: Dan Rodgers & Paul Smith, 1982

4
14 Exhaustion Trad 30m

The original route up the wall, climbed Paul’s Peril to the bulge then moved left to finish up Fore Arm Jolt.

FA: David Pickles & David Gray, 1980

5
19 Dry Gasp Mixed 25m, 2

A steal! Climb the thin crack 2m right and down from the start of Paul’s Peril. Continue up the wall passing 2 bolts and a large Friend break.

FA: John Wilde & Darrin Gray, 1984

The vague track drops down through a large wind blown cave, then continues through ferns for a further 50m until an impressive grey/orange wall is reached (ie the Sunset Strip).

6
12 Camber Jamb Trad 27m

Start 6m left of Trash at a prominent crack in the broken wall. Wind your way up the centre of the wall to finish on the arete.

FA: Darrin Gray & John Wilde, 1985

7
12 Trash Trad 25m

This is the low angled ramp/corner system that forms the left boundary of the Sunset Strip wall. Climb the crack systems past a large tree.

FA: Dan Rodgers & Robert Stow, 1982

8

Wall left of Sunset Strip

FA: John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1984

9
22 ** Sunset Strip Mixed 30m, 4

Climbs the wall right of Trash past 4 bolts with a thread runner in cave. The crux is passing the first 2 bolts on knobbly rock, though the remaining wall is sustained

FA: John Wilde & James Cowmeadow, 1984

FFA: David Gray & Alison Hall, 1986

10
14 Cave Man's Bivvy Trad 32m

Starts about 15m right of the Sunset Strip wall at a yellow cave with a corner above it’s left edge. Climb the corner to belay at a prominent tree. Swing left across the exposed wall, traversing left and up to the cave. Climb out of the cave then directly up the centre of the wall to finish.

FA: David Gray, Robert Stowe, Martin Cook & Brian Cooper, 1982

11
17 Fall-ding Trad 20m

Starts 1m left of Cave Man’s Bivvy. Layaways off the left hand side of the cave, lead to a move left to climb the wall above (tree belay)

FA: John Wilde & Daniel Danuser, 1984

12
12 Falcon Trad 15m

Start 15m right of 'Fall-ding' at the left hand crack of the square cut groove. Climb the corner / handcrack to finish at a tree on the left.

FA: David Gray, 1983

13
11 Holden Trad 10m

Climb the right hand line in the square cut groove.

FA: David Gray, 1983

14
14 Gut Buster Trad 12m

Start a the flake 8m right of Holden, just left of a prominent arete. Climb the flake and wall above.

FA: David Gray & Michael Ward, 1980

15

Start in the chimney 10m right of Gut buster. (a possible access route). Climb the chimney to the ledge, then walk left where some easy moves lead to the top.

FA: Michael Ward, 1980

16
14 Horizontal Hold Trad 20m

Start at the crack a couple of metres right of Glacial Aboration. Climb the crack to the cave then continue up (common with One Armed Bandit).

FA: Robert Stow & Dan Rodgers, 1982

17
15 One Armed Bandit Trad 20m

Start at the vague groove 2m right of Horizontal Hold. Climb the groove to the cave, then swing out right and up into the crack above.

FA: David Gray, Robert Stow & Brian Cooper, 1982

18
12 Mouse House Trad 20m

Start 80m right of One Armed Bandit at a steep block jammed in the square cut groove. Up to a prominent tree.

FA: [John Wilde & Dan Rodgers, 1983

19
12 Wafer Flake Trad 8m

Start 8m right of Mouse House at an overhung square cut but sandy corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Dan Rodgers & Robert Stow, 1982

20
20 * War is Peace Sport 15m, 5

5RB, DUBB. Start overhung flake then join 'Ignorance Is Strength' at 4th RB.

FA: V Wills, 2004

21
20 * Ignorance Is Strength Sport 13m, 4

4RB, DUBB. Up at small cave.

FA: V Wills, 2004

22
20 * Freedom is Slavery Sport 14m

FA: V Wills, 2004

23
18 Do it to Julia Sport 13m

FA: V Wills, 2004

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