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Summary

Good easy sport climbing five minutes from Hobart city.

Description

'Waterworks Quarry' is the central crag of Hobart and after a stint in the ugly corner has come out looking quite good. Why? As of 2009 the place has been given a total overhaul, with a chest high fence with a gate just for climbers provided by the HCC. It has a flat area in front of the cliff (including mountain bike pump track!) for the kids to play, which is a rare treat for family climbers. Finally, almost all routes are nice and safe after having been retrobolted - well that is as safe as you can be on quarried rock. You can now easily do a few quick climbs after uni or work and be home in time for tea.

The trade route for the place is 'Serial Driller'. I quite like 'Death Unto Racists' and 'Bastard Cancer', both fun climbing. Paul Pritchard is a resident climber and in 2010 he and Duncan Meerding (legally blind!) added 'The Blind Leading The Crippled'. It is great to see that such a fine climber is out there adding to the Hobart scene.

It's marvellous to have a city crag where mates can meet and you don’t have to haul your ass to get there. I would love to know who has done all the routes here in a day? A reasonable challange for the gym buffed boys and girls. Check it out. DB

Access issues

The quarry is in a Hobart City Council park and the Council are supportive of climbing here.

Approach

Drive up Davey St in the city, continuing straight through the intersection with the Southern Outlet as though you were going up the mountain. Turn left into Lynton Ave, then right into Waterworks Rd. The quarry is about 500m up, right beside the road on the left.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V5 * Local's Breakfast Boulder 60m

The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "Jesus Built My Hammer Drill" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2009

'Justin's Crack' and 'Spiderman's Arsehole' are unclimbable following a rock fall in 2010 and are listed for historical record only.

2
17 Justin's Crack Trad 7m

FA: Justin Kennedy

3

FA: Jon Tiller, 1991

At the far L of the climbable cliff is a slab accessed via a set of rough stone steps.

4
17 Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi Sport 10m, 4

L-most line of bolts on slab, starting just behind the small tree. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'Twilight Groping'.

FA: A. Lewes & T. Helleman, 2009

5
17 Twilight Groping Sport 10m, 4

Start 2m R of 'Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi'. 4 UBs to chains shared with 'DBACR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1989

6
12 Eye Bolt Route Sport 10m, 5

Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains.

7
15 Weetbix Sport 11m, 4

R-most line of bolts on slab, 2m R of 'Eye Bolt Route'. 4 UBs to DUBB.

FA: E. Jones, T. Gilbert & G. Abell, 2009

Down and R of the 'Eye Bolt Route' slab is a short section of lower cliff. Between 'Five Four' & 'Death Unto Racists' is a DUBB (double U bolt belay) 1m off the ground, perfect for teaching beginners how to clean anchors, set up top ropes and so on.

8
12 Five Four Sport 8m, 3

Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

9
18 Death Unto Racists Sport 15m, 4

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

10
18 Bastard Cancer Sport 15m, 4

Arête just L of main slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, can pre-clip first bolt from easy corner to R. 4 UBs (5 if you use last UB on 'Death Unto Racists') finishing at DBB shared with 'DUR'.

FA: Richard Marshall, 1987

Just R of the 'Bastard Cancer' arête is the main slab, prominent because of its height it has the longest & hardest climbs at 'Waterworks'.

11
18 Phantom Stone Thrower Sport 20m, 5

L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.

FA: Jon Tiller, 1993

12
19 Ruddiocracy Sport 15m, 5

Delicate slabbing. Start just R of 'Phantom Stone Thrower'. 5 UBs to chains.

FA: Guy Abell & Emlyn Jones, 2010

13
24 * Les Grands Ensembles Sport 20m, 7

Start just L of small roof, a few metres R of 'Ruddiocracy'. 7 FHs. Finish at same chains as 'Tour de France' & 'Serial Driller'.

FA: Richard Cockerill, 2000

14
26 Tour de France Sport 20m, 7

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

FA: Hamish Jackson, 1994

15
20 * Serial Driller Sport 20m, 9

Start 3m R of 'Tour de France', towards R end of central slab. Follow L line bolts after 3rd bolt. Trend L at top to chains shared with 'Les Grands Ensembles' & 'TDF'. 9 UBs.

FA: John Domeney, 1993

16
20 Opening Festering Wounds Sport 20m, 8

Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.

FA: John Domeney, 1994

17
21 Totally Awesome Sport 21m, 9

Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. Lots of loose rock so take care. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.

FA: Dave Humphries, 2012

From here R the main slab continues but at a lower height.

18
23 Sequels of the Light Sport 10m, 5

Start a few metres R of 'Totally Awesome'. Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab. 5 UBs to anchors.

FA: Evan Peacock, 1992

19

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: A. Rosa, 1992

20
20 Oh Joyous Lobotomy Sport 10m, 5

Start shared with 'Trad Wankers Must Die'. Up easily past 3 UBs and optional FH. Then head L through steeper section past final UB to anchors.

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creator's hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi. The first bolt, with its stark placement and uncompromising height off the deck, deftly describes mans inhumanity to man. It is also a vivid phallic symbol graphically outlining the first ascentionist's subconscious insecurity about the size of his bit. The moves up the wall above form an abstract modern dance that brings to mind images of East European conflict especially the side-pull which is the key to reaching the third bolt and a new round of Geneva peace talks. A man will always return to old stomping grounds and search for his roots; pulling up on the crucial razor sharp undercut one can almost feel them. The heady aroma of vast African plains drifts tantalisingly through ones nostrils and momentarily the mists of time part, you run, then walk, then crawl back down the evolutionary chain until an apelike heave sends you scurrying up and over the crux. You pause to appreciate the moment and the true symbolism of the metaphor, but a glance at the vacant expanse looming high to the left tells you the best is still to come."

FA: John Domeney, 1993

21
18 Trad Wankers Must Die Sport 10m, 4

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

FA: J. Domeney & S. Stojanovski, 1992

22
23 Urban Renewal Sport 10m, 5

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

FA: Evan Peacock, 1992

23
20 Drilling in the Name of Sport 10m, 5

Climb the cruxy corner to the third bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

FA: John Domeney, 1993

24
15 Resurrection Sport 10m, 5

Link up. Start up 'Jesus Built My Hammer Drill'. At 3rd UB, head L to join 'Drilling In The Name Of' at its 4th UB. Finish at 'DITNO' anchors.

FA: OCCG (Old Codgers Climbing Group), 2005

25
17 to 18 Jesus Built My Hammer Drill Sport 10m, 4

Good thin climbing up face to L of 'The Blind Leading The Crippled' arête. 4 UBs to anchors.

FA: John Domeney, 1992

26

Ascends the blunt arête at the R end of the cliff. Try climbing it blindfolded! 4 UBs to chains.

FA: Duncan Meerding & Paul Pritchard, 2010

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