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Waterworks Quarry 25 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 13m
  • Style: Mostly Sport
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 426
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Description:

Waterworks is the central crag of Hobart and after a stint in the ugly corner has come out looking quite good. Why? As of 2009 the place has been given a total overhaul with a chest high fence with a gate just for climbers provided by the HCC. It has a flat area in front of the cliff for the kids to play which is a rare treat for family climbers, and finally, almost all routes have been retro bolted as of 2009 - well that is as safe as you can be on quarried rock. You can now safely do a few routes after uni or work and be home for tea.

The trade route for the place is Serial Driller (21). I quite like, Death Unto Racist (20) and Bastard Cancer (21), both soft touches but fun climbing. Paul Prichard is a resident climber and in early 2010 he added a climb near Jesus Built My Hammer Drill (18). It is great to see that such a fine climber is out there adding to the Hobart scene.

It's marvelous to have a city crag where mates can meet and you don’t have to haul your ass to get to. I would love to know who has done all the routes here in a day? A reasonable challange for the gym buffed boys and girls. Check it out. DB

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Justin's Crack
17
Unknown 7m
2 Spiderman's Arsehole
21
Unknown 7m
3 Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi

FA: A. Lewes and T. Helleman, 2009

17
Sport 3
4 Twilight Groping
17
Sport 15m
5 Eye Bolt Route

Centre of slabby featured face past 3 bolts to lower off.

12
Sport 8m , 3
6 * Weetbix
15
Sport 11m , 4
7 Five Four
12
Sport 8m
8 Death Unto Racists

Delicate climbing, starting up the left arete of the clean buttress left of the central slab. Shares a lower-off with Bastard Cancer.

18
Sport 12m , 4
9 Bastard Cancer

R arete of clean buttress left of central slab. Nice rock. Bouldery start, probably smart to pre-clip the first bolt from the easy corner to the right.

19
Sport 12m , 4
10 Phantom Stone Thrower
18
Sport 20m
11 Ruddiocracy

Delicate slabbing to lower-off.

19
Sport 15m , 5
12 Les Grands Ensembles

A bouldery start through the left side of the rooflet under the central slab, followed by a good rest, before a sustained series of crux slabmoves. Finish at same chain as TDF and SD

24
Sport 20m , 7
13 Tour de France
26
Sport 25m
14 Serial Driller

Start up the layback flake on the right side of the central slab. Trend leftwards to lower-off.

20
Sport 20m , 9
15 Opening Festering Wounds

Shares start with SD, before breaking right to chain.

20
Sport 20m , 9
16 Totally Awesome
21
Sport 21m , 8
17 Sequels of the Light

Up right facing corner to overlap. Move slightly leftwards from top of overlap, then finish back right up final slab.

23
Sport 10m , 5
18 * Pathetic Nongs Steal Hangers, Yes I'm Talking to You Arsehole

The best route at the quarry? Continually interesting climbing up the groove feature and bulge to chain.

21
Sport 10m , 4
19 Oh Joyous Lobotomy

"A route in the classic tradition of Waterworks Quarry. A route that will warm the hearts and minds of repeat ascentionists, chill them to the bone and make them sick to their stomachs. This route epitomises its creators hedonistic and sociopathic style and is a textbook case of man against rock, rock against gravity and gravity against the combined forces of Ramset and Ryobi...."

20
Sport 10m , 5
20 Trad Wankers Must Die
18
Sport 10m
21 Urban Renewal

Nice climbing. Start up right facing corner (shared with DITNO). Where DITNO moves right, continue straight up the line. Clips the same bolts as DITNO. No chain or lower-off, but easy to traverse 2m left or right to an adjacent route.

23
Sport 10m , 5
22 Drilling in the Name of

Climb the cruxy corner to the third bolt on UR, move right to easier left trending corner line. Up to chain on JBMHD.

20
Sport 10m , 5
23 Resurrection

A nice link up, starting up JBMHD, and moving left to finish up DITNO.

15
Sport 10m , 5
24 Jesus Built My Hammer Drill

Immediatly left of the right arete of main face. Chain.

17 to 18
Sport 10m , 4
25 The Blind Leading the Blind

New climb (2010) just R of Jesus Built my Hammer Drill. A weird foot jam on an arete for something a little different. Also known under the name, The Blind Leading the Crippled.

16
Sport 12m , 4

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