Waterworks Quarry Mostly sport climbing25 routes in crag
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Good easy sport climbing five minutes from Hobart city.
'Waterworks Quarry' is the central crag of Hobart and after a stint in the ugly corner has come out looking quite good. Why? As of 2009 the place has been given a total overhaul, with a chest high fence with a gate just for climbers provided by the HCC. It has a flat area in front of the cliff (including mountain bike pump track!) for the kids to play, which is a rare treat for family climbers. Finally, almost all routes are nice and safe after having been retrobolted - well that is as safe as you can be on quarried rock. You can now easily do a few quick climbs after uni or work and be home in time for tea.
The trade route for the place is 'Serial Driller'. I quite like 'Death Unto Racists' and 'Bastard Cancer', both fun climbing. Paul Pritchard is a resident climber and in 2010 he and Duncan Meerding (legally blind!) added 'The Blind Leading The Crippled'. It is great to see that such a fine climber is out there adding to the Hobart scene.
It's marvelous to have a city crag where mates can meet and you don’t have to haul your ass to get there. I would love to know who has done all the routes here in a day? A reasonable challange for the gym buffed boys and girls. Check it out. DB
The quarry is in a Hobart City Council park and the Council are supportive of climbing here.
Short easy climb, great for beginners or first time leaders. 3 UBs to DUBB.
FA: Jon Tiller, 1983
Just R of the 'Bastard Cancer' arête is the main slab, prominent because of its height it has the longest & hardest climbs at 'Waterworks'.
L-most end of main slab, 3m R of 'Bastard Cancer'. 5 UBs to chains.
FA: Jon Tiller, 1993
Delicate slabbing. Start just R of 'Phantom Stone Thrower'. 5 UBs to chains.
FA: Guy Abell, Emlyn Jones, 2010
Start as for 'Serial Driller' but follow R line of bolts after 3rd bolt. 8 UBs to chains.
FA: John Domeney, 1994
Start at R end of the tall section of main slab, 2m R of 'Serial Driller'. 9 UBs & FHs to DBB.