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Description

One of the main attractions to West Cape Howe. The 50m high semi-detached sea stack offers some of the best climbing in the state.

Access issues inherited from West Cape Howe

The 4WD track can vary greatly in condition. A shovel may be needed to fill in some of those holes!

Approach

From car park, follow abandoned 4WD track west. Turn right after 100m (approx) and follow faint tracks north. The Old Man is hard to spot until you are there.

Descent notes

The routes start on a small chockstone platform 1/3 the way up the sea stack. Abseil down Easy Rider. The belay ledge seems to be pretty safe from large waves.

Ethic inherited from West Cape Howe

There is no established ethic, but the area was once within the 'Adventure Zone' which prohibited bolting. The usual WA ethics towards bolting apply, and all bolts should be placed with careful consideration, and definitely not used to replace natural pro.

Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Overhanging Nose

Immediately north of the sea stack is an overhanging nose with a large wave cut platform about 20m down. Rap down to platform.

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1
19 Glass Staircase Trad 26m

FA: C. Slee & J. Nevin, 2002

2
14 Blow Wave Trad 15m

FA: C. Slee, 2002

The Old Man

The next climbs are found on the prominent sea stack.

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3
26 *** Dancing The Deep Blue Mixed 25m, 2

Nice arête climbing on the Old Man. Start at belay point for The Climb, but traverse left along horizontal cracks to vertical crack that leads to ledge. Straddle arete past two FH to the top. Bolts are not ideal, but seem to hold.

FA: S. Richardson, 1992

4
18 *** The Climb Trad 23m

One of the best climbs for its grade in Australia! Climb the center hand/off-width crack that divides The Old Man pillar. Take big cams for top section.

FA: M. Smith, R. McArthur, V. Keane & H. Wopereis, 1978

5
21 ** Horizontal Refreshment Trad 18m

From the belay ledge at the base of the old man go up the inside corner and onto the face continuing to a short vertical crack at the top. Well protected with a few small wires and small to medium cams

FA: Jonas Hollingworth & Trent Potts, 2014

6
21 ** Horizontal Refreshment Variant Trad 18m

Start as for Horizontal Refreshment but continue right at the top.

FA: Sam Davies, 2014

7
6 Easy Rider Trad 23m

Mousetrap Wall

The west facing cliff about 15m south of the Old Man.

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8
12 Better Mousetrap Trad 26m

Caitlin Wall

The next segment of cliff south of The Mousetrap Wall.

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9
15 Thrunobulax Trad 20m
10
11 Caitlin Trad 20m

Resurrection Wall

The southernmost part of cliff line before it turns west and forms the prominent Prow feature.

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11
12 * Resurrection Trad 55m
12
11 Ventriloquist Trad 40m
13
9 Loosefer Trad 40m
14
14 Veteran Trad 50m

Activity

Check out what is happening in Old Man Area.