Eaglestone Rocks Rock climbing

23 routes in crag

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Summary

An extensively bolted granite boulder in the middle of nowhere

Access issues

If you're taking the 94 (Great Eastern Highway) from Perth, when you get to Merredin turn left to cross the railway line on Barrack Street, take your immediate left on Gamenya, then your immediate right onto Nungarin Road. Take that for about 10km then turn right at the railway crossing taking you onto Knungajin Merredin Road. Take that for about 23km until you come to an obvious junction with two dirt roads going straight on and to the right, and a sealed road to the left. Take the sealed road to the left (Chandlor Road) for about 1km before taking your first right onto Cornish Road. Take that for a round about 10km until you see the signed dirt road turn off for Lake Brown on the right. Take that until it takes a sharp left just before the salt lake, and instead of turning left take the smaller dirt trail straight on which will take you straight to the base of the crag.

Approach

There is a short walk from where you park your car. You can park right at the base of the rock.

Where to stay

Camp at base of boulder

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Bad Seed Sport 11m, 2
2
17 * Wishbone Mixed 15m, 5

Place small cams in bottom flake

3
19 *** Capachow Mixed 16m, 3

Natural gear in bottom flake

4
17 You Don't Know Jack Sport 18m, 6
5
18 ** Pink Rings Sport 18m, 5
6
17 Sparrow Sport 18m, 5
7
19 * Levitation Sport 19m, 5

Mantle start on the bulge at the bottom to a secure first clip, straight up to the top out and walk/ scramble to double anchors at the top. Rings all the way.

8
18 Old School Leaver Sport 19m, 5

Head up the crack with rings up the left hand boulder. Leave the crack and come out onto the face of the left hand boulder, follow rings up to double anchor at the very top. Be prepared to haul against some serious rope drag to get the rope back if lowering down.

9
15 * Old School Trad 18m

Up Chimney and protect using crack at top.

FFA: R. Weiter, A. Separovich, 2008

10
21 Emu Walking Mixed 17m, 4

Firslt line of bolts to the right of Old School chimney. Take small cams to protect crack at top.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2006

11
25 ** Full Throttle Sport 17m, 6

To the right of Emu Walking. Thin and hard

FFA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

12
23 *** Fidget Gene Trad 18m

Monster off-width crack.

13
22 Project Sport 20m, 6
14
20 Clockwork Orange Sport 13m, 3
15
25 Whiplash Sport 25m, 5

Trad belay

16
22 *** Ithica Sport 12m, 4

Trad Belay

17
17 Suzuki Crack Trad 8m
18
14 Jaundice Trad 8m
19
10 Mini Me Trad 6m
20
21 * Twenty One Jump Street Sport 10m, 3

Hard and dynamic start leads you to good holds and top of boulder.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2005

21
16 Bitter Sport 9m, 3
22
20 Juice It Up Sport 13m
23
19 * Nudie Sport 13m, 2

Open trips

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