Eaglestone Rocks Rock climbing

34 routes in crag

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Summary

An extensively bolted granite boulder in the middle of nowhere

Access issues

If you're taking the 94 (Great Eastern Highway) from Perth, when you get to Merredin turn left to cross the railway line on Barrack Street, take your immediate left on Gamenya, then your immediate right onto Nungarin Road. Take that for about 10km then turn right at the railway crossing taking you onto Knungajin Merredin Road. Take that for about 23km until you come to an obvious junction with two dirt roads going straight on and to the right, and a sealed road to the left. Take the sealed road to the left (Chandlor Road) for about 1km before taking your first right onto Cornish Road. Take that for a round about 10km until you see the signed dirt road turn off for Lake Brown on the right. Take that until it takes a sharp left just before the salt lake, and instead of turning left take the smaller dirt trail straight on which will take you straight to the base of the crag.

Approach

There is a short walk from where you park your car. You can park right at the base of the rock.

Where to stay

Camp at base of boulder

Routes

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Grade Route

Bad Seed Boulders

1
18 Cold Nights Sport 10m, 3

FA: A. Griffin, 2006

2
20 Freeballer Trad 8m

Risky

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

3
20 Jack White Trad 7m

FA: R> Weiter, A. Separovich, 2007

4
22 Second Chamber Sport 11m, 3

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

5
17 Bad Seed Sport 11m, 2

Wishbone Wall

6
21 Fear The Smear Sport 14m, 6

Smear!

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

7
17 * Wishbone Mixed 15m, 5

Place small cams in bottom flake

Emu Wall

Probably the most popular and longest climbing at Eaglestone Rocks. The bottom is a nice place to relax during the heat of the day.

8
Project ?? Sport Project 16m, 5

Probably not a project anymore.

Set by G. Ludlam

9
19 ** Capachow Mixed 16m, 3

Natural gear in bottom flake

10
17 You Don't Know Jack Sport 18m, 6
11
18 ** Pink Rings Sport 18m, 5
12
17 Sparrow Sport 18m, 5
13
19 * Levitation Sport 19m, 5

Mantle start on the bulge at the bottom to a secure first clip, straight up to the top out and walk/ scramble to double anchors at the top. Rings all the way.

14
18 Old School Leaver Sport 19m, 5

Head up the crack with rings up the left hand boulder. Leave the crack and come out onto the face of the left hand boulder, follow rings up to double anchor at the very top. Be prepared to haul against some serious rope drag to get the rope back if lowering down.

15
15 * Old School Trad 18m

Up Chimney and protect using crack at top.

FFA: R. Weiter, A. Separovich, 2008

16
21 Emu Walking Mixed 17m, 4

Firslt line of bolts to the right of Old School chimney. Take small cams to protect crack at top.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2006

17
25 ** Full Throttle Sport 17m, 6

To the right of Emu Walking. Thin and hard

FFA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Fidget Gene Area

Beautiful face, dominated by the Fidget Gene crack, with some hard, technical climbing.

18

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

19
30 ** Buried Alive Sport 18m, 4

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

20
27 Fear and Pain Mixed 14m, 2

Start as for Fidget Gene, then move left onto face and follow line of BR.

FA: J. Thelwell, 2010

21
23 *** Fidget Gene Trad 18m

Monster off-width crack.

Clockwork Orange Area

22
22 Project Sport 20m, 6
23
20 Clockwork Orange Sport 13m, 3

Mini-Me Boulder

Great, technical face climbing up small boulder. Aspiring trad climbers can test their gear placements on some easy trad routes.

24
25 Whiplash Sport 25m, 5

Trad belay

25
22 *** Ithica Sport 12m, 4

Trad Belay

26
Another Project Sport Project 12m, 6

Set by J. Girdlestone

27
17 Suzuki Crack Trad 8m
28
14 Jaundice Trad 8m
29
10 Mini Me Trad 6m

Terradome Wall

These two climbs start on top of the Mini-Me Boulder.

30
21 * Twenty One Jump Street Sport 10m, 3

Hard and dynamic start leads you to good holds and top of boulder.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2005

31
10 Terradome Sport 10m, 2

Best to stick clip first bolt

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Bitter Area

Features a wide chimney whhich gives easy access to the top of the main boulders.

32
16 Bitter Sport 9m, 3
33
20 Juice It Up Sport 13m
34
19 * Nudie Sport 13m, 2

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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