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Summary

An extensively bolted granite boulder in the middle of nowhere

Description

Short climbs, mostly bolted, on granite boulders.

Access issues

If you're taking the 94 (Great Eastern Highway) from Perth, when you get to Merredin turn left to cross the railway line on Barrack Street, take your immediate left on Gamenya, then your immediate right onto Nungarin Road. Take that for about 10km then turn right at the railway crossing taking you onto Knungajin Merredin Road. Take that for about 23km until you come to an obvious junction with two dirt roads going straight on and to the right, and a sealed road to the left. Take the sealed road to the left (Chandlor Road) for about 1km before taking your first right onto Cornish Road. Take that for a round about 10km until you see the signed dirt road turn off for Lake Brown on the right. Take that until it takes a sharp left just before the salt lake, and instead of turning left take the smaller dirt trail straight on which will take you straight to the base of the crag.

Approach

There is a short walk from where you park your car. You can park right at the base of the rock.

Where to stay

Camp at base of boulder

Routes

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Grade Route

Little offwidth boulder 50m out from the base of Eaglestone Rock located on the left side of the road as you drive in

Sit start this short steep offwidth crack which has the best parts of Fidget Gene, both the inversion and the offwidth. Bit contrived as there are crimps and features on the wall which can be used to undercling & layback your way to top but where's the fun in that! Grade is for climbing it like a offwidth without face holds.

FA: Peter Zhang, 2017

FA: A. Griffin, 2006

Risky

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Up chimney then left across slab to thin crack which leads to top.

FA: Ross Weiter & Dena Rao, 2016

FA: A. Separovich & Ross Weiter, 2007

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Smear!

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Place small cams in bottom flake

Probably the most popular and longest climbing at Eaglestone Rocks. The bottom is a nice place to relax during the heat of the day.

Probably not a project anymore.

Set by G. Ludlam

Natural gear in bottom flake. A part of the flake has come off (July 15).

A nice flow of moves to the top.

Mantle start on the bulge at the bottom to a secure first clip, straight up to the top out and walk/ scramble to double anchors at the top. Rings all the way.

Head up the crack with rings up the left hand boulder. Leave the crack and come out onto the face of the left hand boulder, follow rings up to double anchor at the very top. Be prepared to haul against some serious rope drag to get the rope back if lowering down.

Up Chimney and protect using crack at top.

FFA: R. Weiter & A. Separovich, 2008

Firslt line of bolts to the right of Old School chimney. Take small cams to protect crack at top.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2006

To the right of Emu Walking. Thin and hard

FFA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Beautiful face, dominated by the Fidget Gene crack, with some hard, technical climbing.

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Start as for Fidget Gene, then move left onto face and follow line of BR.

FA: J. Thelwell, 2010

Monster off-width crack.

Great, technical face climbing up small boulder. Aspiring trad climbers can test their gear placements on some easy trad routes.

Climb past three bolts on arete to tough finish. Small finger crimps, big moves and crap feet.

Start as Ithica and follow bolts to the left to FH belay

FA: J. Hollingworth, 2015

Start with difficult moves near broken tree (do not use) and follow jugs and crimps rightwards to difficult and reach moves to second clip (ground fall potential). Delicately climb to top anchor. https://vimeo.com/28926482

Set by J. Girdlestone

These two climbs start on top of the Mini-Me Boulder.

Hard and dynamic start leads you to good holds and top of boulder.

FFA: K. Amerongen, 2005

Best to stick clip first bolt

FA: J. Girdlestone, 2006

Features a wide chimney whhich gives easy access to the top of the main boulders.

Activity

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