Region Guide for Western Australia

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Western Australia 1,998 routes in Region

131210118181152145634

1 Perth, 2 Margaret River, 3 Albany, 4 West Cape Howe, 5 Denmark, 6 Walpole, 8 Kalbarri, 10 Exmouth, 11 Newman, 12 Dampier Archipelago, 13 The Kimberley, 14 The Stirling Ranges, 15 Peak Charles, 18 Eaglestone Rocks

seasonality

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 121.400342, -25.008599

1.1. Perth 682 routes in Region

1312483212152026

1 Avon Valley National Park, 2 Mountain Quarry, 4 Statham's Quarry, 8 Darlington, 12 Swan River, 15 Churchman's Brook, 20 Mount Cuthbert, 26 Wellington Dam, 31 The Hangout Indoor Climbing Centre, 32 Rockface Indoor Rock Climbing Centre

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 115.651534, -32.116053

1.1.1. Avon Valley National Park 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 116.226769, -31.600252

1.1.2. Mountain Quarry 63 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.062187, -31.914800

Description:© (hotgemini)

Located only 23 km from 'Perth' off the Great Eastern 'Highway', 'Mountain Quarry' offers some of the best climbing in a near-to-city area. It is a place to go when you seriously want to go climbing. Most lines are reasonably sustained, grade 20+, and may have the occasional loose flake. A few of the longer routes are exposed and a bit runout at the right places. Some of these are best broken into two pitches because of their complexity. I will not elaborate on the early climbing history. Suffice to say that most of those climbs, with the exception of Playboy (17) are confined to the more broken, less attractive walls at the back of the Quarry

When the quarry was first visited in the mid-60s, it was a forbidding, rock-strewn death trap ringed by loose and menacing boulders on the skyline. The place is completely different today. Development at 'Mountain Quarry' was slow due to the lack of naturally protected lines at the then current level of climbing.

A breakthrough arrived in March of 1988 when Mark Colyvan from Armidale NSW freed the old Michael Adams - Tony Fowler aid route Damper A2 at the new grade of 23. The line was renamed 'Skywalker' and it still stands as a strenuous test piece for the grade. It takes a left traversing undercling and jam crack at the most obvious roof in the Quarry (on the right as you enter). In April 1988, Mike Law made a whirlwind visit and created Fuzz Bucky, with a chip here and a chip there. This climb can be found on the blank low angled wall facing the entrance. Originally grade 24, now 26, as far as the author knows this climb has not received a second ascent. These visits sparked new activity by locals, now armed with bolt kits

The first of these 'new' lines was Urban Ethics (22), a good quality face climb by father and son team R & R Master. Others joined in with a number of good climbs in the 20 - 21 range. Harry Butler produced Vader (22), an excellent line that has dumped a few budding hardmen, and 'Power Play' (20), a gently overhanging flake crack originally done on aid. Ron Master with Michael Adams then put up Go For Broke (21M2), a route involving some exposed face climbing with delicate aid moves to finish. Other routes for that year were Butler's 'Chrysalis', an unrepeated loose face climb, and R & R Master's sustained Hang Ten, which the team later straightened out at grade 24.

Sporadic activity continued through 1989 - 1990. A shaded seasonably wet bay at the back of the Quarry produced Split Personality, again by R & R Master. This climb takes a flake, wall and crack system with 2 variants at grades 17 or 21. These two also bolted and climbed Mullup (21), a good quality route with a delicate but well protected crux. David Wagland appeared on the scene in April 1990 to climb the classic Barren Awakening (23M1). This line consists of a wall and open corner at the central end of the Quarry facing the entrance. The crux involves a bracket bending dyno past the first bolt. Attempts to free the aid have failed.

Progress continued and the first sports-type climbs appeared but not without some controversy. On entering the Quarry, a small bay to the left is encountered which contains a steep 10m wall, with an obvious gently overhanging thin flake crack. This problem was first climbed, on aid, by Peter McKenzie who took a ground fall when his pitons zippered on the final placement. Several years later, a visiting UK climber was witnessed successfully soloing the climb after several times falling from half height. Then three bolts appeared courtesy of Shane Richardson, who did not know the past history, and City Limits was given a grade of 26.

Gary Matier put up Sylvia (21), on an obvious granite buttress in contact with a dark collapsed dolerite dyke, and The Force (22); a good line with varied wall climbing. Matthew Rosser contributed a sustained and technical climb on compact dolerite at grade 22, this line is called Land of the Orange Druggie. R & R Master were back again in 1991 with 'Fringe Benefits' (23). This climb shares its start with Vader but instead of moving left to the arete, takes a thin seam and wall through the left edge of the 'Skywalker' roof. The team also climbed a sister route to Wagland's Barren Awakening, which uses the same upper chain anchor. Learning to Fly (23M1) contains sustained and technical cruxes, hence the name

Even more recent is Peter Koval's Month of Sundays, a weekend project that eventually yielded a well prepared and technical grade 25. A bolted line has appeared on the wall between Urban Ethics and Go for Broke, put up by Phil Calais, it is graded at 24 and known as Star Wars. This climb contains some dubious bolts and pitons, hence it is advised that gear should be checked before leading.

The sports climbing scene arrived into the quarry with a vengeance with Anthony Bell's 1993 effort Cranial Void (27), a route that seems to have all the good holds upside down! Hardbody boulderer Derek Toulalan then added Sweet Pea, originally graded 28 but now downgraded to 27. Bell replied with Black Ambience (29) but the softly spoken Gerard Chipper has had the last word with his desperate deeds on Cardiofunk (29). These are the hardest climbing routes near 'Perth' to date. Much cleaning of the dirt-covered City Limits wall by Logan Barber & Co. produced Space 'Monkey' (28) and there are two more projects nearby.

'Mountain Quarry' still has the potential for new lines and not all of them in the upper grades. However, effort will be required to remove loose rock and create the necessary bolt placements. 'Mountain Quarry' is now Perth's premier top end climbing venue.

by Ron Master

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Mountain Quarry offers some of the best and highest climbing near 'Perth' with a number of classic face climbs and hard bolted sport routes. The quarry consists of good granite with dolerite dykes however there are still some potentially loose sections. Extreme care should be taken with loose rock. Dirt is a serious hazard after winter or heavy rain.

The quarry is situated on the northern side of Coulston Road in the Boya/Greenmount area. The entrance to the car park is about 100 metres past a bus stop on the north side of the road (left hand side if heading east away from Perth). At times it has been possible to drive into the quarry however the access track now has a locked gate and all other entrances have been sealed off. The walk in from the car park is about 5 minutes. Note that cars have been broken into at the car park so. Do not leave any valuables in your vehicles

Routes are described from L to R, starting from the L hand side of the entrance and going around the quarry in an anti-clockwise direction.

1.1.3. Gooseberry Hill Quarry 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.4. Statham's Quarry 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.048019, -31.934005

1.1.5. Boya Quarry 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.6. Toodyay 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.7. John Forest National Park 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.8. Darlington 50 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 116.102735, -31.942251

Unique Features And Strengths:

A nice crag in beautiful bushland makes this an ideal place to hangout with friends on weekends.

Description:

Darlington Boulders contains a large amount of sport climbing on boulders. The climbs are generally short and technical. Avoid this place during the hot months as the heat and ticks are unpleasant

1.1.9. Helena Rocks 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.10. Spring Creek Boulders 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.11. Bridle Rock 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.12. Swan River 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 115.785098, -32.018790

1.1.13. Boulder Rock 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.14. The Lesmurdie Falls 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.15. Churchman's Brook 81 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 116.065393, -32.140744

Description:© (hotgemini)

Churchman's Brook is the most popular climbing location in the 'Perth' region. On any weekend, many individual climbers and would-be climbers can be found there, all vying for a piece of the cliff. The area is well developed in terms of established routes. These range from beginner to hardman climbs, with the majority around the grades 14 to 21.

Churchman's is located east of Armadale in bushland that overlooks the Roleystone Valley. 'Access' is via a well-used dirt track off Soldiers Road, just before it heads downhill going east. The cliff is in two parts - to the west is a small beginners' slope, to the east is the main climbing area

The discovery of the Churchman's Brook cliffs in December 1975 by 'Mac' McArthur was a milestone for the sport of climbing in 'Western Australia'. Up until then, the only metro climbing areas were the quarries and several small cliffs in the Wungong Dam area. 'Mac' had known of the cliff for several years, but his furniture business had kept him from exploring it. When his busy schedule allowed, it only took half an hour of walking from Soldiers Road to locate the cliffs. Today's trails had not been formed at that time, and there was an abundance of vegetation at the base and top of the cliff. Mac was not the first visitor to the area, it is rumoured that local legend, bushranger Moondyne Joe, had a hideout in the cave near the descent gully

After the initial discovery, Mac led a group consisting of Mike Smith, David James and Richard Rathbone on the first CAWA look at the cliff. This group were responsible for most of the early routes. After a quick reconnoitre, all started up different routes in the centre of the cliff. These first climbs were slow affairs and saw several false starts because every handhold bigger than a thumbnail was covered in vegetation and dirt. Smith eventually led the first route, called 'The Sting' (14). The crux on this route was complicated by a hornets' nest which was not found until too late. Next to be stung was Dave James, while putting up the The Bite (16). 'The Fang' (16) by Mac followed

Climbs went up at regular intervals until the early 1980s, when CAWA went into a bit of a decline. During this period, a small but dedicated group including Ron Master, Warren Lees, Wayne Carroll, Mark Gommers and Mark Paramore, as well as some of the earlier climbers, continued to develop the cliff. Alex Oslow put up the classic Super Slab, a fine fingery 21 protected with the first bolt on the cliff. Paramore was responsible for the desperate Gates Of 'Mordor' (20R). Local climber Warren Lees freed the then hardest climb in WA, Up For Grabs (22) which is a brutal climb best attempted only after a long dry period

Approach:© (hotgemini)

Follow your road map to the junction of Albany Hwy and South Western Hwy in Armadale. From here take the Albany Hwy for 200m east and then turn L on Carradine Rd. After 1km turn L on Canns Rd and after a further 3km turn L onto Churchman Brook Rd. Follow this for 1km past a large paddock. The turnoff to the crag is a dirt road on the L, which has a triangular double entrance. After 500m park at a large cleared area before the gate (leave it clear). Leave nothing in the car, as break-ins have recently become common, in step with urban development in the area.

Follow a dirt road downhill on the right side of the fence for 50m, and then descend steeply to the right along many steps until reaching the east end of the crag. CAWA volunteers put in these steps and the ringbolts at the top of the crag. We hope that these actions will reduce erosion, increase your enjoyment, and encourage you to support CAWA.

Due to the large amount of small pebbles at the top, it is recommended that belayers wear a helmet here. Of course leaders are best served by wearing a helmet too - for example upside down falls onto this blocky cliff can be quite hazardous.

In summer, even early mornings can be very hot here, but from mid-afternoon on the cliff is shaded. Commercial abseiling is forbidden here.

Facing the cliff, the routes are described from L to right.

1.1.16. Roleystone 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.17. Wungong Slabs 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Description:

Bolts are glue-in-machine-bolts GIMB. Requre bolt plates.

1.1.18. Eagle Hill 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.19. Mount Randall 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.20. Mount Cuthbert 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 116.254921, -32.348636

1.1.21. Mt Vincent 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.22. Mt Cooke 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.23. Gobby Road Crags 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Aid

1.1.24. Jumperkine Hill 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.25. Serpentine National Park 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.26. Wellington Dam 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 115.979387, -33.399937

1.1.27. Shark Rock 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Trad and Sport

1.1.28. Hardey Road 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.29. Barrington (Gosnells) Quarry 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.1.30. ellis brook valley reserve 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.1.31. The Hangout Indoor Climbing Centre 39 routes in Gym

Summary:

Sport,Boulder

Long/Lat: 115.920808, -31.910987

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at The Hangout you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from The Hangout and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

12 White St, Bayswater WA 6053

1.1.32. Rockface Indoor Rock Climbing Centre 39 routes in Gym

Summary:

Sport,Boulder

Long/Lat: 115.851891, -31.944550

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Rockface you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Rockface and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

63b John Street, Northbridge WA 6003

1.2. Margaret River 259 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 115.162763, -33.992922

1.2.1. Moses Rocks 45 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.2. Willyabrup 142 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.2.3. Gracetown Crag 15 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.2.4. Wallcliffe 17 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad and Top Rope

1.2.5. Bob's Hollow 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport,?

1.2.6. Cosy Corner 18 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3. Albany 300 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 117.868381, -35.033829

1.3.1. Family Rocks 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.2. The Gap 143 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.3.3. Blow Holes 81 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.3.4. Peak Head 37 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad and Aid

1.3.5. Salmon Holes 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.3.6. Mermaid Point 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4. West Cape Howe 254 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 117.600702, -35.095454

Unique Features And Strengths:

West Cape Howe has some of the greatest sea cliff climbing in Australia

Approach:

4WD access along a sandy track, or a 1.5 to 2 hour walk from Shelly Beach.

Where To Stay:

Either camp at West Cape Howe or at Shelly Beach

1.4.1. The Steps 36 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.2. Old Man Area 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.3. The Swallow 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.4. Ed's Ledge 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.5. Blank Wall 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.6. Southern Ocean Wall 41 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

1.4.7. The Raft 72 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.4.8. Styx Gully 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.9. Throne of the Gods 24 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.10. The Book Ends 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.11. Earl Grey Walls 8 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Aid

1.4.12. Torbay Head 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.4.13. Shelley Beach 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.5. Denmark 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 117.365889, -34.968561

1.5.1. Monkey Rock 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.6. Walpole 62 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 116.725051, -34.987445

1.6.1. Mount Franklin 41 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport

1.6.2. Thompson's Cove 21 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.7. Jingamia 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.8. Kalbarri 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 114.396980, -27.695140

Unique Features And Strengths:

Steep sport climbing and exciting trad climbing on sandstone walls carved out by the Murchison River.

Description:

Situated on the Murchison River, a long way from anywhere, this beautiful isolated area is probably one of the best-known crags in Western Australia.

Kalbarri offers a variety of climbing styles, from steep bolted sport routes to longer trad routes. The area is probably most famous for the sport climbing area called the Promenade, the routes here have featured in many photos, and probably have led many people into thinking this area is about sport climbing alone. Don't let this fool you though, there is a lot of trad climbing to be done, with the potential for new routes still relatively untouched.

Whilst Kalbarri is a long way to go for a single crag, it is an amazing part of Australia and well worth the trip.

Access Issues:

National Park

Approach:

600km north of Perth.

Where To Stay:

Kalbarri has the full range of accommodation options from resorts to backpackers. It is possible to camp within the National Park, if you want to be a little closer to the climbing, although you will need to let the rangers know.

1.8.1. The Z Bend 81 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Sport and Trad

1.8.2. Four Ways 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.8.3. Hawk's Head 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.9. Mount Augustus 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.10. Exmouth 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 114.040706, -21.971858

1.10.1. Pilgonamen Gorge 30 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11. Newman 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 119.678421, -23.368109

1.11.1. Eagle Rock Falls 25 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11.2. Round Hill (Poon Hill) 40 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11.3. Mt Newman Massif 10 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11.4. Eastern Ridge Area 22 routes in Area

Summary:

1.11.5. Stuart's Pool 9 routes in Area

Summary:

1.12. Dampier Archipelago 126 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

Long/Lat: 116.740418, -20.638147

1.12.1. Dolphin Island 62 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad or Sport

1.12.2. Burrup Peninsula 58 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad or Sport

1.12.3. Barrow Island 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.13. The Kimberley 26 routes in Crag

31

1 Buccaneer Archipelago, 3 Kununurra

Summary:

All Unknown

Long/Lat: 125.670034, -16.476812

1.13.1. Buccaneer Archipelago 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 123.823759, -16.242108

1.13.2. Napier Range 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.13.3. Kununurra 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 128.744999, -15.804239

1.13.4. King George River 4 routes in Area

Summary:

1.14. The Stirling Ranges 6 routes in Crag

1

1 Bluff Knoll

Summary:

Mostly Unknown

Long/Lat: 118.037182, -34.391335

1.14.1. Bluff Knoll 4 routes in Area

Summary:

?,Trad

Long/Lat: 118.256528, -34.374407

1.14.2. Coyanarup 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.14.3. Talyuberlup 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.15. Peak Charles 9 routes in Crag

1

1 Central Gully

Summary:

All Trad

Long/Lat: 121.167768, -32.896093

1.15.1. Central Gully 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 121.164612, -32.882048

1.15.2. Spartacus Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.16. Porongurups 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad,Sport and ?

1.16.1. Gibraltar Rock 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad,Sport

Description:

Large north-facing Monolith

1.16.2. Marmabup Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad

1.16.3. Castle Rock 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Unknown

1.17. Pinjarra 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Unknown

1.17.1. Boomer Hill 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.17.2. Boobyer Boulders 0 routes in Area

1.17.3. Oakley Falls 0 routes in Area

1.18. Eaglestone Rocks 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport,Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 118.241812, -31.083224

Unique Features And Strengths:

An extensively bolted granite boulder in the middle of nowhere

Where To Stay:

Camp at base of boulder