Routes in Perth

Solo the slab. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 13 Mar 04

Steep fractioning, slapping and palming up the left side of the arête. 2BR to DBB. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 13 Mar 04

Head towards the slabs on the western side of Schipp Road, opposire Piesse boulders. After 100m you should find a small boulder. The climb takes the crack on the east face. The offwidth on the south awaits big cams and ascent. See Perth Rock Climbing Guide 2nd Edition

Sit start as for 'Bumble'. Reverse the crimpy traverse of 'Finger Hooks' as for 'Bumble Juice' then continue traversing left as for 'Casa Blumpkin' and finish as 'Mr Bump'. Draining!

Jacob K

Just R of 'Ant - icipation' is a gully. Star 1m R of gully. Reach small crack at 4m, place small gear and go to top (tree belay or use belay on Bongo Man).

Not actually on the Solstice Boulder - when facing BoB, Skate Ramp is 6m up the gully behind you.

No stepping R of arete, no using big block to left. Contrived.

As per Perth Rock CLimbing 2nd Ed.

Ascend the North side of the balancing egg-like rock. One bolt

See Perth Rock Climbing 2nd Edition

Traverse right arete and top out left. Maybe a harder project up the left arete

Start up Urban Ethics then branch left into Star Wars. The more common way of doing Star Wars since the rockfall

Link Black Ambience into Rogue State (Perhaps a more obvious start to Rogue State)

The slab 1m right of GC. J. Truscott, M. Rosser, N. Gledhill 31 Aug 03

Climb past the fixed wire left by an unknown first climber, possibly Ron and Ronald Master. J. Truscott, M. Rosser, N. Gledhill 31 Aug 03

The wall 1m left of GC. M. Rosser, N. Gledhill, J. Truscott 31 Aug 03

Solo the crack on the lower boulder right of RC. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 31 Aug 03

The slab with 2BR. J. Truscott, M. Rosser, N. Gledhill 31 Aug 03

Location unclear

Looking at wall the climb and another near it form the outline of Africa. The climb is 6-7 metres long, small to mid size cams required, laybacks and underclings for about a 19/20grade.

Loose blocks at top. Is located at Inner Gosnells Quarry up on the Goatland area in to the left.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/west-africa-crack/

Deceptively overhung with surprisingly good holds, albeit toey and eary, with hard closing moves. Think ahead, travel light and leave your fears behind. 3BR to DBB. M. Rosser, J. Truscott 8 Aug 04

Great moves past 2BR to DBB. Matthew Rosser, Jim Truscott 25 Jul 04

3m left of RB. The mossy wall and slab. Jim Truscott, Matthew Rosser 25 Jul 04

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/darlington-boulders/

The wall two metres left of ETA with BR. 19 Sep 04

Faith 9m 15/16

start as for Come On Pilgrim up to the old piton (yes it was still there last i checked) and continue up the sickle crack on small gear till it tapers out the straight up finishing as for Heatseeker.

Jamie McKeig, Craig Holly ?2002

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/baldwins-bluff-serpentine/

Another variant on Split Personality / Vital Link. Diverges from existing lines at the large ledge halfway up SP. Start either on SP or up the first two BR on Ride of the Valkyries. From SP move right on the large ledge to where the head-high horizontal crack turns diagonally upwards (to eventually form the horizontal break on the ROTV crux). Layback move up the diagonal crack. Traverse left one meter, ignoring the superfluous bolt at knee level, to stand below the shallow open book. Strenuous, balancy move up into the open book finishing as for VL.

FA 6/2/05 Ishmael, M Turner, and 3/4 Peter.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mountain-quarry-trad-among-the-bolts/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/mt-cuthbert-mega-route/

Old Gary Matier project 10m left of the big tree near ringworld. The climb is called Old Fusion grade 27 2pb to lower offs. Hope you enjoy Jay.

The overhang on the detached buttress at the LHE of Wungong Slab. 2BR then top-out. Sequency pull-ups, knee bars and heel hooks.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/wungong-slab/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/buckle-up-spanky/

The Year of the Carrot. 7m 16

The short wall with one BR at the very left hand end of the boulder. J. Truscott. M Rosser 9 Dec 07

The R-trending crack with a bouldering start up overlap. If you can reach the starting holds it is a 15, else bad luck(hence the name). Good trad gear. FA: R.Weiter, A.Separovich, Jul 08.

There is some interesting but easy bouldering behind that boulder: a hand traverse and a crack: warm up amusements.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/microphobia-at-mt-randall/

Right of Toddlers Delight - Barry (16) 10m. up the vertical wall on small wires and cams. not a very good climb and a bit sketchy from memory ! dont remember how i got down either ? theres no loweroff. Stephen King 6/04/02

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/gosnells-quarry-2/

Start up SOD to the obvious break at mid-height. Instead of heading left of the arete as for SOD, break right (and cross the line of Black Ambiance) and head up the obvious leaning corner feature using both the face and the arete of the corner to an exciting finish.

Lower-offs at the top can also be used for neighbouring Animalistic Rage, which has not had lower-offs to date.

WARNING: Same issues surrounding rockfall as the rest of this section of wall (I believe this has lost at least one bolt since the FA)

Logan's description:

"Got the project up the middle of Skywalker wall yesterday (7/3/2011). It was chipped and equipped by Mark Wilson and i got his permission to do it. It starts left of skywalker and goes up the thin face to where the corner block of skywalker used to be. It then goes through the overlap and finishes up premature evacuation. It is awsome technical fingery climbing and a full 30m. Gives your forearms a good pump. Needs some others to attempt it to give an idea of grade as i am not too sure. Could be 28 or 29 but i am leaning towards 29.:

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/03/death-star-29-mountain-quarry-perth.html

A free version of Learning to Fly (though the exact line goes more straight up than LTF)

Logan's description in 2011:

"Finally freed the direct line of bolts Richard kindly put in straightening out Learning to Fly 23 (A0) on the back wall of Mountain Quarry. Has a pretty hard boulder prob at the start (where the A0 move is on LTF) and then another hard boulder at about 3/4 height where the line has been punched straight up over a triangle feature instead of traversing way around right. Hard to grade since its really just two seperate problems which felt about V6/7/8ish? each to me. Be good to hear some comments from others who have tried it."

https://loganclimbsrocks.blogspot.com/2011/05/unchipped-route-in-perths-big-chip-and.html

Climb on the crack only (without using opposite wall to chimney). Its quite strenuous and sustained with the some great moves especially the top half.

Thin crack into one bolt

Start between 'Friend of Easy' and 'Nice And Easy', straight up and traverse right on gear, going up through two bolts

Optional (recommended) gear before first bolt

Shares first bolt with 'The Golden Rule' (trend right)

Shares first bolt with 'Friend of Easy' (trend left)

A long traverse on existing climbs.

Starting from the base of Penthouse, traverse diagonally right all the way across the wall up to the ring bolts of ‘Bumble Sea’. There are about 10 bolts, but with quite a run-out in the middle under the large blast-hole. If you want to, use a long sling (3 metres) and the the bolt in the blast-hole and then come down again. Maybe I’ll put a bolt in someday…

Crux is the last few moves from about the Bumble Aye line up to the ring-bolts, about grade 18 if you keep in the direct line and don’t wimp out and use the stuff right in the corner.

‘Not the Wurst!’ 40 m, grade 18, Phillip and Tracy, and Andvariousothers shouting comments…errr… encouragement in the background.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-climb-at-mq/

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/sent-a-project-at-kalamunda/

Could well be a duplicate of one of the other climbs, will try and work it out next time I'm up there

Chicken Little 10m ungradable. Start under the massive detached flake right of ‘Morning Glory’ and go up heading for the gap at the top. Squeeze through under a second flake boulder and wriggle your way to the exit at the top on the right. Solo. Jonas Hollingworth – Apr 2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/squeeze-problem/

Groovy Moves 5m Gr14 Pete Thomas solo (15 June 2014) Well it has almost as much climbing as some of the other climbs here! Several metres R of Get A Grip, it is an obvious small groove that offers a short cut saving 10m of walking when you are about to walk up around the R end of the crag to access the top. I don’t think there’s any gear, but a spotter should suffice (thanks Richard). Pleasant bridging to a big jug and on to the top.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/major-new-climb-at-lost-world-fern-rd/

Link Up of Infinite Justice into Five Minutes to Midnight.

Start up IJ. At the fourth bolt traverse right just above the level of the roof to a bolt a metre or two above the middle of the roof. From there two more bolts to top-out just to the right of IJ’s finish. The traverse is thoughtful , especially if you have short legs. It’s not a sports clip-up. A long sling is necessary on the bolt above the roof, to reduce rope-drag and to protect the traverse for the second. Also take a nut. Not to place, there is a fat bolt that accepts no bolt-plate. Slide the nut down the cable and press the loop around the hex head. (there was also a discussion regarding the big blocks just below the top, as to whether they’re sound or held in by mud, seemed ok to me).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/link-up-in-boya/

Stand start far left and traverse right on edges to the original. Surprisingly hard!

Follow the thin seam up the right side of the slab. Walk off left once you reach the mud! Could definitely do with a clean.

Two Piece Suit (10m 18) The drill hole between Tally Ho and Remember Nathan, provides a fine climb independent of its neighbours. K Seewraj, R Doe 19/06/21

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/spring-grove-farm-cutting-boomer-hill/

Three Piece Suit (10m 15) Start as for Butterfly Effect ignoring the first bolts and where the Butterfly Effect trend right continue up the drill hole above. K Seewraj, R Doe 19/06/21

Free version of Green Beret

This section of rock is quite snappy and the holds may have changed since the FA

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/first-free-ascent-mountain-quarry/ https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kates-razzle-dazzle/

Follow Boomer Brook 5 mins east of Boomer Crag- large granite outcropStart just left of obvious fault line, head straight on up with good gear pro, up and over a perfectly formed belay ledge to solid natural anchors. Good and grippy.

NW facing end of the crag, obvious wide 'V'. Good protection available for first half of climb, until obvious ledge, then run out to one final piece of gear before solid natural anchors and RBs after top out.

Stand Start then big move up to a V shape feature.

Stand start on tiny rows of crimp. Mainly a 1 to 2 move wonder to a jug to easy ground.

Not sure who is the FA but it looks to have been done before but is not in the topo. If someone knows the name or the FA please let me know and I can change accordingly.

Sweet Pea into Cardio Funk Link Up

Cardio Funk into Sweet Pea Link Up

Alchemist - Bulls Link Up.

Start up Alchemist to the jug rest, then go left to finish up Bulls

Bulls - Alchemist link up.

Direct as crab, an top above crab. Small gear needed.

Extension to High Traverse, starting right at the back of the boulder, traversing on slopers (top of the boulder) and dropping into High Traverse when you reach Mission Ignition.

Sit Start Compression on the end of the back boulder.

One move wonder + Morpho = Classic?

Sit start with hands on the aretes (LH near RH start of Mission Ignition). Slap up using the jugs on Mission Ignition.

Far left of the wall, step up onto 1m ledge, narrow crack in drill hole takes bomber wire pro. Run out after 1st big ledge and loose scramble to top out. Use single RB and 2 x bolts from Tally Ho.

Start 3m left of the V-shaped corner. Up broken corner then keep right on the rock to below overhanging corner. Up this using detached block to gain corner above. Continue to top via the left side of the steep wall above.

Start crouching - move right past the corner - finish by climbing up the second corner. You are allowed to hold the top of the boulder.

Start crouching - move right past the corner - finish by climbing up the second corner. You are allowed to hold the top of the boulder.

Climbs crack and blocks right of Bee Wasp, amble up the blocks toward the top. You went the right way if you maximised the vertical meters of all possible lines.

Chimney behind the block left of route 4. A brave solo by a man hardened by domestic duties

Stepped crack up blocks. Better than it looks. Belayer draws the short straw and should be mindfull what they stand on.

Face climb (leftish) past 2 bolts to 2BB. Pleasant. Enjoy the train honking.

Shares start with prior route (Avonentuly). Needs medium wires/cams. Pleasant once more. Over too soon

Start inside the cleft under the corner. jam and stem your way up the wide corner. Fun.

North side of last boulder/buttress. Starts just right of Antimatter Possum, Climb up left arete past bolts. Tricky stepup which could ruin your day if you don't get it first go.

On the furthest small buttress on the right of the crag. climbs right arete past bolts. Sequency. You know you are on a Perth boulder when climbing this

Standing start - find some nice pinches along the south west edge, and place your feet on a chip along the corner.

Standing start. Find some nice holds on the ridges and place your feet on a chip along the corner.

Super contrived around Gym-like pinch, sit start in little ditch, pull left, slab up, ezpz

Sit Start under the Overhang in counterfeit gods and traverse alongside the back of the boulder left for a meter or so before throwing up to nice long Jug, slight slab for top out. W/ Heel hook variation v4. Toe hook from start makes it a v3