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Summary

Varied climbing (predominantly crack/corner) on rhyolite columns. Climbs range in height from 16m to 52m and in difficulty from grade 12 to 21.

Description

The rock is well weathered rhyolite. The occasional loose flake makes a helmet a good idea. We have found slings useful on a lot of routes. Several tracks have been marked to help with access. (Last visited 15 years ago and scant tape on trees to mark the way down.) THE TRACK DOWN IS VERY STEEP AND ROUTE FINDING WOULD BE DIFFICULT IN 2010, BUT WELL WORTH THE TRIP.

Hope you enjoy the climbing. Rhys Davies, Trevor Gynther (This description/entry taken from an original typed copy of the guide book-John Rigsby-Jones Aug 2010)

From the three times I have been to the cliffs, the first being in 1986 the tape was easily found on the way down. The last trip to the clifffs 5 years later the tape had been very difficult to find with some on the ground then. The slope down is very steep = be careful. The base of the cliff is also steep but safe, walking along the bottom is tricky and requires caution. JRJ

Access issues

The guide book has a map of how to get to the Wafers and a map of the cliffs. I will have this up asap or email fife87@hotmail.com (John Rigsby-Jones)

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

First route from left. All routes listed L to R.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

grade 18 42m * 1st ascent T.G., Robbie McBirney START:the line on the pillar.Right under the roof, belay, then back left onto jugs.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Robbie McBirney

grade 13 30m 1st ascent R.D.,T.G. The hole leads to a delightful chimney.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

1...16 21m the overhang.

2...16 8m The crackabove the tree.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

grade 16 34m 1st ascent RD,TG. Start:The widening crack. 1....16 26m Tree belay 2....16 8m the crack (same as Jatz)

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

1st ascent;TG, Allen Stephens (both led) 10/1974 1....16 19m 2....14 19m Slightly right,then up.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Allan Stephens

1st ascent TG, RD. Oct 1974

1....18 18M Good luck. 2.... 15 22m The right hand line.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

1st ascent RD, TG. Oct 1974

1....13 26m right to belay. 2....16 22m left to impressive crack.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Start: The left hand of the twin cracks.

1....16 23m

2....15 The left hand corner.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1974

1....16 23m Hand crack to a cave. You can traverse right under the roof to avoid the grass trees at the tree.

2....17 17m The right hand line.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1874

Jam Roll variant-(guide book says "A different start"

FFA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

1st ascent: TG and RD Dec 1974

Start: Up a solo chimney 15m right of Jam Roll. Deceptively steep.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Fruit Cake grade 16 27 m 1st ascent RD and TG. November 1974

Start: Beside sesame Wheat

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

grade 15 25m

1st ascent RD and TG. Oct 1974 no description in guide book

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

1st ascent TG and RD April 1974 no description in guide book

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

grade 18 42 m 1st ascent TG and RD. (both led) Sept 1974 Start: The waves of jambing. 1.... 18 32m Tree belay. Hard Jambing. 2.... 14 10m Right near the top.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 19 M2 42m Dec 1974 Three star climb 1st ascent TG and RD. Three nuts for aid at 12m.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 17 42m Dec 1974 1st ascent TG and RD, (both led) Start: The 3" crack corner (3 cracks). 1.... 15 32m Tree belay 2.... 17 10m Left crack.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

grade 14 43m April 1974 1st ascent RD and TG, (both led) and Alan Spendlove.

Start: Chimney. 1.... 14 30m Belay well above the grass. 2.... 14 13m Crack with tree at 6m.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Grade 17 45m Three Star climb 1st ascent TG and RD. April 1974

Start: The chimney and crack corner.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 17 47m June 1974 1st ascent:TG and RD. (both led)

1.... 17 25m The V. 2.... 12 22m Pitch 2 of Crcaker Barrel

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 14 52m Three Star climb 1st ascent RD and TG (both Led)

Start: The Chimney.

1.... 14 25m p the chimney over huge chockstones to small shrub, enter the barrel.

2.... 12 25m Up in the hidden chimney. Can rap from the top of this climb of tree 6m to the left

3... ? 15m to top out Comment: A classic of intrigue.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Grade 14 51m July 1974 1st ascent RD and TG.

As for the Barrel but chimney past the barrel entrance. Pitch 2 is the same. [Excellent 2nd pitch]

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Grade 19 52m 1st ascent TG and Fred From May 1975

1.... 19 39m Faaawk. (bolt runner) 2.... 12 13m Right and up into the easy chimney. [Fred From died on Everest in the mid 90s looking for his friend who had just fallen to his death. Fred would have climbed at the Wafers in bare feet, his way of climbing!]

FA: Trevor Gynther & Fred From

Grade 17 45m Nov 1974 1st ascent RD and TG (both led) and Stephen Bell. 1.... 17 26m Belay in the alcove. 2.... 12 19m Continue up the chimney.

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Grade 20 47m A three star climb

1st ascent TG and RD. May 1975

Left near the top, then up into an eay chimney. Eases after 15m. [This climb begs to be climbed when you see it, just a fantastic line in a great corner.]

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

1st ascent: TG and RD. July 1974 [no description in guide book]

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 12 17m 1st ascent TG and RD. March 1974 [no description in guide book , shown on map only]

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies

Grade 15 16m August 1974 1st ascent RD and TG. [no description in guide book, shown on map only]

FA: Rhys Davies & Trevor Gynther

Location & height of this climb is unknown at this time.

FA: Robert Staszewski & Trevor Gynther

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