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Description

Walk beyond SFH for two minutes passing a large stalagpoo

Access issues inherited from Wingello

Warning! Recently (March 2013) National Parks have erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and several very large boulders placed on the road at the entrance of the memorial. Keep in mind, if you park at the gate there is every chance that another climbing party could park you in resulting in a long stay if you return to your car and don't know where they're climbing.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

Approach

Continue past SPH wall, under big cave past the "Big Poo" feature. The first climbs are about 30m past this...or if starting day here, take western access gully route and walk back towards SFH...its about 100m from base of gully.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 Half Step Sport 8m, 3

A part route, but OK if you want another 18 to do...Up left of crack to ledge.

FA: VW, 2011

2
23 ** Two Step** Sport 20m, 9

Start as for two step and then launch left and up amazing flakes

FA: VW, 2011

3

Laybacking to glory in corner, lower off bolts at ledge

Start: Obvious short corner crack.

FA: A Herdman

4

Up middle of thin slab to flake and anchors.

Start: 1m right of WPE

5
18 Syphilis Lips Sport 9m, 4

Thrighte arete. Start at arete for full value.

6
17 Stuarts Crack Trad 10m

Just right of arete, obvious vertical crack with good holds to its left.

FA: S McElroy

7
16 My Dilemma Sport 10m, 4

Just right of big crack into corner over bulge and up to anchors on ledge 4m right of SC.

FFA: Rod Wills, 2012

8
19 Death Warrant Sport 18m, 8

Start on upper ledge following airy arete. Could be used as second pitch for any of the climbs up to that ledge.

Start: 'Arete' direct above SC.

Set by David Filan, 2012

FA: Ryan Whelan, 2013

9
16 Via My Farter Sport 10m, 4

Up right side of cave to shared lower off on upper ledge. Can be used as alternate 1st pitch to the next climb along.

Start: 1m right of fused round crack.

10
16 The NRL Ladder Sport 40m, 18

Long easy airy slab action

Start: 2m right of VMF

  1. 10m (16) Up obvious big pockets to obvious ledge at anchors.

  2. 15m (16) Up huge featured grey slab, to anchors at ledge From anchors of pitch 1, step leftlt 1m and up.

  3. 15m (-) Closed project, straight up over buldge to slab with tricky finish.

11
Side Project - Rod Sport 15m, 8

Can be alt third pitch for 'The NRL Ladder'. Note: need 60m rope to rap off once done.

Start: From belay at top of pitch 2 for the NRL ladder, left up ramp onto slabby face.

12
16 Mr Perpetual Motion Sport 33m, 13

Can be done in one pitch and lower off a 60m rope (tie a knot in the end just in case)

Start: 2m right of 'The NRL Ladder'

  1. 10m (16) Up easily through scoops, to tricky mantle.

  2. 23m (16) Hardish start, up grey slab following 2mt right of vegetated crack. Step left from anchors and up.

13
Project - Kevin Sport 30m, 15

Up next set of obvious scoops, onto upper ledge then up left side of cave and up airy face. If on 50m rope rap from anchors to upper ledge rap anchors, 60m rope will get you to the ground...just.

Start: 2m rt off MPM.

14
16 X Mediterranean Smile Sport 20m, 10

Up through scoops and vegetation tending right side of cave to more vegetation and up slab. Beware a few loose death blocks still on route, climb with care.

Start: Next set of obvious scoops.

15
16 Precious Slot Sport 7m, 3

Up chimney, then arete.

FA: D Filan, 2011

16
21 * Darkness and Darkness Sport 18m, 8

In shady gully 1m right of chimney. Up diagonally right then up scoops and back towards cave. Be wary of tree at half height.

FA: v wills, 2011

17
16 Need a name dude? Sport 9m, 6

Direct up arete onto right face, tending right at top to shared anchors. Will stay dry in the rain.

1st climb right side of gully.

FA: 2011

18
16 Zip Zip man Sport 9m, 6

Up shallow funnel on bullet hard rock to anchors at top of the cave.

1m right of previous project

FA: 2011

19
16 Misogynist Power Sport 9m, 3

Straight up inverted flake onto face tending right at top to anchors.

Start: 1m rt of ZZM.

20
18 The Guru Sport 9m, 3

Straight up overlap tricky over bulge onto the slab and up to glory.

Start: 1m rt of previous project

Open trips

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