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Description

A wall for the hard dudes. There are more projects then climbs on this wall, but slowly they are being ticked off. 'Monks Lunch' and White Robe are the must do's on this wall.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Wingello

Warning! Recently (March 2013) National Parks have erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and several very large boulders placed on the road at the entrance of the memorial. Keep in mind, if you park at the gate there is every chance that another climbing party could park you in resulting in a long stay if you return to your car and don't know where they're climbing.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

Approach

The big white/orange wall under the descent gully. Walk down the main descent gully (following cairns) and turn left (facing out).

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Spondonicals Sport 8m

The leftmost climb on this wall of gold. Bouldery start (the block is off) to gain wall, couple more moves, clip, then its all over. Yay !

FA: Bundy, 2008

2
20 Studley Sport 8m

Up past massive glue on

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2008

3
24 Vitamin C Sport 10m, 4

2m Left of MP. Easy start then move through bulge to pocket. Head slightly left and up nice featured wall to anchors. Hard !

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

4
24 *** Marching Powder Sport 14m, 6

Start: under the 'column' of rock below bulge. Up column to break then through break past thin moves and some problem solving to jugs. Tend right on slopes and pockets to anchors.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

5
25 *** White Robe Sport 14m

Back by popular demand at 25, could be hardish 24

FA: Simon Vaughan

6
25 *** Monks Lunch Sport 18m, 7

Bouldery start to an almost thuggy bulge to balancy headwall

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2007

7
26 ** Imaginary Friends Sport 18m

Bouldery start, Powerful middle and pumpy finish. what a great pro to work on.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008

9
23 * Old dogs, new tricks Sport 17m

stick clip 2nd bolt, the first is only to keep rope out of way. Up scoop then tricky mantle to techno face climbing and a final mantle before the anchors

10
Open Project Sport 15m

Shared start with Cocaine. Up the hard wall. 8a+ ?? Get on it!

11

Just right of Bear Pit Project, "Up,across and Up"

FA: Simon Vaughan, 2000

12

Start under overlaps just left of the trickling water fall. Up series of flakes to steeper wall and up.

13

The most righward climb on this wall. Just under obvious flake, move up and around this and up he final head wall to chain with quick lower off. Quite sporty up high.

FA: Justin Clark, 2000

14

Straight line to anchors, very hard bottom to technical face

Start: About 3m right of MP

15

Need a cranker to get it done

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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