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Description

Mainly slabby wall at the base of the access gully.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Gulp Road

At the big tree (8.6 km) there is a "dry weather road only" gate. As of June 2016, this gate is locked which adds an extra 15 to 30 minute walk to the fireman's memorial, where the second gate is located.

Approach

Access these climbs by taking the northern track. At end of 'road' Follow the track marked with cairns to access gully. Follow this down easily to bottom of cliff and continue on for 30m or so. The first climbs start here, the rest are around the corner.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 * Air Head Sport 20m

The first route you come to after walking down the descent gully. Way out there moves above the bolts. Take a big pair of knackers with you on this fun jaunt.

FA: 2007

2
22 * Manbearpig Sport 15m

Climb slab to anchors above cave. Extension is still a proejct.

FA: Jamie, 2008

3
23 ** Crux In The Sun Sport 18m

The wall R of Buttocks

FA: Mike Law-Smith

4
22 ** Buttocks Sport 20m

Start just right of the 'Caffeine' Corner. Bouldery start from rings on the right, followed by sustained balancy moves to the top.

FA: Silver Fox, 2007

5
22 * Caffeine Sport 15m

The obvious white rock. Hardish start and blast up the white rock on small but positive holds. Then over small roof to lower offs. 'Extension' is still a project.

FA: Bundy, 2007

6

The extension to 'Caffeine'. Goes to top of cliff.

7
21 * Smiley Face Sport 18m

Left of Cafeine on the darkish rock. Climb thru the smiley to the eye, up and over right. Under small roof to link into Cafeine.

FA: Bundy, 2008

8

The direct finish 2 smiley face, continue up the rounded arete. The bolts are in, somebody just needs to climb it. OPEN

9

The cute little arete just left of SF.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2000

10

The first climb to be put up at the crag. Start: Under roof on right of the wall. Climb up to cave then out left side. Tend right and up to stance and continue up long slab to anchors. Can go direct to first bolt.

Starting beneath the first bolt of NWO, pull off a few bouldery moves to the first bolt. Direct start for NWO.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

11
15 * Slip & Slide Sport 18m, 7

Straight up slab through obvious scoop feature. 7 RB's to lowers offs

Start: 2m lt of NWO.

FA: Kevin van Tilburg, 2007

12
15 * The God Delusion Sport 18m, 6

Straight up through weakness to ramp and up slab. 6 RB's to lower offs

Start: 3m lt of S&S.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

13
18 * Honey Pot Sport 18m, 7

Stright up thin face, onto slab then up. 7 RB's to lower offs.

Start: 5m lt of TGD.

FA: Renato Bombala, 2007

Activity

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