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Description

A fantastic tall wall on orange sandstone. The climbs here are nice and long and slightly overhanging, they stay dry in the rain.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Wingello

Warning! A post was recently put up on Sydney Rockies (March 2013) stating that National Parks have erected a locked gate 200m from the fire fighters memorial and several very large boulders placed on the road at the enterance of the memorial. If this information is true please keep in mind, if you park at the gate there is every chance that another climbing party could park you in resulting in a long stay if you return to your car and don't know where they're climbing. Unless someone does some clearing on the side of the road/track to create some parking you'll have to park on the single lane track also resulting in a long reverse out.

From Sydney: Wingello is about 1 hour from the M7/M5 intersection and the crag itself is about 20 minutes out of Wingello (depending on your car). Wingello is best reached (from Sydney) by busting straight down the Hume Hwy to the turn off just after the Paddy’s River bridge. You can also go through Bundanoon but its probably a bit slower. From Macca’s on the Freeway its 11.5km to the Wingello turn off, and another 8km from there to the Wingello Railway Crossing. Reset your speedo on the railway line or at the shop .

From Canberra:

Reset Speedo at NSW Border on Federal Highway. The BP at Marulan is 110kms or 1hr drive. Wingello turn off is 124.7km or 1hr 10 mins. The railway crossing at Wingello is 131.6km or 1 hr 15mins.

Approach

Access this sector by parking at Car Park 2. Park on the big rock platform. Locate Rock Cairn and and follow the path here (marked with pink tape) to the access gully. Scramble down here on the steel rungs and head left (facing out) past the big cave of choss and onto a large obvious orange wall.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 Candy Sport 20m

10m left of SHC - starts just right of a short arete ... up to the wedged flake and onto the slab.

2

Just left of SHC, beside the chimney - join into sMile High near the top.

3
17 sMile High Club Sport 20m

Ado's 1st FA

FA: Adrian, 2007

4
20 * Armin's Route Sport 20m

the line in between SHC and Ecstasia..pretty new?

FA: Armin Van Buuren

5
23 * Ectasia Sport 28m

Dilation or distention of a tubular structure. Start right SHC. tricky unlikely slab to a nice ornage wall and pumpy finish. has lots of climbing.

FA: Vanessa

6
23 * Fun Police Sport 30m

Up the orange scoopy buckets to long enjoyable wall.

FA: Bundy, 2007

7
21 Pura Vida Sport 20m

Start as for FP. Up for one bolt then step right to right side of scoop. Up this then hand traverse right to gain scoops just left of arete. Climb these to some balancy moves on the arete.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

8
22 Pure Life Sport 20m

Pura Vida Direct Start.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008

9
23 Asleep In The Light Sport 23m

Steep 'Arete' to lead into 'Pura Vida'. Tricky section down low then cool climbing up steep scoops to follow pura vida to anchor.

Start: 2m to the left of Eurphoria

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

10
22 * Opium Sport 26m

Start up 'Euphoria' for a couple of bolts then move left and follow the line of bolts to top of cliff. Another long Euro Enduro.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

11
22 *** Euphoria Sport 20m, 7

Steep punchy start, to great wall climbing on nice pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2007

12
23 *** Supa Fun Happy Sport 20m

Start as for 'Euphoria', then tend righwards to gain the orange scoops. Climb scoops to steeper top section and anchors.

FA: 2007

13
26 ** Ghost In The Shell Sport 31m

Starts 4m right of SFH

FA: Richie Cunningham, 2008

14
23 *** California Sunshine Sport 23m, 11

Start up Supa Fun Happy move right after sixth bolt. Clip bolt on large flake then straight up passing 4 more bolts to lower offs.

FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2007

15
24 ** Happy Days Sport 30m

Nice extension to California Sunshine. First moves the hardest then gets easier phew!!!!!

FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2008

16
24 * Live Wire Sport 40m

Start as for SFH. Climb past 5 bolts to rightward traverse as for CS. Keep heading right to large break then head up through roof to headwall and all the way to top off cliff. There are lower offs near top of cliff or you can top out and use carrots to bring a second up. A good option for this route is to do a two rope jig ala HB on 'Welcome to Barbados'. Climb on one rope to the ledge rest then clip the second rope into a couple of draws and jettison the first. Saves you dealing with rope drag. A 60m rope will just get you to the ground (with stretch)if lowering off but definitely tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Bundy, 2007

17
26 *** The Sweet Escape Sport 15m

Start 4m R of SFH. Climb to white rock on small holds to finish just below cave.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

18
OPEN PROJECT ! Unknown 15m

Perfect rock, awesome line - just too hard for most punters.. Open Project !!

19
19 *** Laced with Crack Trad 20m

The obvious corner. A Classic - Lower Offs Installed.

FA: Bundy, 2007

20
18 ** Drank the Slab Sport 20m

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab that Bon Scott drunk.

'The Slab' to the right of LwC

FA: Bundy, 2007

21
24 * Mr Smiley Sport 22m

Awesome position. Starts from DtS ledge. has a bit of a reputation but the climbing is great. A climactic battle.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

22
22 Superman Sport 10m

Start at DtS anchor. Up, up and away...

FA: Bundy, 2008

23
17 * Iceline Trad 20m

The crack line, behind DtS. Finish as for AT P1.

FA: V Wills, 2007

24
20 * Wild Strawberries Sport 26m

Start as for Arc, straight up thin wall staying out of the crack, continue up to airy finish.

FA: Bundy

25
17 Arc Therapy P1 Sport 24m

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2008

26
19 ** Arc Therapy P2 Sport 17m

Go up from belay on P1. Turn roof with the aid of the left crack.

FA: Kevin Van Tilberg, 2008

27
20 *** Hazy Days Sport 20m

The wall and airy arete up and right of AT P1. Some great moves and stunning position. Some of the bolts are hard to clip.

FA: V Wills, 2007

28
22 ** Austri (pitch one) Unknown 30m
29
18 M1 Austri (batman start) Aid 30m
30
15 Alien (pitch 2) Unknown 20m
31
22 Austri Alien Trad 50m

Stick clip bolt and either boulder start or pull on draw (18A0)

Start: Around corner from 'Hazy Days' at bolt

  1. 30m (22) Hard start at bolt then up bulgy crack with excellent gear to belay at top of Arc Therapy pitch one (easy to top rope from here)

  2. 20m (15) Step right into corner and up

32

The bullet hard white wall.

Start: 4m left of LwC corner

Open trips

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