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Description

A fantastic tall wall on orange sandstone. The climbs here are nice and long and slightly overhanging, they stay dry in the rain.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Gulp Road

At the big tree (8.6 km) there is a "dry weather road only" gate. As of June 2016, this gate is locked which adds an extra 15 to 30 minute walk to the fireman's memorial, where the second gate is located.

Approach

Access this sector by parking at Car Park 2. Park on the big rock platform. Locate Rock Cairn and and follow the path here (marked with pink tape) to the access gully. Scramble down here on the steel rungs and head left (facing out) past the big cave of choss and onto a large obvious orange wall.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 ** Candy Sport 20m

Start under the obvious flake. Climb flake then up to ledge and long black head wall. Continue up this forever to reach anchors

FA: Jason Lammers, 2007

2
18 * Elektrobank Sport 12m

Start at short seem. Head up seem then tend rightward up wall to anchors as for BL

3
16 * Boiled Lolly Sport 12m

Start on wall about 2m left of corner. Short face to anchors.

FA: Rod Wills, 2007

4

Start on wall just left of off width. Head up wall with some bridging and arête climbing. At top veer right to last bolt on SHC and finish at same anchor.

FA: Vanessa Wills, 2007

5
17 * sMile High Club Sport 20m

This route required more battery power to bolt than the hubble telescope has ever used! Start: Just right of the Off width corner. Climb slab past 4 bolts to reach flake. Continue up wall past a few arête moves to gain anchors under roof. There is a decent link up that starts up Ectasia for a few bolts then steps left and finishes up SHC and goes at about 20.

FA: Adrian Child

6
23 ** Ectasia Sport 28m

Dilation or distention of a tubular structure. Start right SHC. Tricky unlikely slab to a nice orange wall and pumpy finish.

FA: Vanessa

7
23 ** Fun Police Sport 30m, 11

Up the orange scoopy buckets to long enjoyable wall. Climb left side of the scoop then through bulge to some sustained climbing. Shake out at the rest then head for the clouds up the scoops to anchors at the top of the wall. 11 bolts and a Thai style runner!

FA: Bundy, 2007

8
21 * Pura Vida Sport 20m

Start as for FP. Up for one bolt then step right to right side of scoop. Up this then hand traverse right to gain scoops just left of arete. Climb these to some balancy moves on the arete.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

9
22 * Pure Life Sport 20m

Start just right of PV. Traverse right under flake then head up steeply to gain scoops. Climb this to join PV at 5th bolt then continue up to anchor.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2008

10
23 ** Asleep In The Light Sport 23m

Steep 'Arete' to lead into 'Pura Vida'. Tricky section down low then cool climbing up steep scoops to follow pura vida to anchor.

Start: 2m to the left of Eurphoria

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

11
22 ** Opium Sport 26m

Start up 'Euphoria' for a couple of bolts then move left and follow the line of bolts to top of cliff. Another long Euro Enduro.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2008

12
22 *** Euphoria Sport 20m, 7

Steep punchy start, to great wall climbing on nice pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2007

13
23 *** Supa Fun Happy Sport 20m

Start as for 'Euphoria', then tend righwards to gain the orange scoops. Climb scoops to steeper top section and anchors.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2007

14
26 * Ghost In The Shell Sport 31m

Start 3m right of SFH start. Up through undercut and into groove. Continue up through bulge then tend right to the anchor as for CS but don’t stop here. Continue above anchor tending right into shallow corner and up to the top of the cliff if you can still hold on.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2008

15
23 ** California Sunshine Sport 23m, 11

Start up Supa Fun Happy move right after sixth bolt. Clip bolt on large flake then straight up passing 4 more bolts to lower offs.

FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2007

16
24 ** Happy Days Sport 30m

Nice extension to California Sunshine. First moves are the hardest then it gets easier, phew!!!!!

FA: Silver Fox; Gavin Murray, 2008

17
24 ** Live Wire Sport 40m

Start as for SFH. Climb past 5 bolts to rightward traverse as for CS. Keep heading right to large break then head up through roof to headwall and all the way to top off cliff. There are lower offs near top of cliff or you can top out and use carrots to bring a second up. A good option for this route is to do a two rope jig ala HB on 'Welcome to Barbados'. Climb on one rope to the ledge rest then clip the second rope into a couple of draws and jettison the first. Saves you dealing with rope drag. A 60m rope will just get you to the ground (with stretch)if lowering off but definitely tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FA: Bundy, 2007

18
26 *** The Sweet Escape Sport 15m

Start off boulder 5m right of SFH. Thin bouldery start leads to pockets and a technical crux. Tend right at last bolt then up to the anchors just under break. The rock on this route is very grampiansesque ie fine grained and as solid as sandstone comes

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

19
** OPEN PROJECT ! Sport 15m

Perfect rock, awesome line - just too hard for most punters.. Open Project !!

20
19 *** Laced with Crack Trad 20m

Start under obvious orange corner crack on right side of wall. This line sucks the smaller sized cams and a variety of wires. Layback up the golden corner to a steep finish. There are lower offs placed at the obvious stance at the top of the orange corner.

FA: Bundy, 2007

21
18 ** Drank the Slab Sport 20m

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab,

Drank the slab that Bon Scott drunk.

'The Slab' to the right of LwC

FA: Bundy, 2007

22
24 ** Mr Smiley Sport 22m

Climb drank the slab to anchors (don’t clip last bolt if you can avoid it to reduce a little rope drag). From ledge lean out and clip first bolt just below the big break. Traverse out easily then mantle onto break and reach back into overhang. Continue up seam and wall through two rooflets. A good airy pumper that has a bit of a reputation but the climbing is great. A climactic battle.

FA: Steve Hawkshaw, 2007

23
22 Superman Sport 10m

Start at DtS anchor. Up, up and away...

FA: Bundy, 2008

24
17 * Iceline Trad 20m

The crack line, behind DtS. Finish as for AT P1.

FA: V Wills, 2007

25
20 ** Wild Strawberries Sport 26m

Start as for Arc, straight up thin wall staying out of the crack, continue up to airy finish.

FA: Bundy

26
17 * Arc Therapy P1 Sport 24m

FA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 2008

27
19 * Arc Therapy P2 Sport 17m, 2

Go up from belay on P1. Turn roof with the aid of the left crack.

FA: Kevin Van Tilberg, 2008

28
20 ** Hazy Days Sport 20m

The wall and airy arete up and right of AT P1. Some great moves and stunning position. Some of the bolts are hard to clip.

FA: V Wills, 2007

29
22 ** Austri (pitch one) Sport 30m
30
18 M1 Austri (batman start) Aid 30m
31
15 * Alien (pitch 2) Sport 20m
32
22 Austri Alien Trad 50m, 2

Stick clip bolt and either boulder start or pull on draw (18A0)

Start: Around corner from 'Hazy Days' at bolt

  1. 30m (22) Hard start at bolt then up bulgy crack with excellent gear to belay at top of Arc Therapy pitch one (easy to top rope from here)

  2. 20m (15) Step right into corner and up

33

The bullet hard white wall.

Start: 4m left of LwC corner

Activity

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