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Description

Most bolts are bash-ins, and now 25-30 years old. Please consider contributing to rebolting.

Approach

30-40 mins walk. Walk across the causeway (usually ankle deep - take shoes off) then follow the nicely graded road up the hill for 5 minutes. Above a left turn switchback there's a big tank, from here you can either leave the road and head R and blast up the hill for 5 mins until you reach the old rail-line ("A"). Alternatively at the tank you can keep following the road left and up the hill at an easier angle to reach the old rail line at the Old Coach Road junction, from where it's an easy flat 500m walk back R (west) along the rail line to point "A". Whichver way you went, from "A" head west along the old rail line for about 300m, crossing a gully with an old railway bridge embankment. About 150m past the gully, look for a climbers' trail which blasts steeply uphill for another 10 mins or so to the crag. You arrive at the left (east) end of the crag, turn R for 100m to the main wall.

Descent notes

For a "trad" crag this cliff has been surprisingly over-equipped with bolted rap chains. When nearing the top of most routes keep your eyes open and there will usually be a rap chain (or three) nearby. If you do need to top out and can't find a good rap point, the cliff gets smaller at the right (west) end, you don't need to go far before there are ample trees to get you down even if you only have one rope and need to do multiple raps.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Andrew Penney & Mike Stacey, 1986

A great slab, finishing at rap chains at half height.

FA: Andrew Penney & Craig Sloss, 1986

FA: Mike Stacey & Dana Houser, 1986

FA: Rohan Reynolds & Pete Taylor, 1977

Excellent. A long relaxing pitch up an aesthetic curving arete.

great climbing

FA: M.Stacey, L.mcmanus & A.Penney, 1986

THE big corner on the left side of the main wall. Apart from the grunty start it's got a surprising amount of similarly graded climbing the whole way. Its a nice long single pitch if you have enough rack. The rap chains on top are strangling the tree - please bring bolt cutters.

very close to conspiracy, good climbing

FA: M.Stacey & L.Mcmanus, 1986

Great sustained face climbing.Start up ramp at BE initials to horizontal (med slcd's) then onto face and up passing 7FH's and one BR , veering right at top to original chains and u-bolt. Rebolted Sept. 2014 (previously 8mm dynas).

FA: Tony Barten, Noel Ward, Mike Peck & Joe Lynch, 1985

Excellent, sustained, varied face climbing on hard water polished stone. Start 7m R of Bartens Effort at large tree. Bridge up tree , clip BR and up to ledge. Thin moves lead left to a desperate mantle. Straight up wall to another hard section by 6th BR. Then left 1m to large hold and fire up wall on small incuts to top. 6BR , 5FH , 2BB + Ubolt. Rebolted Sept 2014.

FA: Mike Stacey, Lorna McManus & Andrew Penney, 1986

One of the better finger cracks in the Wolgan. A superb climb following an excellent line on good rock. If you step left along the ledge to the bolted chains, it's 31m to the ground - a 60m rope just reaches on stretch. Otherwise the route is 45m if you top out.

ugly bolting, good climbing originally done in 2 pitches

FA: A.Penney & M.Stacey, 1986

FFA: J. Smoothy, 1986

Superb technical climbing up a amazing line that is really quite outrageous. Very sustained throughout but well protected.

Look for the rap chains 3m to your left about 5m below the top. There is another set of chains 5m above (!), at the topout.

FA: John Smoothy & Mike Stacey, 1986

A bloody beaut. Takes a lovely line up a big wall. Needless to say the rock is superb and clean.

Suss bolts.

Good, well protected wall climbing. Take wires and small to medium cams.

Activity

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