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Description

Note walking up Western Gully is the quickest way to the Coke Ovens Upper cliffline. It's about 200-300m R of the Sizzler sector - walk straight up hill from the car.

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Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.

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Routes

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A route marred by poor bolting. Has now returned to moss where it counts halfway. Take a full rack of cams. Take care.

FA: Brett Miller & Jeff Allwood

An impressive line and a audacious effort for 1971. Great climbing but most rap off after pitch 2 to avoid pitch 3.

Superb 2 pitch face climb on mixed gear. Mostly bolted.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 2000

Thin face climbing up the superb clean sweep of rock right of The Righteous Brothers

FA: Martin Brown, 2015

Face 5m left of Publish or Perish. Bridge off tree then 5 stainless carrots followed by small to medium natural gear in vertical runnels. At small ledge escape left and up to natural belay. Direct finish difficult to protect, so more bolts and possibly lower offs to be added.

FA: Ben Maddison, Brad Carmady & Greg Mortimer, 2012

Blunt arete on mid level cliff above Body Odour. 9 stainless carrots to ubolt lower offs.

FA: Ben Maddison, Brad Carmady & Greg Mortimer, 2011

A mammoth line. The first pitch is the quintessential corner crack - with great pro and moves and can be done as a classic pitch in its own right. Pitch 2 has some moments finding way through hanging blocks to nice exposed seats ontop of blocks under roof with bomber belay gear a move higher. Pitch 3 is exhilarating and a must do adventure. Pitch 4 starts up a clean corner crack , onto a ledge, pull over the steep bulge and up to a nice belay.

FA: Pete Giles, Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1974

FFA: Roland Pauligk & Pete Canning, 1975

Up the beautiful corner then easier slabby corner.

The first climb to be put up at the Coke Ovens.

Start 12m right of Organ Grinder Variant at small twin corners.

  1. 27m (14**) Up easily to big tree at foot of crack. Follow crack directly up to 3-stemmed tree on good ledge & belay on tree.

  2. 33m (13) Easily up into cave. Move right onto arete, then directly up crack to large tree in crack, Around tree without killing your belayer by dropping rubble, up arete and wall on right to tree belay.

Set by John Dennis & Dave Massam, 1969

Up and right a bit to a rotten cave. Up left edge of cave to a break below a roof. Move left and swing around roof to a corner. Up to glory

FA: Andrew Penney & John Wolgan, 1986

Mixed route on carrots. Take many bolt plates (11!) plus medium-sized cams. To access climb significantly harder routes or new route Virgin Flight (16): starts up Virgin on the Ridiculous crack to bolt then across slab on more carrots to belay on Flying a Kite.

Mixed climbing, three carrots and DRBB. Wires on the first flake, committing move to carrot, then easy up funky feature with threads and carrots all the way. Don't need any cams. Does need a bolt to protect the crux at the start. Retro-bolt of an old death route, should have been retro'd properly.

Stem and crack climb your way to glory.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.

  1. 21m (18) Up steep finger crack corner to ledge. Belay on Cams, wires.

  2. 15m (18) Continue up thin crack and overhang to ledge and belay behind the tree.

  3. 30m (18) Follow the R-facing corner to large bulbous tree. Up the dirty slot behind to a good ledge.

Best to run pitch 3 and 4 together exiting out R around 8 m before the top. Traverse around 10 m to rap chain at the top of 'Dan the Bulldog'

  1. 20m (16) Up corner to top. The last 8 m hard to protect so best to escape R to rap chains (can also escape left to dodgy rap slings around tree)

FA: (13M3): Keith Royce & Paul Edwards, 1971

  1. 18m (19)

  2. 13m (19)

  3. 21m (16)

Start marked DC 7m left of Grunter corner.

P1 - 40m (14). Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Veer right at last bolt to small ledge and 3BB.

P2 - 20m (11) Up slab (2BR) and wide crack above then right to good ledge. Multi BB and chains at top of Dan the Bulldog P2.

FFA: Andrew Penney & Carl-Jean Jagusch, 1986

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

Originally led with a 120 foot rope and two pieces of gear - the tree at 10m and a piton bashed in a hole (removed on second). Andrew Penney unknowingly bolted a similar line going straight up, 'Death-bed Confession'. An ascent of Sod in the original style is no longer possible but its description is preserved below. Start 4m left of Grunter at the foot of an easy angled face (Sod Wall).

  1. 45m (13) Up wall (tree runner at 10m) then up trending slightly left to arete and up to cave. Peg belay.

  2. 15m Up the arete to tree anchor.

  3. 24m Out onto ledge to the left, around nose and up to top. Tree anchor.

FA: Keith Royce, David Massam & Les Ormrod, 1969

Follow corner crack to abseil sling on tree

Fantastic hand crack.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

  1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge.

Most don't bother with the remaining two pitches.

  1. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

  2. 21m (-) Up corners to top

FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974

All the old carrots have now been replaced with rings. This now provides a very convenient awesome single pitch route with rings at the first belay to rap off or continue up the two upper pitches.

One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing.

Start: At marked \\\\'MM\\\\' at large flake crack.

  1. 25m (16) Up flake to top of pedestal. 3BB.

  2. 20m (18) Up wall diagonally L to BR. Continue diagonally L (poor pro) easily to ledge (feel free to add a bolt) then up to ledge with a small tree and 2 rings .

  3. 20m (17) Up to ledge and across 8m L to ledge then up slab and groove on R (2BR) to stance at base of L-facing corner with a small tree and 2BB.

  4. 25m (18) Up corner to cruxy top-out. Tree anchor.

Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock)to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974

  1. 18m (18) Most only do this good pitch.

  2. 21m (-)

  3. 30m (-)

  4. 30m (-)

FA: (14M2) Ian Patterson & Warwick Williams, 1970

  1. 27m (15)

  2. 9m (17)

  3. 13m (-)

FA: Keith Royce & Don Klees, 1971

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 25m (-)

FA: (20M0) Joe Friend & Dick Hain, 1973

The face between the arete of Our Way, and the corner of Back Off (perpendicular to Microcosm). Straight up the face, avoiding the corner/crack and the arete. Thin, balancy, technical moves of boldly spaced bolts. Finish up the arete on the right side of the face (formed when Back Off becomes a chimney).

Black/Grey painted carrot bolts.

FA: A. Mcclain

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