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Approach

If you do one of the routes which top out, there is an easily accessible rap anchor above TBFA. 3 raps (10m, 45m, 35m) from there get you down to the halfway ledge. Keep a swing going on the 45m abseil in order to gain TBFA's 1st anchor, it doesn't need to be much but is critical!

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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The top pitch might be the best on the crag, shame about what it takes to get there.

Start: Start at the corner about 8-10m L of 'Dr Freeze'.

  1. 30m (17) Mild. Up the corner for about 12m then onto the slab and doddle up L for 15-20m to the belay ledge and DRB. Mostly trad plus maybe a carrot or two (stainless glue-in).

  2. 18m (23 M1) Sport. Good 23 climbing up to a couple of stopper moves near the top of the pitch that will be 27+. Pull on a couple of bolts.

  3. 22m (21) Sport. The awesome shallow groove, beautiful sustained moves the whole way on perfect Blueys stone.

FA: Andrew Duckworth & various belayersish, 2000

Maybe the best route in the Wolgan?! Fantastic climbing up a gorgeous face spectacularly perched way up high. Start under the middle of the gorgeous orange face.

  1. 45m (22) Techie thin corner then move a bit R up a long face to the half-height roof, bust L over this to the anchor just above.

  2. 15m (22) Head L.

  3. 20m (22) Up to DRB at the big break under the roof.

Set by Andrew Duckworth & Will Monks

FA: Andrew Duckworthish, 2000

P1 (* 37m 18) to DRB P2 (* 45m 21) Up L to awesome exposed crack through big roof and up sheer wall above. Will earn more stars as it cleans up. DRB. Rap the route: 10m, 40m, 35m.

FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth (alt), 2001

Take a full rack, brackets and a #1.5 Fr for above 3rd bolt. Rap 35m off DRB.

FA: Will Monks & Damien Haines, 2000

The arete 8m R of TBFA. Good climbing, almost worth a star. Rap 45m off DRB. We did pitch 2 but not clean yet, please keep off.

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2000

FA: Andrew Duckworth & Will Monks, 2001

Start: Poxy diagonal crack, mostly slabby, in grey rock, about 100m R of the arete project,

FA: Andrew Duckworth, 2000

Start: The chossy L-facing corner crack just L of the prominent "beak" feature.

FA: Keith Royce & Paul Edwards, 1971

Not classic, and not well protected, but probably the easiest way to top out the upper cliff in this area. Climbed multiple times in the 70s to do big swinging abseils off the "beak" feature near 'Far Queue'.

Start: Start under a chimney/gully/corner thing about 150m R of FQ2, and maybe 100m L of the top of Western 'Gully'. It's marked with a faint old square.

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