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Description

The cliffs on Magic Mountain directly above the Newnes pub. Faces SW so is shady for most of the day. Take care, some climbs have only had one ascent.

Approach

Take the Magic Mountain walking track (same access path as for The Point / Landslide Area) - cross the creek just past the Newnes pub, turn left to the Industrial Ruins and small campground. 50m on left look for rock cairn and tape in trees marking the start of the magic Mountain walk (a good walk in itself to the top of the cliffs with great views and non-climber friendly). Walk up the track for about 20 mins - Desperado Walls are on the right of the track. Leave the track at the first painted arrow for the Lower Cliff, and sidle right around the cliffs for about 400m until you spy the major lines marked "Z".

For the Upper Cliff, continue up the track trhough the shale band (that created the halfway ledge) until you come to a second painted arrow. Scramble carefully here along a vague track until the cliff gets bigger and some major lines are visible.

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.

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