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Description

An average sort of crag by the Wolgan standards, Capertee Creek Cliffs suprisingly rank third after the Coke Ovens and Old Baldy for the number of climbs. From the valley below, the appearance of the crag is hardly likely to leave one transported and breathless.

The cliff, for the most part, faces in a south-easterly direction as it overlooks Capertee Creek. The short section of the cliff at the right hand endhas an easterly aspect and looks down on the Wolgan River and across to Desperado Walls. The climbing area extends from just above the obvious house on Capertee Creek, rightwards for over a kilometer to the start of a long amphitheatre which curves around to join Cooks Cliffs.

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.

History

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This area was developed in the late 1960's & 70's, and has had precious little attention since then, with most climbers focussing on the longer, cleaner routes on Old Baldy and the Coke Ovens.

Routes

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Grade Route

This climb is not described in the 1984 guide.

A fine line that is suprisingly short on protection when you need it most.

Start 100m left of the tree covered amphitheatre at the obvious crack running leftwards up the wall before the cliff sweeps into orange overhangs. At this point you are nearly directly abopve a house in the valley below.

  1. 45m. Up the short broken wall and crack to a tree on ledge. Up around the overhang with a heave ho, then up the marvellous jamb crack. Follow the crack into offwidth, swear like crazy, then up to a large tree. Nut anchor behind.

  2. 12m. Up the fine corner crack behind to tree anchor.

  3. 12m. Scramble up as you will to top.

FA: Rohan Reynolds, Graham Wurth & Peter Taylor, 1977

A lot of scrub detracts from the line, however the jambing on pitch 2 is good. The lower half of the route looks atrocious.

Start 150m right of Idiot Wind at a horribly dirty moss covered wall with acres of bush and scrub covering the lower half of the line. Start on the right side of the tree covered amphitheatre. There is a big scrubby corner capped by a roof at half height about 8m left of the start.

  1. 15m. Wander up broken mossy wall then up over blocks to belay below crack (hidden somewhere inthe mossy scrub).

  2. 36m. Straight up the crack, then left to base of next crack to beat the overhang.

  3. 12m. Follow the crack to the top.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Colin Skinner, 1975

Take large protection.

Start 30m right of Bloodsucker at the entrance to the tree-lined gully. Start behind bushes below corner with small overhang at 15m.

  1. 35m. Up obvious crack line in corner to tree below overhang. Treat tree with care, over the overhang, past second tree to ledge. Belay on tree.

  2. 50m (crux). Up via cave, left wall and wide crack into second small cave. Up inside cave, out to ledge and tree, and then follow offwidth crack, excaping near top by traversing right.

FA: Norm Hodgins & Russell Taylor (alt leads), 1976

Start 80 right of Indecent Exposure and about 6m right of a rotten overhang. A short clean corner can be seen starting about 20m up.

  1. 17m. Solo up right to tree, then up short corner crack to stance below the impressive corner crack.

  2. 30m. Sustained jambing up crack, then right up ramp to tree anchor.

  3. 35m. From thin crack on left, wander up wall to top.

start 90m right of Paean below sloping flake crack under the middle of a short wall with corners on both sides. There is an obvious flake pedestal at the top.

  1. 30m. Up short wall then crack past scrub to top. Up or around flake via lefthand move. Abseil off sling around chockstone. A possible second pitch could be added.

FA: Norm Hodgins & Dennis Ismay, 1976

Start 50m right of Rain Soft at a small overhang 5m right of the edge of a large sandy cave.

  1. 30m. Over block, up through bulge (short left slanting wide crack) and continue up sloping corner / ramp to tree.

  2. Continue up gully to top if you are keen enough.

FA: Unknown

Start 15m right of Anything or Nothing at a right facing corner crack.

  1. 14m. Up crack to tree in crack. A second pitch up the wall may be possible. This would increase the grade.

FA: Russell Taylor, Norm Hodgins & Dennis Ismay, 1976

Strenuous. Start 30m right of Golden Jaffle at left slanting crack and curving flake.

  1. 11m. Up crack then around flake and up to tree anchor. A couple more pitches could be added up a corner gully.

FA: Dennis Ismay (Seconds felt the call of the pub), 1976

Start 50m right of Geordie Boy on the right of a rotten overhang and sandy cave.

  1. Up chimney to tricky exit at top. Tree anchor.

FA: Russell Taylor, Norm Hodgins & Dennis Ismay, 1976

start 20m right of Classic Chimney in a wide chimney.

  1. Walk up to back of chimney, then straightforward chimneying to chockstone anchor

  2. Continue chimneying to small cave

  3. Continue on. The last few metres are severe climbing up a semi-overhang.

FA: Fred Kitchener & Alan Bailey, 1962

Start 50m right of the Mouse Trap Chimney at a crack running straight up the middle of the wall.

  1. 30m. Up crack to tree anchor below large boulder. This pitch is harder than it appears from below.

  2. 10m. Up boulder, moving diagonally right to tree anchor below wall with layback crack in right corner.

  3. 30m (crux.) Up wall, then traverse right across to position above the overhang at top of layback corner. Up crack and traverse right onto wall. On to tree anchor.

FA: Norm Hodgins & Ian McNichol (alt leads), 1976

start 120m right of Mariner One at a chimney in a right facing corner. 6m left of this chimney is a steep rotting orange wall.

  1. 30m. Up chimney past chockstones and continue as you will to the top.

FA: Keith Royce & Norm Hodgins, 1976

Start 120m right of Anti-Cancer on a short wall below an offwidth crack up the wall.

  1. 30m. Up short mossy wall and crack to offwidth. Straight up the crack with sling protection. Continue as you wish to the top.

FA: Unknown

Start 40m right of Mysterious Jamb Crack at a crack running up a yellow patch of rock to a small ledge at 10m. From the platform there is a slanting chimney/groove going slightly left.

  1. 30m (crux). Up crack to small ledge. Up slight overhanging offwidth, over lip, and into chimney/groove. Continue up and exit chimney at wide section.

  2. 16m. Scramble up left, then up crack and slab. Block and nut anchors

  3. 25m. Left into gully to steep slab on right. Up slab without any protection (don't use groove at rear). Belay on blocks. You now have an excellent view of the pub.

FA: Russell taylor & Norm Hodgins, 1976

Start 20m right of Inch Up, in the left facing black corner, to the left of the overhanging cliff section.

  1. 25m. Up the corner, and around to the right of roof. Belay on sticks or large chocks.

  2. 10m. Step right into higher cave, then out right. Belay near the sandpit. 16m. Wriggle up into the rotten, bottomless squeeze chimney. From the top, traverse right and belay in the cubby house. PLeasant valley views.

  3. 5m. Up crack and rib to the top.

FA: Wilbur King & Ross Templeton, 1977

Start 30m right of Orange Pekoe around the buttress in a small corner. This is the lefthand side of the plinth.

  1. Up the corner and over the top. Belay near cave and chimney.

  2. Straight over the break and up the righthand chimney as you will to top.

FA: Julie Tullock, Laurie Lovelock & Bill Andrews, 1973

A fair enough climb. Start 8m right of In Honour of the Occassion on the righthand side of the obvious plinth.

  1. Up easy corner to top of plinth then up lefthand chimney. Now easily up left to tree anchor.

FA: Roark Muhlen, Colin Skinner & Dave Miller, 1974

20m right of H'Goony in an open corner on the lefthand side of the next large obvious plinth. The base is surrounded by casuarina trees.

  1. 24m. Up the crack to tree anchor.

  2. 24m. Left and back into corner, then up layback crack to obvious ledge. Continue up final crack to top.

FA: Edward Batty & Kevin Westren, 1961

An enjoyable flake climb. Start 5m right of Hop on the other side of the plinth.

  1. 24m. Straight up the flake to ledge and tree anchor. Watch the honeycombed rock on the right wall.

  2. Follow corner to top as per Hop.

FA: Pete Taylor & darryl Brownsley, 1974

Enjoyable (?!) offwidthing and chimneying on not so good rock. Large tubes required.

Start 30m right of Jump in a n orange corner.

  1. 22m. Up blocks to base, then straight up to bridging stance in chimney.

  2. 15m. Up chimney, following left to top.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Jim Schwalbach, 1975

Not exactly child's play! A good introduction to jambing.

Start 40m right of Bertha Butt Boogie, around the arete and just before the next corner.

  1. 20m (crux). Up crack, jamb around the bulge, and up wall above to the base of the chimney.

  2. 10m. Up chimney to huge roof, and wander easily past this to the top.

FA: Mike Law & Colin Skinner, 1974

Good, classic crack climbing with good protection.

Start 1m right of Kindergarten Crack in corner.

  1. 20m (crux). Up the wide corner using thin cracks for protection. Jam anchors.

  2. 10m. Wander rightwards up the easy slabs to bush anchors.

FA: Mike Law, Pete Taylor (alt leads) Roark Muhlen & Rob Denny, 1974

Taking the easy way through a spectacular overhang, the climb encounters a stiff upper lip.

Start 30m right of Children's Corner in the recess with large fallen branches, there is a corner with 2 cracks in it. There is also an obvious large tree int he corner about 6m up.

  1. 35m (crux). Up corner to ledge then follow crack to roof. Out through roofs to belay just above.

  2. 20m. Up ridiculously easy chimney behind to top

FA: Mike Law & Rob Denny, 1974

Start on knobby wall 3m right of Pukkah Sahib.

  1. 30m Climb the wall using small runners for protection. Steep.

FA: Phil Breheny & Pete Warner

Looks pretty worthless.

Start at a short crack / corner 2m right of White Roo.

  1. 324m. Up 6m long crack and into chimney / gully. Up to ledge.

FA: Steve Prothero & Luke Matachek

A very nice climb for beginners.

Start 20m right of Piece of Cake just past the large sandy cave in a right facing corner.

  1. 25m. Follow corner to flakes, then layback around to the ledge. Tree anchor.

  2. 5m. Scramble up short corner to the top.

FA: Pete Taylor & Steve Prothero etc etc, 1974

A chimney of sorts.

Start 50m right of Span Watusi at a gully with a large fallen log at the base of it. Scramble up 5m to start.

  1. 20m. Stroll up gully, then straight up chimney on the left as you like.

FA: Wayne Holgate & Roark Muhlen, 1974

A rather stiff little climb.

Start 50m right of C'Goony at a small corner, just past a rotten sandy cave and overhang.

  1. 25m. Up easy corney to bulge. Over bulge and easy crack above to tree anchor.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1974

An interesting showpiece crack.

Start 25m right of Fabulon on arete.

  1. 40m. Up arete then traverse right to base of the clean crack coming out of the corner. Up crack and then arete to tree anchor.

FA: Mike Law & Steve Prothero, 1974

a good easy route, like Amen Corner at 50 degrees. An excellent beginner's climb.

Start 1m right of Dinner Ale Double Direct at a clean easy right facing corner.

  1. 35m. Up corner, jugs galore, hand jambs, anything, over steep bulge to top.

  2. 10m. Up to top.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Fletcher, Rob Denny & Steve Prothero, 1974

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