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New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there.

Bolts are glue in stainless steel requiring bolt brackets. Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day

Access issues

Down stream from the Coal Mines. Drive 2.4km past the ford for the Coal Mines and park on side of the road. Walk down to the Wolgan river ( 1min walk) and cross over a log then up the hill side until you reach the Newnes Ruins/ Glow worm trail (5min). Cross trail and continue up broad spur till you reach the cliff line (20min). Now head right approx 50m until you can scramble up through the cliff line via a handline. Continue up to main cliff line where the path of least resistance where you should find Flakeation.

There is an abseil point 2UBB approx 10m West of top out of The Badlands. 40m abseil to ledge, then abseil off 2BB 30m to ground. Descents of routes are listed.

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.


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Grade Route

Start at small thin corner. Double set of cams including a #4 and 5 cam essential, small to micro cams handy plus a set of wires.

P1: 25m 20 - Up corner for 15m, #4 cam then hand traverse left to ledge. Up wall #5 cam, the tend left past bolt to crack. Follow crack to ledge and tree belay.

P2: 35m 18 – Small wire protects move off ledge, up wall past BR, medium wire then 4 more BR to ledge. Small cam then hand size cams in blocky corner on right. 4 more BR then another 0.4 cam to top. Belay off small eucalyptus. From the belay you can rap 35m to the tree belay on pitch one then 20m to the ground. Otherwise Walk to the rap point just past the Badlands.

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 2 May 2017

Start off 15m high ledge system 5m left of the Badlands. Access by scrambing up through small cave and scramble up easy wall (grade 5). Start off pedestal 5m left of The badlands at single BB.

Up wall past 0.4 cam to flake system. Follow this past 2BR then traverse out to arête. Up arête past 4 BR, # 2 cam in horizontal break, sling horn on the arête, BR, 0.75 and # 1 cam and medium wire to 2bb. Rope stretching 35m rap to ledge then 20m rap to ground off single carrot (byo plate and snap link) otherwise scramble back down.

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 13 Jul 2017

5m right of cave and 3m left of Off limits. Climbed ground up onsite. The bolts placed on lead were off set thread bolts which have since been removed and replaced by stainless glue in carrots.

70m 21. P1: 25m 19 – Up thin corner to ledge. Through bulge to small cave. Continue up wide crack to belay were the crack steepens. BR plus save a #3 and 4 cam for the belay.

P2 25m 21: Continue up crack system, Small cams and wires essential to alcove and 2BB. You can traverse left from the belay for 8m to the rap point for Arete central and do 2 raps to the ground or continue up pitch 3.

P3 20m 16: Up short chimney to ledge and eucalypt. Continue to top. Tree belay.

3m right of TB. 35m 18 – Up nice water polished corner to sandy scoop. Awkward moves to roof then up corner to tree belay. Most parties rap off 5m right of tree belay back to ground. Double rack of cams plus #5

FA: Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 11 Jul 2017

Start 2m right of Off limits. Up wall to stance, traverse out left past BR to arete. Blast up puppy arete to ledge and then to top.

Not fully equiped yet so please stay off. Starts 1m left of Acoustic Corner.

Set by Hugh Ward

5m right of OL. P1: 25m 20. Thin crack leads into nice corner. Hard move to gain thin crack at the start, up to ledge then follow pleasant corner into chimney and up to ledge. Tree belay. Most people rap off after P1 unless you want to continue to the top.

P2: 15m 14. Up behind trees to next ledge. Tree belay.

P3: 40m 16. Up corner to ledge. Step out right onto wall and follow to the top. Small cams handy 0.3 and c3’s

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 12 Apr 2017

Up obvious flake to ledge

FA: George Wilkinson & Tom

Follows a good line offering interesting hand jamming in the central section. Take a good supply of medium/large cams and hexes.

Start in shallow right facing corner which is a bout 15m right of an easy looking blocky chimney/corner. Approx 1km West of The Badlands.

Scramble up 10m to tree anchor on triangular sandy ledge.

Up short slab then hard moves (crux) bridging past BR and then up corner being carful of several loose blocks and Boris the spider!. Abseil off tree.

FA: Andrew Penny, 1984

Cool "shark fin" looking corner system on the upper cliff line - see photo above. "Enjoyable, dunno if I'd bother repeating it. Cool adventure though" Hugh Ward.

The route can be accessed via a half way ledge from the West. Quite a long walk for one route, but there is plenty of potential for further routes. Can be seen from the road.

FA: Hugh Ward, Bridie Campbell & Tom, Aug 2017


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