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New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there.

Access issues

Further access details to come when routes are finished ;-)

There is an abseil point 2UBB approx 10m West of top out of The Badlands. 40m abseil to ledge, then abseil off 2BB 30m to ground.

Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.


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Grade Route

Start at small thin corner. P1: 25m 20 - Up corner for 15m, #4 cam then hand traverse left to ledge. Up wall #5 cam, the tend left past bolt to crack. Follow crack to ledge and tree belay.

P2: 45m 18 – Up wall past numerous bolts and natural gear to top. Walk to the rap point just past the Badlands.

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 2017

Start off 15m high ledge system 5m left of the Badlands. Access by scrambing up through small cave and scramble up easy wall (grade 5). Start off pedestal 5m left of The badlands at 2BB.

Up wall past 0.4 cam to flake system. Follow this past 2BR then traverse out to arête. Up arête past 4 BR, # 1 cam in horizontal break, sling horn on the arête, 0.75 and # 1 cam and wires to 2bb. Rope stretching 30m rap to ledge then 20m rap to ground.

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 2017

5m right of cave. 70m 21. P1: 25m 19 – Up thin corner to ledge. Through bulge to small cave. Continue up wide crack to belay were the crack steepens. 1 bolt and #4 cam.

P2 25m 21: Continue up crack system to alcove and 2BB.

P3 20m 16: Up short chimney to ledge and eucalypt. Continue to top. Tree belay.

3m right of TB. 35m 18 – Up nice water polished corner to sandy scoop. Awkward moves to roof then up corner to tree belay. Most parties rap off 5m right of tree belay back to ground.

FA: Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 2017

Start 2m right of Off limits. Up wall to stance, traverse out left past BR to arete. Blast up puppy arete to ledge and then to top.

5m right of OL. P1: 25m 20. Thin crack leads into nice corner. Hard move to gain thin crack at the start, up to ledge then follow pleasant corner into chimney and up to ledge. Tree belay. Most people rap off after P1 unless you want to continue to the top.

P2: 15m 14. Up behind trees to next ledge. Tree belay.

P3: 40m 16. Up corner to ledge. Step out right onto wall and follow to the top. Small cams handy 0.3 and c3’s

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 2017

Up obvious flake to ledge

FA: George Wilkinson & Tom

Follows a good line offering interesting hand jamming in the central section. Take a good supply of medium/large cams and hexes.

Start in shallow right facing corner which is a bout 15m right of an easy looking blocky chimney/corner. Approx 1km West of The Badlands.

Scramble up 10m to tree anchor on triangular sandy ledge.

Up short slab then hard moves (crux) bridging past BR and then up corner being carful of several loose blocks and Boris the spider!. Abseil off tree.

FA: Andrew Penny, 1984


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