Showing all 39 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
20 | ★★ Home by six
Start at small thin corner. Double set of cams including a #4 and 5 cam essential, small to micro cams handy plus a set of wires.
FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 2 May 2017 | 70m, 2 | |||
22 | ★★★ Knights of Cydonia
Follows a series of flakes and cracks. Both pitches at 22 the first is technical and the second more powerful. Starts off the same ledge as Arete central. Sling large block for belayer.
FA: Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 19 Sep 2018 FFA: Marty Doolan & hugh sutherland, 23 Sep 2018 | 60m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★★ Arete Central
Start off 15m high ledge system 5m left of the Badlands. Access by scrambing up through small cave and scramble up easy wall (grade 5). Start off pedestal 5m left of The badlands at DBB. Up wall past 0.4 cam to flake system. Follow this past 2BR then traverse out to arête. Up arête past 4 BR, # 2 cam in horizontal break, sling horn on the arête, BR, 0.75 and # 1 cam and medium wire to 2bb. Rope stretching 35m rap to ledge then 20m rap to ground off DBB, otherwise scramble back down. FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 13 Jul 2017 | 35m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★★ The Badlands
5m right of cave and 3m left of Off limits. Climbed ground up onsite. The bolts placed on lead were off set thread bolts which have since been removed and replaced by stainless glue in carrots.
FA: Hugh Ward, Marty Doolan & Bridie Campbell, 14 Apr 2017 | 70m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Off Limits
3m right of TB. 35m 18 – Up nice water polished corner to sandy scoop. Awkward moves to roof then up corner to tree belay. Most parties rap off 5m right of tree belay back to ground. Double rack of cams plus #5 FA: Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 11 Jul 2017 | 40m | |||
20 | ★★ The road to hell
Start 2m right of Off limits. Up wall to stance, traverse out left past BR to arete. Blast up puppy arete to ledge and then to top. FA: Hugh Ward & George Wilkinson | 35m | |||
20 | ★★ Trump Wall
Starts 1m left of Acoustic Corner. Great Climbing up a beautiful wall and great rock. Take a single rack with a extra number 2. Set: Hugh Ward FA: Hugh Ward & hugh sutherland, 29 Sep 2019 | 30m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Acoustic Corner
5m right of OL.
FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 12 Apr 2017 | 80m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★★ My First Time
Start at the seam right of Accoustic Corner. Up this for 2m then right onto face following bolts and gear to gain amazing tapered splitter crack. Up this to 2BB. Rap to ground (better option) or continue up Acoustic Corner. FA: hugh sutherland, Bridie Campbell, Hanna Kallweit & Hugh Ward, 25 Aug 2020 | 32m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Mach Schnell
Initially led ground up, without pre-inspection. Start at the scoops about 10m right of Acoustic Corner at a small pile of discarded holds - don't be put off by these. Surprisingly well protected using natural placements throughout, take 2 sets of wires and a double rack of small to medium cams. Originally led in 4 pitches, though the below might be a better method.
Descent: walk left to 2 RBB rap station, 32m rap to next station, then 35m to ground at the bottom of Road to Hell. FFA: Hanna Kallweit & Hugh Ward, 25 Aug 2020 | 70m, 3, 1 | |||
17 | ★★ Flake-ation
Start 50m right of Acoustic Corner. Up obvious flake to ledge. Second pitch-" Back to work " step right of belay up small corner then tend back left to large ledge. Is recommended that you abseil of after first pitch as the second is rather full on.... FA: Hugh Ward & hugh sutherland FA: Hugh Ward, George Wilkinson & Tom | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Dirty Sally
Nice hand crack to start into some less attractive looking rock. FA: George Wilkinson & Tom | 70m, 3 | |||
17 | ★★ Fog of war
Big chimney then nice hand crack. 2 x 30m pitches FA: Hugh Ward, George Wilkinson & Tom | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Cor anglais
Star 3m right of FOW. Diagonal crack to ledge. FA: Hugh Ward | 25m | |||
18 | ★★★ Mysts of time
Awesome hand crack!! A big whopping 50m pitch. 10m right of big chimney which is Fog of war and 3m right of scrubby unclimbed corner system at left leaning hand crack. Take plenty of hand size pieces 4x #2, 3x #3's and 2 x #4's as a minimum plus your usual rack. Climb hand crack through small rooflet at 25m to a wide section. Continue to top. Tree belay. FA: Hugh Ward, George Wilkinson & Tom | 50m | |||
18 | ★ Veil of Ignorance
Another great climb, was done ground up with both Hugh's "yoyoing" the first pitch. Start 30m right of "Mysts of Time" on small pedestal.
FA: Hugh Ward & hugh sutherland, 11 Sep 2020 | 75m, 2, 3 | |||
17 | Zoser
Follows a good line offering interesting hand jamming in the central section. Take a good supply of medium/large cams and hexes. Start in shallow right facing corner which is a bout 15m right of an easy looking blocky chimney/corner. Approx 1km West of The Badlands. Scramble up 10m to tree anchor on triangular sandy ledge. Up short slab then hard moves (crux) bridging past BR and then up corner being carful of several loose blocks and Boris the spider!. Abseil off tree. FA: Andrew Penny, 1984 | 40m | |||
16 | Fear of Council
Start 20m left of Glockenspiel Crack at low angled blunt arete.
FA: Greg Mortimer & Brad Carmady, 14 Jun 2021 | 55m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Glockenspiel Crack
1
17
2
19
60m to the right of Zoser, look out for a striking rightwards diagonal crack splitting the headwall.
FA: Bridie Campbell, andrew stevenson & Hugh Ward, 22 Apr 2017 | 60m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Forgetful
Named because the Jesse forgot most of his climbing gear. Start 10m right of Glockenspiel crack. P1. 10m.Up small open book corner for 5m to ledge and belay 5m to the right at good stance. P2. 25m. Straight up crack through chimney into awesome hand crack. Belay in chimney. P3. 35m. Continue up chimney and crack. Rap off tree as for TWTLD FA: Jesse Adams & hugh sutherland, 13 Sep 2018 | 70m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Dairy Heroin
Nice climbing but a tad serious.
FA: Jesse Adams & hugh sutherland, 13 Sep 2018 | 70m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ The Penguin
Start 50m right of This water tastes like diesel. Thin corner with two carrots at the start. FA: Hugh Ward & Bridie Campbell, 1 Jun 2017 | 60m, 3, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Cries of a Whipping Boy
Start at arete to the left of 'Cave Diving'. Another classy addition to the area.
FA: hugh sutherland & Hugh Ward, 1 Oct 2020 | 60m, 2, 7 | |||
19 | ★★ Cave Diving
Start just before large corner and 30m before Mouseland. First pitch (18) Up twin seams to awesome hand crack. First pitch finishes at a stance with some fixed hexes Second pitch (19). Wide Crack with featured face holds. Wide gear and some small stuff. Finish at fixed sling. Abseil off. FA: Brad Carmady, Greg Mortimer & Ben Maddison, Jul 2020 | 18m | |||
15 | Snowflake
Potentially quite dangerous. Start at the splitting crack to the right of the big corner under the obvious roof. Up this to tree, better than it looks. Into corner system on left and up through limestone-esque cave features to horrifying shield. Gingerly commit to shield then awkward moves into chimney and up to bolted anchor. It would not be pretty if this shield dislodged with belayer below. There is a pitch (open project) above this that looks quite good, although it was too wet to climb it on our visit. Previous high point (just below shield) set by Brad Carmady. | 45m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Mouse Land
Start approximately 100m right of Glockenspiel Crack at obvious overhanging hand crack in yellow rock. Up crack until it widens significantly at a stance. More dignified to move left onto the face to use some unprotected but big holds to the ledge, rather than grovelling up the offwidth. Great climb. A large thread on the ledge allows an easy descent. FA: hugh sutherland & Hugh Ward, 29 Sep 2019 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Via Appia.
Described by Statius as "the queen of long distance roads" the construction of the Appian Way commenced in 312 BC and served as a supply route for troops and supplies during the Samnite Wars. As a long straight clean line this is one of the more efficient ways to gain the 1/2 way ledge for anyone wanting to inspect the tougher routes prior to climbing. The line commences about 10m Right of Mouse land and 20m Left of Interregnum. Follow the rightmost of the 2 cracks through a bulge and onto a blunt arête. Directly up the sea of rock on the arête through mixed gear, beautiful holds and fabulous exposure. The last 5m off the ledge to the anchor is climbed via the small arete past 1 BR to tree belay. Take: 8 bolt plates, at least 2 x .5 and 2 x .3, offset nuts are good (keep a blue for the headwall), otherwise a single rack should do. FA: Hugh Ward & hugh sutherland, 22 May 2021 | 55m, 8 | |||
22 | ★★ Durum Via.
Durum via - hard road. Bring your big boy pants . Great face climbing completely on gear. Start 20 to 30m right of 'Mouseland' at top of small rise. Up groove with seem for protection. Continue up vague groove feature to left side of roof at 2/3 height. Up flake then wall to top. Take care. FA: hugh sutherland & Hugh Ward, 22 May 2021 | 55m | |||
20 | ★★ Interregnum
Stunning blunt arete immediately left of "Just Don't Be Weak". Mega classic pitch and a must do of the crag! Requires 15 bolt plates as well as a single rack of cams from .4 to 2 and a set of wires. Step into the line from left side of arete. Rap down from large tree at half way ledge. Doubles get you to the ground, or a single rope reaches the anchors at "Just Don't Be Weak". FA: hugh sutherland & Hugh Ward, 10 Sep 2020 | 55m, 15 | |||
18 | ★★ Just Don't Be Weak
Outstanding climbing, probably one of the "Must Do's" at the crag, despite it's shorter length. Stemming corner problem with small gear down low. 2 sets of nuts are worth considering, as is a #4 for up high. Follow the thin crack until it widens to off width, then look for gear and holds on the face. 2BB at the top of this pitch. A rope stretching 30m abseil to the deck. An attempt was made on the corner above, but abandoned after 15m due to loose rock, reduced rock quality, and the proximity of more desirable climbing. FA: Hugh Ward, Bridie Campbell & hugh sutherland, 26 Aug 2020 | 30m | |||
21 | ★★★ The house Jack built
The fused corner the right of just don't be weak. Start behind large tree. 3 BR's to #3 Camalot then up and left into fused corner. Excellent stemming past good but small wires and cams. DBB FA: Marty Doolan, Hugh Ward, hugh sutherland & Bridie Campbell, 7 Jun 2021 | 30m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Tears of the sun
Start 10m right of The House Jack Built in small alcove. Bring plenty of finger size pieces as its quiet sustained in that size. Climb the rotten corner for a meter or so then up onto wall past two horizontal breaks which take cams. Keep moving up till your feet are in the second horizontal and make a hard move out to arete, BR then up to base of corner. Steeply up finger crack corner for 25m to large ledge. Climb slaby corner on the right to tree belay. FA: Marty Doolan, Taib & Hugh Ward, 26 Jun 2021 | 45m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Had Me in Stitches
Start approximately 100m right of 'don't be Weak' at tall finger sized stemming corner. A mega pitch and classic wolgan heady climbing. Follow corner all the way to tree belay. Being solid at the grade is recommended. FA: hugh sutherland & Bridie Campbell, 8 Sep 2020 | 55m | |||
19 | ★★ Smoking Clutch
Up shallow corner, crack then finger seem to thread. Then wall to top. Bring extra in small gear. FA: hugh sutherland & Levi Worden, Feb 2021 | 50m | |||
17 | ★ Blinded by the White
Named as such because of the pasty shirtless climbers in the area on the first ascent. Start 50m right past 'Had me in Stitches'. Double cracks at left of wall. Climb right crack until they converge, continue till crack ends then out left and up. Awesome position. Tree anchor. Two ropes required to get Down. FA: hugh sutherland & Bridie Campbell, 8 Sep 2020 | 45m | |||
14 | ★★ Blue Mountains Has Talent
Climbs the crackline 5(ish) metres right of Blinded by the White. Splitter crack up the wall, although the climbing tends to make use of the face holds, belay at big tree to avoid loose 1/2 way ledge. A lovely line. Rap 42m from the tree to the ground. FA: jacinde Jackson, Justine Jenkins & Hugh Ward | 42m | |||
18 | ★ Plan A
Lovely but committing face climbing up to crack line 1/2 way up the wall, initially climbed on sight and ground up, so the grading and star may need some verification. Start on the face a couple of metres right of Blue Mountains Has Talent, up past large cams (4 and/or 5) in horizontal at top of block and then onto face. Past bolt and adequate wire as well as slung chicken heads to small cams (0.5 or 0.75) in horizontal break, continue to the base of finger crack. Follow crack to high tree anchor. 42m rappelled from this tree. FA: Hugh Ward, jacinde Jackson & Justine Jenkins, 8 Sep 2020 | 42m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Merlin's Wrath
Begin on the far right-hand side of the wall where "Blinded by the White" is the first crack system. Go up the hill until you are 10 meters from the corner, and you will see a crack with a small plant at 1/3 height and an off-width slot about half way up. Bring plenty of medium-big gear: 3 number 3's and a single 5 are not the worst idea in the world...The tree sitting right above the line is unfortunately dead and has been burnt, so either traverse awkwardly 4 meters left to only decent tree around to belay, or go way back over the edge to larger tree behind the first dead one. Take care not to kill your belayer in the process of reaching an anchor tree. Requires two 60 meter ropes to get down and some shenanigans. FA: Justine Jenkins, Hugh Ward & Jacindie Jackson, 8 Sep 2020 | 42m | |||
17 | ★★ Shark Fin crack
Cool "shark fin" looking corner system on the upper cliff line - see photo above. "Enjoyable, dunno if I'd bother repeating it. Cool adventure though" Hugh Ward. The route can be accessed via a half way ledge from the West. Quite a long walk for one route, but there is plenty of potential for further routes. Can be seen from the road. Almost directly above The house jack built. FA: Hugh Ward, Bridie Campbell & Tom, Aug 2017 | 40m |
Showing all 39 routes.