Hotdog Walls All Trad climbing14 routes in crag
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A new climbing area on the rim of the Wolgan Valley. One hour five minutes drive from Katoomba and a flat 20 minute walk along a ridge with crazy pagoda rocks. 14 routes in total from grade 11 to 23.
Rap in and climb out. Take a few rope protectors. All routes start from ledges or semi hanging stances. Mixed gear routes. You will need a rack of wires and friends #00 to #4 with doubles of #1 #1.5 Bolts are glue in stainless steel bolts requiring bolt brackets. Plus one carrot Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day!
Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains
The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.
Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.
Grid references are from Topographical Map – Cullen Bullen 2nd Edition Access 1: (2wd) Find your way to Bungleboori picnic area on the Glowworm Tunnel Rd, Newnes Plateau. Reset your odometer and turn left into Sunnyside road. At 2.6km the road splits. Take the left road which is Blackfellows Hand Fire Trail. Follow this until 13.7km where the road starts to go downhill and left, there is a small parking bay on the left with a small gum tree (GR 333088). Access 2: (2wd most of the time if you have a bit of clearance) Turn onto Blackfellows Hand Fire Trail a km before Wolgan Gap. Drive for 3.3km As you drive up a hill covered in waterbars, it will turn rightward, there is a small Carpark on the righthand side. Opposite the Carpark is a ridge heading north covered in pagoda rocks. Follow cairns and marked track along ridge to GR 330099. Comfortable 20 mins walk. The track begins by following a motorbike track for about 50m, which then veers left. Look for cairns at the base of a couple of gum trees going straight ahead along the ridge. The cairns weave in, around and over the pagodas for a few hundred metres then continue along the ridge.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
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