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Description

A new climbing area on the rim of the Wolgan Valley. One hour five minutes drive from Katoomba and a flat 20 minute walk along a ridge with crazy pagoda rocks. 14 routes in total from grade 11 to 23.

Rap in and climb out. Take a few rope protectors. All routes start from ledges or semi hanging stances. Mixed gear routes. You will need a rack of wires and friends #00 to #4 with doubles of #1 #1.5 Bolts are glue in stainless steel bolts requiring bolt brackets. Plus one carrot Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day!

Approach

Grid references are from Topographical Map – Cullen Bullen 2nd Edition Access 1: (2wd) Find your way to Bungleboori picnic area on the Glowworm Tunnel Rd, Newnes Plateau. Reset your odometer and turn left into Sunnyside road. At 2.6km the road splits. Take the left road which is Blackfellows Hand Fire Trail. Follow this until 13.7km where the road starts to go downhill and left, there is a small parking bay on the left with a small gum tree (GR 333088). Access 2: (2wd most of the time if you have a bit of clearance) Turn onto Blackfellows Hand Fire Trail a km before Wolgan Gap. Drive for 3.3km As you drive up a hill covered in waterbars, it will turn rightward, there is a small Carpark on the righthand side. Opposite the Carpark is a ridge heading north covered in pagoda rocks. Follow cairns and marked track along ridge to GR 330099. Comfortable 20 mins walk. The track begins by following a motorbike track for about 50m, which then veers left. Look for cairns at the base of a couple of gum trees going straight ahead along the ridge. The cairns weave in, around and over the pagodas for a few hundred metres then continue along the ridge.

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