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Table of contents

1. Stanwell Tops 51 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.977207, -34.220965


The Cliff face overlooking Stanwell Park

Access Issues:

Note that there seemed to be a couple of people living in some of the cliffs in the area.


Park at Stanwell Tops, Stonehaven Rd. there is a gravel parking lot. Walk down the Wodi-Wodi track to the lookouts.

1.1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:© (bundybear)

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.


There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18Sport 19m, 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20Sport 18m, 5
5 * -

Start 1m right of 'Arete'. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22Sport 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23Sport 15m
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15Trad 15m
8 Shoulders 10Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green 16Trad 5m
10 Bugs 14Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That 15Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds 21Trad 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns 18Trad 21m
14 Rocks Don't Floss 18Trad 21m
15 For the Birds 22Trad 20m
16 Unforgiven 17Trad 17m

1.2. Hargraves 26 routes in Area

Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

Recently cleaned up with the installation of double RB lower offs for all climbs. A great area on the upper cliff line overlooking Stanwell Park beach. Most of the routes are about 10m in height, and there is plenty of nice shiney stainless steel to keep the punters happy.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Follow the Waddi Waddi track for 300m. Locate the lookout, downclimb the deep cleft in rock behind fenced lookout to reach wide ledge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crakarett

The 'Arete' at the end of the walk down gully. Not on the main wall.

FA: Teacher

20Sport 10m
2 Cosmic Punk

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'.

Start: At the sandy corner.

17Trad 8m
3 Dances With Wolves

5m R of CP. Just R of block then up wall.

FA: Chris Sykes, Luke Wilmott, 1993

14Mixed 8m, 1
4 * Little Flower

Start 9m R of DwW. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal cracks. Rebolted with lower offs 2006

FA: Chris Wilmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

18Sport 9m
5 Kisses the Rock

2m R of LF. Crack line weekness. New bolts 2006.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn, Chris Wilmott, 1993

18Sport 9m
6 ** Blow Hole

1m right of KtR. No bolts

FA: Chris Willmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

19Trad 11m
7 Cane Toad

retroed/4 u

FA: Roger Bourne, Chris Wilmott, 1993

20Sport 11m
8 * After the Storm

Wall left of black stain running down the wall

FA: Chris Willmott, Roger Bourne, 1993

18Sport 10m
9 ** Jugs Macdougall

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

19Sport 10m
10 Jugs Naiden 21Unknown 10m
11 * Naiden 22Unknown 10m
12 End of Era 21Unknown 9m
13 Interdependence

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it !

Start: 6m of NN

14Unknown 9m
14 (Unnamed 1) 21Unknown 10m
15 (Unnamed 2) 20Unknown 10m
16 (Unnamed 3) 19Unknown 10m
17 * Back to School

Climb starts right next to tree 3 ring bolts to double ring bolt lower off this climb is excellent. It is an easy climb for the grade. FA Jason Lammers 17/02/10

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

20Sport 10m, 3
18 * In Lieu of the Gym

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

23Sport 12m, 4
19 The Dance Goes On

Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizonal breaks.

19Sport 10m, 4
20 Don't Guild the Orchard 17Unknown 10m
21 At Peace 18Unknown 10m
22 * i-Nanderthol

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RbAON.

Start: Just right of BtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

21Sport 10m, 4
23 * Neville Naiden

EZ start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22Sport 10m
24 * Jugs

Nice start which turns in to desparate crimping the higher you go. Shared Lower off with NN.

Start: Slightly right of AtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23Sport 12m
25 Rose By Annie Other Name

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

19Sport 9m, 3
26 * Little Flower - Direct

The name says it all

20Sport 8m

1.3. Lookout 9 routes in Area

Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the area below the lookout on the Wadi-Wadi walking track. There is good mix here of trad and sports routes. Most of the routes are 10-12 meters. Either rap in to ledge (belay bolts) or walk down gully behind and below bridge.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Crack

10m left of cleft entrance at start ledge below fenced lookout. Up the good crack.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18Trad 10m
2 Eat My Brains

Face directly below lookout. Start at the base of the crack then head left directly up wall without using the crack.

FA: John Koster, David Brown, 1996

22Sport 13m, 5
3 The Heart is Pretty Starred

As for EMB, do the mantel. The use the trad crack right of RBs. Rather contrived.

FA: David Brown, John Koster, 1996

19Mixed 13m, 2
4 Sunday the 13th

2m left of NC. Crack to cave. Wider crack above cave.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 2009

17Trad 10m
5 All Hands on Deck

2m left of S13. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18Trad 10m
6 Up Periscope

TR Only. 3m left of AHD. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

19Trad 10m
7 Bliss

Start is reached from wide ledge at S end of cliff. Climb down from wide ledge above MLC and climb pocketed wall to crack.

Start: 25m left of UP

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1993

14Unknown 8m
8 * Mid-life Crisis

Step on to small ledge, up thru edge of cave.

Start: 11m L of 'Bliss' on wall of lower cliff

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1993

19Mixed 7m, 2
9 STT 23Unknown 14m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Shoulders Trad 5m 1.1. Stonehaven
14 Bugs Trad 5m 1.1. Stonehaven
Dances With Wolves Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. Hargraves
Interdependence Unknown 9m 1.2. Hargraves
Bliss Unknown 8m 1.3. Lookout
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m 1.1. Stonehaven
* Syko Trad 15m 1.1. Stonehaven
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m 1.1. Stonehaven
17 Unforgiven Trad 17m 1.1. Stonehaven
Cosmic Punk Trad 8m 1.2. Hargraves
Don't Guild the Orchard Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
Sunday the 13th Trad 10m 1.3. Lookout
18 * Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5 1.1. Stonehaven
* Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Sport 20m 1.1. Stonehaven
Rocks Don't Floss Trad 21m 1.1. Stonehaven
Send Down the Clowns Trad 21m 1.1. Stonehaven
* After the Storm Sport 10m 1.2. Hargraves
At Peace Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
Kisses the Rock Sport 9m 1.2. Hargraves
* Little Flower Sport 9m 1.2. Hargraves
All Hands on Deck Trad 10m 1.3. Lookout
North Crack Trad 10m 1.3. Lookout
19 (Unnamed 3) Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
** Blow Hole Trad 11m 1.2. Hargraves
** Jugs Macdougall Sport 10m 1.2. Hargraves
Rose By Annie Other Name Sport 9m, 3 1.2. Hargraves
The Dance Goes On Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Hargraves
* Mid-life Crisis Mixed 7m, 2 1.3. Lookout
The Heart is Pretty Starred Mixed 13m, 2 1.3. Lookout
Up Periscope Trad 10m 1.3. Lookout
20 ** Handful Sport 18m, 5 1.1. Stonehaven
(Unnamed 2) Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
* Back to School Sport 10m, 3 1.2. Hargraves
Cane Toad Sport 11m 1.2. Hargraves
Crakarett Sport 10m 1.2. Hargraves
* Little Flower - Direct Sport 8m 1.2. Hargraves
21 One Step in the Clouds Trad 23m 1.1. Stonehaven
(Unnamed 1) Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
End of Era Unknown 9m 1.2. Hargraves
Jugs Naiden Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
* i-Nanderthol Sport 10m, 4 1.2. Hargraves
22 * - Sport 14m, 5 1.1. Stonehaven
For the Birds Trad 20m 1.1. Stonehaven
* Naiden Unknown 10m 1.2. Hargraves
* Neville Naiden Sport 10m 1.2. Hargraves
Eat My Brains Sport 13m, 5 1.3. Lookout
23 * Blood Sport 15m 1.1. Stonehaven
* In Lieu of the Gym Sport 12m, 4 1.2. Hargraves
* Jugs Sport 12m 1.2. Hargraves
STT Unknown 14m 1.3. Lookout
? Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m 1.1. Stonehaven