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Table of contents

1. Stanwell Tops 50 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.974264, -34.223566

Unique Features And Strengths:

Single pitch sandstone climbing above the sea-side town of Stanwell Park.

Description:

Mostly sport climbing on ringbolts, but there are also some excellent crack routes as well.

Access Issues: inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.

Approach:

Drive to intersection of Stonehaven Rd and Bendena Garden in the town of Stanwell Tops. Park in large open gravel carpark next to The Tumbling Waters/Garden of Peace resort entrance behind the bus-stop.

Ethic: inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

1.1. Hargraves Lookout 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.978562, -34.222925

Description:

A super convenient single-pitch sandstone crag overlooking the beautiful Stanwell Park. Most routes are short (8-15m high) and are well bolted with ringbolts and lower-offs. There are a couple of good trad cracks as well. There is a homeless man living in a cave under the lookout. Say hi!

Approach:

Drive to intersection of Stonehaven Rd and Bendena Garden in the town of Stanwell Tops. Park in large open gravel carpark next to The Tumbling Waters/Garden of Peace resort entrance. Walk down Wodi Wodi walking track behind the resort fence, passing a small stream that goes under their fence to epic pool. After the stream the walking track splits, take the left turn and shortly after you will reach a rocky lookout with chain fence. The rock chimney gully on the far side of the fence is the walk-down access point to bottom of the cliff. All up the walk is less than 5 minutes.

Descent Notes:

Most routes have lower-offs. There are also large trees above the Lookout sector.

History:

Ian Anger was possibly the first climber to sniff around here in the early 1980s. There were a couple of rusty carrots on the Lookout sector that date from this time. In the 1990s local climber Chris Wilmott bolted many of the first sport routes here. A decade later Shire boys Shaun Martin and Jason Lammers finished the remaining routes off.

1.1.1. Hargraves 25 routes in Sector

Summary:
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.978595, -34.222690

Description:© (bundybear)

This is the family friendly sector of the cliff, with a good selection of sport routes and the occasional dirty crack. Routes are closely spaced with a nice flat cliff base for belaying. This whole crag was renovated with shiny stainless steel ringbolts and lower-offs in the late 2000s.

Approach:© (bundybear)

This is the 10m-ish high section of cliff running north from the bottom of the chimney descent gully. It is covered in ringbolts.

Descent Notes:© (bundybear)

Most routes have lower-offs. The top of the cliff is vegetated and wet so getting top-ropes up without leading is a pain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Crakarett

The arete at the bottom of the walk down gully. Starts with short diagonal handcrack then traverse right to arête.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

20Sport 10m, 3
2 Cosmic Punk

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'. Starts at the sandy right facing flake.

17Trad 8m
3 Dances With Wolves

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.

FA: Chris Sykes, Luke Wilmott, 1993

14Mixed 8m, 1
4 Top-rope Route 1

Top-rope only. 3m right or DWW at end of second block. Up the wall past left end of small roof.

Top rope
5 Top-rope Route 2

Top-rope only. 3m right of Top-rope Route 2. Up the wall through right end of small roof.

Top rope
6 * Little Flower

Start 9m R of DwW at right facing flake. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal crack (can) then traverse right to RB then up and left past two more RBs to lower-off at top. A super big stick-click could avoid the trad.

FA: Chris Wilmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

18Sport 9m, 3
7 Kisses the Rock

2m R of LF. Crack line weakness with two high ringbolts. Finger and handsized cams required in lower half.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn, Chris Wilmott, 1993

18Mixed 9m, 2
8 ** Blow Hole

1m right of KtR. Trad protected wall climbing with cams in horizontals. No bolts!

FA: Chris Willmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

19Trad 11m
9 Cane Toad

Well bolted sport route up clean grey streak behind tree. Finish right to shared lower-off.

FA: Roger Bourne, Chris Wilmott, 1993

20Sport 11m, 4
10 * After the Storm

Starts at landmark detached right facing flake. Climb flake and mantle on to ledge, clip high RB then up orange streak past bolts to top.

FA: Chris Willmott, Roger Bourne, 1993

18Sport 10m, 3
11 ** Jugs Macdougall

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

19Sport 10m
12 * Jugs

Nice start which turns in to desparate crimping the higher you go. Start up face just right of monster flake then take right tending line of RBs. Shared Lower off with NN. Starts slightly right of AtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23Sport 12m, 3
13 Jugs Naiden

Link-up of Jugs into Naiden?

21Sport 10m
14 * Neville Naiden / End of an Era

2m right of Jugs at right end of orange patch at base of cliff. Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top. This appears to be a bolted version of the old top-rope problem End of an Era.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22Sport 10m, 4
15 Interdependence

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

14Trad 9m
16 Rose By Annie Other Name

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

19Sport 9m, 3
17 * i-Nanderthol

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RbAON. Starts just right of BtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

21Sport 10m, 4
18 * Back to School

Climb starts right next to tree. This climb is excellent and it easy for the grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

20Sport 10m, 3
19 * In Lieu of the Gym

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

23Sport 12m, 4
20 * The Dance Goes On

One of the best routes here. Starts 20m right of In Lieu of the Gym. Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizontal breaks.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn,Chris Sykes, 1993

19Sport 10m, 4
21 Don't Guild the Orchard

Top-rope only. 5m right of The Dance Goes On. Pull onto small ledge. Up wall, avoiding clumps of orchids, left at top to avoid damaging many small native orchids at top.

17Top rope 10m
22 At Peace

Top-rope only. 2m left of red gum. At cliff-base near waterfall. Wall past small tree to flake at red gum. Up flake.

18Top rope 10m

The following routes are left-over top-rope routes from the 90s that may or may not now be recent bolted and named routes.

23 (Unnamed 1)

Top-rope only. 6m right of Interdependence. 1m left of gum. Wall right of low, short corner. Sustained, with good moves in shallow scoop at top.

21Top rope 10m
24 (Unnamed 2)

Top-rope only. 2m right of Unnamed 1. Flake to first horizontal, then to short, little corner at top.

20Top rope 10m
25 (Unnamed 3)

Top-rope only. 4m right of Unnamed 2. Blunt arete. Up easily to one good move on wall at top.

19Top rope 10m

1.1.2. Lookout 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.978525, -34.223222

Description:

This is the southern section of wall, and situated right below the brick-work remains of the old lookout on far side of chain fence. The routes are a little taller and a lot more exposed than the routes at Hargraves sector with a traddy feel. There are some random white numbers written at the base of some routes - these are not the right grades!

Approach:

Walk down the chimney descent gully, and then turn right and hook around onto very narrow rock ledge perched above 15m drop. Look for ringbolt belays and stay clipped in at all times! This is not a suitable spot for kids, dogs or incompetents.

Descent Notes:

Use the large trees at the top of the cliff for belay anchors. There are no top bolts.

History:

There is some confusion about which route is which at this cliff - I (Neil) have tried to make sense of conflicting route descriptions supplied in Rock magazine new routes update guidelets #30 & #38. If you know better please fix the mistakes!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Heart is Pretty Starred

Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.

FA: David Brown, John Koster, 1996

19Sport 13m, 4
2 * North Crack

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18Trad 13m
3 ** Sunday the 13th

One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1992

17Trad 13m
4 ** Eat My Brains

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

FA: John Koster, David Brown, 1996

22Sport 13m, 5
5 All Hands on Deck

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18Trad 10m
6 Up Periscope

Top-rope only. 3m left of All Hands on Deck. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

19Top rope 10m

The next climb is 25m left of Up Periscope but is reached by scrambling down from the southern end of the cliff.

7 Bliss

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

14Trad 8m

The next route is on the lower cliffline, directly below the route Bliss. A good path weaves down to it from the southern end. Why is there a good path? Because as of March 2015 a homeless man is living in a cave at the base of this route!

8 * Mid-life Crisis

Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1993

19Sport 7m, 3
9 STT 23Unknown 14m 2

1.2. Stonehaven 16 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.977211, -34.226002

Description:

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011. There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Approach:

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18Sport 19m, 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20Sport 18m, 5
5 * Shaun's Route

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22Sport 14m, 5
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23Sport 15m 5
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15Trad 15m
8 Shoulders

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes,Chris Wilmott, 1993

10Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

16Trad 5m
10 Bugs

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

14Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Mark Parkinson, 1995

15Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top.

21Top rope 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Roger Bourne, 1993

18Mixed 21m, 4
14 Rocks Don't Floss

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

18Top rope 21m
15 For the Birds

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top.

22Top rope 20m
16 Unforgiven

3m right of For the Birds. Crack. Left at top through bushes.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

17Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
10 Shoulders Trad 5m 1.2. Stonehaven
14 Dances With Wolves Mixed 8m, 1 1.1.1. Hargraves
Interdependence Trad 9m 1.1.1. Hargraves
Bliss Trad 8m 1.1.2. Lookout
Bugs Trad 5m 1.2. Stonehaven
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m 1.2. Stonehaven
* Syko Trad 15m 1.2. Stonehaven
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m 1.2. Stonehaven
17 Cosmic Punk Trad 8m 1.1.1. Hargraves
Don't Guild the Orchard Top rope 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
** Sunday the 13th Trad 13m 1.1.2. Lookout
Unforgiven Trad 17m 1.2. Stonehaven
18 * After the Storm Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
At Peace Top rope 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
Kisses the Rock Mixed 9m, 2 1.1.1. Hargraves
* Little Flower Sport 9m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
All Hands on Deck Trad 10m 1.1.2. Lookout
* North Crack Trad 13m 1.1.2. Lookout
* Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5 1.2. Stonehaven
* Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Sport 20m 1.2. Stonehaven
Rocks Don't Floss Top rope 21m 1.2. Stonehaven
Send Down the Clowns Mixed 21m, 4 1.2. Stonehaven
19 (Unnamed 3) Top rope 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
** Blow Hole Trad 11m 1.1.1. Hargraves
** Jugs Macdougall Sport 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
Rose By Annie Other Name Sport 9m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
* The Dance Goes On Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Hargraves
* Mid-life Crisis Sport 7m, 3 1.1.2. Lookout
The Heart is Pretty Starred Sport 13m, 4 1.1.2. Lookout
Up Periscope Top rope 10m 1.1.2. Lookout
20 (Unnamed 2) Top rope 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
* Back to School Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
Cane Toad Sport 11m, 4 1.1.1. Hargraves
* Crakarett Sport 10m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
** Handful Sport 18m, 5 1.2. Stonehaven
21 (Unnamed 1) Top rope 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
Jugs Naiden Sport 10m 1.1.1. Hargraves
* i-Nanderthol Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Hargraves
One Step in the Clouds Top rope 23m 1.2. Stonehaven
22 * Neville Naiden Sport 10m, 4 1.1.1. Hargraves
** Eat My Brains Sport 13m, 5 1.1.2. Lookout
For the Birds Top rope 20m 1.2. Stonehaven
* Shaun's Route Sport 14m, 5 1.2. Stonehaven
23 * In Lieu of the Gym Sport 12m, 4 1.1.1. Hargraves
* Jugs Sport 12m, 3 1.1.1. Hargraves
STT Unknown 14m 2 1.1.2. Lookout
* Blood Sport 15m 5 1.2. Stonehaven
? Top-rope Route 1 Top rope 1.1.1. Hargraves
Top-rope Route 2 Top rope 1.1.1. Hargraves
Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m 1.2. Stonehaven