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Description

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.

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There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Stanwell Tops

Note that there seemed to be a couple of people living in some of the cliffs in the area.

Approach

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

2

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

4
20 ** Handful Sport 18m, 5

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

5
22 * - Sport 14m, 5

Start 1m right of 'Arete'. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

6
23 * Blood Sport 15m

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

7
15 * Syko Trad 15m

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

8
10 Shoulders Trad 5m
9
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m
10
14 Bugs Trad 5m
11
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m
13
14
18 Rocks Don't Floss Trad 21m
15
22 For the Birds Trad 20m
16
17 Unforgiven Trad 17m