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Description

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011. There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.

Approach

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Line of bolts left of Chain-saw. Crimps, jugs, toe-jams... Got them all!!

Set by iBlom & jason link, Apr 2018

FFA: iBlom, Apr 2018

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont & Chris Sykes, 1994

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

Flake in the cave, reach to jug out over the lip left, heel hook then crimp, mantle, grovel, whatever works to get up...

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmont, 1993

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmott, 1993

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Mark Parkinson, 1995

The access track comes down here. Head right (facing out) to 'Chain-saw' or head left to the other climbs.

Short Climb on the ramp at the end of orange rope . bolts on block above Topout.

Half way down the access trail, continue East beyond the ramp at the end of the orange rope to the next wall.

FFA: Ryan, 8 Apr

Line of Bolts on LHS of Hotdog Power.

Set by jason link & Ryan

FFA: Ryan, 6 May

Line of bolts to the right of Pole Dance.

Set by jason link

FFA: Ryan, 10 Jun

Direct start to Hotdog Water.

FFA: Leo Stanners, 23 Apr

At the bottom of the orange rope to Stonehaven, turn left instead of right. Go about 35m until you find a ledge and 2 ring bolted climbs. The one up the aerate is Hotdog Water. Start up 'Milk was a bad choice' and shank left at first bolt, slowly making your way out to the aerate, and up.

Set by Leo Stanners & jason link, 1 Apr

FFA: Leo Stanners, 8 Apr

Line on bolts up the centre. Shares the first bolt with Hotdog Water.

FFA: Ryan, 8 Apr

Sweet mixed line up the corner starting at crack with some nut placements, then bolts on the overhanging headwall. Dirty start but will get better with traffic, headwall has great rock.

Set by iBlom & Leo Stanners, May 2018

FA: Leo Stanners, May 2018

Juggy corner to start, then tricky move to reach pocket and heave over small roof to techo wall on awesome rock.

Set by Jason Lammers, 4 Jul

Straight forward start to thin wall on slimpers. Shared lower off with previous route.

Set by Jason Lammers, 4 Jul

Big reaches to big holds. Funky pockets.

Set by Jason Lammers, 4 Jul

FA: Jason Lammers, 8 Jul

Fixed Hangers to double Ring lower off under little roof. Does anyone have details ??

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top.

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Roger Bourne, 1993

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top.

3m right of For the Birds. Crack. Left at top through bushes.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

Activity

Check out what is happening in Stonehaven.