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Description

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011. There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.

Approach

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 * Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont & Chris Sykes, 1994

2

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

4
20 ** Handful Sport 18m, 5

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

5
22 * Shaun's Route Sport 14m, 5

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

6
23 * Blood Sport 15m 5

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

7
15 * Syko Trad 15m

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmont, 1993

8
10 Shoulders Trad 5m

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes & Chris Wilmott, 1993

9
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

10
14 Bugs Trad 5m

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

11
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Mark Parkinson, 1995

12
21 One Step in the Clouds Top rope 23m

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top.

13
18 Send Down the Clowns Mixed 21m, 4

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott & Roger Bourne, 1993

14
18 Rocks Don't Floss Top rope 21m

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

15
22 For the Birds Top rope 20m

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top.

16
17 Unforgiven Trad 17m

3m right of For the Birds. Crack. Left at top through bushes.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993