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Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 16m
  • Style: Trad,Sport and ?
  • Ascents: 50

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Description:© (bundybear)

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.

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There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18
Sport 19m , 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18
Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project)
Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20
Sport 18m , 5
5 * -

Start 1m right of 'Arete'. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22
Sport 14m , 5
RouteGradeStylePopularity
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23
Sport 15m
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15
Trad 15m
8 Shoulders
10
Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green
16
Trad 5m
10 Bugs
14
Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That
15
Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds
21
Trad 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns
18
Trad 21m
14 Rocks Don't Floss
18
Trad 21m
15 For the Birds
22
Trad 20m
16 Unforgiven
17
Trad 17m