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Table of contents

1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:© (bundybear)

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.


There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Access Issues: inherited from Stanwell Tops

Note that there seemed to be a couple of people living in some of the cliffs in the area.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18Sport 19m, 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20Sport 18m, 5
5 * -

Start 1m right of 'Arete'. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22Sport 14m, 5
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23Sport 15m 5
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15Trad 15m
8 Shoulders 10Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green 16Trad 5m
10 Bugs 14Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That 15Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds 21Trad 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns 18Trad 21m
14 Rocks Don't Floss 18Trad 21m
15 For the Birds 22Trad 20m
16 Unforgiven 17Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Shoulders Trad 5m
14 Bugs Trad 5m
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m
* Syko Trad 15m
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m
17 Unforgiven Trad 17m
18 * Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5
* Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Sport 20m
Rocks Don't Floss Trad 21m
Send Down the Clowns Trad 21m
20 ** Handful Sport 18m, 5
21 One Step in the Clouds Trad 23m
22 * - Sport 14m, 5
For the Birds Trad 20m
23 * Blood Sport 15m 5
? Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m