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Table of contents

1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.977211, -34.226002


Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011. There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Access Issues: inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.


Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

Ethic: inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18 Sport 19m, 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18 Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20 Sport 18m, 5
5 * Shaun's Route

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22 Sport 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23 Sport 15m 5
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15 Trad 15m
8 Shoulders

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes,Chris Wilmott, 1993

10 Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

16 Trad 5m
10 Bugs

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

14 Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Mark Parkinson, 1995

15 Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top.

21 Top rope 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Roger Bourne, 1993

18 Mixed 21m, 4
14 Rocks Don't Floss

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

18 Top rope 21m
15 For the Birds

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top.

22 Top rope 20m
16 Unforgiven

3m right of For the Birds. Crack. Left at top through bushes.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

17 Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Shoulders Trad 5m
14 Bugs Trad 5m
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m
* Syko Trad 15m
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m
17 Unforgiven Trad 17m
18 * Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5
* Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Sport 20m
Rocks Don't Floss Top rope 21m
Send Down the Clowns Mixed 21m, 4
20 ** Handful Sport 18m, 5
21 One Step in the Clouds Top rope 23m
22 For the Birds Top rope 20m
* Shaun's Route Sport 14m, 5
23 * Blood Sport 15m 5
? Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m