Stonehaven Area guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lionel Terray shaunm Steven Martin greg David Barnes graeme hill Ryan Whelan Danger Innes David O'Donnell Chris Kinny

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1. Stonehaven 16 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

seasonality

Summary:: Trad,Sport and ?
Description:© (bundybear): Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.

"

There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.
Approach:© (bundybear): Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
Hide Hide
1	Chain-saw Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough ! FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994	18	Sport 19m , 5		Ryan Whelan 6 years ago great first moves nice all the wa Jason Lammers 6 years ago New lower offs, rings all the way now.
2	Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach. FA: Bundy, 2006	18	Sport 20m		David O'Donnell 5 years ago pre-placed gear. - (its the new fab! greg 6 years ago really enjoyable climbing
3	Princess Lauren - DS (Project)		Unknown 18m
4	Handful Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ... FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993	20	Sport 18m , 5		David O'Donnell 5 years ago brilliant technical arete...the "teenager for the CIA" of the shire!!! Ryan Whelan 6 years ago great climb sustained all the way
5	- Start 1m right of 'Arete'. Up slabby wall to lower offs. FA: Shaun Martin, 2006	22	Sport 14m , 5
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	Blood 1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB FA: Shaun Martin, 2006	23	Sport 15m		Ryan Whelan 6 years ago great down low failed at 4th draw
7	Syko The corner crack. FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993	15	Trad 15m		Jason Lammers 5 years ago Dean Potter would be proud of the bear on this one.
8	Shoulders	10	Trad 5m
9	Carpeted Green	16	Trad 5m
10	Bugs	14	Trad 5m
11	Life's Like That	15	Trad 12m
12	One Step in the Clouds	21	Trad 23m
13	Send Down the Clowns	18	Trad 21m
14	Rocks Don't Floss	18	Trad 21m
15	For the Birds	22	Trad 20m
16	Unforgiven	17	Trad 17m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
10	Shoulders	Trad 5m
14	Bugs	Trad 5m
15	Life's Like That	Trad 12m
	Syko	Trad 15m
16	Carpeted Green	Trad 5m
17	Unforgiven	Trad 17m
18	Chain-saw	Sport 19m , 5
	Princess Lauren of Stonehaven	Sport 20m
	Rocks Don't Floss	Trad 21m
	Send Down the Clowns	Trad 21m
20	Handful	Sport 18m , 5
21	One Step in the Clouds	Trad 23m
22	-	Sport 14m , 5
	For the Birds	Trad 20m
23	Blood	Sport 15m
?	Princess Lauren - DS (Project)	Unknown 18m

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Area Guide for Stonehaven

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1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

2. Index by grade