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Description

Recently cleaned up with the installation of double RB lower offs for all climbs. A great area on the upper cliff line overlooking Stanwell Park beach. Most of the routes are about 10m in height, and there is plenty of nice shiney stainless steel to keep the punters happy.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Stanwell Tops

Note that there seemed to be a couple of people living in some of the cliffs in the area.

Approach

Follow the Waddi Waddi track for 300m. Locate the lookout, downclimb the deep cleft in rock behind fenced lookout to reach wide ledge.

© (bundybear)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Crakarett Sport 10m

The 'Arete' at the end of the walk down gully. Not on the main wall.

FA: Teacher

2
17 Cosmic Punk Trad 8m

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'.

Start: At the sandy corner.

3
14 Dances With Wolves Mixed 8m, 1

5m R of CP. Just R of block then up wall.

FA: Chris Sykes, Luke Wilmott, 1993

4
18 * Little Flower Sport 9m

Start 9m R of DwW. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal cracks. Rebolted with lower offs 2006

FA: Chris Wilmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

5
18 Kisses the Rock Sport 9m

2m R of LF. Crack line weekness. New bolts 2006.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn, Chris Wilmott, 1993

6
19 ** Blow Hole Trad 11m

1m right of KtR. No bolts

FA: Chris Willmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

7
20 Cane Toad Sport 11m

retroed/4 u

FA: Roger Bourne, Chris Wilmott, 1993

8
18 * After the Storm Sport 10m

Wall left of black stain running down the wall

FA: Chris Willmott, Roger Bourne, 1993

9
19 ** Jugs Macdougall Sport 10m

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

10
21 Jugs Naiden Unknown 10m
11
22 * Naiden Unknown 10m
12
21 End of Era Unknown 9m
13
14 Interdependence Unknown 9m

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it !

Start: 6m of NN

14
21 (Unnamed 1) Unknown 10m
15
20 (Unnamed 2) Unknown 10m
16
19 (Unnamed 3) Unknown 10m
17
20 * Back to School Sport 10m, 3

Climb starts right next to tree 3 ring bolts to double ring bolt lower off this climb is excellent. It is an easy climb for the grade. FA Jason Lammers 17/02/10

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

18
23 * In Lieu of the Gym Sport 12m, 4

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

19
19 The Dance Goes On Sport 10m, 4

Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizonal breaks.

20
17 Don't Guild the Orchard Unknown 10m
21
18 At Peace Unknown 10m
22
21 * i-Nanderthol Sport 10m, 4

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RbAON.

Start: Just right of BtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

23
22 * Neville Naiden Sport 10m

EZ start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

24
23 * Jugs Sport 12m

Nice start which turns in to desparate crimping the higher you go. Shared Lower off with NN.

Start: Slightly right of AtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

25

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

26

The name says it all