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Description

This is the family friendly sector of the cliff, with a good selection of sport routes and the occasional dirty crack. Routes are closely spaced with a nice flat cliff base for belaying. This whole crag was renovated with shiny stainless steel ringbolts and lower-offs in the late 2000s.

© (bundybear)

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.

Approach

This is the 10m-ish high section of cliff running north from the bottom of the chimney descent gully. It is covered in ringbolts.

© (bundybear)

Descent Notes

Most routes have lower-offs. The top of the cliff is vegetated and wet so getting top-ropes up without leading is a pain.

© (bundybear)

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 * Crakarett Sport 10m, 3

The arete at the bottom of the walk down gully. Starts with short diagonal handcrack then traverse right to arête.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

2
17 Cosmic Punk Trad 8m

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'. Starts at the sandy right facing flake.

3
14 Dances With Wolves Mixed 8m, 1

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.

FA: Chris Sykes & Luke Wilmott, 1993

4

Top-rope only. 3m right or DWW at end of second block. Up the wall past left end of small roof.

5

Top-rope only. 3m right of Top-rope Route 2. Up the wall through right end of small roof.

6
18 * Little Flower Sport 9m, 3

Start 9m R of DwW at right facing flake. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal crack (can) then traverse right to RB then up and left past two more RBs to lower-off at top. A super big stick-click could avoid the trad.

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

7
18 Kisses the Rock Mixed 9m, 2

2m R of LF. Crack line weakness with two high ringbolts. Finger and handsized cams required in lower half.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn & Chris Wilmott, 1993

8
19 ** Blow Hole Trad 11m

1m right of KtR. Trad protected wall climbing with cams in horizontals. No bolts!

FA: Chris Willmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

9
20 Cane Toad Sport 11m, 4

Well bolted sport route up clean grey streak behind tree. Finish right to shared lower-off.

FA: Roger Bourne & Chris Wilmott, 1993

10
18 * After the Storm Sport 10m, 3

Starts at landmark detached right facing flake. Climb flake and mantle on to ledge, clip high RB then up orange streak past bolts to top.

FA: Chris Willmott & Roger Bourne, 1993

11
19 ** Jugs Macdougall Sport 10m

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

12
23 * Jugs Sport 12m, 3

Nice start which turns in to desparate crimping the higher you go. Start up face just right of monster flake then take right tending line of RBs. Shared Lower off with NN. Starts slightly right of AtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

13
21 Jugs Naiden Sport 10m

Link-up of Jugs into Naiden?

14

2m right of Jugs at right end of orange patch at base of cliff. Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top. This appears to be a bolted version of the old top-rope problem End of an Era.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

15
14 Interdependence Trad 9m

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

16

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

17
21 * i-Nanderthol Sport 10m, 4

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RbAON. Starts just right of BtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

18
20 * Back to School Sport 10m, 3

Climb starts right next to tree. This climb is excellent and it easy for the grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

19
23 * In Lieu of the Gym Sport 12m, 4

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

20
19 * The Dance Goes On Sport 10m, 4

One of the best routes here. Starts 20m right of In Lieu of the Gym. Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizontal breaks.

FA: Chris Wilmott, John Jakimyszyn & Chris Sykes, 1993

21
17 Don't Guild the Orchard Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 5m right of The Dance Goes On. Pull onto small ledge. Up wall, avoiding clumps of orchids, left at top to avoid damaging many small native orchids at top.

22
18 At Peace Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 2m left of red gum. At cliff-base near waterfall. Wall past small tree to flake at red gum. Up flake.

The following routes are left-over top-rope routes from the 90s that may or may not now be recent bolted and named routes.

23
21 (Unnamed 1) Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 6m right of Interdependence. 1m left of gum. Wall right of low, short corner. Sustained, with good moves in shallow scoop at top.

24
20 (Unnamed 2) Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 2m right of Unnamed 1. Flake to first horizontal, then to short, little corner at top.

25
19 (Unnamed 3) Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 4m right of Unnamed 2. Blunt arete. Up easily to one good move on wall at top.