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Description

This is the southern section of wall, and situated right below the brick-work remains of the old lookout on far side of chain fence. The routes are a little taller and a lot more exposed than the routes at Hargraves sector with a traddy feel. There are some random white numbers written at the base of some routes - these are not the right grades!

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.

Approach

Walk down the chimney descent gully, and then turn right and hook around onto very narrow rock ledge perched above 15m drop. Look for ringbolt belays and stay clipped in at all times! This is not a suitable spot for kids, dogs or incompetents.

Descent Notes

Use the large trees at the top of the cliff for belay anchors. There are no top bolts.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

History

There is some confusion about which route is which at this cliff - I (Neil) have tried to make sense of conflicting route descriptions supplied in Rock magazine new routes update guidelets #30 & #38. If you know better please fix the mistakes!

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.

FA: David Brown & John Koster, 1996

2
18 * North Crack Trad 13m

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

3
17 ** Sunday the 13th Trad 13m

One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1992

4
22 ** Eat My Brains Sport 13m, 5

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

FA: John Koster & David Brown, 1996

5
18 All Hands on Deck Trad 10m

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

6
19 Up Periscope Top rope 10m

Top-rope only. 3m left of All Hands on Deck. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

The next climb is 25m left of Up Periscope but is reached by scrambling down from the southern end of the cliff.

7
14 Bliss Trad 8m

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack

FA: Chris Wilmott & John Jakimyszyn, 1993

The next route is on the lower cliffline, directly below the route Bliss. A good path weaves down to it from the southern end. Why is there a good path? Because as of March 2015 a homeless man is living in a cave at the base of this route!

8
19 * Mid-life Crisis Sport 7m, 3

Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1993

9
23 STT Unknown 14m 2