Topo #8856

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 The Heart is Pretty Starred

Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.

19 Sport 13m, 4 Unlink route
2 * North Crack

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

18 Trad 13m Unlink route
3 ** Sunday the 13th

One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.

17 Trad 13m Unlink route
4 ** Eat My Brains

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

22 Sport 13m, 5 Unlink route
5 All Hands on Deck

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

18 Trad 10m Unlink route
6 Up Periscope

Top-rope only. 3m left of All Hands on Deck. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.

19 Top rope 10m Unlink route

Topo #8854

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Route Grade Popularity Style
7 Bliss

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack

14 Trad 8m Unlink route

Topo #8855

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 * Mid-life Crisis

Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.

19 Sport 7m, 3 Unlink route

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