|1|| The Heart is Pretty Starred
Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.
|2|| North Crack
Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.
|3|| Sunday the 13th
One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.
|4|| Eat My Brains
Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.
|5|| All Hands on Deck
2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?
|6|| Up Periscope
Top-rope only. 3m left of All Hands on Deck. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.
Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack
|10|| Mid-life Crisis
Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.