Coalcliff Rock climbing

8 routes in crag

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Summary

Nice bush scenery, healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.

Description

Small 'gritstone' like buttress of quality rock with a few bolted and top rope only climbs. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track. There i

Access issues

The cliff is right next to a walking track, so take care not to cause a scene that will offend/alarm the general public. There appears to have been some chipping and bolt-chopping at this crag in the past. There are several sets of ringbolts that have been hammered over above some of the top-rope climbs. It's probably a good idea to limit any new bolts.

Approach

25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.

A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.

Where to stay

Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden

Routes

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Grade Route
1
Unknown A Top rope 10m

Just right of the 'camping cave' and just left of Uknown B is lovely wall with bolt holes but no bolts. Looks like a great line once it gets done. Currently top-rope only.

2
24 Unknown B Sport 9m, 4

Start just right of tree, 2m left of unknown C. Follow the 4 RB's to 1 rings at top. Some nice sequency moves through crux!

FA: 1980

3
23 ** Unknown C Sport 8m, 3

The crag classic? The middle of the three ringbolted routes on the west facing wall. Very sustained climbing on pockets and crimps. 3 ringbolts to lower-off.

4

The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Unknown C. Three ringbolts to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!

FA: Mark Woodard, 1994

5
16 * Deb Stoops to Conquer Top rope 11m

Top-rope only. This lovely looking juggy overhung arete is situated right above the tourist track. Once on the midway ledge climb the unlikely 4m off-centre slab arete. There used to be a couple of anchor ringbolts above this route, but some moron has hammered them flat. Set anchors off tree way back instead.

6
17 Douggie Gone Trad 8m

2/3rd of a crack climb with ledge and then minor overhang and a vert. ascent. from ledge(=crux) . Look for the buddha in the cave.

Anchor : 2 chemset ring bolts , but also use a tree anchor for ESSENTIAL backup.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2010

7

Just right of Douggie Gone is a nice looking face - scarred by a hefty amount of subtle chipping. There are top-rope ringbolts on the ledge.

8
14 * Miner Work Trad 10m

15m right of Deb Stoops to Conquer is a slabby right facing arete, with a bunch of subtle chipped holds at ground level (all can be ignored at same grade). Tricky little start to good medium cam break, then mantle onto ledge (vital shallow finger sized cam). Boldly smear layaway up the slabby upper arete section. Tree belay well back (there used to be bolts but they have been chopped)

FA: First recorded lead ascent - Neil Monteith, 2013

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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