Short gritstone-like buttress of good rock with nice bush scenery and a healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.
This little crag has seen local interest for decades, but the steep walk and north-facing aspect has kept its obscurity intact. The climbing is much like The Shire, short and compact with good quality rock and closely spaced bolts. Top-roping any of these routes is easy, with a tourist track running along the cliff-top. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track.
The cliff is right next to a walking track, so take care not to cause a scene that will offend/alarm the general public. There appears to have been some chipping and bolt-chopping at this crag in the past. There are several sets of ringbolts that have been hammered over above some of the top-rope climbs. It's probably a good idea to limit any new bolts.
25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.
A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.
Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden
Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.
This crag has, until very recently, been a total mystery when it comes to history. Ant Harris and Brian Forbes did a ground up first ascent on the chossy eastern end of the cliff 1984, but it took another decade before he returned. In 1995 Ant Harris bolted the first routes on the small sport-bolted buttress and also did a few easier trad and top-rope routes. Mark Woodford came in a month later and added a 20. In the 1999 Rock magazine New Climbs guidelet these routes are mentioned as being on Mt Mitchell but no further info was given. Sometime in the last decade ringbolt anchors were added to the top of many of the easier routes, but were then damaged - not sure by whom. There has also been some random chipping done in recent years.
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