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Coalcliff 5 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 9m
  • Style: Sport,Top Rope and Trad
  • Approach time: 25min
  • Favorites: 1
  • Ascents: 2

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Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice bush scenery, healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.

Description:

A few bolted and top roped climbs in this area.

Access Issues:

25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.

Approach:

A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.

Where To Stay:

Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Unknown B

Start just right of tree, 2m left of unknown C. Follow the 4 RB's to 1 rings at top. Some nice sequency moves through crux!

FA: , 1980

24
Sport 9m , 4
2 Unknown C

The route left of fishermen. A few really nice moves past a sharp crux. 4 rings to DBB

23
Sport 8m , 4
RouteGradeStylePopularity
3 New Sport For Old FIsherman

The climb furthest right on the main wall. 3 RB's to 2 double ring belay.

FA: Mark Woodard, 1994

20
Sport 8m , 4
4 Deb Stoops to Conquer

Juggy inclined arete climb with mantel, then a 4m off-centre slab arete.

LO's: 3 chemset ring bolts - tie to rock/tree for ESSENTIAL backup

16
Top rope 11m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 Douggie Gone

2/3rd of a crack climb with ledge and then minor overhang and a vert. ascent. from ledge(=crux) . Look for the buddha in the cave.

Anchor : 2 chemset ring bolts , but also use a tree anchor for ESSENTIAL backup.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2010

17
Trad 8m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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