Coalcliff North Rock climbing8 routes in crag
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Nice bush scenery, healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.
Small 'gritstone' like buttress of quality rock with a few bolted and top rope only climbs. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track.
The cliff is right next to a walking track, so take care not to cause a scene that will offend/alarm the general public. There appears to have been some chipping and bolt-chopping at this crag in the past. There are several sets of ringbolts that have been hammered over above some of the top-rope climbs. It's probably a good idea to limit any new bolts.
25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.
A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.
Where to stay
Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden
Ethic inherited from Wollongong
Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.
If you know who did these routes PLEASE FILL IN THIS HISTORY! At the moment they are a bit of a mystery (Rod Young?). In the 1999 Rock magazine new climbs guidelet these routes are mentioned as being on Mt Mitchell but first ascentists were unknown even then.
The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Unknown C. Three ringbolts to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!
FA: Mark Woodard, 1994
Top-rope only. This lovely looking juggy overhung arete is situated right above the tourist track. Once on the midway ledge climb the unlikely 4m off-centre slab arete. There used to be a couple of anchor ringbolts above this route, but some moron has hammered them flat. Set anchors off tree way back instead.