Topo #2455

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Route Grade Popularity Style
5 * Sperm Donor

Start just right of tree, 2m left of Dreg Mix. Follow the 4 RBs to single bolt lower-off at top. Some nice sequency moves through crux! Originally graded 26, so treat the grade of 24 with some skepticism.

24 Sport 9m, 4 Unlink route
6 ** Dreg Mix

The crag classic? The middle of the three ringbolted routes on the west facing wall. Very sustained climbing on pockets and crimps. 3 ringbolts to lower-off. Ant Harris recalls "I remember a hideously difficult mono doigt start off a crumbly hold before getting into the pockets and a big dyno up at the top." He gave the route grade 27. Consensus repeats since appear to have it at grade 23/24.

23 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route
7 * New Sport For Old FIsherman

The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Dreg Mix. Three RBs to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!

20 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #2456 - New Sport

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Route Grade Popularity Style
7 * New Sport For Old FIsherman

The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Dreg Mix. Three RBs to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!

20 Sport 8m, 3 Unlink route

Topo #2453 - Deb Stoops

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Route Grade Popularity Style
8 * Deb Stoops to Conquer

Top-rope only. This lovely looking juggy overhung arete is situated right above the tourist track. Once on the midway ledge climb the unlikely 4m off-centre slab arete. There used to be a couple of anchor ringbolts above this route, but some moron has hammered them flat. Set anchors off tree way back instead.

16 Top rope 11m Unlink route

Topo #2454 - Douggie Gone

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Route Grade Popularity Style
9 Focus Puller

2/3rd of a crack climb with ledge and then minor overhang and vertical wall from ledge (crux). Look for the Buddha in the cave. Don't trust the two dodgy ringbolts, use tree for belay. Accidentally reclaimed as a new route in 2010 and called Douggie Gone by Ryan Godlewski.

17 Trad 8m Unlink route

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