Scarface Mostly trad climbing

9 routes in crag

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Summary

Multi-pitch trad climbing with a southerly aspect.

Description

This area is composed of mostly vertical to overhanging sandstone, with plentiful cracks and horizontals slots. The lower-half is quite tall and clean with lovely clean orange rock, whilst the upper half of the cliff is separated by vegetated ledges and shorter grainer walls.

Access issues

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out. Walking access is described in each sub-section.

Ethic

Don't bolt cracks. Please.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
9
28
41m
8

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