Scarface Buttress Mostly Trad climbing9 routes in sector
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An impressive chunk of rock with several new 4-5 pitch mixed routes and very short access. Generally they consist of 15-25m pitches interspersed by good belay ledges. The bottom and middle pitches are generally excellent, however the upper pitches can be vegetated, sandy or short. Or a combo of all three. All routes here require some trad and if you plan to rap the wall a 60m rope. All belays are bolted. The base of the cliff is a bit swampy in places, so be prepared with shoes suitable for wetness. If doing new routes here please respect the trad/mixed ethic that these routes were established by, and avoid adding squeeze jobs.
Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.
View this marked Google Map to see detailed access information and map. https://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?msid=210377956196981525836.0004eb8f23a0928dfa57f&msa=0&ll=-34.267218,150.953994&spn=0.021492,0.040298&iwloc=0004eb8f61c28e4e026fa
Crag access is from either above (via abseil) or from above by steep climbers track (walk). The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out.
Rap-in Access. 15 minutes. Bushbash 50m east to 4WD road, follow it south for 50m then take hikers trail left (east) at small green post. Follow this trail north-east for 250m to wooden duckboards. In the middle and highest section of the duckboards is a largish tree growing on the right side - there should be a bit of blue tape on it. Jump off duckboards here and follow blue tape markers directly south through scrub for 230m to cliff top GPS co-ord (34 16 04 S, 150 57 00 E). Notes on how to rap the base of the cliff are detailed in the Descents section below.
Walk-down Access. 20 minutes. Bushbash 50m east from carpark to 4WD road. Follow this road south past little green sign and two power-poles. 15m south from the 2nd power-pole look for climbers trail on the left - currently marked by rock cairn and pink string in tree. Follow faint trail east for 50m until it drops sharply over escarpment. Follow pink string and rock cairns down steep hill, into rock gully then to base of large cliff. Follow base of cliff along (short section of fixed rope) with some steep and muddy sections to cave formed by giant block. Avian Abbatior is 10m right of this. Shoes that don't mind mud recommend.
Rap in access. 10m back from the top of the cliff is a large metal pulley contraption stuck in the ground - leftovers from some sort of historical cabling. Walk out to cliff edge and find shoulder deep slot between two large scoopy rock ledges. Squeeze down slot onto mossy ledge and find double ring bolt anchor. Rap straight out (parallel with slot) over lip of cave and down to vegetated ledge with short length of red fixed rope. Keep rapping past this fixed rope to second set of DRBs at top of lovely orange overhung wall. Now rap 35m down to ground, or if your rope is short land on the rock ledge about 10m above ground, and use DRB on this ledge to make it to the ground. WATCH rope length - don't rap off the ends of your rope! Bring prussics to escape.
Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.
The cliff appears untouched by climbers until 2013. Surely someone tried something here previously????
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