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Ascents in Scarface Buttress

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Showing all 33 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Climber Date
Tue 18th Aug 2015 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
22 Stop the Bolts!

A full lap from the ground to exit the crack. Finally led P1 (Onsight) - I'd forgotten how terrifyingly scary the sandpit rock for the first 6m is... great corner crack and traverse after that. P2 - Clean 2nd (Repeat). P3 & P4 (Linked) - Clean (Repeat). P5 - Red Point (technically, since I'd seconded Neil on this over 2 years ago, can't claim an Onsight), but in the dark, without stripping down unnecessary gear, and without ticking or cleaning the chipped topout hold and slopers. Fun. Short.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug 2015
21 Bolts are Back!

Sandy junk. I didn't bring any trad gear and I'm bloody glad I didn't blow the top moves. A few easy moves lead to a sandpit and choss, then some hard moves lead to sand and vegetation. The crux movement up a flake feature was cool... but utterly ruined by the terrible rock quality.

Mixed 15m, 5 Wollongong Don't Bother Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug 2015
22 Stop the Bolts!

Repeat. P2 (the money pitch) only. Just a leading lap on this great pitch to kill time while Stephen worked Gravity. Perhaps not as epic as I remember it, but still great trad-ish climbing on bomber rock, in an awesome location. Great protection and moves. Save a #3 if you want to skip the 1 bolt on this pitch for an all-trad ascent.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug 2015
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Repeat. Sure, the crux is burly for the grade (and probably intimidating for most trad climbers) but it's over quickly, gear is plentiful and easy to place, and the climb is quite stance-friendly. Enjoyable thin-crack pumping. Now if only it was 40m long!

Trad 15m Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug 2015
25 Gravity

2nd shot. Onsight ended 30cm from the big horizontal ledge as I continued to move my right hand up the seam and the seam ran out! 2nd shot was smooth sailing. Hard to grade, as it climbs like a sustained V3 boulder problem for the first half, then quite easy second half. Funky moves up pockets, left hand slapping up a fused flake feature, while right works an incipient seam. Marred by dubious rock, and bolts (all of which are 1 move above the obvious clipping stance). Bring loooong draws!

Mixed 15m, 3 Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Tue 18th Aug 2015
Sat 5th Jul 2014 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Burly crack on a fine example of Wollongong rock.

Trad 15m Wollongong Average oliver kerr
Sat 5th Jul 2014
Sun 24th Nov 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
21 Shattered Wing

First ascent (thanks for the scouting/donation, Neil)! A nice little technical arete, which is substantially easier if you're taller. Great pro the whole way (don't forget the #4 and #5 BD Cam) and good rock. RIP beloved WRX rally-wing, you shall be missed.

Trad 14m Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Nov 2013
22 Kaboom

Seconded Neil on the First Ascent. If you're doing Avian Abattoir, there's no excuse not to rap in and do this route as well. Varied climbing on cool pockets and features, with a tough finale that I felt was desparate (I got my leg stuck in a break!). Nice little sport number and a great addition.

Sport 17m, 7 Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Nov 2013
25 Avian Abattoir

2nded Neil on the FA of P1, P2 and P4. Neil kindly donated P3 to me for the FA. How does this climb even go at a reasonable grade? Super-unlikely and intimidating. P1 start is a hard boulder then nice traversing. P2 has a super-technical, hella pumpy, UNIQUE roofy start, then a pleasant finish. P3 is desparately thin slabbing on tiny polished sloping crimps, to a nice trad finish. And P4 has another boulder start, to adventurous traverse and friction slab finish. EXCELLENT!

Trad 84m Wollongong Classic Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Nov 2013
22 Terror Talon Traverse

Seconded Neil on the FA on both pitches. P1 is amazing, but hard, bold, and bloody terrifying. So much core tension to hold a series of polished, sloper undercling pockets as you move across on bad feet with a scary run-out (I was almost certain I'd fall off). P2 is great technical traversing on good gear, with only the tricky down-climb start to tarnish it. Could become a rarely repeated classic...

Mixed 55m, 4 Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Nov 2013
22 Stop the Bolts!

P2 (22) - Onsight (with some beta from Neil as to where the route goes), and P4 (20) via the original finish this time (partial onsight, as I'd done some of it before in the variant finish). P2 is a stunning pitch of unlikely trad on bomber rock, with great pro, in an exposed position, and with surprisingly pumpy and technical climbing. Stoked to get on this one! P4 is good in the "adventurous trad" style.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic Paul Thomson
Sun 24th Nov 2013
22 Terror Talon Traverse

I'm struggling to think of an ascent where I was more pumped and scared. Maybe I just blank out these things? First pitch was effectively a ground up (across?) onsight as I hadn't bothered to rap and check it out - i just presumed it had gear and holds. I was wrong. Very pumpy sloper undercling heuco with feet on lip of monster roof and gear well to the right. I have no idea how I kept it together. 2nd pitch however is super well protected and brilliant climbing across a major horizontafeature.

Mixed 55m, 4 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Mon 25th Nov 2013
21 Shattered Wing

Seconded Paul on this. Very reachy - rock is amazing quality. If longer it would get a lot more stars!

Trad 14m Wollongong Good Neil Monteith
Mon 25th Nov 2013
22 Kaboom

Cool pockets down low and tough move up high that involved a full leg bar in horizontal to reach hold on arete.

Sport 17m, 7 Wollongong Good Neil Monteith
Mon 25th Nov 2013
25 Avian Abattoir

It goes! First pitch has a boulder problem start that took a few goes to solve. Second pitch is just insanely cool roof arete climbing up pockets and flakes. I then attempted to link it into third pitch - found out I was freakishly pumped and took monster winger when I couldn't let go to clip. Paul then led it clean after one fall. Such a cool position! Last pitch - a bit scary with the trad gear at waist level so a bit sketchy to place. Even the vegetation slab section was kind of cool. Rad.

Trad 84m Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Mon 25th Nov 2013
Sun 27th Oct 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
22 Stop the Bolts!

Pitches 2, 3, 4. Super tired so a bit of dogging occurred! Wicked climbing up pitch 2 and pitch 4 is trickier and cooler than it looks. Thanks for the rope gunning Neil.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic James
Sun 27th Oct 2013
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Tricky in the middle. Fantastic climbing.

Trad 15m Wollongong Very Good James
Sun 27th Oct 2013
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Great pitch! Shame it's hidden away by itself down there.

Trad 15m Wollongong Very Good Sam May
Sun 27th Oct 2013
25 Gravity

I thought this was "Bolts Are Back", and was kind of concerned for a while there.

Mixed 15m, 3 Wollongong Sam May
Sun 27th Oct 2013
22 Stop the Bolts!

Pitches 2, 3 & 4 with Neil and Bulti. 2nd pitch is awesome! 3rd is awful access rubbish. 4th is a great weird finale and harder than it looks.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic Sam May
Sun 27th Oct 2013
22 Stop the Bolts!

Repeat - pitches 2, 3 & 4. This crag needs an easier exit route! Pitch 2 is still brilliant.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 27th Oct 2013
24 Neanderthal

Pitch 3 ticked for completion! I initially thought it was 25 - but I did it comfortably first shot today as my warm-up - so 24?

Trad 66m Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 27th Oct 2013
Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
22 Stop the Bolts!

Pitch 4 into pitch 5 linkup only. Seconding Neil on the first ascent. Intriguing "very trad" start to the ledge (pitch 4), then tricky roofing and hard topout finale (pitch 5). Good fun, and a great way to end the day.

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sat 12th Oct 2013
24 Neanderthal (Neanderthal (NEIL'S PROJECT))

Mostly seconding Neil on the FA of this unlikely (visionary?) trad line. Neil donated the FA of the awesome pitch 3 to me (thanks Neil!) which I climbed onsight. P1 - 2nd: exciting traversing with great rock after the first 5m, P2 - 2nd: outrageous trad roof climbing, tough crux move to great face climbing above, P3 - onsight FA: sustained face climbing on pockets and features, P4 - flash first repeat: rad cruxy technical crack finale.

Trad 66m Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sat 12th Oct 2013
24 Neanderthal (Neanderthal (NEIL'S PROJECT))

New multi-pitch trad route 30 mins from home! First free ascent of pitches 1, 3 & 4. I gave pitch 2 several goes but just ran out of juice. I'll be back soon.

Trad 66m Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 13th Oct 2013
25 Gravity

A bitch in the blazing sun - but once it popped into shade I sent. Some ultra cool pockets on this route. And the easy flake finish is an added attraction.

Mixed 15m, 3 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 13th Oct 2013
Sat 12th Oct 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Stellar thin crack. Overhangs by 2m, though you wouldn't realise it to look at it. My onsight ended at the super-tricky crux (the last hard move), though I blame warm-up flash pump and 1 million degree heat as contributing factors. Great locks on good rock, with a tricky crux sequence that MIGHT be a sandbag at 20, but went quite easily 2nd shot. Loved it.

Trad 15m Wollongong Very Good Paul Thomson
Sat 12th Oct 2013
Sun 29th Sep 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
22 Stop the Bolts!

Repeat. With Le Nick. Ended up climbing the last pitch in pitch black....

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 29th Sep 2013
20 Cuckoo Dove Crack

Brilliant splitter crack for the first 2/3, but the last bit is a bit sandy.

Trad 15m Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 29th Sep 2013
25 Gravity ((NEIL'S PROJECT))

Awesome moves and some super pockets. 3 shots, but with no time to rest between goes (it was 5pm) I couldn't keep it together on the link.

Mixed 15m, 3 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Sun 29th Sep 2013
21 Bolts are Back!

If the trad corner scares you, this is the way up to the main ledge.

Mixed 15m, 5 Wollongong Good Neil Monteith
Sun 29th Sep 2013
22 Stop the Bolts!

Only lead pitch two so that's what the insight applies to, this is the money pitch. What an awesome position! Quite overhanging, rad! Finished the whole route in the dark. Good Sunday arvo adventure!

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4
Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Classic Nick Le Baut
Sun 29th Sep 2013
Fri 27th Sep 2013 - Wollongong
Scarborough Cliffs Scarface Buttress
22 Stop the Bolts!

Finding a 4 pitch route less than 30 minutes from my house? Priceless! A mighty trad-dads ascent with Macca. The 2nd pitch has got to be one of, if not the best, single pitches of trad within an hour of Sydney. Steep, great rock, bomber gear, amazing views. Heaps more to come on this crag as well - stay tuned!

Mixed 88m, 2 Wollongong Very Good Neil Monteith
Fri 27th Sep 2013

Showing all 33 ascents.