Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Wollongong 344 routes in Region

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.925310, -34.302473

Description:

Australias 9th largest city. With excellent beaches, mountain bike trails and a relaxed pace (as compared to Sydney)

1.1. Stanwell Tops 51 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.977207, -34.220965

Description:

The Cliff face overlooking Stanwell Park

Access Issues:

Note that there seemed to be a couple of people living in some of the cliffs in the area.

Approach:

Park at Stanwell Tops, Stonehaven Rd. there is a gravel parking lot. Walk down the Wodi-Wodi track to the lookouts.

1.1.1. Stonehaven 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Unknown
Description:© (bundybear)

Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011.

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There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

1.1.2. Hargraves 26 routes in Area

Summary:
Sport, Unknown and Trad
Description:© (bundybear)

Recently cleaned up with the installation of double RB lower offs for all climbs. A great area on the upper cliff line overlooking Stanwell Park beach. Most of the routes are about 10m in height, and there is plenty of nice shiney stainless steel to keep the punters happy.

Approach:© (bundybear)

Follow the Waddi Waddi track for 300m. Locate the lookout, downclimb the deep cleft in rock behind fenced lookout to reach wide ledge.

1.1.3. Lookout 9 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:© (bundybear)

This is the area below the lookout on the Wadi-Wadi walking track. There is good mix here of trad and sports routes. Most of the routes are 10-12 meters. Either rap in to ledge (belay bolts) or walk down gully behind and below bridge.

1.2. Coalcliff 8 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.975441, -34.235369

Unique Features And Strengths:

Nice bush scenery, healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.

Description:

Small 'gritstone' like buttress of quality rock with a few bolted and top rope only climbs. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track. There i

Access Issues:

The cliff is right next to a walking track, so take care not to cause a scene that will offend/alarm the general public. There appears to have been some chipping and bolt-chopping at this crag in the past. There are several sets of ringbolts that have been hammered over above some of the top-rope climbs. It's probably a good idea to limit any new bolts.

Approach:

25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.

A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.

Where To Stay:

Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden

1.3. Scarface 9 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.950423, -34.267795

Unique Features And Strengths:

Multi-pitch trad climbing with a southerly aspect.

Description:

This area is composed of mostly vertical to overhanging sandstone, with plentiful cracks and horizontals slots. The lower-half is quite tall and clean with lovely clean orange rock, whilst the upper half of the cliff is separated by vegetated ledges and shorter grainer walls.

Access Issues:

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach:

The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out. Walking access is described in each sub-section.

Ethic:

Don't bolt cracks. Please.

1.3.1. Scarface Buttress 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.950086, -34.268076

Description:

An impressive chunk of rock with several new 4-5 pitch mixed routes and very short access. Generally they consist of 15-25m pitches interspersed by good belay ledges. The bottom and middle pitches are generally excellent, however the upper pitches can be vegetated, sandy or short. Or a combo of all three. All routes here require some trad and if you plan to rap the wall a 60m rope. All belays are bolted. The base of the cliff is a bit swampy in places, so be prepared with shoes suitable for wetness.

Approach:

View this marked Google Map to see detailed access information and map. https://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?msid=210377956196981525836.0004eb8f23a0928dfa57f&msa=0&ll=-34.267218,150.953994&spn=0.021492,0.040298&iwloc=0004eb8f61c28e4e026fa

Crag access is from either above (via abseil) or from above by steep climbers track (walk). The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out.

Rap-in Access. 15 minutes. Bushbash 50m east to 4WD road, follow it south for 50m then take hikers trail left (east) at small green post. Follow this trail north-east for 250m to wooden duckboards. In the middle and highest section of the duckboards is a largish tree growing on the right side - there should be a bit of blue tape on it. Jump off duckboards here and follow blue tape markers directly south through scrub for 230m to cliff top GPS co-ord (34 16 04 S, 150 57 00 E). Notes on how to rap the base of the cliff are detailed in the Descents section below.

Walk-down Access. 20 minutes. Bushbash 50m east from carpark to 4WD road. Follow this road south past little green sign and two power-poles. 15m south from the 2nd power-pole look for climbers trail on the left - currently marked by rock cairn and pink string in tree. Follow faint trail east for 50m until it drops sharply over escarpment. Follow pink string and rock cairns down steep hill, into rock gully then to base of large cliff. Follow base of cliff along (short section of fixed rope) with some steep and muddy sections to cave formed by giant block. Avian Abbatior is 10m right of this. Shoes that don't mind mud recommend.

Descent Notes:

Rap in access. 10m back from the top of the cliff is a large metal pulley contraption stuck in the ground - leftovers from some sort of historical cabling. Walk out to cliff edge and find shoulder deep slot between two large scoopy rock ledges. Squeeze down slot onto mossy ledge and find double ring bolt anchor. Rap straight out (parallel with slot) over lip of cave and down to vegetated ledge with short length of red fixed rope. Keep rapping past this fixed rope to second set of DRBs at top of lovely orange overhung wall. Now rap 35m down to ground, or if your rope is short land on the rock ledge about 10m above ground, and use DRB on this ledge to make it to the ground. WATCH rope length - don't rap off the ends of your rope! Bring prussics to escape.

History:

The cliff appears untouched by climbers until 2013. Surely someone tried something here previously????

1.4. Rat's Crag 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.859291, -34.360883

Description:

11 climbs , grades 22 - 14

Access Issues:

North east of the Picton/Mt Ousley Road over pass. On the right side, heading south, just past the north bound on-ramp (picton road ramp) = -34.364026, 150.859380 (perhaps)

Approach:

Heading South - park at truck stop parking 1.1km past the Crag Heading North - park at truck stop parking, just before Clive Bissell Drive intersection

(2012-Oct : let me get back to you on approach options)

1.5. Mt Keira 220 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.855477, -34.402523

Unique Features And Strengths:

As at Nov. 2012 - over 50 re-bolted routes. With 210+ climbs. Many trad and mixed routes. Home of the moderate climb and popular with beginners and intermediates.

Description:

Four faces. Popular West Face with loads of easier/shorter routes, South Face is less often visited and more exposed and the North Face is even more so. East face is becoming very overgrown and had a 2nd big rock slide recently (Jan. 2012).. so be warned !

The West has some has many varied short climbs, with easy access. It is the most popular area.

The South has some good climbing, degenerating into total choss heading further around to the northern areas, where the cliff rises to 40m. Narrow access track above steep bush Hot in the summer, great in the winter.

There is a cafe (currently closed for reno. @ Nov.2012) in the Mt Keira car park.

Access Issues:

NOTE: * MT KEIRA ROAD CLOSURE (council road works) * @ 13/3/14 update - Mount Keira Road will remain closed (till Oct 2014) WCC recently completed road works but geotechnical staff has found that another section of road has subsided - access only will be via Clive Bissel Drive or Picton Road (north access routes)

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

Drive to the Mt Keira lookout. Via either Mt Ousley -> Picton Rd -> MtK Rd or up from Wollongong via the MtK rd. From the MtKeira car park the crags are only 5 minutes walk away.

Where To Stay:

Wollongong and environs.

Ethic:

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

History:

Bill James in the mid-60's followed by the prolific Graeme Hill mid-70's and his side kick Chunder (Russell Chudleigh). Contributions from Jon Muir (from 1977) , Ian Anger(ferret) , Dave Thomas, Ant Prehn (from 1978) , Rod Young(from 1981) Original descriptions by Ant. Penh/Tucker/ViBeS/Rod Young/TJ

1.5.1. North Face 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.856189, -34.400023

Description:

Small area, harder higher routes than the West Face area

Approach:

From The Mt Keira car park walk back down the entrance road for exactly 5 minutes (350m) . On the right - just as the road starts to turn left sharply - there is a rock out-crop , scramble up the rock steps and then:

  • head immediately down the steep slippery gully to the 1st wall.

or

  • head right across the top of the climbs to get to the climbs beyond 'Wallyard arete'
History:

G Hill, R Young, A Prehn, S Bullen, J Muir, B James, J Hoy

1.5.2. West Face 90 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.853999, -34.402677

Description:

The West Face is probably the most frequently climbed area at Mt Keira. It has a maximum height of 15m with approx. 90climbs. All of the bracketed routes have been replaced with steel ring bolts.

Approach:

At the MtKeira Lookout Area - head right when you enter the lookout area and park near the fire trial chain gate (south). Walk down this fire-trail, on the Dave Walsh Walking Track, past the 'Five Islands' lookout. Keep on the main track (as a few minor tracks head off across to the tops of the climbs) for ~300m until you head down past a large ant hill (on your left) then through a small gully of rocks (with a flat rocky outcrop to your left) . Follow the distinct track around to the right (heading towards boulders) and you'll see the main path and first of the smaller climbs. (on the right)

1.5.3. South Face 65 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.854105, -34.404191

Description:

Has some good climbing on the short left hand sections of the south side of Mt Keira. Degenerates to total choss further around towards the North areas. All accessible via a narrow track above steep jungle.

Approach:

Access as for the West Face but go left of the Termite Mound down the rock-stepped track (Dave Walsh track) and hook around on the non-descript tracks (past Prow Prowess). Go to the left after descending about 25m vert (you will know you are there as you get to a red faced wall (on the left) with the route names (G) etched in the rock and a ledge track (heading east) that takes you past all the routes.

1.5.4. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.857398, -34.403190

Description:

Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.

Approach:

Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest

1.5.5. Pox Crag 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.857760, -34.402412

Description:

In 1994 - "Good in the morning sun, and worhtwhile for bouldering and top-roping, and not much else. ",. In 2012 status = unknown.

Approach:

Below the northern lookout platforms, just right of the shop( as you stand in the car park and look north)

1.6. Lee's Road 6 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Unknown

1.7. Hangdog Climbing Gym 39 routes in Gym

Summary:
Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.887040, -34.437029

Description:

This is a basic gym listing. It is locked and cannot be edited.

If you climb at Hangdog Climbing Gym you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.

If you are from Hangdog Climbing Gym and would like to unlock this page to make a more tailored and detailed listing please contact us (http://www.thecrag.com/article/ContactUs)

Approach:

130 Auburn Street Wollongong NSW

1.7.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

Summary:
All Sport

1.7.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

Summary:
All Boulder