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Table of contents

1. Wollongong 356 routes in Area

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.925310, -34.302473

Unique Features And Strengths:

Mostly short (8 - 18m) sandstone climbs with easy access. There are also some multi-pitch adventures along the escarpment north of Wollongong.


Australias 9th largest city. With excellent beaches, mountain bike trails and a relaxed pace (as compared to Sydney)

Access Issues:

There are no serious access issues in the region. Don't be a dick and mess up access for future generations by bolting within sight of tourist tracks or pissing off rangers.


This area is about 1.25 hours drive from CBD of Sydney. Crags are within a 20km (max.) range of each other. Most are easy to drive-to and then short walk access.


Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

1.1. Stanwell Tops 50 routes in Crag

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.974264, -34.223566

Unique Features And Strengths:

Single pitch sandstone climbing above the sea-side town of Stanwell Park.


Mostly sport climbing on ringbolts, but there are also some excellent crack routes as well.


Drive to intersection of Stonehaven Rd and Bendena Garden in the town of Stanwell Tops. Park in large open gravel carpark next to The Tumbling Waters/Garden of Peace resort entrance behind the bus-stop.

1.1.1. Hargraves Lookout 34 routes in Cliff

Sport, Trad and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.978562, -34.222925


A super convenient single-pitch sandstone crag overlooking the beautiful Stanwell Park. Most routes are short (8-15m high) and are well bolted with ringbolts and lower-offs. There are a couple of good trad cracks as well. There is a homeless man living in a cave under the lookout. Say hi!


Drive to intersection of Stonehaven Rd and Bendena Garden in the town of Stanwell Tops. Park in large open gravel carpark next to The Tumbling Waters/Garden of Peace resort entrance. Walk down Wodi Wodi walking track behind the resort fence, passing a small stream that goes under their fence to epic pool. After the stream the walking track splits, take the left turn and shortly after you will reach a rocky lookout with chain fence. The rock chimney gully on the far side of the fence is the walk-down access point to bottom of the cliff. All up the walk is less than 5 minutes.

Descent Notes:

Most routes have lower-offs. There are also large trees above the Lookout sector.


Ian Anger was possibly the first climber to sniff around here in the early 1980s. There were a couple of rusty carrots on the Lookout sector that date from this time. In the 1990s local climber Chris Wilmott bolted many of the first sport routes here. A decade later Shire boys Shaun Martin and Jason Lammers finished the remaining routes off. Hargraves 25 routes in Sector
Sport, Top Rope and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.978595, -34.222690

Description:© (bundybear)

This is the family friendly sector of the cliff, with a good selection of sport routes and the occasional dirty crack. Routes are closely spaced with a nice flat cliff base for belaying. This whole crag was renovated with shiny stainless steel ringbolts and lower-offs in the late 2000s.

Approach:© (bundybear)

This is the 10m-ish high section of cliff running north from the bottom of the chimney descent gully. It is covered in ringbolts.

Descent Notes:© (bundybear)

Most routes have lower-offs. The top of the cliff is vegetated and wet so getting top-ropes up without leading is a pain.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Crakarett

The arete at the bottom of the walk down gully. Starts with short diagonal handcrack then traverse right to arête.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

20 Sport 10m, 3
2 Cosmic Punk

On main wall at mouth of walk down gully, directly opposite 'Crakarett'. Starts at the sandy right facing flake.

17 Trad 8m
3 Dances With Wolves

5m R of CP at corner crack formed by right side of large block. Layback up corner then finish up short wall past RB. Belay off trees.

FA: Chris Sykes, Luke Wilmott, 1993

14 Mixed 8m, 1
4 Top-rope Route 1

Top-rope only. 3m right or DWW at end of second block. Up the wall past left end of small roof.

Top rope
5 Top-rope Route 2

Top-rope only. 3m right of Top-rope Route 2. Up the wall through right end of small roof.

Top rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Little Flower

Start 9m R of DwW at right facing flake. Use holds on lower flake to obtain horizontal crack (can) then traverse right to RB then up and left past two more RBs to lower-off at top. A super big stick-click could avoid the trad.

FA: Chris Wilmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

18 Sport 9m, 3
7 Kisses the Rock

2m R of LF. Crack line weakness with two high ringbolts. Finger and handsized cams required in lower half.

FA: John Jakimysyszyn, Chris Wilmott, 1993

18 Mixed 9m, 2
8 ** Blow Hole

1m right of KtR. Trad protected wall climbing with cams in horizontals. No bolts!

FA: Chris Willmott, John Jakimyszyn, 1993

19 Trad 11m
9 Cane Toad

Well bolted sport route up clean grey streak behind tree. Finish right to shared lower-off.

FA: Roger Bourne, Chris Wilmott, 1993

20 Sport 11m, 4
10 * After the Storm

Starts at landmark detached right facing flake. Climb flake and mantle on to ledge, clip high RB then up orange streak past bolts to top.

FA: Chris Willmott, Roger Bourne, 1993

18 Sport 10m, 3
11 ** Jugs Macdougall

As per Jugs, but chicken out left at move to RB and then to lower off.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

19 Sport 10m
12 * Jugs

Nice start which turns in to desparate crimping the higher you go. Start up face just right of monster flake then take right tending line of RBs. Shared Lower off with NN. Starts slightly right of AtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23 Sport 12m, 3
13 Jugs Naiden

Link-up of Jugs into Naiden?

21 Sport 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Neville Naiden / End of an Era

2m right of Jugs at right end of orange patch at base of cliff. Easy start on sandy holds to solid crimping on good rock. Save some juice for the top. This appears to be a bolted version of the old top-rope problem End of an Era.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22 Sport 10m, 4
15 Interdependence

Junk trad on crap rock. Some sort of corner to ramp. Forget it! Start 6m of NN

14 Trad 9m
16 Rose By Annie Other Name

Up easy ramp to RB, then up and back slightly to the right.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

19 Sport 9m, 3
17 * i-Nanderthol

Pop up to break directly below 1st RB. Then up on some smallish holds to finish on shared lower off with RbAON. Starts just right of BtS

FA: Shaun Martin, 2010

21 Sport 10m, 4
18 * Back to School

Climb starts right next to tree. This climb is excellent and it easy for the grade.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

20 Sport 10m, 3
19 * In Lieu of the Gym

Climb 1.5 meters next to large gum tree.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2010

23 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
20 The Dance Goes On

One of the best routes here. Starts 20m right of In Lieu of the Gym. Awesome start moves on good little pockets, then tend right through horizontal breaks.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn,Chris Sykes, 1993

19 Sport 10m, 4
21 Don't Guild the Orchard

Top-rope only. 5m right of The Dance Goes On. Pull onto small ledge. Up wall, avoiding clumps of orchids, left at top to avoid damaging many small native orchids at top.

17 Top rope 10m
22 At Peace

Top-rope only. 2m left of red gum. At cliff-base near waterfall. Wall past small tree to flake at red gum. Up flake.

18 Top rope 10m

The following routes are left-over top-rope routes from the 90s that may or may not now be recent bolted and named routes.

23 (Unnamed 1)

Top-rope only. 6m right of Interdependence. 1m left of gum. Wall right of low, short corner. Sustained, with good moves in shallow scoop at top.

21 Top rope 10m
24 (Unnamed 2)

Top-rope only. 2m right of Unnamed 1. Flake to first horizontal, then to short, little corner at top.

20 Top rope 10m
25 (Unnamed 3)

Top-rope only. 4m right of Unnamed 2. Blunt arete. Up easily to one good move on wall at top.

19 Top rope 10m Lookout 9 routes in Sector
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.978525, -34.223222


This is the southern section of wall, and situated right below the brick-work remains of the old lookout on far side of chain fence. The routes are a little taller and a lot more exposed than the routes at Hargraves sector with a traddy feel. There are some random white numbers written at the base of some routes - these are not the right grades!


Walk down the chimney descent gully, and then turn right and hook around onto very narrow rock ledge perched above 15m drop. Look for ringbolt belays and stay clipped in at all times! This is not a suitable spot for kids, dogs or incompetents.

Descent Notes:

Use the large trees at the top of the cliff for belay anchors. There are no top bolts.


There is some confusion about which route is which at this cliff - I (Neil) have tried to make sense of conflicting route descriptions supplied in Rock magazine new routes update guidelets #30 & #38. If you know better please fix the mistakes!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Heart is Pretty Starred

Filthy, contrived and retro-bolts an established route. What a winner! Climb North Crack for one RB then put your blinkers on and step right onto the face right of the crack using shallow diagonal seam crack in the middle. This route needs a good brushing - or maybe just a good chopping.

FA: David Brown, John Koster, 1996

19 Sport 13m, 4
2 * North Crack

Good trad route that got partially retro-bolted. The undercut fused crack on right side of wall, with a U bolt and old rusty carrot to belay off. Up crack (placing trad and ignoring retrobolt on right wall) to right side of cave. Finish up wide crack protected by fist sized cams. Belay off tree way back on other side of chimney gully.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18 Trad 13m
3 ** Sunday the 13th

One of the best splitter cracks in the region. Starts 2m left of North Crack - belay off single U bolt to the left of the crack. Great handcrack to small cave, take a breather then continue up perfect splitter above to monster belay tree right on top. If you are a sport-climbing wuss you can actually climb this entire route clipping the bolts on the route to the left.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1992

17 Trad 13m
4 ** Eat My Brains

Very contrived but actually really fun. Sadly the bolts would be better positioned further to the left - as that is where you climb, and they wouldn't be within clipping distance of the trad crack. Anyway. Start up the Sunday the 13th crack for a move, then traverse left onto face and up to cave. Swing through undercut and climb featured wall above climbing mostly to the left of the bolts. Top-out to mega tree belay.

FA: John Koster, David Brown, 1996

22 Sport 13m, 5
5 All Hands on Deck

2m left of Sunday the 13th. Little ramp to cave. Wall above cave. Looks very badly protected - was this actually only a top-rope route?

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

18 Trad 10m
6 Up Periscope

Top-rope only. 3m left of All Hands on Deck. Climb to notch in roof cave. Finger crack above.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

19 Top rope 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The next climb is 25m left of Up Periscope but is reached by scrambling down from the southern end of the cliff.

7 Bliss

Start is reached by scrambling down from wide ledge at south end of cliff. Traverse across pocketed wall and finish up wide flake crack

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

14 Trad 8m

The next route is on the lower cliffline, directly below the route Bliss. A good path weaves down to it from the southern end. Why is there a good path? Because as of March 2015 a homeless man is living in a cave at the base of this route!

8 * Mid-life Crisis

Some of the best rock at this cliff and a quality route. Starts at far left end of lower cliff. Step on to small ledge, up through edge of cave.

FA: Chris Wilmott, 1993

19 Sport 7m, 3
9 STT 23 Unknown 14m 2

1.1.2. Stonehaven 16 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.977211, -34.226002


Different aspect to the other crags at Stanwell. Cliff here is quite tall, some 25m high. The Chain-Saw buttress, in particular, is great with some nice sports climbs here. Track re-opened oct 2011. There is also the potential for some more development in this area, so bring your drill and find a nice line for yourself.


Park/Start at the end of the 'Stonehaven' Rd (Stanwells Tops). Walk past the 'tumbling waters' retreat, along its fence line and cross a creek and head up the path. At the 1st T intersection go right (heading away from the 'Hargraves' fenced lookout area). Take the next left path and then again the next left turning (white sandy leafy, not yellow rocky path), head along for 80m. 10m before this path ends at the cliff face, take the right hand 45degree turn off (heading south). You will soon see a large rock outcrop (with views of the beach) move to the right of it down the hill past a mtb "berm". Pass over 3 natural rock steps and 30m on (at right angles to the track you are on, 14m before the end of the track) there is a path heading east - follow this tree marked path to the bolted top of the climb.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Chain-saw

Start at the left side of the small cave. Climb up past 5 RB to Double RB lower offs. 1st and 3rd RB tough !

FA: Chris Wilmont, Chris Sykes, 1994

18 Sport 19m, 5
2 * Princess Lauren of Stonehaven

Hardish start (18) as for C-S past 2 bolts. Then continue to move right on EZer ground (15/6) past another 4 RB to DRB anchor. Some great climbing up high amoungst the trees and beautiful views of Stanwell Park Beach.

FA: Bundy, 2006

18 Sport 20m
3 Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m
4 ** Handful

Start on arete. Tricky start past 2nd RB then great climbing on left wall, move to arete towards the top. Finish back on left at hidden lower offs. A sweet climb ...

FA: Chris Wilmont, 1993

20 Sport 18m, 5
5 * Shaun's Route

Start 1m right of Handful. Up slabby wall to lower offs.

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

22 Sport 14m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 * Blood

1m left of Syko. Stick clip 1st RB

FA: Shaun Martin, 2006

23 Sport 15m 5
7 * Syko

The corner crack.

FA: Chris Sykes, Chris Wilmont, 1993

15 Trad 15m
8 Shoulders

On ledge above start of Syko. Crack, then chimney.

FA: Chris Sykes,Chris Wilmott, 1993

10 Trad 5m
9 Carpeted Green

11m right of Shoulders. Arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

16 Trad 5m
10 Bugs

2m right of Carpeted Green. Wall and crack.

FA: Chris Wilmott,John Jakimyszyn, 1993

14 Trad 5m
11 Life's Like That

Short corner to roof. Left to wide crack, then scramble. Needs lower-off bolts.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Mark Parkinson, 1995

15 Trad 12m
12 One Step in the Clouds

Top-rope only. 100m right of Bugs. Start at left end of ledge. Up line of ironstone and right at top.

21 Top rope 23m
13 Send Down the Clowns

5m right of One Step in the Clouds. Four BRs. Use double ropes to avoid rope drag. Start on ledge at left end of overhang to right of first BR. Gain wall. Up wall to small ledge leading right to arete and little corner. Up arete.

FA: Chris Wilmott,Roger Bourne, 1993

18 Mixed 21m, 4
14 Rocks Don't Floss

Top-rope only. 3m right of Send Down the Clowns at low cave. Good start to small ledge. Left into honeycomb roof. Continue as far as you dare and gain wall. Short wall to corner. Up.

18 Top rope 21m
15 For the Birds

Top-rope only. 5m right of Rocks Don't Floss. Wall. Crux is at top.

22 Top rope 20m
16 Unforgiven

3m right of For the Birds. Crack. Left at top through bushes.

FA: Harry Moss, 1993

17 Trad 17m

1.2. The Viaduct 0 routes in Cliff


A major series of imposing cliffs facing north, tucked away in a valley west of Stanwell Park. It's a lovelty remote spot in sun in winter. Bush access above and below cliff is relativity thick but clearer at cliff.


Walk up Woddi Woddi track as to Mt Mitchell climbign area then walk bush bash along top of cliffs west to these cliffs.

Descent Notes:

You can scramble down descent gullies at various spots.


According to 1999 Rock magazine new climbs guidelet "Only a few top-rope routes have been done here."

1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag 9 routes in Crag

Top Rope, Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.975441, -34.235369

Unique Features And Strengths:

Short gritstone-like buttress of good rock with nice bush scenery and a healthy 30min. walk up to the crag.


This little crag has seen local interest for decades, but the steep walk and north-facing aspect has kept its obscurity intact. The climbing is much like The Shire, short and compact with good quality rock and closely spaced bolts. Top-roping any of these routes is easy, with a tourist track running along the cliff-top. The cliff faces north-west (morning shade) and is right next to a tourist track.

Access Issues:

The cliff is right next to a walking track, so take care not to cause a scene that will offend/alarm the general public. There appears to have been some chipping and bolt-chopping at this crag in the past. There are several sets of ringbolts that have been hammered over above some of the top-rope climbs. It's probably a good idea to limit any new bolts.


25min. (1.6km, 200m vertical) steep walk up the Wodi Wodi walking track (start on LHD road, just 750m north of Coalcliff Railway Station). Crag = left, 50m before the top track T-Intersection. Follow the track which initially heads north through a cow paddock then into the forest trending up and around the side of the hill. After about 10-15 minutes walking, the track has its 1st trail split (at a large slightly blackened tree) - the lower path heads to Stanwell Park. Take the upper path to the routes and walk for another 10-15 minutes (on this upper path - you will have to climb over a large fallen tree log, with a step cut into it & also under a large fallen/sawn tree). There will be one other path splitting - again take the upper route. Nearing the top of the path , on the left-hand side, you will start to see the faces of the climbs.

A few car spots available on the road beside the Wodi Wodi Track Sign on the left edge (heading north) of Lawrence Hargrave Drive(LHD), just 750m past the Coalcliff railway station.

Where To Stay:

Scarborough pub , 4km south, has an excellent outdoor beer garden


This crag has, until very recently, been a total mystery when it comes to history. Ant Harris and Brian Forbes did a ground up first ascent on the chossy eastern end of the cliff 1984, but it took another decade before he returned. In 1995 Ant Harris bolted the first routes on the small sport-bolted buttress and also did a few easier trad and top-rope routes. Mark Woodford came in a month later and added a 20. In the 1999 Rock magazine New Climbs guidelet these routes are mentioned as being on Mt Mitchell but no further info was given. Sometime in the last decade ringbolt anchors were added to the top of many of the easier routes, but were then damaged - not sure by whom. There has also been some random chipping done in recent years.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Eastern End

As you hike up the hill you can see this major cliffline visible through the trees far above. From a distance it looks quite impressive, with large roofs and 30m+ in height. Sadly it is mostly choss and moss. There is one recorded route and possible evidence of others. To get to this section walk a few hundred metres left along the cliff base from the main small ringbolted buttress where Sperm Donar is.

1 Fade to Grey

There is at least one carrot bolt on a mossy wall right of large roofs. This is probably that route. From Ant Harris "This was one of my first excursions in the Illawarra region. We bolted on lead ground-up in a good old fashioned nightmare kind of way. We conservatively graded it 19MO. To be honest I dont think its worth cleaning or retro bolting or even remembering."

FA: Brian Forbes,Ant Harris, 1984

19 M0 Trad

Trackside Sector

These routes are all on the short gritstone like buttress right next to the tourist walking track. The first four routes are on a little terrace 10m above the track and have obvious ringbolts.

2 Old Ant Harris Project

Just right of the 'camping cave' and just left of Sperm Donor is this lovely wall with bolt holes but no bolts. Ant Harris top-roped the route and drilled the holes, but then moved away before actually finishing the job. Grade is a mystery.

Set by Ant Harris,(toprope only), 1995

Top rope 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Sperm Donor

Start just right of tree, 2m left of Dreg Mix. Follow the 4 RBs to single bolt lower-off at top. Some nice sequency moves through crux! Originally graded 26, so treat the grade of 24 with some skepticism.

FA: Ant Harris,Marrisa Gunning, 1995

24 Sport 9m, 4
4 ** Dreg Mix

The crag classic? The middle of the three ringbolted routes on the west facing wall. Very sustained climbing on pockets and crimps. 3 ringbolts to lower-off. Ant Harris recalls "I remember a hideously difficult mono doigt start off a crumbly hold before getting into the pockets and a big dyno up at the top." He gave the route grade 27. Consensus repeats since appear to have it at grade 23/24.

FA: Ant Harris, 1995

23 Sport 8m, 3
5 * New Sport For Old FIsherman

The furthest right route on the main ringbolted wall, about 4m right of Dreg Mix. Three RBs to lower-off. This climb has some great pockets!

FA: Mark Woodard, 1995

20 Sport 8m, 3
6 * Deb Stoops to Conquer

Top-rope only. This lovely looking juggy overhung arete is situated right above the tourist track. Once on the midway ledge climb the unlikely 4m off-centre slab arete. There used to be a couple of anchor ringbolts above this route, but some moron has hammered them flat. Set anchors off tree way back instead.

FA: Ant Harris,Marissa Gunning,(top-rope only), 1995

16 Top rope 11m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Focus Puller

2/3rd of a crack climb with ledge and then minor overhang and vertical wall from ledge (crux). Look for the Buddha in the cave. Don't trust the two dodgy ringbolts, use tree for belay. Accidentally reclaimed as a new route in 2010 and called Douggie Gone by Ryan Godlewski.

FA: Ant Harris,Mick Kirby, 1995

17 Trad 8m
8 Chip Off the Old Block

Just right of Focus Puller is a nice looking face - scarred by a hefty amount of subtle chipping. There are top-rope ringbolts on the ledge.

Top rope 10m
9 * Miner Work

15m right of Deb Stoops to Conquer is a slabby right facing arete, with a bunch of subtle chipped holds at ground level (all can be ignored at same grade). Tricky little start to good medium cam break, then mantle onto ledge (vital shallow finger sized cam). Boldly smear layaway up the slabby upper arete section. Tree belay well back (there used to be bolts but they have been chopped)

FA: First recorded lead ascent - Neil Monteith, 2013

14 Trad 10m

1.4. Coalcliff South 11 routes in Crag

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.970296, -34.241098

Unique Features And Strengths:

Like mixing the Blue Mountains with Point Perp. Massive jungle-infested sandstone cliffs overlooking the coal mine directly above the town of Coalcliff.


This is a major cliffline, but like a lot of this area, the base is festooned with swamps and thick jungle making an approach from above the only real option. The cliffs are about 40m high, and are generally featured with large roofs, aretes and vegetation. There is good patches of rock if you are keen and don't mind hanging belays or alternatively, just like Point Perp, it is easy to top-rope from above if you are afraid to commit to a lead ascent. Climbers should keep a very low profile when climbing here as access is potentially dubious. Old carrots and fixed hanger should be treated with caution.

Access Issues:

Historically this cliffline has had access 'issues' due to the coal mine below the cliff. However in recent years the mine has shut-down and as of late 2014 the land above the cliff has been purchased by BHP as some sort of conservation land. The cliff's themselves are on a narrow strip of public land. There is a tourist walking track running along the top of the whole escarpment so (presumably?) it is ok to be climbing here. But play it safe and keep a low profile. Don't take large groups here (unlikely considering the access!) and maybe don't wear bright clothes. Avoid leaving climbing gear at the top of the lookouts. If you are placing bolts make them hidden from above if placing them near the lookouts. Treat any person with authority (security, police, rangers) with respect! Interesting article http://www.illawarramercury.com.au/story/2317347/illawarra-coal-coy-on-how-escarpment-land-will-be-used/


The cliffs are best approached from above due to the private coal mine underneath the crag. Park on Old Princes Highway just south of the Boomerang Golf Course and follow fire-roads east and north to reach top of crag at powerlines. These roads are private property (Illawara Coal) but don't seem to be policed apart from rarely on weekends . Access at your own risk and if bailed up by rangers, police or security be respectful and follow directions. You can also walk from below legally if you take the Wodi Wodi Track which hikes up from the road just south of Stanwell Park and joins into the Illawara Escarpment walking track. This takes about 50 minutes. Rap in access from above for all climbs.


There are bolts here already. If you are placing new bolts here please make them 316 grade stainless steel and use glue-ins. The rock is soft and the cliff gets salt from the nearby ocean. Hide all bolts at the top of the cliff at lookouts so authorities can't see them.


The history is a mystery. If you know anything please add it to this guide! Rumor has it that Bruce Stevens (who's that?) did some routes here. Others have visited but no one seems to know much.

1.4.1. Ships Prow 8 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.967150, -34.242160


A large overhung series of aretes and roofs clearly visible about 100m north of the Powerline Lookout.


From the Powerline Lookout walk back up the road for 50m and take a right turn onto an overgrown sideroad that leads to a single powerpole surrounded by thick bush. Locate small track cut through bush on far side of powerpole (marked with blue tape). Follow this cut trail along rocky ledges and thick jungle to rock cairn. Walk out to cliff edge by scrambling down boulders and bush track. Rap u-bolts are on large boulder about 2m back from top of cliff.

Descent Notes:

Rap-in - climb out!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Daddy Crack

Quality trad. Will probably only be repeated by most climbers on top-rope. Pity, as the gear is bomber. Rap from far northern ringbolts (2m right of small cave with FHs) to double ring belay on wall above undercut ledge (and feet on huge death block). Up splitter crack, which opens and closes for a few metres then right onto slab. Cams in pockets for a few metres then through steep section (seeps after rain) and final hard move up seam crack. Hand traverse left a few moves to mantle up to ledge. Leave a sling or rap rope on the lip of the ledge as a runner when you rap down.

FA: @nmonteith, 12th Mar

21 Trad 25m
2 ** Sleep is for the Weak

One of the best here - well bolted, great rock. Rap in from two FHs in back of small cave, 5m right of Humidify to hanging belay above chossy undercut ledge. Climb slightly right on horizontals, then reachy move to crimpy 'slab'. Up right side of arete on great scoops then weird mantle up left then up face above. Finish left of perched boulder.

FA: @nmonteith,@pthomson, 2015

22 Sport 25m, 9
3 ** Humidify

Lovely technical arete on top quality orange rock. 20m further along the ledge from rap anchors above Busted is another set of rap anchors set on a horizontal ledge. Rap down keeping rope to the north of the arete. Belay on small ledge. Climb arete, finishing out left of summit block.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jeff Crass, 2015

24 Sport 15m, 5
4 * Busted by the Fuzz

The top half of this pitch is great, but the lower section is reachy and chossy (but well protected). Walk 10m north of Captain Cheese anchors to a second set of anchors set on small vertical wall on narrow ledge. Rap 40m down off these to anchor on arete right of corner with tiny ledge on the right about 10m above the ground - double bolt belay. Climb left into corner for a move, step left onto short arete, through reachy rooflet and then left across exposed face of flakes under monster roof to bolt belay at juggy section. Finish as for pitch 2 of Tree Tornado.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jeff Crass, 2015

21 Sport 25m, 9
5 *** Tree Tornado

Pretty improbable for the grade, traversing under and out some massive roofs. Take plenty of long draws and a few slings to keep the rope-drag under control. The route starts at same belay shared with Captain Cheese and shared the first few bolts with that route. Rap down the Captain Cheese corner to the semi-hanging belay in sandy white scoop to the right of the arete. Start by traversing right along tricky wall to reach major corner with fern. Now launch up and right onto white juggy overhung face trending right to stance in corner under huge roof. Swing out right across juggy break to lip of roof, then finish up excellent thin slab and face and flake above. Double UB belay at op, but it's probably better to rig rope off rap bolts in boulder above Captain Cheese. At least 12 bolts on this route in total. It can be split into two pitches.

FA: Neil Monteith, Leith Dawes, 2015

20 Sport 35m 2, 12
6 * Captain Cheese

Steep corner crack on trad with bolted belays. Very airy! Both pitches can be combined into one mega pitch if you bring enough trad. To descend fix rap rope to double u-bolts in large boulder on top of cliff. Rap down the corner (which is what you are climbing up). At base of corner keep rapping down overhung arete to semi-hanging belay in white sandy scoop (shared pitch 2 belay with Titanical). It is also possible to extend top rap anchor with long slings and rap in on doubled ropes and pull them afterwards for mega commitment factor.

  1. 13m (20) Traverse directly right from belay past u-bolt to overhung corner crack (u-bolt). Climb the very overhung right side of corner on bubbly pockets, placing medium/large cams in horizontals. When a break finally appears on the left wall step over to it and traverse across to double u-bolt hanging belay on arete (shared anchor with Titanical).

  2. 20m (17) Very exposed! Straight up to roof and corner crack, that starts wide and thins quickly. Stem up this with occasional ledges to top. This pitch is very well protected on trad - take cams from #4 to #0.25 thin finger size. Belay well back on double u-bolts in boulder.

FA: Neil Monteith (P1), Joe the American (P2), 2015

20 Mixed 33m 2, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 *** Titanical

Mega overhung arete that can be led as one giant pitch or three little pitches with semi-hanging belays. Best way is to link the first two pitches into one pitch. The route is all bolts. Fix rope and rap in down Captain Cheese off double u-bolts on boulder at top of cliff. Rap down all the way to the base of the killer arete and double u-bolt hanging belay with teeny tiny footledge ledge (you may need to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall - it's overhung!)

  1. 12m (23) Superb technical arete on pockets. Start on right side, then switch to left side, then finish right side. Finish in white sandy scoop - semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

  2. 10m (22) Swing left onto 'tufa' and undercut arete (a bit chossy) then up rad square arete feature to semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

  3. 20m (22) Continue up the exposed arete to top. This pitch is a bit contrived with the corner just to the right in a few spots. The last bolt is a tough and scary clip! (maybe put a sling on it when you rap in)

FA: Neil Monteith,Joe the American, 2015

23 Sport 42m 3
8 ** Bow Wave

Right-trending face route up a series of flakes. Rap down south side of Titanical arete from u-bolts in boulder. Kick yourself down so you stay connected to the overhung wall until you can reach one of the bolts on this route and can clip in. Rap down and left to tiny vegetated ledge and giant horizontal u-bolt belay. Traverse right from belay and up mini arete to break. Crimp up then delicate traverse right across flakes to finishes at hanging bolt belay at end of pitch 1 of the Captain Cheese. Finish as for Captain Cheese or Titanical pitch 3.

FA: Neil Monteith, Joe the American, 2015

22 Sport 18m, 7

1.4.2. Powerline Lookout 3 routes in Sector

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.966488, -34.242682


The most obvious bit of rock along this escarpment. This is a 30m high orange wall with three powerlines running over the top, located slap bang in the middle of the cliffline. It has also been used extensively as a car launching spot - as evidence by the numerous decaying wrecks at the base of the cliff! Sadly, the rock quality isn't great but the position is pretty special.


Follow fire-roads and powerlines right to the top of the cliff from Old Princess Highway. It is about a 3km walk.

Descent Notes:

Rap in access. DO NOT TRUST the old bolts. Tie off something else.


Ant Harris is the first person to own up to climbing in this area, establishing Car Crash in 1993. After 1993 someone did an appalling bolting job on Flying Car Arete. In 2015 Neil Monteith added Trespass.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Car Crash

A nice looking orange face with at least two stainless carrots on right side of orange wall. Finishes up small left facing corner (trad). This route starts on the ground in the jungle. There are two new u-bolts at the top. This route is probably a bit bold - it was pre-inspected and top-roped prior to first ascent.

FA: Ant Harris,Phil Allen, 1993

21 Mixed 25m, 2
2 ** Trespass

A much gawked at feature from the train line below. This climbs the center of the major orange wall. First five bolts is technical reachy face climbing, then left and up short corner and major flake feature. The rock quality deteriorates in the top half. There are double U-bolts at the top of the cliff - rap from these (extend them with slings if you want to pull your rope down) to double U-bolt hanging belay about 5m above the jungle. You will need to clip into a couple of bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall. The route is protected by bomber new U-bolts, unlike other routes on this wall!

FA: @nmonteith,@zswander, 2015

24 Sport 25m, 11
3 Flying Car Arete

The major bolted arete line directly below the lookout and on the left side of the orange wall (when facing the cliff). There is currently a dodgy FH and a few bolt studs on the top of the cliff. The lead bolts on this are shocking - they stick out more than they are in the rock! Do not trust any of the bolts - please only toprope this route until someone fixes it up! The climb? Rap into hanging belay (two FHs) and climb face that turns into arete then finish out left up exposed sandy face. Official grade, route name and first ascent details all unknown. At least 10 bolts on this route.

FA: If you know anything please fill this in! This was bolted after 1993.

22 Sport 25m

1.5. Scarface 9 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.950423, -34.267795

Unique Features And Strengths:

Multi-pitch trad climbing with a southerly aspect.


This area is composed of mostly vertical to overhanging sandstone, with plentiful cracks and horizontals slots. The lower-half is quite tall and clean with lovely clean orange rock, whilst the upper half of the cliff is separated by vegetated ledges and shorter grainer walls.

Access Issues:

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.


The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out. Walking access is described in each sub-section.


Don't bolt cracks. Please.

1.5.1. Scarface Buttress 9 routes in Sector

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 150.950086, -34.268076


An impressive chunk of rock with several new 4-5 pitch mixed routes and very short access. Generally they consist of 15-25m pitches interspersed by good belay ledges. The bottom and middle pitches are generally excellent, however the upper pitches can be vegetated, sandy or short. Or a combo of all three. All routes here require some trad and if you plan to rap the wall a 60m rope. All belays are bolted. The base of the cliff is a bit swampy in places, so be prepared with shoes suitable for wetness.


View this marked Google Map to see detailed access information and map. https://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?msid=210377956196981525836.0004eb8f23a0928dfa57f&msa=0&ll=-34.267218,150.953994&spn=0.021492,0.040298&iwloc=0004eb8f61c28e4e026fa

Crag access is from either above (via abseil) or from above by steep climbers track (walk). The carpark is located on the Old Princes Highway above the town of Scarborough north of Wollongong. From entrance of Boomerang Golf Course drive 1.7km south on Old Princess Highway and park on east side of road at small dirt pull-out.

Rap-in Access. 15 minutes. Bushbash 50m east to 4WD road, follow it south for 50m then take hikers trail left (east) at small green post. Follow this trail north-east for 250m to wooden duckboards. In the middle and highest section of the duckboards is a largish tree growing on the right side - there should be a bit of blue tape on it. Jump off duckboards here and follow blue tape markers directly south through scrub for 230m to cliff top GPS co-ord (34 16 04 S, 150 57 00 E). Notes on how to rap the base of the cliff are detailed in the Descents section below.

Walk-down Access. 20 minutes. Bushbash 50m east from carpark to 4WD road. Follow this road south past little green sign and two power-poles. 15m south from the 2nd power-pole look for climbers trail on the left - currently marked by rock cairn and pink string in tree. Follow faint trail east for 50m until it drops sharply over escarpment. Follow pink string and rock cairns down steep hill, into rock gully then to base of large cliff. Follow base of cliff along (short section of fixed rope) with some steep and muddy sections to cave formed by giant block. Avian Abbatior is 10m right of this. Shoes that don't mind mud recommend.

Descent Notes:

Rap in access. 10m back from the top of the cliff is a large metal pulley contraption stuck in the ground - leftovers from some sort of historical cabling. Walk out to cliff edge and find shoulder deep slot between two large scoopy rock ledges. Squeeze down slot onto mossy ledge and find double ring bolt anchor. Rap straight out (parallel with slot) over lip of cave and down to vegetated ledge with short length of red fixed rope. Keep rapping past this fixed rope to second set of DRBs at top of lovely orange overhung wall. Now rap 35m down to ground, or if your rope is short land on the rock ledge about 10m above ground, and use DRB on this ledge to make it to the ground. WATCH rope length - don't rap off the ends of your rope! Bring prussics to escape.


The cliff appears untouched by climbers until 2013. Surely someone tried something here previously????

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Avian Abattoir

Weaves around the two monster roof sections on the left end of the cliff, with a lot more sideways climbing than up climbing. This route is mostly bolted, but requires a single set of cams for the upper pitches. A confident second is mandatory - bring prussics. Start about 40m left of Stop the Bolts! at ground level on top of triangular boulder. Look for ringbolts.

  1. 25m (24) Scramble to top of pointy boulder, clip RB then bouldery move up arete to jug and RB. Traverse right along shelf and then up and right across juggy wall to break. Keep traversing 8m right to white rock and easy corner. At top of corner do one tricky move to large ledge under roof and belay bolts. This pitch is all bolts and if you pull on the first bolt it's only grade 18.

  2. 12m (25) Short, steep, funky. Move belay 5m right to end of ledge and 2nd set of belay bolts. Mantle onto shelf and clip RB under intimating roof. Find mega jug under roof and lean back to clip 2nd RB over lip. Now reach to pocket on right and swing onto overhung prow with a hard move to get established onto face. Look for the awesome sneaky kneebar on lip. Up face (RB and #2 Camalot) to belay on mini ledge on right arete. It's possible to combine this pitch into the next pitch.

  3. 17m (23) Left across face on desperate sloping crimps (two RBs) then up to major horizontal. Continue left then up crack through orange steepness to belay ledge at left end of massive roof. Medium and large cams needed for 2nd half of this pitch.

  4. 25m (20) Look Mum - another traverse! Hard move to get past undercut start (RB) then traverse right for 10m (small/medium cams at waist level) above roof then up and right (RB) to vegetation band. Work right (RB) up mossy slab then negotiate plants to small ledge. Finish up slabby wall past 3 RBs to bolt belay in large cave. Exit via last pitch of Stop the Bolts! or Neanderthal.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith (p1, p2, p4) Paul Thompson (p3), 2013

25 Trad 84m 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 * Kaboom

A rap-in, climb out sport pitch on steep featured rock. Neil spent 2 hours hiding in a cave during a thunder storm attempting to bolt this. To get to the rap point climb pitch 1 of Avian Abattoir to ledge. Move belay to 2nd set of anchors on right end of ledge. Rap off these anchors down overhung wall to hanging belay about 6m above the ground at super pockets. Climb pockets, left to flake then back right and up overhung wall to break. Reachy move to arete and up slab to anchors.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith, Paul Thompson, 2013

22 Sport 17m, 7
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * Shattered Wing

Reachy arete climbing on trad - grade may go up if you're short. May get a first pitch at some stage - at the moment it is a rap in climb out single pitch. From anchors above Kaboom rap down the right side of the arete to belay at base of corner at tiny little footledge ledge and single FH (back it up with muedum cams to the left). Traverse left onto overhung arete (small cams in horizontal) then reachy move up arete (#4 camalot in break) then run it out up lovely orange rock to big pocket (#5 camalot) then fun little pockets and finish left onto the arete to anchors.

FA: Paul Thompson, Neil Monteith, 2013

21 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 ** Neanderthal

Four really good pitches, all different and all on good quality rock. Double set of cams to #3 camalot size and single set of wires. Some slings and double ropes are highly recommended for pitches 1 & 2.

  1. 15m (21) Start up Stop the Bolts! choss for 5m to the base of the corner, then follow line of pockets horizontally left (RB) to vertical seam crack. Up this to small belay ledge under roof and DRB.

  2. 17m (24) Bouldery hug move off the ledge and up to lip of roof (RB), now throw caution to the wind and climb the super exposed roof-flake right (medium cams) then up seam crack to jugs. Traverse left along horizontal then up and left past two RBs to ledge. Easily up corner rightwards to final hand traverse right to higher ledge and DRB belay. Double ropes for this pitch!

  3. 20m (22) Pumpy! Great pockets to start up prow then a couple of reachy moves (2 RBs and small/medium cams) to mantle (RB) onto vegetated ledge. Solve the tricky mini slab above this for 5m to gain much larger ledge and DRB. Communication with belayer is problematic.

  4. 14m (19) Short and fun. Left facing corner and seam crack above. Either lower-off single bolt at top of rock, or topout and bush bash uphill for 5m to DRB - then bush bash to top of cliff.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FA: Neil Monteith (P1 & 4) Paul Thompson (P3), 2013

FA: Neil Monteith & Mike Law (P2), 2013

24 Trad 66m 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 *** Stop the Bolts!

An amusing mutl-pitch trad adventure up a very scenic sandstone buttress. The first pitch is a bit scary, the second pitch steep and classy and the top pitches a mix of green and gold. Bring a double rack of cams from #4 Camalot to small finger size, a single set of wires and a couple of slings. You'll also want a single 60m lead rope.

  1. 15m (21) Start at sandy corner 5m to the left of the rap route (when facing the rock). Belay on top of little rock ledge above ferns. Cautiously up sandy flake to base of fused corner. Bridge up this (fiddly but bomber trad) then hand traverse right to belay ledge and DRB belay. Don't forget the bigger cams.

  2. 25m (22) The best pitch of trad near Sydney? From the ledge swing left onto arete to secret hold (and cam placement) then straight up to splitter finger crack. Follow weakness up overhung orange wall, traversing a bit right and then back left to a single bolt. After a cruxy move past the bolt traverse right a metre then another tough move to finish on small ledge on left and DRB belay. If you are keen you could link this into the next pitch.

  3. 15m (21 A0) A bit dirty and scary. Right a metre onto face then up to horizontal. Trend left up dug out crack onto slab and up to DRBs and fixed rope. Hand over hand up this rope past blank slab and vegetated slope (!) to DRB on large terrace.

  4. 25m (20) Up little corner then traverse right along airy horizontal past high RB and right again to little corner. Stem up this to large vegetated cave. Either bush bash right for 3m then wander up easy corner system to arrive at summit rocks or...

  5. 8m (22) Belay in cave at 'hairy rock' DRBs then do the optional finish through juggy roof on left side of cave. Two RBs and tricky mantle out.

FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches) & Macciza Macpherson, 2013

22 Mixed 88m 5, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Bolts are Back!

Bolted arete starting from ground level, directly below the rap route. Sandy breaks make this quite unpleasant unless you scrub in advance on the way down the rap line. Start off rock step above ferns. Up subtle arete then right under roof then up flake crack to small ledge, then up to main ledge. Clip single RB but belay on DRB on the left edge of ledge. #2 Camalot and wires are vital to protect the top bit of this pitch.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 2013

21 Mixed 15m, 5

MAIN LEDGE - The next two routes start on the large ledge at the top of Stop the Bolts! pitch 1. They both share the same lower-off anchor. The easiest way to this ledge is to either not rap all the way to the ground, or the route Bolts are Back.

7 ** Terror Talon Traverse

Every cliff needs a girdle. The second pitch on this one is amazing. The first is currently terrifying and needs a bolt to make it less poo in your pants scary. Bring prussics for leader and second. Start on the left end of Main Ledge as for Stop the Bolts! pitch 2.

  1. 30m (22) Up Stop the Bolts! Pitch 2 for 5m until on lip of roof. Traverse left across orange rock, boldly around the subtle arete with feet right on the lip of monster roof and across the middle bit of Neanderthal Pitch 2 past one RB to blocky corner. Traverse left on small pockets (RB) to hanging belay on arete. Lots of medium/large cams and slings needed for this pitch. Rope drag and communication with belayer problematic.

  2. 20m (19) Wild, exposed and well protected. Possibly the best pitch at Scarface. Drop down (?!) a metre into horizontal break (#2 camalot). Traverse the entire length of the wall (2 RBs + medium/large cams in amazing pockets) to left arete (RB), then up this to small ledge and rap rings. Either rap back to ground (33m) or continue up to next ledge with small tree 3m above to 3rd belay on Avian Abattoir.

FA: Neil Monteith (led both pitches), Paul Thompson, 2013

22 Mixed 55m 2, 4
8 ** Gravity

Nice orange rock and cool pockets. The bolted middle line on the main ledge, 4m right of Stop the Bolts! pitch 2. Faint flake weakness up face (3 RBs), then a couple of hand sized cams to finish up fragile flake crack. DRB anchors on the right, shared with Cuckoo Dove Crack. Might be 24 if you're tall.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2013

25 Mixed 15m, 3
9 * Cuckoo Dove Crack

Splitter fingercrack on gorgeous orange rock on the right side of the main ledge, 2m right of Gravity. Overhangs at least a metre. Shared lower-off anchors with Gravity.

FA: Neil Monteith & Nick Le Baut, 2013

20 Trad 15m

1.6. Rat's Crag 11 routes in Crag

Sport and Unknown

Long/Lat: 150.859291, -34.360883


11 climbs , grades 22 - 14

Access Issues:

North east of the Picton/Mt Ousley Road over pass. On the right side, heading south, just past the north bound on-ramp (picton road ramp) = -34.364026, 150.859380 (perhaps)


Heading South - park at truck stop parking 1.1km past the Crag Heading North - park at truck stop parking, just before Clive Bissell Drive intersection

(2012-Oct : let me get back to you on approach options)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 All Dressed Up 22 Sport 4m
2 On a Lick & a Promise 19 Sport 4m
3 Young Lust 15 Sport
4 Gutmahoy -- Unknown
5 Cranking & Wanking 21 Sport 6m
6 Pulsating Pocket Pussy -- Unknown
7 Ants In Your Pants 22 Sport 5m
8 Pissed & Broke 19 Sport 5m
9 Suck My Waste 18 Sport 5m
10 Reefer Headed Woman 14 Sport 5m
11 Shut The Barn Door -- Unknown

1.7. Mt Keira 221 routes in Crag

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.855477, -34.402523

Unique Features And Strengths:

As at Nov. 2012 - over 50 re-bolted routes. With 210+ climbs. Many trad and mixed routes. Home of the moderate climb and popular with beginners and intermediates.


Four faces. Popular West Face with loads of easier/shorter routes, South Face is less often visited and more exposed and the North Face is even more so. East face is becoming very overgrown and had a 2nd big rock slide recently (Jan. 2012).. so be warned !

The West has some has many varied short climbs, with easy access. It is the most popular area.

The South has some good climbing, degenerating into total choss heading further around to the northern areas, where the cliff rises to 40m. Narrow access track above steep bush Hot in the summer, great in the winter.

There is a cafe (currently closed for reno. @ Nov.2012) in the Mt Keira car park.

Access Issues:

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.


Drive to the Mt Keira lookout. Via either Mt Ousley -> Picton Rd -> MtK Rd or up from Wollongong via the MtK rd. From the MtKeira car park the crags are only 5 minutes walk away.

Where To Stay:

Wollongong and environs.


"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced


Bill James in the mid-60's followed by the prolific Graeme Hill mid-70's and his side kick Chunder (Russell Chudleigh). Contributions from Jon Muir (from 1977) , Ian Anger(ferret) , Dave Thomas, Ant Prehn (from 1978) , Rod Young(from 1981) Original descriptions by Ant. Penh/Tucker/ViBeS/Rod Young/TJ

1.7.1. North Face 21 routes in Cliff

Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.856189, -34.400023


Small area, harder higher routes than the West Face area


From The Mt Keira car park walk back down the entrance road for exactly 5 minutes (350m) . On the right - just as the road starts to turn left sharply - there is a rock out-crop , scramble up the rock steps and then:

  • head immediately down the steep slippery gully to the 1st wall.


  • head right across the top of the climbs to get to the climbs beyond 'Wallyard arete'

G Hill, R Young, A Prehn, S Bullen, J Muir, B James, J Hoy

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Balls of Boogy Woogy

The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel

FA: Jon Muir, 1977

17 Trad 10m
2 * Pakistan

Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.

Well its super hard now, as the brackets are super rusty - DO NOT CLIMB !

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

26 Sport 12m
3 * Fascination

[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts ! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1981

23 Sport 13m, 7
4 Nordwand

CLOSED project [New - Sept 2012] Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge...

FA: 2012

20 Sport Project 15m, 8
5 Deb-ut De-view

[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]

From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route

FA: 2012

17 Sport 9m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Sand Pit Wall Entrance

[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]

The Opposing face of Nordwand.

Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.

FA: 2012

17 Sport 8m, 2
7 Sand Pit Wall One

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

19 Sport 5m, 2
8 Sand Pit Wall Two

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

18 Trad 5m
9 Sand Pit Wall Exit

[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.

12 Sport 5m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 *** Fizzgig

Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 2000

24 Sport 15m, 5
11 ** Cheap Wine

The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

23 Sport 20m, 4
12 ** Bog Cog

Start at the tree in the gully below Fizzgig top wall. Onto wall and traverse out left to clip 1st bolt of Cheap Wine, then straight up the middle of the wall between brackets past Cheap Wine and Fizzgig.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

25 Sport 12m
13 Grot Heap Groove

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16 Trad 19m
14 * Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

19 Trad 20m
15 * Wallyard Grave

The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall.

FA: Jon Muir, 2000

22 Sport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 *** Wallyard Arete

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB

FA: Jon Muir

21 Sport 20m, 6
17 Snakepit

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

20 Trad 6m
18 White Wings

Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.

FA: Bill James, J Hoy, 2000

12 Trad 19m
19 Fountain Of Youth

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

FA: Bill James, James Hoy, 2000

14 Trad 15m
20 Teno Not Streno

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

FA: James Hoy, Bill James, 2000

16 Trad 15m
21 Streno Not Teno

Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.

FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: James Hooy, Bill James, 2000

17 Trad 18m

1.7.2. West Face 90 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 150.853999, -34.402677


The West Face is probably the most frequently climbed area at Mt Keira. It has a maximum height of 15m with approx. 90climbs. All of the bracketed routes have been replaced with steel ring bolts.


At the MtKeira Lookout Area - head right when you enter the lookout area and park near the fire trial chain gate (south). Walk down this fire-trail, on the Dave Walsh Walking Track, past the 'Five Islands' lookout. Keep on the main track (as a few minor tracks head off across to the tops of the climbs) for ~300m until you head down past a large ant hill (on your left) then through a small gully of rocks (with a flat rocky outcrop to your left) . Follow the distinct track around to the right (heading towards boulders) and you'll see the main path and first of the smaller climbs. (on the right)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 JonnyMorgan

[2012 Mar. NEW] Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave

Start up the left side arete , all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

13 Sport 8m, 4
2 Ragged Range

Start in the small cave, lay-back and head up the right edge of the wall.. stay right until the top. The cave exit contains the crux.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15 Sport 8m, 4
3 Psicotico

[2012 Mar - NEW] Just around the corner on the right in the Nitro Wall approach Gully. Start just right of the little ground bush. Reach up high for the right hand jug and lay back. Get you feet up and find the 3 finger pocket & clip. Then up, moving left , searching out for those crimps and jugs.

FA: Ryan Godlewski, 2012

15 Sport 7m, 3
4 Volkswagon

These next 3 routes are accessible via a small gully, off right of the main path . Start marked 'V'. The chimney you can see walking up the short gully. To the left os OS. Very shitty.

8 Trad 5m
5 Outside Space

The crack/corner marked 'SO'. A jug fest. Pretty Iffy.

8 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Blossom

The wall right of 'SO' without using the crack to start. Follow right of the ringbolts to double ring belay. Stay off the jugs/crack to the left . If you didn't reach high up at the 2nd ring-bolt or lay-back on the crimp, then you've gone around the crux!

FA: Mark Woodward

17 Sport 10m, 4
7 Hangover

[2012 MAR - all new ring bolts.

Tough start then up the juggy steep wall on incut ironstone holds/flakes. Slight incline from the vertical in the mid-half of the climb. 3 rings to double ring belay or up to the top and walk off.

15 Sport 9m, 4
8 Halt FBI

A harder better version than the original. Start 2 meters left of Quadrille corner. Bouldery moves to start then straight up vague arete to ledge, continue up the easy ground to the top.

22 Trad 12m
9 Quadrille

Natural pro. Up the crack to the ledge, then traverse off right until you can get up to the top.

FA: Bill James

14 Trad 15m
10 Pams Pussy

Natural protection. Hand traverse the jamb crack (cams) out right (and dont step on the bloody tree!) When 2 meters past the arete clip the bolt and reach for the high jug then up the wall to the ledge. Clip bolt and finish direct over bulge onto desperate slab.

CAUTION !! Bees nesting in small cave on Pams Pussy route ! [Mar 2012]

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

16 Trad 14m
11 Serenity

The arete just right of the start of 'Pams Pussy'. Hand traverse out right to step on the large casuarina to clip the 1st ringbolt. Climb the arete past two more rings to the top. Double ringbolt belay.

FA: Rod + Sue Young, 2000

17 Sport 11m, 4
12 * roundup


FA: Thomas Griffith

18 Unknown 20m
13 *** Putain de Puddin

According to the old guide book this could be the hardest route on the West face. The middle of the roof protected by ringbolts, left of the line of rusty bolts placed by Bill James years ago and as an aid route. Follow the break right past the rings to gastone in roof.

Punch it out past ring to pockets on the lip. Crank to crimper around lip following flake. Finish at break or proceed through Jungle Of Death!

FA: Paul Westwood, Brian Rattenbury, 2000

25 Sport 10m
14 Puddin Direct

FA: Johan Szabo

26 Sport 9m
15 Pulsating Puss

Another one of those roof climbs that looks like it could fall on you! Start in the corner at the righthand side under the large roof (Right of Putain De Pudding).Up the Short corner past bolt to roof, lean out on jugs up over to clip bolt on left. Swing leftward over lip and on up left to follow pedestal (bolt) to top.

16 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Anna Variant

Start as for My Red Slug. Natural pro. Leftward up wall to top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

11 Trad 12m
17 My Red Slug

Up the easy wall (bolt) to ledge beneath roof. Reach out and clip ringbolt, grovel out roof and mantle on rounds past ringbolt to the top.

FA: Rod Young

20 Sport 12m, 3
18 * Corny Hesitation

[2011 MAR - LOs and 5 new ring bolts added] 'An absolute ripper of a chossy roof'. Very exposed - relatively easy for such a large roof. Start 2m left of 'Juggy Crack'. 13 meters up the wall to the big roof. Reach around left of the nose to clip to edge hidden ringbolt, then crank out over the roof on buckets. Lower offs on right side of roof top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

17 Sport 15m, 7
19 Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant

[Mar 2012 pre-roof Lower Offs and 4 ring bolts added]

As for CH, but stop directly below the roof and use the mid under roof lower offs.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, 2000

15 Sport 12m, 5
20 Juggy Crack

The corner crack marked JC. Up the crack...ahhh thats what number 11 hexes are

FA: Bill James & Co.

8 Trad 8m
21 Boiling Point

Natural protection. Start 2 meters right of Juggy Crack. Up the wall to the top.

FA: M Robinson,Ogle, Graeme Hill

8 Trad 12m
22 Stratum

In the corner marked 'S'. Natural protection. Up groove, around roof to the right, then up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, I Impeliji

12 Trad 12m
23 * Masters Of The Universe

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

FA: Jon Muir

23 Trad 12m
24 * Tear Along The Dotted Line

"A good traverse across a pocketed horizontal weakness". Up wall left of corner as for Book Him Danno Murder One to horizontals (bolt) and keep traversing left to the arete past 2nd bolt. Layback up arete, (bolt) to ledge. From here continue up juggy arete to top or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill,Chunder

18 Trad 14m
25 ** Book Him Danno Murder One

'A mind snapper wall climb' - Hill. Climb the wall just left of the corner (Bills Folly Chimney) to horizontals (bolt) and reach high for hidden hold. One move left and up past 2nd bolt to exit onto ledge. From here continue up easy wall above or lower off.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, 2000

21 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Bills Folly Chimney

Natural protection. The corner flake crack leading to a dark chimney.

FA: Bill James & Co., 2000

9 Trad 13m
27 * The Fixer

[March 2012 - ring bolt lower offs and 4 additional rb added to this route] The West Face test peice for up and comming bumblies. Start just right of 'Bills Folly Chimney'. The short crack to clip 1st ring, thin technical moves, then easy doddle section. Clip ring above roof then crank to glory (crux) onto top wall. 2 Ring bolt loweroffs , 2m above roof.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

21 Sport 13m, 7
28 Hills Hardmen

Natural and bolt protection. Take 2 brackets and 'freinds'. One hard move near the 1st bolt. The rest is around 17. Up the middle of the easy slab and reach left to clip 1st bolt. Place your feet and hands all on the same hold then crank for the next hold. Easy up to top bulge then bolt protects good top section. Toprope bolts over the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder, 2000

20 Trad 13m
29 ** Hills Hardon (Variant)

Start as for Hills Hardmen. Up the slab and continue up ramp to the right of the bolt to horizontal, traverse back left into line at tree. Straight up as for HH over top bulge to belay.

17 Trad 13m
30 Bills Folly

The right hand corner crack. Natural protection. Popular even though it has a wide crack. The corner, step left and over last wide crack to top. Toprope bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12 Trad 13m
31 Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets

[Mar 2012 - all new RB's and they have been repositioned] Start bridging up 'Bills Folly' crack to clip 1st bolt on 'Malignant Falcon' , then up and traverse across wall/ledge to arete. Up arete past bolt to top. Caution: large block midway up arete moves , but its ok, its in solid.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

17 Sport 12m, 4
32 Malignant Falcon

Starts 1m right of corner 'Bills Folly'. (Small 'friend' under the large flake to protect the 1st move or go up crack and reach across to clip 1st bolt). Pull onto the wall using the large flake. Straight up wall on small holds passing 2nd bolt to small ledge (medium cam or traverse to new arete bolt) Climb on right at arete (reach right over the edge of the arete to clip EOOTBWOKS bolt as you go to the top).

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19 Sport 12m, 4
33 Synthetic Orgasm

A good climb for tearing your fingernails off and radical cranking' - Hill. Start at initial. DO NOT USE TREE BEHIND YOU!. Bouldery start on thin sharp holds to launch (fixed bracket) and straight up past 2nd bracket onto arete. Final easy moves up EOOTBWOKS past bolt to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

19 Sport 11m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
34 * Goober Grease

Pull up to the undercling slot in the roof then core your way left 2m to the lip. Struggle to clip the 3rd bolt then crank over the lip and up to the 2 rings passing alot of moss as you go!

Start: Start to the left of 'One Blank Wall' under the roof.

25 Sport 10m, 3
35 Jacky

Natural protection. A good route, start at 'J'. Up shorte arete to crack in lip of roof that comes across from Goober Grease. Up the crack then follow some bulges to exit.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

14 Trad 13m
36 Save Our Souls

Starts as for Jacky, not very popular. Up the short arete to crack. Using side of crack climb climb up slightly right to corner in roof. Climb past old peg up to roof. Contort around roof and grovel up!

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

16 Trad 13m
37 * One Blank Wall LH Variant

climb left using the arete - 'mouth piece' shaped chunk of rock included

18 Sport 12m, 4
38 ** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves

A classic wall and roof climb. Start in middle of wall left of corner. Up middle of blank looking wall. At first bolt, don't use big undercling on left. Reach up high to flake under roof ( crux ), up over bulges past rings to double ring belay.

20 Sport 12m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Iria

Another old trad route. Natural protection. Up the corner to ledge (ususally covered in leaves, wet sand and other crud), short corner to toprope belay on ledge or escape up right to the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

12 Trad 10m
40 Space Trucken

[Dec. 2011 - all new steel ring bolts & lower offs]

Up the wall without deviation to the side (the middle of the wall between 'Iria' and 'Nursery') - a couple of fine moves . Pull onto wall using 3 finger pocket and clip the 1st ring, then a deadpoint to reach a nice flake. Move slightly left for toe hold and reach up for the edge, clipping 2nd ring. Up to ledge, clip bolt on very short block and reach up to the ring belay.

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill, 1981

17 Sport 10m, 4
41 Nursery

A trad route for beginners on their first climb. Start at the crack in the middle of the wall then pull 1m right and up the jugs. Step back left for the final crack, or go direct the whole way (a tad harder). Bolt belay at ledge or exit up to the right.

FA: Bill James & Co.

8 Trad 10m
42 Nurlegs

Why bother ... ??? (short, weird...)

6 Trad 10m
43 * Crawdad

[Dec 2012 - new bolt added before roof ] Fine climbing up an excellent wall. Up the arete and wall left of Short Legs and overhang passing 3 ring bolts to belay bolts at top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20 Sport 12m, 4
44 * Short Legs

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

FA: Bill James & Co.

16 Sport 12m, 4
45 Short Fingers

[Dec 2012 - replace carrots with steel ring bolts. Use 'Short Legs' for lower off] The arete left of 'Fingers'. Starting at initials, reach up and pull up overhanging start to bolt. Up the arete past another bolt to easy ground. Continue as for fingers to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

18 Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
46 Fingers

[Dec. 2011 - ring bolt lower offs added] Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Trickey start onto thin wall and clip. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to lower offs.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

18 Sport 12m, 4
47 Bangers & Flash

Natural and bolt protection. Run-out and slightly contrived but excellent. Small freind or nut to start. Onto thin wall and clip fixed bracket. Up the middle of (without pulling left onto the arete for a rest!). A #2 cam placement appears as it eases. Up the easy ground (bolt) to pull over final easy overhang to toprope/belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir, Graeme Hill

13 Trad 12m
48 * Zatidee

An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

FA: Bill James & Co.

13 Trad 12m
49 Cooky Crap Direct

(Boulder problem - Toprope) This boulder problem goes straight up the wall 21BP between Zatidee and Crust For Crust without using a hold in either. Setup the toprope from the bolts above approximately 2/3's of the way up the cliff. Access is near the top of Gum Tree Wall or at the top of the cliff. If the start is easy then you're cheating and using holds that aren't allowed!

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

21 Boulder 8m
50 * Crust For Crust

Natural protection. Good but too short. The finger jam flake and wall.

FA: Graeme Hill , Ogle

14 Trad 6m
51 Ashes To Dust

Worthless. The chimney

FA: Bill James & Co.

10 Trad 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
52 Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap

Boulder problem or toprope. Start 2m around left from Gum Tree Wall on the left side of the arete. Up the overhanging arete making sure you do not use any holds that are on the right hand face of the arete until you reach the horizontal break at the top.

17 Boulder 6m
53 Gum Tree Wall

A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

11 Sport 10m, 3
54 ** Hernia

Once a classic death route. Start 3m down left of Brigetta under the overhang. Battle up the juggy overhang (ringbolt), step up to overhang wall (ringbolt) and climb up to lip. Rightward on good holds to ramp. Up to double rings on your left.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill

20 Sport 10m, 3
55 Brigetta

[2012 Oct - LO & additional RB's] The middle of the wall between Hernia and Brigetta6 but starting down low, right of Hernia. Pull over past overhang ring onto slab and continue straight up wall to the top.

FA: 1975

15 Sport 16m, 6
56 Brigetta 6

[2012 Oct - LO's added]

Climb up leftward ramp past #1 cam pocket to easy wall. Straight up wall past bolts to arete. Straight up arete to LO bolts.

FA: Bill James & Co., 1975

15 Trad 14m
57 Brigetta 2

Start on slabby wall as for Brigetta6. Up to cam#1 pocket on left, step right and straight up wall (past fixed bracket) to horizontal break. Climb past horizontal using arete on left (don't grovel up the crack!). Up to LO's.

FA: Chunder, 1975

16 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 ** Getts Up and Goes

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform !

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

16 Sport 12m, 5
59 Brigetta 3

A totally contrived route. Up slab left of PEC without using chimney.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10 Trad 8m
60 Piss Easy Chimney

A piss easy chimney. It doesn't seem very popular! Up the chimney... Every man and his dog

10 Trad 7m
61 Nifty Neville

Would be a good wall climb if not for the big tree in the way. Sling the tree and climb the jugs on the left arete...or just climb the tree!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

10 Trad 6m
62 Piece of Piss Direct

[April 2012 - new steel ringbolts all the way] An excellent short route. Start beneath the eroded pocket , layback and get your feet up high and right. Kneebar into the pocket and get that righthand up to the jug. Clip the 1st RB and head left around the arete and up you go.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17 Sport 9m, 4
63 ** Upward Progress

"A line of mighty power making all who walk beneath it cringe in eternal brooding fear" - Hill

Ooookay, yeah, its not a bad problem. Up compact wall to horizontal break, 2 small cam placements in horizontal, then layback off right hand using the right as an undercling. Kick left foot up into the little pocket , crank over left hand, reach for the small hold with the right high above your head. Chalk up left hand, crank off right hand, bring up right foot and reach for buckets at the top!

FA: Graeme Hill, Chunder

17 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 Broad Side of the Barn

The off-width...

FA: Graeme Hill, Ogle

9 Trad 6m
65 Intrepid Variant

Boulder problem or toprope. A fingery short wall without using left edge of wall (side of offwidth). Up the middle of the wall for 4m and avoid last move.

FA: Chunder

14 Boulder 5m
66 Intrepid

The short curving crack... ewwww

FA: Ogle, Graeme Hill

10 Trad 5m
67 ** Arete by left hand side

Arete between Intrepid and Golden Years. Very good boulder problem.

V2 Boulder 5m
68 Golden Years

Marked with initials. The flake, a roof and to top.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas

15 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
69 TTO

Top rope problem - . Start 2m left of TT. Follow the holds out roof and grovel over lip.

22 Trad 7m
70 ** Turkeys Take Off

[Feb 2012 - added steel lower offs] "This is a gem of a roof climb". Start at the TT initials. Up overhung wall to clip ringbolt, up under roof, move right (ringbolt) until jugs over roof can be reached. Swing out left ... remembering to clip 3rd ring over lip as you go and mantle over top arete and up.

FA: Ant Prehn, Ferret, Graeme Hill

19 Sport 9m
71 Pig

[Feb 2012 - steel loweroffs added] The undercut arete 2m right of 'Turkeys Take Off'. Up to ringbolt, pull over onto arete, up easily reaching left up arete to clip ring on Turkeys Take Off. Continue straight up to top reaching left to clip bolt above roof on Turkeys Take Off. Then on to Lower offs

FA: Stapleton, Humphries

18 Sport 9m
72 * Toothless Turkey

The middle of the wall 5m right of Pig. Bulgy start, then shoot for mother bucket at 2nd ringbolt. Up to top.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ferret

18 Sport 9m
73 * Tyrannosaurus Turkey

A snappy little bit of ball tearing work. Start right of tree at undercut wall. Undercling start then up wall to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

17 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
74 * Extra Terrestrial Turkey

* An excellent problem on good rock. A good start makes the climb. Over roof (clip ringbolt), up wall (passing 2nd ringbolt) to top. Toprope rings

FA: Ferret, Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill

20 Sport 7m
75 Fade Out

Desperate! Climb the scooping wall right of Extra Terrestrial Turkey 2 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn

22 Mixed 5m, 2
76 * Dark Side Of The Turkey

"A brilliant climb. Devious and awkward. It turned me into a newt - but I got better again" - Ant Prehn. Up the wall at initials.

FA: Ant Prehn, Graeme Hill, Ferret

19 Trad 6m
77 Cosmic Turkey Flame Out

"A streno jug haul roof/arete/wall climb". Initialled. Start at Dark Side Of The Turkey and traverse right on finger jugs to the lip of the roof. Up the wall past carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn

20 Trad 7m
78 Atomic

Top rope problem

19 Trad 5m
79 * A Very Nice Corner

Good corner 2 metres left of Grim Death.

12 Trad 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
80 ** Grim Death

BOULDER PROBLEM. Follows the thin crack in the first section of the West Face. Follow the crack till it runs out then layback to glory! (don't pike right).

FA: Jon Muir

21 Boulder 5m
81 Dr Cameltoe

Dyno - grab jug rail at head height, smear feet and launch for hueco, top out. Maybe a bit harder for people under 6ft.

FA: Johan Szabo, 2006

V8 Boulder 4m
82 Warazara

The off-width right of Grim Death. The very 1st (or last) climb of the West Face (at the end closest to the South Face. ie. closest to the descent track).

12 Trad 5m
83 Angelic

The climb starts at the same place as Nursery, but you go straight up the crack. It is all naturally protected.

FA: Angela Young, 2013

14 Trad 10m Nitro Wall 7 routes in Area
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.853953, -34.401484

Description:© (Johan)

Home to the unrepeated 'Redline' (V11) - one of Steve Bullen's testpieces of the 90's. A freestanding boulder with some interesting top outs, it faces west and is in the shade 'til about lunchtime. Be warned, some holds have been 'enhanced'.

Detailed access: Follow directions to the west face. Follow the west face cliff trail, past route the very last route volkswagon , keeping going under a massive tree which is lying above the track. Keep going for another 15m and the Nitro Wall boulder will appear on your right.

Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill which have been climbed since the dawn of man. There are a number of select problems on the block which are believed to be new, however.

Approach:© (Johan)

Take 'Mt Keira' Rd all the way to the top and turn right into Queen 'Elizabeth' Drive. Follow this to the top, turn right after the cafe and park at the far end of the car park. Follow the fire trail down for about 50m 'til you get to a track on your right. Follow this faint track west until you get to the top of the cliff line (west face of Mt Keira). Go down the gully and when you get to the bottom of the cliff line, keeping going under a massive tree which is lying over the track. Keep going for another 15m and the 'Nitro Wall' boulder will appear on your right. Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Nitro Wall Leftside

FA: Steve Bullen

V5 Boulder 3m
2 ** Untitled Route

From big hueco/meg pocket, move left and up, top out.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

V5 Boulder
3 ** Double Blower

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

FA: Steve Bullen

V9 Boulder 4m
4 ** Redline

As scene on "comin at ya hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Unrepeated, with some of the strongest climbers/boulderers over the past 10 years being repelled. Sit start from the big Hueco, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete 'til you gain to micro crimpers, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

FA: Steve Bullen

V11 Boulder 5m
5 Sinn Fein

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

FA: Unknown

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Brighton Hotel

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

FA: Oliver Kerr, Brett Heino, 2012

V5 Boulder 5m
7 Caffeination Fixation

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepul (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

FA: Brett Heino, 2012

V3 Boulder 3m

1.7.3. South Face 65 routes in Cliff

Trad, Sport and Top Rope

Long/Lat: 150.854105, -34.404191


Has some good climbing on the short left hand sections of the south side of Mt Keira. Degenerates to total choss further around towards the North areas. All accessible via a narrow track above steep jungle.


Access as for the West Face but go left of the Termite Mound down the rock-stepped track (Dave Walsh track) and hook around on the non-descript tracks (past Prow Prowess). Go to the left after descending about 25m vert (you will know you are there as you get to a red faced wall (on the left) with the route names (G) etched in the rock and a ledge track (heading east) that takes you past all the routes.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Prow Prowess

Top rope from double rings: Start from the track in the corner (left of the arrow in the tree) for a harder start or walk up to the break for an easier accent.

NPWS are reviewing this route - may 2013

FA: Allison Hooper, 2012

Set 2013

16 to 18 Top rope 13m
2 * School of Rock - Graduate

Start from the track in the corner (right of the arrow in the tree). Links up with School of Rock - Senior through the crack in the face. Climbing off the 4th ring from Crack. Belay from 3rd.

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

18 Top rope 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 School of Rock - Senior

Scramble up the to the ledge and work around to ascend up the crack in the face.

Climb up from the 4th ring bolt from the crack and belay from the 3rd. (Don't climb up from the 3rd - there are weak jugs that will break off)

Set 2013

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

17 Top rope 9m
4 School of Rock - Junior

A top rope can be run from either of first two the eastern rings. Scramble to ascend the crack or the slab.

FA: Lucy Allen, 2013

10 Top rope 8m
5 School of Rock - Lead Traverser

Start on SOR - Junior (top rope). Then traverse around to top out on Prow Prowess anchors. (Make sure your rope is long enough for lowering)

FA: Chris Allen, 2013

13 Sport 25m, 5
6 Amundsen Heads South

The next 5 climbs (GB - AA) are located above HappyCow Cheese at the Upper South Face Playground (i.e. go left past the termite mound, stay high, do not go right down the gully. Walk south to the rock plateau that overlooks the Archery Range, Lake Illawarra and Mt Kembla)

[New July 2012]- Start is on the approach to HCC. Balancy start, pull up on roof(s) or squeeze right, bridge through the gap and then juggy slab in the last half. (finishes at Upper South Playground area , thus gives ascent access to the Upper South Face climbs)

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15 Sport 14m, 6
7 Gummy Bear

4m left of 'SlipSlabSlop'

2 to 3 pieces needed... Nice rock anchor (bollard) at the top

FA: BJ Adams, 2012

13 Trad 7m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Slip Slab Slop

[New 2012 July] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down the Lower offs , start on the ground and up the at times crimpy face.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

12 Sport 8m, 3
9 Atheists Arete

[2012 JUL - NEW] So, with no godly assistance , up the arete. Pray for the good pockets and smears. Use your souls (shoes) to get you higher to heaven. Crux is near the top ... Lower offs & RB's are around the right edge

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

17 Sport 8m, 3
10 Archer's Target

Crack 3m left of Archers Arc

14 Trad 8m
11 * Archer's Arc

[New July 2012 ] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route]

Rap down via SlipSlabSlop wall or climb up via Amundsen. Fine foot and handholds to reach 1st ledge, look for that right 2 finger pocket to enable the mantle. Up the incuts on the right side of the wall . The last move is a high step, balenced to the left foot. Don't forget to turn around and see/hear where the climb got its name.

FA: Terry Jackson, 2012

15 Sport 9m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 Ganglion

[July2012 - added ring bolt lower-offs] . The first of the main South Face climbs. On the red faced wall at the begineering of the South Face access track .

Top-rope Problem. The problem at the left hand side of the wall. Climb the curved crack. Pretty thin pro.

16 Top rope 5m, 1
13 ** Electric Goo

Toprope Problem - use ganglion Lower-Offs. A balancy start with thin finger holds. Start at the initials! If you knocked this one off then turn around and head to the Noth Face dude!

FA: Jon Muir

21 Mixed 6m, 1
14 ** Touch The Quartz Grain

Still on that damn toprope! Thin techichal face climbing. Start 2m to the right of Goo.

FA: Steve Bullen

25 Trad 8m
15 HappyCow Cheese

[2012 June - RB's all the way] Start on the ledge above Shadow/No.1 Crack Lower Offs. (Anchor the belayer to the hip ringbolts - just to be safe). Up the 1st slab, clipping around to the right. From the ledge reach right to the 2nd bolt. If struggling, climb up using holds around the left side of the arete and iffy right foot holds. Continue up to double ringbolts, don't forget to look right at that great southern illawarra view.

FA: 2012

23 Sport 9m, 4
16 * Shadow

[July 2012 - Lower Offs added] Guess what...Toproped. Get up that thin seam. No, you cant use the #1 Crack to start off!

FA: Steve Bullen

21 Mixed 8m, 1
17 No 1 Crack

Use Shadow Lower-offs. Not a bad crack. Natural pro. Not a bad climb to learn the finer art of cam placement. Another one of those bouldery starts then 3 layback moves to glory.

If you mantle you can gain access to the belayer ring bolts and use them to make a mixed multi-pitch, linking to HappyCow Cheese.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

14 Mixed 6m, 1
18 Speed Of Life

Toproped Another mongrel climb... Stay off the #1 Crack. Start 1m right of #1 Crack. A long reach up then up the centre.

FA: graeme hill,Chudleigh,jon muir

16 Trad 6m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 ** Turkey's Testicles

[2012 Oct - new Lower Offs + xtra rb] Start 2m right of Speed of Life, left of the arete. Bouldery start at the flake then continue up the arete , then pulling left onto the wall for the final moves.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22 Sport 6m, 3
20 Turkey's Testicles Right Side

[2012 Oct - Lower Offs + xtra rb]

Starts right, around the arete from Turkey's Testicles. Undercut start to ringbolt and continue up at arete. Make sure you stay on the right side of the arete.

FA: G Nelson, 1995

22 Sport 6m, 4
21 Dental Floss

Natural Pro. The off-width

FA: G Nelson

11 Trad 5m
22 Dental Floss Vigilante

Boulder prob. Lead it or rig a toprope. A major struggle if you're a shortarse Up to the jug, then climb the dihedral to the right of the offwidth.

FA: Steve Bullen, Ant Prehn, 2000

23 Trad 5m
23 Muirs Eliminate

Start 2m to the right of Dental Floss Vigilante. Up to the sus looking hold then out the roof and out left to the finish.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 2000

21 Trad 8m
24 * Chunderella

A technical start. Up the thin wall past 2 carrots to the right hand corner, follow the crack to the roof then left to finish.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

22 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
25 The Training Route

[2012 Oct - RB's all the way] A route up a steeply overhung short wall on completely manufactured incut holds ... that appeared in the late 80's and were further enhanced by persons unknown sometime after 2010. Careful on the 2nd clip, ground fall might be possible.

(Hint - there is a bomber incut hold 20cm left and in-line of the lower offs)

FA: 1988

25 Sport 8m, 5
26 Ape Index

The layback leading to a gut wrenching offwidth. Not recommended for pussies. Up the crack with poor pro to ledge. From the ledge climb the short wall behind the arete (2 carrots)

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle

17 Trad 14m
27 * The Brainsnapper Variant

Pull over the start (ringbolt) and up the thin flake (ringbolt) to a wide high step up flake, then up to the 3rd ringbolt. Climb till you hit the belay rings. Lower off OR mantle past to ledge and continue up the top wall of Ape Index.

21 Sport 14m
28 Brainsnapper Direct Finish

Is the original finish to the climb continuing straight up the thin flake. It finishes so close to Ape Index that you can cheat by chimneying.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, 2000

23 Trad 7m
29 Monosodium Glutamate

Very sandy, not a recommended lead. BAD PRO. The right side of the overhung arete to finish as for Brainsnapper Direct Variant.

FA: Graeme Hill, Jon Muir, 1990

21 X Trad 8m
30 * Radioactive Bananna

The crack. Natural pro. Start at the undercut hand crack. Climb till you hit the ledge, then take your pick of the two cracks, just climb to the top

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 * Intrinsic Factor

You need strength! Reach right to clip the 1st ringbolt, Jug/heel hook etc the overhung start and arete (ringbolt) then grovel up left OR go the direct finish (grade 24) on the left arete on sand covered slopers!

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 1990

20 Sport 8m, 3
32 Strong Screw

No pro. Pretty poor climb. Start to the left of the chimney. Jugs up the overhang left and up. Step back right and up the choss.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill

14 Trad 8m
33 Screw

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

The chimney. Natural pro. Up the chimney and step left. Up the twin cracks as for Radioactive Banana.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1990

14 Trad 14m
34 Dynamic Balance

[2012 Sept - Lower Offs added]

Start 1m right of the chimney. Up the flake to overhang and follow the lip of the overhang to ledge. Up final wall to top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill, 2000

16 Trad 14m
35 * Strong Arms

[2012 Sept - now all RBs + extended to top of 'Screw']

Start 2m right of the chimney. Haul over the overhang to start.. Up the middle of the wall to follow the worn ridge to ledge (Note: old chain on ledge). Then up arete to new LO's

You can climb down Archer's Arc to set top-rope for these climbs.

FA: Graeme Hill, Geoff Hill, 1980

FA: Hubert Lobl, 2012

19 Sport 14m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 * Dyno To Death

[2012 Nov - LO's and RB's all the way]

Start around the right of arete past Strong Arms. Pull up and climb till you hit the lower off's

FA: Graeme Hill, jon Muir, Ian Anger, 1985

23 Sport 9m, 4
37 Hobo Chang

[2012 Nov - LO's added] The corner crack 2m to the right of Dyno To Death. Natural pro. Use LOs or up to the bushy ledge, then up final easy 3m corner to the base of Archer's Arc

FA: Nelson Brothers, 1994

17 Mixed 14m, 1
38 Not Another Hill Product

A nice little arete. Start just to the right of Hobo Chang. Clip 1st bolt from tree, then start down at the ledge. Up arete passing 2nd bolt to ledge.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas, 2000

20 Mixed 8m, 3
39 Renaissance

Natural pro. Bridge up the corner crack. A ledge step left and up the wall to the top.

10 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
40 Daves Dilemma

The arete 1m to the right or Renaissance. Deviously (?) up the arete to ledge. Up easy wall past another carrot.

FA: Graeme Hill, Dave Thomas, 2000

15 Trad 14m
41 Cadabra Eyes

Start 2m to the right of Daves Dilema. Climb the left crack to the ledge then up the wall above to carrot. Then as for Daves Dilemma.

FA: Nelson Brothers

15 Trad 14m
42 High Stepping

As the name says. Start 1m right of Cadabra Eyes

11 Trad 7m
43 Weeping Wall

Start 3m right of High Stepping. Follow the creaking carrots up the crappy looking wall.

20 Trad 14m
44 Langsten Avenue

Start 1m right of Weeping Wall. Climb the arete at the groove and move left into Weeping Wall near the top after the roof. From the ledge move 3m right and up the dark wall past 3 carrots.

FA: Ant Prehn, P Pisanu

22 Trad 14m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
45 Kindergarten

Up the easy crack, from the bottom to 1st ledge. Tree belay. Traverse left to the crack left of the arete climb (down and going , 2nd pitch) .

11 Trad 20m
46 Kindergarten Variant Finish

the crack to the right. of Kindergarten

15 Trad 8m
47 * Combat Rock

The wall left of Kindergarten top crack. Access down a 'ramp' near the top. 3 'old' rusty carrots hang on the wall !

FA: Ant Prehn, Jon Muir

21 Trad 8m
48 Crumbed Keira

[New Sept. 2012] Up the long slab between Langsten Avenue and Kindergarten. Try and stay out of the RHS Kindergarten crack. Crux is on the orange wall. Ends at the 2nd pitch belay/lower off station of Down And Going.

FA: T Jackson/H Lobl, 2012

17 Sport 15m, 8
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
49 Down And Going

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs] [Epoxyed Abseil points at top of Route for 60m rope]

Mixed climbing. Starts on the left side of the slab, right of Kindergarten. Up the slab at edge (past old piton) to 1st ledge. Up slab wall to 2nd ledge and 2 belay bolts. 2nd pitch = Up the right face (3 bolts) of the arete to the top RB's

FA: Jon Muir,Graeme Hill,Ant Prehn, 1982

18 Mixed 20m 2, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
50 ** Mind Games

Start on the slab as for Down and Going. Pull onto slab and up right to 1st ringbolt, then straight up wall to the 2nd ringbolt and exit onto ledge. Right and up next wall past ringbolt to double ring belay. Climb the short flake and wall past 3 ringbolts to bolt belay.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Thomas, 2000

16 Sport 20m 2, 6
51 ** Travail

[Sept 2012 - ring bolt lower offs & 3 new bolts to limit the 'run outs'] Start as for Mind Games. High step onto slab ledge and traverse right towards the arete passing 2nd & 3rd ringbolts. Up the right arete to the ledge. Belay station at base of wall. Climb vertical wall to 2nd ledge ring belay.

FA: Bill James & Co, 1980

16 Sport 20m 2, 11
52 ** Toxic Shock

Starts on the wall right of the arete (Down And Going 2nd pitch). Up the wall trying to rip your nails off! Has 2 very old rusty carrots as pro !

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

23 Sport 7m, 3
53 * Mind Games Direct Finish

The middle of the wall between Toxic Shock and Mind Games. 2 ringbolts.

18 Mixed 7m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
54 Trembling

Bolts all the way make up for the orange slippery/sus rock.

  1. One Strenuous pull-up move off the ground then climb the middle of the wall between the arete and El Packo to ledge beneath the short wall.

  2. Up the short wall on the left as for Travail 2nd pitch.

FA: Sue Young, Rod Young, 2000

16 Sport 25m 2, 7
55 * El Packo

The thin crack. Marked EP. Natural pro. Jamb the crack and stem up the sides...mmm nice :?/ Up the crack in arete from ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle, 2000

15 Trad 25m
56 * Rastus

Take your trad gear. 2m to the right of El Packo in the big arsed crack. Face climb the crack then up the easy crack at the top.

FA: Frank Hodges, 2000

13 Trad 25m
57 Chotto Matte Direct

Starts 3m right of Rastus. Up on jugs past carrot. Continue straight up wall past 2nd carrot and up to the top.

FA: Bill James, 2000

11 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
58 Runaway

Not very good. Start at the crack a meter right of Chottomati Direct. Climb the chimney to the roof, over this then up the corner to ledge. Up the final corner.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

16 Trad 25m
59 Advise And Dissent

Start 1m right of Chottomati Direct. 1/ Up the crack around roof (crux) and cracks above to ledge. 2/ Up the corner.

FA: G Owens, B Price, 2000

17 Trad 25m
60 ** Mon Magoo

Varied climbing. Start down right of Advise and Dissent.. 1/ Thin technichal moves to start then up and right to under roof. Easily over roof onto steep wall and up to chain. Take 5 brackets.

FA: Rod Young, 2000

22 Sport 20m 2, 6
61 * Jaunt

CAUTION !! - in the mid section of the climb there is a massive ring bolted boulder unattached to the main cliff, resting on a friable base. Its stability is unknown - last major rock fall in that area = Feb. 2012. !!

Natural pro. Not popular but a nice climb. Multi pitch with excellent positions. Start at the J.

  1. 24m It might be an idea to get your belayer up on the small ledge before you traverse out on the utter crap at the start of this climb. A couple of highsteps will get you to a large horn. Sling this to avoid the 15 ft grounder! Very easy moves up slab near the nose on better rock. Up groove to ledge and left to large tree belay.

  2. 14m Follow crack or wall tending right to belay beneath the final roof.

  3. Crux 7m Up short corner to incut hand traverse left under roof. Contorted exit to belay at the top.

FA: Bill James & Co, 2000

15 Trad 45m 3
62 Flaunt

Start around right from the J and the jamb crack.

  1. 25m (17) Up the crack, through the roof on the left into the groove of Jaunt. Up a move or two and up the off width to a ledge.

  2. 20m (17) Easy climbing as for Jaunt, then out right to the to at the roof.1.

FA: Graeme Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17 Trad 45m 2
63 Prime Time

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

19 Trad 40m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
64 *** Future Legend

Originally lead in 3 pitches. Recommended to rap in 10m left of the main South Lookout (at the double rings at the small lookout). THE line of the cliff, splitting the roof almost under the south face lookout. Original access is a walk in from the South Face.

  1. 10m (18) Up the easy dubious (seeping and loose sand) rock to beneath the 5m ceiling crack.

  2. 20m (24) Saunter out the ceiling to an off width move around the lip to a hanging belay.

  3. 20m (21) The thinner crack above to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young (crux), 2000

24 Trad 50m 3
65 ** Sex Haunt

[2012 Oct - mid LO's & 2 new RBs] 10m to right of Flaunt. Follow the line of ringbolts to the top, 8 RB's to the under roof LO/1st Pitch. Over roof = pulling some nice heelhook moves as you go, then nice holds to the top. 5 Bolts beyond the roof. From top LO to floor is exactly 30m (30cm to spare) , so Top Roping would be possible

FA: John Koster, 1996

21 Sport 30m 2, 13

1.7.4. East Face 37 routes in Cliff

Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 150.857398, -34.403190


Difficult to access (especially with gear) , mostly very rusty carrots, route access paths are slippery/steep and leechy.. but a beautiful looking rocks face.

The NPWS Plan of Mge (2011) does not currently allow climbing in this area.


Steep and difficult access track - go around the edge of the southern most fenced (black aluminium) lookout on the Northern Lookout area. Then head down the narrow meandering track using several large rock steps tending to the right - soon coming to a beautiful Littoral rainforest

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dead Ahead

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Ant, Hill, 2000

24 Unknown 8m
2 Manic Depressive

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers, 2000

11 Unknown 20m
3 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall following carrots to the ledge. Rap off.

[2013 - next 3 climbs have very old rusty carrots]

FA: Hill, Prehn, Chudleigh, 2000

17 Unknown 12m
4 ** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) / MgTO3

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Climb the wall with carrots to the ledge. Rap off tree.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

18 Unknown 10m
5 * Frustrations

Start 2m left of 'MgTO3'. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top. Rap off tree.

FA: R. Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24 Unknown 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 *** Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the chains.

FA: Hill, Chunder, 2000

23 Sport 10m, 5
7 * Saviour Machine

Do not climb Anchor chain rusted through and shattered on recent ascent.

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to chain.

FA: Ant, Hill, Thomas, 2000

16 Sport 12m, 3
8 * Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 2000

25 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 Mystery Achievements

It looks beautiful from the ground.... The carrots are VERY rusty [2013]

FA: Muir, Thomas, Prehn, 2000

20 Unknown 15m
10 Five Bolts To Nowhere

The path beyond here is VERY overgrown

* Warning! Treat all climbs past here on the East Face as adventure climbs ( with the possible exception of Ringwraith(24) and Improving on Nature(19) that were added in 1994. ) *
The Rusty bolts are VERY rusty !!
20 Unknown 25m
11 Hughes Spews

FA: Hill Prehn, 2000

20 Trad 15m
12 Fools Rush In


17 Trad 15m
13 * The Crap Stops Here

FA: Hill, 2000

23 Trad 17m
14 Bills Bumhole

FA: Hill, Muir, Prehn, Thomas, 2000

15 Trad 25m
15 *** Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: R Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

24 Sport 12m
16 PRO 24 Unknown 12m
17 Hammer Head 18 Unknown 10m
18 ** Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 3 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Woodward, 2000

20 Sport 10m
19 Jay

Marked with J. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

11 Trad 25m
20 Mangy Donkey

FA: Nelson Bros, 2000

14 Trad 25m
21 Gourmet

FA: B. James, 2000

15 Trad 25m
22 Gallows Tree

FA: Chunder, 2000

20 Trad 25m
23 * Windy

FA: James, 2000

16 Trad 25m
24 ** Desperado

Might have been a trad route once but it has shiny rings now and it looks like they have been there for a while. Marked with D. You can rap in which makes it super convenient. It would be nice if there was another bolt so you could top out too. Its and interesting route, not a one move wonder! Almost as good as sex haunt. There is a desperate bit a few metres above the ground and the rest is challenging too. Don't forget to enjoy the view before you tackle the overhang!

FA: Prehn, 2000

20 Sport 30m, 6
25 Sacrifice 15 Trad 30m
26 Death's Head

FA: Muir, 2000

14 Trad 25m
27 Sacrilege

FA: James, 2000

13 Trad 25m
28 Grouples

Thin Face Crack

FA: Prehn, Hill, Thomas, 2000

18 Trad 25m
29 Fashion B


FA: Chudleight, Hill, 2000

18 Trad 25m
30 Gob Spavin

FA: Hill Muir, 2000

17 Trad 25m
31 Wind Galls

FA: Chudleigh, Hill, 2000

14 Unknown 25m
32 Chunder Crack

FA: Chudleigh, P.Muttlicker (?), 2000

14 Unknown 25m
33 Competition

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

11 Trad 30m
34 Satan Sorrow

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Hill Chunder, 2000

19 Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 * Hammer Horror

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Hill, Chudleigh, 2000

17 Trad 25m
36 * M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

20 Sport 15m
37 * JK

Cool layback at top

18 Sport 20m

1.7.5. Pox Crag 7 routes in Cliff

Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.857760, -34.402412


In 1994 - "Good in the morning sun, and worhtwhile for bouldering and top-roping, and not much else. ",. In 2012 status = unknown.

From the lookout it doesn't look like much, but there are actually cliff down there hidden in the trees


Below the northern lookout platforms, just right of the shop( as you stand in the car park and look north)

Jump the fence at the lookout and take the obvious path into the trees, descend down the spur for about 3-4min until you arrive at the base of the cliffs

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Pox On A Hot Thin Roof

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill, Prehn

20 Unknown 14m
2 Out Of The Blue Into The Pox

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

23 Unknown 12m
3 Golden Pox

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Chudleigh, Graeme Hill

22 Unknown 10m
4 Black Pox

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carots.

FA: Graeme Hill

22 Unknown 10m
5 * Death

A classic crack.

FA: Hill, T Ogle

18 Trad 12m
6 Galaxians

Start 4m to the right of Death. Up the arete to start off then follow the groove in the wall above.

FA: Ant Prehn, Burton

20 Trad 10m
7 The Great Gastric

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

FA: Graeme Hill, T Ogle

18 Unknown 8m

1.7.6. Bouldering 1 route in Sector

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Jungle Cat

FA: @bjh202, 2015

V6 to V7 Boulder

1.8. Lee's Road 6 routes in Crag

All Unknown
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Threadbare 21 Unknown 12m
2 * Flying Pythons 24 Unknown 40m
3 Fairbairn's 20 Unknown 20m
4 ** Grasshopper Memories 22 Unknown 35m
5 Damsel In Distress 17 Unknown 55m
6 Gorilla Gorilla 17 Unknown 20m

1.9. Hangdog Climbing Gym 39 routes in Gym

Sport and Boulder

Long/Lat: 150.887040, -34.437029


If you climb at Hangdog Climbing Gym you can use the generic routes below to keep your training logbook up to date.


130 Auburn Street Wollongong NSW

1.9.1. Climbing routes 23 routes in Area

All Sport
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grade 6 route 6 Sport 6m
2 Grade 7 route 7 Sport 6m
3 Grade 8 route 8 Sport 6m
4 Grade 9 route 9 Sport 6m
5 Grade 10 route 10 Sport 6m
6 Grade 11 route 11 Sport 6m
7 Grade 12 route 12 Sport 6m
8 Grade 13 route 13 Sport 6m
9 Grade 14 route 14 Sport 6m
10 Grade 15 route 15 Sport 6m
11 Grade 16 route 16 Sport 6m
12 Grade 17 route 17 Sport 6m
13 Grade 18 route 18 Sport 6m
14 Grade 19 route 19 Sport 6m
15 Grade 20 route 20 Sport 6m
16 Grade 21 route 21 Sport 6m
17 Grade 22 route 22 Sport 6m
18 Grade 23 route 23 Sport 6m
19 Grade 24 route 24 Sport 6m
20 Grade 25 route 25 Sport 6m
21 Grade 26 route 26 Sport 6m
22 Grade 27 route 27 Sport 6m
23 Grade 28 route 28 Sport 6m

1.9.2. Bouldering problems 16 routes in Area

All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Grade VB- problem VB- Boulder 3m
2 Grade VB problem VB Boulder 3m
3 Grade VB+ problem VB+ Boulder 3m
4 Grade V0- problem V0- Boulder 3m
5 Grade V0 problem V0 Boulder 3m
6 Grade V0+ problem V0+ Boulder 3m
7 Grade V1 problem V1 Boulder 3m
8 Grade V2 problem V2 Boulder 3m
9 Grade V3 problem V3 Boulder 3m
10 Grade V4 problem V4 Boulder 3m
11 Grade V5 problem V5 Boulder 3m
12 Grade V6 problem V6 Boulder 3m
13 Grade V7 problem V7 Boulder 3m
14 Grade V8 problem V8 Boulder 3m
15 Grade V9 problem V9 Boulder 3m
16 Grade V10 problem V10 Boulder 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB- Grade VB- problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
6 Nurlegs Trad 10m 1.7.2. West Face
Grade 6 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
7 Grade 7 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
VB Grade VB problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
8 Boiling Point Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Juggy Crack Trad 8m 1.7.2. West Face
Nursery Trad 10m 1.7.2. West Face
Outside Space Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Volkswagon Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Grade 8 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
9 Bills Folly Chimney Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
Broad Side of the Barn Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Grade 9 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
10 Shoulders Trad 5m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Ashes To Dust Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Brigetta 3 Trad 8m 1.7.2. West Face
Intrepid Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Nifty Neville Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Piss Easy Chimney Trad 7m 1.7.2. West Face
Renaissance Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
School of Rock - Junior Top rope 8m 1.7.3. South Face
Grade 10 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
11 Anna Variant Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Gum Tree Wall Sport 10m, 3 1.7.2. West Face
Chotto Matte Direct Trad 25m 1.7.3. South Face
Dental Floss Trad 5m 1.7.3. South Face
High Stepping Trad 7m 1.7.3. South Face
Kindergarten Trad 20m 1.7.3. South Face
Competition Trad 30m 1.7.4. East Face
Jay Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Manic Depressive Unknown 20m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 11 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
VB+ Grade VB+ problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
12 Sand Pit Wall Exit Sport 5m, 2 1.7.1. North Face
White Wings Trad 19m 1.7.1. North Face
* A Very Nice Corner Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Bills Folly Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
Iria Trad 10m 1.7.2. West Face
Stratum Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Warazara Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Slip Slab Slop Sport 8m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
Grade 12 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
13 Bangers & Flash Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
JonnyMorgan Sport 8m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
* Zatidee Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Gummy Bear Trad 7m 1.7.3. South Face
* Rastus Trad 25m 1.7.3. South Face
School of Rock - Lead Traverser Sport 25m, 5 1.7.3. South Face
Sacrilege Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 13 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V0- Grade V0- problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
14 Dances With Wolves Mixed 8m, 1 Hargraves
Interdependence Trad 9m Hargraves
Bliss Trad 8m Lookout
Bugs Trad 5m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Miner Work Trad 10m 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
Reefer Headed Woman Sport 5m 1.6. Rat's Crag
Fountain Of Youth Trad 15m 1.7.1. North Face
Angelic Trad 10m 1.7.2. West Face
* Crust For Crust Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Intrepid Variant Boulder 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Jacky Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
Quadrille Trad 15m 1.7.2. West Face
Archer's Target Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
No 1 Crack Mixed 6m, 1 1.7.3. South Face
Screw Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Strong Screw Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
Chunder Crack Unknown 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Death's Head Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Mangy Donkey Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Wind Galls Unknown 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 14 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
15 Life's Like That Trad 12m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Syko Trad 15m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Young Lust Sport 1.6. Rat's Crag
Brigetta Sport 16m, 6 1.7.2. West Face
Brigetta 6 Trad 14m 1.7.2. West Face
Corny Hesitation Pikers Variant Sport 12m, 5 1.7.2. West Face
Golden Years Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Hangover Sport 9m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Psicotico Sport 7m, 3 1.7.2. West Face
Ragged Range Sport 8m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Amundsen Heads South Sport 14m, 6 1.7.3. South Face
* Archer's Arc Sport 9m, 4 1.7.3. South Face
Cadabra Eyes Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Daves Dilemma Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
* El Packo Trad 25m 1.7.3. South Face
* Jaunt Trad 45m 3 1.7.3. South Face
Kindergarten Variant Finish Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
Bills Bumhole Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Gourmet Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Sacrifice Trad 30m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 15 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V0 Grade V0 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
16 Carpeted Green Trad 5m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Deb Stoops to Conquer Top rope 11m 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
Grot Heap Groove Trad 19m 1.7.1. North Face
Teno Not Streno Trad 15m 1.7.1. North Face
Brigetta 2 Trad 14m 1.7.2. West Face
** Getts Up and Goes Sport 12m, 5 1.7.2. West Face
Pams Pussy Trad 14m 1.7.2. West Face
Pulsating Puss Trad 15m 1.7.2. West Face
Save Our Souls Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
* Short Legs Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Dynamic Balance Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Ganglion Top rope 5m, 1 1.7.3. South Face
** Mind Games Sport 20m 2, 6 1.7.3. South Face
* Radioactive Bananna Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Runaway Trad 25m 1.7.3. South Face
Speed Of Life Trad 6m 1.7.3. South Face
** Travail Sport 20m 2, 11 1.7.3. South Face
Trembling Sport 25m 2, 7 1.7.3. South Face
* Saviour Machine Sport 12m, 3 1.7.4. East Face
* Windy Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 16 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
17 Cosmic Punk Trad 8m Hargraves
Don't Guild the Orchard Top rope 10m Hargraves
** Sunday the 13th Trad 13m Lookout
Unforgiven Trad 17m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Focus Puller Trad 8m 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
Deb-ut De-view Sport 9m, 2 1.7.1. North Face
Great Balls of Boogy Woogy Trad 10m 1.7.1. North Face
Sand Pit Wall Entrance Sport 8m, 2 1.7.1. North Face
Streno Not Teno Trad 18m 1.7.1. North Face
Blossom Sport 10m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Cacaphonic Cockroach Crap Boulder 6m 1.7.2. West Face
* Corny Hesitation Sport 15m, 7 1.7.2. West Face
Escape Out of The Bedroom Window On Knotted Sheets Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
** Hills Hardon (Variant) Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
Piece of Piss Direct Sport 9m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Serenity Sport 11m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Space Trucken Sport 10m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
* Tyrannosaurus Turkey Trad 8m 1.7.2. West Face
** Upward Progress Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Advise And Dissent Trad 25m 1.7.3. South Face
Ape Index Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Atheists Arete Sport 8m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
Crumbed Keira Sport 15m, 8 1.7.3. South Face
Flaunt Trad 45m 2 1.7.3. South Face
Hobo Chang Mixed 14m, 1 1.7.3. South Face
School of Rock - Senior Top rope 9m 1.7.3. South Face
Fools Rush In Trad 15m 1.7.4. East Face
Gob Spavin Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
* Hammer Horror Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Up Against The Wall Unknown 12m 1.7.4. East Face
Damsel In Distress Unknown 55m 1.8. Lee's Road
Gorilla Gorilla Unknown 20m 1.8. Lee's Road
Grade 17 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
16 to 18 Prow Prowess Top rope 13m 1.7.3. South Face
V0+ Grade V0+ problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
18 * After the Storm Sport 10m, 3 Hargraves
At Peace Top rope 10m Hargraves
Kisses the Rock Mixed 9m, 2 Hargraves
* Little Flower Sport 9m, 3 Hargraves
All Hands on Deck Trad 10m Lookout
* North Crack Trad 13m Lookout
* Chain-saw Sport 19m, 5 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Princess Lauren of Stonehaven Sport 20m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Rocks Don't Floss Top rope 21m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Send Down the Clowns Mixed 21m, 4 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Suck My Waste Sport 5m 1.6. Rat's Crag
Sand Pit Wall Two Trad 5m 1.7.1. North Face
Fingers Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
* One Blank Wall LH Variant Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Pig Sport 9m 1.7.2. West Face
Short Fingers Sport 15m, 5 1.7.2. West Face
* Tear Along The Dotted Line Trad 14m 1.7.2. West Face
* Toothless Turkey Sport 9m 1.7.2. West Face
* roundup Unknown 20m 1.7.2. West Face
Down And Going Mixed 20m 2, 5 1.7.3. South Face
* Mind Games Direct Finish Mixed 7m, 2 1.7.3. South Face
* School of Rock - Graduate Top rope 12m 1.7.3. South Face
Fashion B Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Grouples Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Hammer Head Unknown 10m 1.7.4. East Face
* JK Sport 20m 1.7.4. East Face
** Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3) Unknown 10m 1.7.4. East Face
* Death Trad 12m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
The Great Gastric Unknown 8m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
Grade 18 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
19 (Unnamed 3) Top rope 10m Hargraves
** Blow Hole Trad 11m Hargraves
** Jugs Macdougall Sport 10m Hargraves
Rose By Annie Other Name Sport 9m, 3 Hargraves
The Dance Goes On Sport 10m, 4 Hargraves
* Mid-life Crisis Sport 7m, 3 Lookout
The Heart is Pretty Starred Sport 13m, 4 Lookout
Up Periscope Top rope 10m Lookout
On a Lick & a Promise Sport 4m 1.6. Rat's Crag
Pissed & Broke Sport 5m 1.6. Rat's Crag
* Grot Heap Grave Trad 20m 1.7.1. North Face
Sand Pit Wall One Sport 5m, 2 1.7.1. North Face
Atomic Trad 5m 1.7.2. West Face
* Dark Side Of The Turkey Trad 6m 1.7.2. West Face
Malignant Falcon Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
Synthetic Orgasm Sport 11m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
** Turkeys Take Off Sport 9m 1.7.2. West Face
Prime Time Trad 40m 1.7.3. South Face
* Strong Arms Sport 14m, 8 1.7.3. South Face
Satan Sorrow Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 19 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
19 M0 Fade to Grey Trad 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
V1 Grade V1 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
20 (Unnamed 2) Top rope 10m Hargraves
* Back to School Sport 10m, 3 Hargraves
Cane Toad Sport 11m, 4 Hargraves
* Crakarett Sport 10m, 3 Hargraves
** Handful Sport 18m, 5 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* New Sport For Old FIsherman Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
* Captain Cheese Mixed 33m 2, 2 1.4.1. Ships Prow
*** Tree Tornado Sport 35m 2, 12 1.4.1. Ships Prow
* Cuckoo Dove Crack Trad 15m 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
Nordwand Sport Project 15m, 8 1.7.1. North Face
Snakepit Trad 6m 1.7.1. North Face
Cosmic Turkey Flame Out Trad 7m 1.7.2. West Face
* Crawdad Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
* Extra Terrestrial Turkey Sport 7m 1.7.2. West Face
** Hernia Sport 10m, 3 1.7.2. West Face
Hills Hardmen Trad 13m 1.7.2. West Face
My Red Slug Sport 12m, 3 1.7.2. West Face
** One Blank Wall and 3 Bloody Rooves Sport 12m, 4 1.7.2. West Face
* Intrinsic Factor Sport 8m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
Not Another Hill Product Mixed 8m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
Weeping Wall Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
** Desperado Sport 30m, 6 1.7.4. East Face
Five Bolts To Nowhere Unknown 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Gallows Tree Trad 25m 1.7.4. East Face
Hughes Spews Trad 15m 1.7.4. East Face
** Improving On Nature Sport 10m 1.7.4. East Face
* M Sport 15m 1.7.4. East Face
Mystery Achievements Unknown 15m 1.7.4. East Face
Galaxians Trad 10m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
Pox On A Hot Thin Roof Unknown 14m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
Fairbairn's Unknown 20m 1.8. Lee's Road
Grade 20 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V2 ** Arete by left hand side Boulder 5m 1.7.2. West Face
Sinn Fein Boulder 3m Nitro Wall
Grade V2 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
21 (Unnamed 1) Top rope 10m Hargraves
Jugs Naiden Sport 10m Hargraves
* i-Nanderthol Sport 10m, 4 Hargraves
One Step in the Clouds Top rope 23m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Busted by the Fuzz Sport 25m, 9 1.4.1. Ships Prow
** Daddy Crack Trad 25m 1.4.1. Ships Prow
* Car Crash Mixed 25m, 2 1.4.2. Powerline Lookout
Bolts are Back! Mixed 15m, 5 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
* Shattered Wing Trad 14m 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
Cranking & Wanking Sport 6m 1.6. Rat's Crag
*** Wallyard Arete Sport 20m, 6 1.7.1. North Face
** Book Him Danno Murder One Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Cooky Crap Direct Boulder 8m 1.7.2. West Face
** Grim Death Boulder 5m 1.7.2. West Face
* The Fixer Sport 13m, 7 1.7.2. West Face
* Combat Rock Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
** Electric Goo Mixed 6m, 1 1.7.3. South Face
Muirs Eliminate Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
** Sex Haunt Sport 30m 2, 13 1.7.3. South Face
* Shadow Mixed 8m, 1 1.7.3. South Face
* The Brainsnapper Variant Sport 14m 1.7.3. South Face
Threadbare Unknown 12m 1.8. Lee's Road
Grade 21 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
21 X Monosodium Glutamate Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
22 * Neville Naiden Sport 10m, 4 Hargraves
** Eat My Brains Sport 13m, 5 Lookout
For the Birds Top rope 20m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
* Shaun's Route Sport 14m, 5 1.1.2. Stonehaven
** Bow Wave Sport 18m, 7 1.4.1. Ships Prow
** Sleep is for the Weak Sport 25m, 9 1.4.1. Ships Prow
Flying Car Arete Sport 25m 1.4.2. Powerline Lookout
* Kaboom Sport 17m, 7 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
*** Stop the Bolts! Mixed 88m 5, 2 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
** Terror Talon Traverse Mixed 55m 2, 4 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
All Dressed Up Sport 4m 1.6. Rat's Crag
Ants In Your Pants Sport 5m 1.6. Rat's Crag
* Wallyard Grave Sport 20m 1.7.1. North Face
Fade Out Mixed 5m, 2 1.7.2. West Face
Halt FBI Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
TTO Trad 7m 1.7.2. West Face
* Chunderella Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
Langsten Avenue Trad 14m 1.7.3. South Face
** Mon Magoo Sport 20m 2, 6 1.7.3. South Face
** Turkey's Testicles Sport 6m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
Turkey's Testicles Right Side Sport 6m, 4 1.7.3. South Face
Black Pox Unknown 10m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
Golden Pox Unknown 10m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
** Grasshopper Memories Unknown 35m 1.8. Lee's Road
Grade 22 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V3 Caffeination Fixation Boulder 3m Nitro Wall
Grade V3 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
23 * In Lieu of the Gym Sport 12m, 4 Hargraves
* Jugs Sport 12m, 3 Hargraves
STT Unknown 14m 2 Lookout
* Blood Sport 15m 5 1.1.2. Stonehaven
** Dreg Mix Sport 8m, 3 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
*** Titanical Sport 42m 3 1.4.1. Ships Prow
** Cheap Wine Sport 20m, 4 1.7.1. North Face
* Fascination Sport 13m, 7 1.7.1. North Face
* Masters Of The Universe Trad 12m 1.7.2. West Face
Brainsnapper Direct Finish Trad 7m 1.7.3. South Face
Dental Floss Vigilante Trad 5m 1.7.3. South Face
* Dyno To Death Sport 9m, 4 1.7.3. South Face
HappyCow Cheese Sport 9m, 4 1.7.3. South Face
** Toxic Shock Sport 7m, 3 1.7.3. South Face
*** Canned Horsemeat Sport 10m, 5 1.7.4. East Face
* The Crap Stops Here Trad 17m 1.7.4. East Face
Out Of The Blue Into The Pox Unknown 12m 1.7.5. Pox Crag
Grade 23 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V4 Grade V4 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
24 * Sperm Donor Sport 9m, 4 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
** Humidify Sport 15m, 5 1.4.1. Ships Prow
** Trespass Sport 25m, 11 1.4.2. Powerline Lookout
** Neanderthal Trad 66m 4 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
*** Fizzgig Sport 15m, 5 1.7.1. North Face
*** Future Legend Trad 50m 3 1.7.3. South Face
Dead Ahead Unknown 8m 1.7.4. East Face
* Frustrations Unknown 10m 1.7.4. East Face
PRO Unknown 12m 1.7.4. East Face
*** Ringwraith Sport 12m 1.7.4. East Face
* Flying Pythons Unknown 40m 1.8. Lee's Road
Grade 24 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
25 ** Avian Abattoir Trad 84m 4 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
** Gravity Mixed 15m, 3 1.5.1. Scarface Buttress
** Bog Cog Sport 12m 1.7.1. North Face
* Goober Grease Sport 10m, 3 1.7.2. West Face
*** Putain de Puddin Sport 10m 1.7.2. West Face
The Training Route Sport 8m, 5 1.7.3. South Face
** Touch The Quartz Grain Trad 8m 1.7.3. South Face
* Warhol Trad 12m 1.7.4. East Face
Grade 25 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V5 *** Brighton Hotel Boulder 5m Nitro Wall
Nitro Wall Leftside Boulder 3m Nitro Wall
** Untitled Route Boulder Nitro Wall
Grade V5 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
26 * Pakistan Sport 12m 1.7.1. North Face
Puddin Direct Sport 9m 1.7.2. West Face
Grade 26 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V6 Grade V6 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
27 Grade 27 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V6 to V7 Jungle Cat Boulder 1.7.6. Bouldering
V7 Grade V7 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
28 Grade 28 route Sport 6m 1.9.1. Climbing routes
V8 Dr Cameltoe Boulder 4m 1.7.2. West Face
Grade V8 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
V9 ** Double Blower Boulder 4m Nitro Wall
Grade V9 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
V10 Grade V10 problem Boulder 3m 1.9.2. Bouldering problems
V11 ** Redline Boulder 5m Nitro Wall
? Top-rope Route 1 Top rope Hargraves
Top-rope Route 2 Top rope Hargraves
Princess Lauren - DS (Project) Unknown 18m 1.1.2. Stonehaven
Chip Off the Old Block Top rope 10m 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
Old Ant Harris Project Top rope 10m 1.3. Wodi Wodi Crag
-- Gutmahoy Unknown 1.6. Rat's Crag
Pulsating Pocket Pussy Unknown 1.6. Rat's Crag
Shut The Barn Door Unknown 1.6. Rat's Crag