Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Great Balls of Boogy Woogy
The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel
FA: Jon Muir, 1977
17
Trad 10m
2
Pakistan
Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey
Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.
Well its super hard now, as the brackets are super rusty - DO NOT CLIMB !
FA: Steve Bullen, 2000
26
Sport 12m
3
Fascination
[Apr-2012 new lower off]
Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts ! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan . Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.
FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1981
23
Sport 13m
, 7
4
Nordwand
CLOSED project
[New - Sept 2012]
Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge...
FA: , 2012
20
Sport Project 15m
, 8
Route Grade Style Popularity
5
Deb-ut De-view
[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]
From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.
From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route
FA: , 2012
17
Sport 9m
, 2
6
Sand Pit Wall Entrance
[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]
The Opposing face of Nordwand .
Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.
From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.
FA: , 2012
17
Sport 8m
, 2
Route Grade Style Popularity
7
Sand Pit Wall One
On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro . = 2 rusty bolts
FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982
19
Sport 5m
, 2
8
Sand Pit Wall Two
The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One . Up the wall.
Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route
FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982
18
Trad 5m
9
Sand Pit Wall Exit
[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.
12
Sport 5m
, 2
Route Grade Style Popularity
10
Fizzgig
Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination , at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.
FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 2000
24
Sport 15m
, 5
11
Cheap Wine
The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig . Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.
FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 2000
23
Sport 20m
, 4
12
Bog Cog
Start at the tree in the gully below Fizzgig top wall. Onto wall and traverse out left to clip 1st bolt of Cheap Wine , then straight up the middle of the wall between brackets past Cheap Wine and Fizzgig .
FA: Steve Bullen, 2000
25
Sport 12m
Route Grade Style Popularity
13
Grot Heap Groove
The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig . Up the corner to the top.
FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000
16
Trad 19m
14
Grot Heap Grave
Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG . (GH Groove is now 'off'.)
19
Trad 20m
15
Wallyard Grave
The wall left of Grot Heap Groove . Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall.
FA: Jon Muir, 2000
22
Sport 20m
16
Wallyard Arete
[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]
An excellent direct route with great views :-) The arete left of Wallyard Grave . Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB
FA: Jon Muir,
21
Sport 20m
, 6
17
Snakepit
From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.
From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY '
FA: Graeme Hill, 2000
20
Trad 6m
18
White Wings
Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.
FA: Bill James, J Hoy, 2000
12
Trad 19m
19
Fountain Of Youth
A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.
FA: Bill James, James Hoy, 2000
14
Trad 15m
20
Teno Not Streno
Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.
FA: James Hoy, Bill James, 2000
16
Trad 15m
21
Streno Not Teno
Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.
FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000
FA: James Hooy, Bill James, 2000
17
Trad 18m