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Table of contents

1. North Face 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport and Trad

Long/Lat: 150.856189, -34.400023

Description:

Small area, harder higher routes than the West Face area

Access Issues: inherited from Mt Keira

Mt Keira Summit is 1.2 hr drive south of Sydney CBD. The summit overlooks the city of Wollongong (9th largest city in Australia) and has superb views up the southern coastline.

Approach:

From The Mt Keira car park walk back down the entrance road for exactly 5 minutes (350m) . On the right - just as the road starts to turn left sharply - there is a rock out-crop , scramble up the rock steps and then:

  • head immediately down the steep slippery gully to the 1st wall.

or

  • head right across the top of the climbs to get to the climbs beyond 'Wallyard arete'
Ethic: inherited from Mt Keira

"The Big K" is worthwhile for a day trip from Sydney and a very good local cliff for those that live around the Illawarra - R.Young

.. and if all else fails, remember ... The Law of Gravity is STRICTLY Enforced

History:

G Hill, R Young, A Prehn, S Bullen, J Muir, B James, J Hoy

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Balls of Boogy Woogy

The 1st crack in descent gullys right hand side wall. Natural protection. Up the crack with an interesting finish. - grovel , grovel

FA: Jon Muir, 1977

17Trad 10m
2 * Pakistan

Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.

Well its super hard now, as the brackets are super rusty - DO NOT CLIMB !

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

26Sport 12m
3 * Fascination

[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts ! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1981

23Sport 13m, 7
4 Nordwand

CLOSED project [New - Sept 2012] Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge...

FA: 2012

20Sport Project 15m, 8
5 Deb-ut De-view

[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]

From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route

FA: 2012

17Sport 9m, 2
6 Sand Pit Wall Entrance

[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]

The Opposing face of Nordwand.

Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.

FA: 2012

17Sport 8m, 2
7 Sand Pit Wall One

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

19Sport 5m, 2
8 Sand Pit Wall Two

The flake just to the left of Sand Pit Wall One. Up the wall.

Sand Pit Wall Exit Lower Offs can be used from this route

FA: Graeme Hill, Steve Bullen, 1982

18Trad 5m
9 Sand Pit Wall Exit

[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.

12Sport 5m, 2
10 *** Fizzgig

Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 2000

24Sport 15m, 5
11 ** Cheap Wine

The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 2000

23Sport 20m, 4
12 ** Bog Cog

Start at the tree in the gully below Fizzgig top wall. Onto wall and traverse out left to clip 1st bolt of Cheap Wine, then straight up the middle of the wall between brackets past Cheap Wine and Fizzgig.

FA: Steve Bullen, 2000

25Sport 12m
13 Grot Heap Groove

The corner about 5 meters past Fizzgig. Up the corner to the top.

FA: Jon Muir, Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn, 2000

16Trad 19m
14 * Grot Heap Grave

Up GH Groove for 8 metres. Step L on horizontal break to gain finger crack of WG. (GH Groove is now 'off'.)

19Trad 20m
15 * Wallyard Grave

The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall.

FA: Jon Muir, 2000

22Sport 20m
16 *** Wallyard Arete

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views :-) The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB

FA: Jon Muir

21Sport 20m, 6
17 Snakepit

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'

FA: Graeme Hill, 2000

20Trad 6m
18 White Wings

Start at FOY marked chimney. Up and onto ledge on right side of arete. Up the corner past ledges to the top.

FA: Bill James, J Hoy, 2000

12Trad 19m
19 Fountain Of Youth

A chimney with an exciting finish. Initialled.

FA: Bill James, James Hoy, 2000

14Trad 15m
20 Teno Not Streno

Start in the crack left of Fountain of Youth. Up the line.

FA: James Hoy, Bill James, 2000

16Trad 15m
21 Streno Not Teno

Up Teno Not Streno and traverse left across wall past bolt and 2 brackets to another crack. Up wide crack to top.

FFA: Brian Rattenbury, 2000

FA: James Hooy, Bill James, 2000

17Trad 18m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Sand Pit Wall Exit Sport 5m, 2
White Wings Trad 19m
14 Fountain Of Youth Trad 15m
16 Grot Heap Groove Trad 19m
Teno Not Streno Trad 15m
17 Deb-ut De-view Sport 9m, 2
Great Balls of Boogy Woogy Trad 10m
Sand Pit Wall Entrance Sport 8m, 2
Streno Not Teno Trad 18m
18 Sand Pit Wall Two Trad 5m
19 * Grot Heap Grave Trad 20m
Sand Pit Wall One Sport 5m, 2
20 Nordwand Sport Project 15m, 8
Snakepit Trad 6m
21 *** Wallyard Arete Sport 20m, 6
22 * Wallyard Grave Sport 20m
23 ** Cheap Wine Sport 20m, 4
* Fascination Sport 13m, 7
24 *** Fizzgig Sport 15m, 5
25 ** Bog Cog Sport 12m
26 * Pakistan Sport 12m